2.0T Help identify oil leak at top of motor (pics)

[AudiTLC]

So I found this wetness and looks like leaking from the seal just below the injectors (red line) on the passenger side above the heat shield.
It runs the length of the seam all the way back. Other side, (DS), is completely dry.
Timing chain cover is dry (on top at least) and can't see any obvious leaks here.

At first I thought it was just oil dripping from the oil fill and running backwards along this seam but looks more like it's seeping along the seam.

cold morning start, i can smell oil so it may be dripping on the exhaust? (cant see any obvious drips or marks from oil drops)

Is this a simple valve cover reseal? Or is the top cover actually holding in the camshafts?

thanks for any thoughts on this!

[findalex]

not easy valve cover reseal. do a search, it's a pain to do it right.

[Theiceman]

id blast that clean and put die in the oil . make absolutely sure that is it. That cover is holding the cams in pace.

[AudiTLC]

id blast that clean and put die in the oil . make absolutely sure that is it. That cover is holding the cams in pace.

great idea, thank you

[mc_hotmail]

The B8 engine cage that holds down the camshaft is also the valve cover. Unlike the one-piece gasket for B7, the B8 valve cover mates to the head metal to metal with only a small channel for this type of gasket sealant:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-5181.../dp/B000A7DG3G

I used this same sealant for the B7 cam cage and the B8 valve cover. It takes a lot of time to clean up the small channel without scratching the aluminum surfaces, but it should not leak if you do it right -- basically made two pieces of metal as one.

[AudiTLC]

so far no leaks showing with UV dye, keeping an eye on it. May take some time to work through the leak.

This photo is my PCV pipe at the intake manifold. Is it normal to have this much oil working through it?
This is a new PCV. I even replaced a new PCV thinking it may be bad.

Will update as I find out more. The seal in the OP remains wet so I'm thinking that is leaking... but will see if UV dye penetrates.

thanks all, the UV dye was a great idea. Hopefully it will pinpoint the issue.

[Theiceman]

I wouldnt sweat oil in PCV.. it has a drain back area ..stay focussed on finding your leak

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

[AudiTLC]

So, seemingly some progress tracking down my leak...
Apologize for the stream of conscious writing here, hope you can follow

This heater hose connects to some metal manifold? on the back of the head. It looks possible that this hose is leaking and dripping onto the cat converter, directly below.
This might make sense since i'm noticing the burning oil smell only when the heater is turned on.

So the heater hose from the firewall goes into this at the back of the head- looks like coolant leaks out when I turn on the heater.
Is this a simple hose replacement? It looks like a band clamp (permanent) at the leak point. Looks like I'll have to cut the clamp and destroy the hose to replace it.
Or is that metal assembly needing to be replaced... it looks like a metal plate over the back of it...

I'm also guessing i have oil seeping from the valve cover and/or leaking from the upper timing cover and it's travelling back across the valve cover seam.
No UV exposure yet, though I haven't driven much at all. But keeping an eye on it.
thanks

[StuckAntichris]

In the picture with the circle that is the vacuum check valve. It does have an O-ring on it that I guess could fail and cause an oil leak. RKX sells a vacuum pump reseal kit that I have used on a few different pumps. There are 2 different ones for our engines so make sure to follow their directions on which one you need. It includes a fuel pump o-ring, check valve o-ring, a new seal for the pump "cover plate". I would provide a link but my internet connection is spotty this morning.

If you didnt want to do a vacuum pump rebuild you might be able to call RKX and just get that check valve O-ring. Their customer service is pretty good,

[AudiTLC]

Wow ok, thanks for this. Did a little search and looks like this is a common leak area.
This makes sense, there is oil leak residue along the back of the vacuum pump. I'll look again now that I know what i'm looking at and for.

Looks like I could replace the coolant flange "while i'm in there" type of thing as well.

In the picture with the circle that is the vacuum check valve. It does have an O-ring on it that I guess could fail and cause an oil leak. RKX sells a vacuum pump reseal kit that I have used on a few different pumps. There are 2 different ones for our engines so make sure to follow their directions on which one you need. It includes a fuel pump o-ring, check valve o-ring, a new seal for the pump "cover plate". I would provide a link but my internet connection is spotty this morning.

If you didnt want to do a vacuum pump rebuild you might be able to call RKX and just get that check valve O-ring. Their customer service is pretty good,

[StuckAntichris]

I would definitely replace that coolant flange. I think it was less than 5 dollars at FCP Euro when I did my engine rebuild. Take your time as access is not the best on the back of the motor. There are only 3 bolts that hold the vacuum pump on but youll need to take the coolant line loose, the HPFP off and a hand full of other things. The rebuild is very simple once you can do it on the bench, just remove the cover, replace the big O-ring, HPFP O-ring & check valve O-ring, and reassemble.

Hope this helps solve your issue!

[AudiTLC]

Incredibly helpful thread so far. I was able to identify the leaking vacuum pump (photos looking up at the pump). Looks like from the large o-ring and spotted the oil spot on the cat exhaust as well as the bellhousing (photo looking down at exhaust).

Also identified the front upper timing chain cover is leaking (already ordered parts)

so, looks like OEM does not have a seal kit for the vacuum pump- planning to order these below, hoses look in good shape but should i be replacing them as well?

Also, those one-use hose clamps on the vac pump- easy way to cut without tearing up the hose? just planning on some sharp pliers with a few cuss words for leverage.

RKX Vacuum pump seal kit
https://www.rkxtech.com/collections/...09-a4-q5-a5-a6

coolant flange
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...21132h#fitment

[StuckAntichris]

You shouldnt have to take the clamp off of the vacuum check valve. it has two tabs that you push in and the whole valve comes out. and the hoses should be totally fine.

In terms of the RKX kit, I forgot to mention the crush gasket they include is not as thick as an OEM one. I didnt want to risk any more leaks since this is kinda a PITA with the engine installed. The OE part number is 06H 103 121 J and can be found Here

This gasket is not required but I found the OE gasket to be of higher quality.

[AudiTLC]

Great, thanks! will go the OEM route

*added for future reference:
high pressure fuel pump hpfp removal
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...l#post14780662

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post14772715

vacuum pump removal
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcbgQUdq8DQ

You shouldnt have to take the clamp off of the vacuum check valve. it has two tabs that you push in and the whole valve comes out. and the hoses should be totally fine.

In terms of the RKX kit, I forgot to mention the crush gasket they include is not as thick as an OEM one. I didnt want to risk any more leaks since this is kinda a PITA with the engine installed. The OE part number is 06H 103 121 J and can be found Here

This gasket is not required but I found the OE gasket to be of higher quality.

[AudiTLC]

@iceman
thanks for the UV dye tip. Invaluable. I was indeed able to spot exactly what was happening.
o-ring failure and dripping onto the cat. Front upper timing chain cover leak. Will keep at it to see if I have any other issues.

@Stuckantichris
ordered per your suggestion and will be doing those gaskets when I have more time. thank you!

Also, to pull that check valve, I found using hose pliers perfectly pinched both tabs to easily pull it out to replace the o-ring.

thanks for all the help fellas!
i'm updating just for future reference- so hopefully it helps someone