Fuel SUPER RICH

[1099ezg]

hello, I just got off the highway for a hour and looked at my long term fuel trim and it’s at -40%! What in the world! I have been having issues on and off but no cel for fuel too rich for the past few weeks. What is going on and how can my engine be that rich without a cel. My short term fuel trim is only like -4%

[1099ezg]

My catalyst temp seems high as well, about 1350 on the highway

[bb-tt]

what was the eq?

post a wot 3rd gear log from 2-7k

[4xaudi]

HPFP is leaking fuel into the crankcase

[Spawne32]

HPFP is leaking fuel into the crankcase

[bb-tt]

[old guy]

What are you using to measure the LTFT? I could be wrong but I am pretty sure the maximum adjustment is ± 25%. Which would definitely give you a DTC.

[1099ezg]

It went down to the 20's but when i first start up it sticks a lot closer to 0. Just a OBD reader. Also my check engine light did come back on. It is too rich and also too rich at idle. I also got some wastegate solenoid code and turbo recirculation fault codes. Could the n75 valve be causing too rich? I will say when i accelerate too fast like going on the highway or passing someone, it will surge like a failing transmission. It has been doing this for a few weeks now since it started getting cold, and i have not been able to diagnose it correctly. The stealership wanted $199 just to plug in the codes and take a quick look a it. Im taking it to a third-party euro shop for hopefully a cheaper cost tomorrow.

[old guy]

Suggestion: You can purchase three seats on VCDS for $199. Then you can accurately pull codes and monitor engine parameters in real time. It will pay for itself many times over.

[bb-tt]

Suggestion: You can purchase three seats on VCDS for $199. Then you can accurately pull codes and monitor engine parameters in real time. It will pay for itself many times over.

^^^^^THIS!!!!!!!!^^^^^^^^

You need to log if you want to accurately diagnose what is wrong. Otherwise just load the parts cannon and start blindly firing.

[lettuce]

It has been doing this for a few weeks now since it started getting cold

Is your car getting up to temp? When my water pump started to go, my car ran extremely rich all the time. Just a thought.

[Theiceman]

so i have a question ......

what's the reported problem ???

if you didnt have your head stuck in an analyzer looking at a bunch of numbers you are having trouble interpreting, what is the issue ??

did i miss that ?

[1099ezg]

I took it to the shop since I wasnt able to diagnose it myself, they are looking at it right now. They were wanting to helicoil I believe my spark plug threads, saying soemthing with the ground could be causing misfires. I always torque my plugs to spec so I am not sure why it would be crossthreaded like they had said. I had no misfire codes though but it did feel like a misfire. They said they saw no codes about the turbo wastegate solenoid code like I was getting, hopefully they get back to me and say this is the issue, because they made me pay for it "just to see if this would fix it". Had to pay 150 for diag as well. They also said my valves were extremely dirty with carbon.

Not sure what is going on with my cat temps too, but possibly if fuel is leaking into it maybe that could be causing high temps? We will see

Do the GDI fuel sprays into the intake do a good job removing that? Or is it a better use of my money to just go ahead and get it properly cleaned.

I was looking at VCDS and also OBD eleven but am not sure which one is better. I know with OBD eleven pro for $100 you can do cool stuff, such as not having the DRL turn off when your turn signal is on.

[1099ezg]

I had forgotten to say this in the thread. When accelerating somewhat hard I have been getting surging issues, where it will jerk like a failing tranny. A CEL for too rich usually shows up 30 minutes after the event. If I accelerate slow not going over 2500 rpms I usually have no issue. I Have the CVT transmission so It does not usually rev high while changing gears. I had some turbo wastegate solenoid code on my crappy OBD reader but was not sure if that would be causing it. Codes for too rich on idle and also too rich while driving bank 1. Also a pending code for air intake leak. However, I have not been able to diagnose any leaks and boost seemed solid, never going over 6psi during acceleration. This all started when it started getting cold and I was changing my spark plugs and noticed oil in the tubes. I did a valve cover gasket replacement and replaced the HPFP seals and timing cover seals. This fixed my oil leaks, but my plugs became carbon filled after a few days. I was having revving issues when it got cold so that is what brought me to change the plugs. The surging issue did happen before changing the valve cover but not the plugs, just bad idling rpms. Spark plug change is when I had noticed it, but I figured it might have been due to cold or left-over oil in the tubes that had fell in since I torqued them to spec I am not sure how they could be cross threaded. I thought it could have been gapping issues so I switched the plugs about 3 times, but they fouled immediately. I got this car in the summer so I thought it could have been something when the temps get cold outside, but not sure. Hopefully this can solve this, but very odd I never got misfiring codes.

This could be unrelated but my vehicle has also been ticking loud under the hood in the camshaft area, but I figured it was normal from injectors but not sure.

[MyDimeIsUp]

I would avoid OBDeleven at all costs now. It used to be my go-to recommendation but they have failed to add data graphing capabilities for years even though they said they would add it, and they are now charging a yearly subscription ontop of what you paid for the Bluetooth OBD dongle. Get VCDS.

It seems the shop doesn't even know what's going on. They say that they believe it's the spark plug threads and want to Helicoil it, but then saying that an extra-rich fuel mixture is ruining the cats. Ignore the cats, what is causing the rich fuel mixture in the first place? If your spark plugs get somewhat tight and the torque wrench clicks, I don't see how there could be bad threads. You said yourself you got a code for an air intake leak. I had a high air-fuel mixture code, air intake leak code, and RPM too high at idle code. I had the car smoke tested and they found it was a cracked dipstick tube (I bought a dipstick and didn't snap the top loop off. Everytime I closed the hood the dipstick would smash into the dipstick tube, cracking it). Air intake leak = smoke test starting at the intake tubing after the engine air filter box.

I haven't a clue. All I can say rn is to get VCDS and not OBDeleven and to have the car smoke tested.

[RPMtech147]

I would avoid OBDeleven at all costs now. It used to be my go-to recommendation but they have failed to add data graphing capabilities for years even though they said they would add it, and they are now charging a yearly subscription ontop of what you paid for the Bluetooth OBD dongle. Get VCDS.

It seems the shop doesn't even know what's going on. They say that they believe it's the spark plug threads and want to Helicoil it, but then saying that an extra-rich fuel mixture is ruining the cats. Ignore the cats, what is causing the rich fuel mixture in the first place? If your spark plugs get somewhat tight and the torque wrench clicks, I don't see how there could be bad threads. You said yourself you got a code for an air intake leak. I had a high air-fuel mixture code, air intake leak code, and RPM too high at idle code. I had the car smoke tested and they found it was a cracked dipstick tube (I bought a dipstick and didn't snap the top loop off. Everytime I closed the hood the dipstick would smash into the dipstick tube, cracking it). Air intake leak = smoke test starting at the intake tubing after the engine air filter box.

I haven't a clue. All I can say rn is to get VCDS and not OBDeleven and to have the car smoke tested.

If you didn't take it to a place that doesn't specialize in Audi, or at least specializes in European cars in general (Most Euro shops are pretty decent with VAG), then you need to pull it out of there if they can't get somewhere within a day.

[MyDimeIsUp]

If you didn't take it to a place that doesn't specialize in Audi, or at least specializes in European cars in general (Most Euro shops are pretty decent with VAG), then you need to pull it out of there if they can't get somewhere within a day.

Yup. First shop I took it to was a local mom-and-pop domestic/Asian car shop. They did a smoke test and couldn't find the leak; they didn't charge me. The second shop was a Euro shop that had an inflatable balloon they could stuff into the air intake tubing after the intake box. They found the leak within 30 mins and let me know it was my dipstick tube.

[1099ezg]

I took it to a local euro specific shop that has an Audi and bmw mechanic, it had good reviews and my car is still there so we will see. But yes it does seem like they are unsure especially since they’ve been “looking into it” for two days

[1099ezg]

Wow… well I am very disappointed. So cleaning the tubes and threads did fix the too rich issue. I drove it home from the shop and guess what I am getting now, that I have never had before. Hopefully the shop will fix this for me.

I’m now getting P008700: Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low Audi: Solenoid valve Servotronic-N119; Solenoid valve for Servotronic-N119
Click to search for description on the Internet...
P2293
Archive inactive
Control unit: Engine control unit
Status: Permanent
OBDII: Fuel pressure regulator 2 - performance problem
Click to search for description on the Internet ...
P2293
Control unit: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDIl: Fuel pressure regulator 2 - performance problem
Click to search for description on the Internet ...
P2293
Control unit:Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Fuel pressure regulator 2 - performance problem
Click to search for description on the Internet ...

Pretty upset. Do I need to worry about driving my car until I can find another few days to leave my car there

[1099ezg]

Nevermind, figured out the problem. SUPER PO.

The HPFP screw was loose, and the one on the other side was non existent! No screw! My HPFP was just loosely sitting into my vacuum pump! I am so mad and am going to be telling them they need to give me an oil change for free and py for a tow there since I feel that I should not be driving it. Is there any thing else I should be worried about since they did this and demand to be fixed? Any long term issues that could arise from driving 40 miles with a loose HPFP

[Spawne32]

Nevermind, figured out the problem. SUPER PO.

The HPFP screw was loose, and the one on the other side was non existent! No screw! My HPFP was just loosely sitting into my vacuum pump! I am so mad and am going to be telling them they need to give me an oil change for free and py for a tow there since I feel that I should not be driving it. Is there any thing else I should be worried about since they did this and demand to be fixed? Any long term issues that could arise from driving 40 miles with a loose HPFP

Potential damage to the roller that rides against the cam.