Cam Chain Tensioner Follow Up: Need Advice

[UpTight]

I made a post a few months ago about a noise coming from the rear timing chain cover. Turns out it was slack in the chain slapping the bottom guide of the tensioner. Had a local shop put in a new chain and tensioner. An important thing to note here though, is that I also had a cam follower failure. The damage to the intake cam and hpfp was unknown to me until I physically went to see it. Visually, I think it could definitely look worse. There's scratches for sure, and I can just barely catch my nail on the scratches. The HPFP piston also doesn't look too bad I don't think, but I don't think its necessarily flat. Seems like there's a bit of a slant. Photos of the intake cam and fuel pump are listed below.

The issue here however, is that only a couple hundred miles into the new cam follower from the initial repair (before the tensioner change), it already shows some signs of wear. It's not terrible, but the black coating wore off in two small patches. one on either side of the middle of the follower. I am not sure whether or not the intake cam is the main culprit here, or maybe the fuel pump. Also definitely open to the possibility that the small amount of wear is normal. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of the follower for some reason, so hopefully my description was good enough. Now because it didn't look like it was wearing evenly in a circle, I'm curious if the follower just simply isn't spinning. My current plan is to check the newest follower put in 3k miles from now and see where I'm at. Any input or suggestions would be appreciated. You all have a been a great help already.

PXL_20221110_221032567.MP (1).jpgPXL_20221110_221054502.jpg

[Theiceman]

You absolutely need a new pump. Start there. Uneven pressure on follower won't allow it to spin. Also take a pic of the end of the cam. Or what year is the car. Old came were bad new ones are better

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

[UpTight]

Cars all back together now. But it's an 06 so probably does not have the revision B cam

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Theiceman]

yeah i had your failure with an 06 but had been updated to rev b by audi. I polished it with some very fine emory cloth till it was smooth . fired a new pump and follower in , then did my study ... car has been fine.

[Jayz691]

Yeah, that pump plunger is toast. If the solenoid and all is giod, I have a few spare pumps. Could send ya the plunger/spring/collar section. Or buy a new pump. With pump fixed, it may be a little better. New cam is prob in order, but I'd try with the pump first. The end is supposed to have a taper on it, to allow it to spin. Yours is ground flat.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

[UpTight]

Yeah, that pump plunger is toast. If the solenoid and all is giod, I have a few spare pumps. Could send ya the plunger/spring/collar section. Or buy a new pump. With pump fixed, it may be a little better. New cam is prob in order, but I'd try with the pump first. The end is supposed to have a taper on it, to allow it to spin. Yours is ground flat.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

Good information, I wasn't entirely sure how the follower was supposed to spin. I might take you up on that offer with the spring and plunger etc., though I have no idea how to replace it. Will let you know if I decide.

Unfortunately though, I had a Camshaft position code pop up today around 30 miles into the new chain and tensioner. The guy cleared the codes and said to call if it comes back, as it might just be residual from the repair. Gonna hope all is well. Seems to be running fine aside from that.

[Jayz691]

Good chance it picked up some of the metal swarf from the follower failure. As far as the hpfp, just need a 18mm(iirc) deep socket, it all comes out together. Socket fits over the spring/plungerer, and removes it at the collar. Could also pull it apart and clean it for ya beforehand, just buy me a six pack, lol. Lmk if ya want it.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

[UpTight]

Thanks Jayz, will let you know, and will continue to update the thread with what I find out.

And thanks Iceman for that picture, that's a really good basis to go off of.

[UpTight]

The check engine light came back on after around 75 miles. Code is as follows:

P000A 'A' Camshaft Position Slow Response (Bank 1) - Implausible signal

Mechanic thinks it could be the sensors being confused by the length of the new chain, as the new one is shorter than the old stretched chain. Either that, or he thinks it could be oil pressure. Though I haven't had any oil pressure lights pop up

He did tell me that he had to go back in and replace the three plastic rings in the housing before the job had finished, as those had broke.

Any input?

[Theiceman]

It's going to be phaser, n205 or oil pressure... cars dont get confused.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

[UpTight]

It's going to be phaser, n205 or oil pressure... cars dont get confused.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

Hope its not the adjuster, as it would definitely take a while for him to get back in there. The n205 is new, as it was replaced last repair, but I thought I did see the plastic connector coated with a bit of oil. So I was thinking maybe there's some oil on the sensor or something? Was also some oil on the back of the cam chain housing when I got it back, but I haven't seen it leaking or felt any new oil.

As for oil pressure, Is it possible for there to be a lack of oil pressure even if there's no oil pressure light popping up?

[Theiceman]

There is no sensor .. it's a solenoid.. it fires or it doesn't. It is absolutely possible there is enough oil pressure to keep the light off but not enough to run the phaser ..I would have this checked first .

I made a thread on verifying oil pressure.. if you search you will find it

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

[UpTight]

There is no sensor .. it's a solenoid.. it fires or it doesn't. It is absolutely possible there is enough oil pressure to keep the light off but not enough to run the phaser ..I would have this checked first .

I made a thread on verifying oil pressure.. if you search you will find it

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

I'll take a look at that thread. But all very useful information. Do you think there's any possible way that he screwed up resealing the valve cover with RTV sealant and clogged something up? Though I guess that's something only he'd be able to know for sure. But I'd imagine that even that would throw an oil pressure light

Edit: Actually called and apparently its not RTV, just some special sealant that went in-between the cam box that doesn't harden. Never heard of it before. Said it should just wash away and not clog anything if it entered an oil passage.

[Jayz691]

I would def install an oil pressure gauge, of at very least manually check it. Installed gauge is just much better, cuz you can see how its acting at different rpm and temps. Is the new n205 an OEM/genuine part? If ya have vcds ya can prob do an output test on it.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

[UpTight]

I would def install an oil pressure gauge, of at very least manually check it. Installed gauge is just much better, cuz you can see how its acting at different rpm and temps. Is the new n205 an OEM/genuine part? If ya have vcds ya can prob do an output test on it.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

Probably genuine, I'd have to check the receipt from the other shop who did it, but generally speaking I've only had genuine parts put on by those guys. Or at least parts priced as if they're genuine lol.

I'd be surprised if it's actually broken, as it would be an extreme coincidence, but maybe I'll just check that plastic connector for oil and see if that's the issue before the light comes back on. But good call on vcds. I don't have it, but I would only assume the mechanic will check once the light comes back on.


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Theiceman]

Your mechanic..used anaerobic sealant, although I'm not sure why in this engine it's not needed if you use proper gaskets .

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

[UpTight]

Your mechanic..used anaerobic sealant, although I'm not sure why in this engine it's not needed if you use proper gaskets .

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

I couldn't tell you either. Guess he just really didn't wanna have to go back in there lol

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Theiceman]

I couldn't tell you either. Guess he just really didn't wanna have to go back in there lol

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Audizine Forum mobile app

fair enough , some mechanics put a light coat on the timing cover gasket, but i have never had to.

[UpTight]

I went and pulled the electrical connector to the n205 and found the following. Seems like there's some oil in there. Do we think this could be it?
PXL_20221122_145200219.jpgAttachment 288869Attachment 288870PXL_20221122_145700185.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Theiceman]

who is we ?

[UpTight]

who is we ?

Mistyped, was at work typing fast.

Question still stands though, does anyone think this could be the issue?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Theiceman]

im not so sure ... but if you can get a cheap one from a wreckers..

personally i don't think the code is worth spending money on .

[Jayz691]

Def could be. Strange for,the inner seal to go already, if a new genuine solenoid was installed recently. Clean it out, check back later..

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

[UpTight]

Def could be. Strange for,the inner seal to go already, if a new genuine solenoid was installed recently. Clean it out, check back later..

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

Well after a little over a hundred miles, it came back. Took a look and there's still oil in the connector, but I didn't really clean it out all that well last time. Can't tell if there's anymore than there was last time. Either way I told my mechanic what I found, and he's gonna take the car back in next week and see what he can figure out. Although he doesn't seem to have high hopes lmao
Attachment 289923PXL_20221207_144137958.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Jayz691]

Spray it out with contact cleaner, then check back later. Also, you mentioned him using anaerobic sealant. Did he remove your cam cradle to do the cam chain/tensioner? Thats needed if they strip the polydrive bolt, and common place for that type of sealant. If he used any etc on the cam chain housing, possible the little screen, thats in the oil port that feeds the VVT solenoid, got clogged up. That would cause the VVT not to operate properly.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

[UpTight]

Spray it out with contact cleaner, then check back later. Also, you mentioned him using anaerobic sealant. Did he remove your cam cradle to do the cam chain/tensioner? Thats needed if they strip the polydrive bolt, and common place for that type of sealant. If he used any etc on the cam chain housing, possible the little screen, thats in the oil port that feeds the VVT solenoid, got clogged up. That would cause the VVT not to operate properly.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

Will see about the cleaner. He did remove the cradle, hence the sealant. Funny enough, it looks like he used it on the hpfp as well but not rear housing. He also said that the sealant should just get washed away if it enters any ports, but I can't really verify that. But one of his concerns is maybe there's a lack of oil pressure in the area, which would make sense if the port is clogged.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Jayz691]

Will see about the cleaner. He did remove the cradle, hence the sealant. Funny enough, it looks like he used it on the hpfp as well but not rear housing. He also said that the sealant should just get washed away if it enters any ports, but I can't really verify that. But one of his concerns is maybe there's a lack of oil pressure in the area, which would make sense if the port is clogged.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Audizine Forum mobile app

Yes, anerobic sealant dries in the absence of air. So will dry on the flange, the rest will wash away. Its pretty thin when applied, not like a silicone. No reason to use any sealant on the back though. Cover, hpfp, etc have seals/gaskets, don't need sealant.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app