B7 RS4 Clutch Install Help.

[Silverex]

I picked up a B7 RS4 clutch kit and had a clutch master billet flywheel sent to CM in hopes they could resurface and mod it for a B7 PP. Unfortunately they didn’t feel comfortable with taking that much material off so I had them resurface it for a B5.

Before I sell the CM FW and buy a TTV FW setup for a B7 PP I’d like to try and use what I have.

From my research modding the flywheel only requires addressing the Dowel pins and stack height difference. I saw some guys had to grind their clutch disc to clear the FW but that seems like a none issue with the CM FW.

So only 2 things to address, the dowel pins seem easy since I could slowly drill out the PP holes until they were just large enough to fit.
For the 2mm stack height I’ve read multiple people say they use a precision washer to space the PP out the 2mm without issue and make sure SAC movement is correct but that seem kinda sketchy to me.
Has anyone used a washer long term that can confirm its fine to do?
Anything else im missing to make this work?
Thanks PJ

[CELison]

I did the washer thing. Worked fine. Only ran that clutch for a couple months then threw it in the trash, but the engagement was fine using washers. B5 TTV fw and b7 rs4 pp.

[Silverex]

Why did you throw it in trash?

[CELison]

It was a 6 puck so it was kinda sucky to drive and started to slip when we turned it up.

[Silverex]

Gotcha. I plan on running the stock disc and fingers crossed it will work for DD duty in my stg3 pump gas deal.

[slow ride]

I did the drilled out, clearance and 2mm washers and it worked well with a organic/feramic disk I built. I ran 2.9-3.1 FATS stock block, but not tons of launches etc. I did use red loctite on the pressure plate bolts just in case lol.

Lots of aftermarket twin disk clutches use washers to set stack height for floater plates and pressure plates. It will be fine if installed and torqued properly.

[Silverex]

I did the drilled out, clearance and 2mm washers and it worked well with a organic/feramic disk I built. I ran 2.9-3.1 FATS stock block, but not tons of launches etc. I did use red loctite on the pressure plate bolts just in case lol.

Lots of aftermarket twin disk clutches use washers to set stack height for floater plates and pressure plates. It will be fine if installed and torqued properly.

Thank!!
You and celison really put my worries to rest. I usually use blue lock tight on those bolts but red probably isn’t a bad idea. Lol

I’ll have the washers tomorrow so I’ll mock it up in the press to check SAC adjustment and hopefully get everything in this weekend.

[Silverex]

Drilled out the holes in pressure plate last night and it fits snuggly on the dowels.

Only problem is I can only install 3 pressure plate bolts (instead of 6) no matter how I oriented the PP. Did you guys only run 3 bolts or am I missing something?

Some pics of what I’m working with. I highlighted where the 3 bolts fit.





EDIT: Nevermind I’m an idiot and drilled wrong holes. Drilled the correct ones and everything lines up now.

[slow ride]

ooofff yeah not great. Did you fill the holes back in lol? I installed mine on a stock flywheel so I had to drill the flywheel to fit some of the pressure plate rivets that sit lower than a b5 plate.

[CELison]

All weight savings counts.

[Silverex]

ooofff yeah not great. Did you fill the holes back in lol? I installed mine on a stock flywheel so I had to drill the flywheel to fit some of the pressure plate rivets that sit lower than a b5 plate.

Na just used a washer and they are fine. Honestly could have probably gotten away with just the bolts but why chance it.
Luckily no issues with FW I used.

All weight savings counts.

Good point might as well drill the other ones out for all that extra weight.

Joking aside one question I have is after resetting the SAC I went to test it and I got 2-3 clicks and then SAC stays in that location. I’m assuming that is correct and it’s not suppose to spring back to where I set it?

[CELison]

I would just bring it back to all the way compressed, then once you push the clutch in the first time it will self adjust.

[Silverex]

Yea that was the plan. Just doing it in the press to make sure the washers were correct thickness. But it’s normal for it to stay adjusted and not spring back correct?

[Silverex]

Just to update this the clutch is in and working great.

Ending up using 1 washer 1.9mm thick to space the PP, which got me 2 clicks of SAC adjustment. First impression is the pedal is a lot lighter than my previous RR4+ setup with the engagement point being alil lower. Going take alil getting used to but so far I’m really liking it!!

I’ll updated again after I get some miles to see how well it holds up to a stg3 setup.

[slow ride]

Why did you switch from the RR4+ ? I was thinking I might have to go with a stronger pressure plate to make full power on my setup. Since I use a b7rs4 pressure plate with a organic/feramic hybrid disk I will need all the plate I can get.

[Silverex]

Why did you switch from the RR4+ ? I was thinking I might have to go with a stronger pressure plate to make full power on my setup. Since I use a b7rs4 pressure plate with a organic/feramic hybrid disk I will need all the plate I can get.

RR4+ was slipping and funds were tight ATM to get another. The RR dealt with a RMS leak which made it slip, I torn it down to clean everything and it stopped slipping. Then later I had a coolant sensor pop out which contaminated it again. Was over yanking the engine soo put a new clutch in. The RR still has a lot of meat and could probably be cleaned up and used again but wasn’t chancing it.

Overall I really like the RR4+, it can slip on cold until warmed up but I would have bought another

[slow ride]

I see, I think you could make full power on the b7 rs4 plate and stock organic disk on pump gas (basic stage 3 stuff) no problem, but I'm not 100% sure on e85, possibly driving like an old guy like me lol.