Project Saguro Part II: The Cactus Avant is dead?

[cactus_cars]

So, November 1st 2022.

I woke up as normal, got dressed, had a quick bite to eat and then went about my day as normal. Started up the car, idled a bit funky (as per usual with a full cold start).

Checked the oil, it was fine, above all the hash marks, full, albeit a bit brown @ 6k miles, Mobile 1 Full Syn 0W-40?. (I believe).

Let it warm up for 6 minutes or so, oil and coolant temp were off the bottom, fan ramped up. Started off slowly, being nice to 1st and 2nd synchros when cold.

It was fine really, there is a surging problem which I am pretty sure is a dirty MAF, (definitely) due to the original 23 year old turbo with 200+k miles on it. (Oil gets in the intake sometimes)

I went and grabbed a pie before heading back home, was very clangy at idle when I left. Decided (stupidly) to just drive home and take it easy.

Then when I got home and shut the car off, the knocking noise was VERY obvious. It's not quite? rod knock, but sounds about 80% of that.


My hope is that the turbo literally exploded, but it's more likely the AEB has taken it's last journey. ( Checked front-side/intake just now, it's fine. some play but less than any junkyard turbo I've felt.)

Or something is really wrong with the tranny / flywheel but I doubt it.

Anyway I hope all of you are having a better week than me.

Oh, and is anyone selling a possibly built AEB motor by chance? or a good belt driven 4.2....maybe.

Fuuuck.

[cactus_cars]

Update: I think the engine is toast. Still investigating other possible problems to cause rod-knock like issues.

Thinking I may be able to save it with new rod bearings, but who knows. My mechanic buddy says it might be fixable with bearings. I checked the turbo and it has minimal play in/out up and down, despite the original nature of it and oil seeping. I'm honestly devastated. Probably have a few grand too much into this 'ol wagon. It's broken down on me a few times, taken me to some cool places, but mostly inconvenienced me.


The worst part is that I just finished doing tie rods with the upgraded S4 Lemforder assembly (highly recommended for road feel) and the steering feels brillant again, and the car is back to it's darty, GTi wagon-like nature. It's been a few years of ownership now. I'm just not sure what to say. I should also say that when I pulled the lower pan 10k ago it was spotless, and the oil pickup was quite clean. But who knows really how the POs treated it.

I know for sure the first owner pampered it, garaged year round in new england, also had a dog that sat behind him, the scratches near the rear door handle are clearly from some sort of dog leash. Also a few hairs here and there.

Best case: it's something stupid like an exploded tensioner or some weird shit.

Worst case: parted out or scrapped.

Thanks everybody, and I hope your B5 story is better than mine!

I'll post some pictures in the morning.

[Akabetterthanu]

Have you drained the oil to see if it was catastrophic


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[cactus_cars]

Have you drained the oil to see if it was catastrophic


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Nope, but I'm going to see if I can push it into the garage, cut open the filter and check it out. Not looking good but I best check it out anyway.

The annoying part is that the engine was very clean inside the head and the bottom end from the previous inspections I had done.


Hopefully will get to it tonight after work but who knows. Also have to finish R&R my 540i's rear suspension/ carrier and get that back on the road as well.

[cactus_cars]

So, I haven't disappeared off the face of the earth, just been busy at the grind. Finally got a chance to push the car (uphill) and into my garage to check it out. Clutch, flywheel and the turbo all seem fine.

Then I saw the Ark of the Covenant itself...Ok to be honest it was just my engine mount jangling around by 1 measly bolt. This gave me hope that the engine might not be toast!

So I go through and put all the intake piping back off and complete the oil change. 6000 miles on Mobil 1 0W-40 Full Syn, always kept topped up. (oil was only burned by the turbo, around half a quart every 4k miles. (Very good for such an old engine).

My E39 is back together, just trying to find a local alignment shop that doesn't absolutely suck. Apparently the second thing those quickie-lube techs learn is alignments. I can see why they never are good. Oh well.

Looking into my options for rebuilding the bottom end including rods. Not sure if it's worth building the motor, but if I do that I will surely replace the Turbo, T oil line(s), oil pan gasket, coolant flange, oil pump, oil pump drive & sump.
Just so irritating that the car had finally been running 100% for the first time in years, properly timed and getting 25mpg @72mph, more than it had ever gotten before. And I've put many thousands of $$ worth of FCP Euro and Junkyard parts only to have a useless wagon brick in my driveway.

I also inspected and dissected the oil filter, only to find it clean, ran a very strong HDD magnet over the whole thing, no visible metal particles either.
The oil was a tad 'burnt' but didn't have any nasty sludge or other visible particles, just brown.

Sidenote, those Mahle and Mann XL filters are built incredibly well. Very hard to cut open! *I don't have a pic of the paper material cut out, but it was very clean.*

PXL_20221115_022656974.MP.jpgPXL_20221115_044950640.jpgPXL_20221115_045047914.jpg

[Blazius]

On an 1.8T you must run a Mann 950/4 best filter you can get for it and it increases your oil capacity by 1L. Its an essential mod.

[cactus_cars]

On an 1.8T you must run a Mann 950/4 best filter you can get for it and it increases your oil capacity by 1L. Its an essential mod.

It's the increased capacity filter, the P/N is literally in the picture.


Bought from FCP Euro and verified it was the larger filter capacity. The filter was not the problem, FYI.

I have never run the smaller filters on any of my friends 1.8Ts or mine.

[Blazius]

I am not retarded or blind. I know about the Mann 940/25(or all TSB filters really) I am saying use Mann 950/4 as its exactly the same filter but even bigger size , the biggest one you can get with the same OEM pressure valve and filter spec. You can read about it more if you want in old threads, or just listen :)

[cactus_cars]

I am not retarded or blind. I know about the Mann 940/25(or all TSB filters really) I am saying use Mann 950/4 as its exactly the same filter but even bigger size , the biggest one you can get with the same OEM pressure valve and filter spec. You can read about it more if you want in old threads, or just listen :)

LOL Sorry. I guess I couldn't find that filter at the time so I went with the 940. Not as easy to get B5 parts in the states.

[Blazius]

LOL Sorry. I guess I couldn't find that filter at the time so I went with the 940. Not as easy to get B5 parts in the states.

Well if you can i highly suggest sourcing a 950/4 in the future of your 1.8T's you will be amazed :p
https://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-9.../dp/B000CB3ZI6
here is the official MANN store on amazon(lol)

[cactus_cars]

Anyone have thoughts on a rebuild or just swap in a used motor?


I was thinking sink $1k to $2k into it, build it up with some upgraded rods, bearings, etc?

AEB motors are certainly pricey on FaceBalls MP... and they sell quick.

My mechanic buddy advised that it's more than likely rod bearings. I agree with his assessment given the history of the car.

[Blazius]

I would say rebuild if you can verify the health of the motor.

Dial gauge and bore gauge, check crank too or send it to shop. If within specs then do it.

I've recently done my build fully , literally everything and H beams , oil pump everything - upgrades too and I am pretty sure I am below the 2k$ mark, obviously being in Europe with boatload of parts. If not I can ship stuff such as TRW exhaust valves(best(material) solid valves ONLY if yours are shot etc.)
Also if you go down that route, make sure you get the proper sputter rod bearings as AEB came with them from factory, they take the loads better than standard ones.

[cactus_cars]

I would say rebuild if you can verify the health of the motor.

Dial gauge and bore gauge, check crank too or send it to shop. If within specs then do it.

I've recently done my build fully , literally everything and H beams , oil pump everything - upgrades too and I am pretty sure I am below the 2k$ mark, obviously being in Europe with boatload of parts. If not I can ship stuff such as TRW exhaust valves(best(material) solid valves ONLY if yours are shot etc.)
Also if you go down that route, make sure you get the proper sputter rod bearings as AEB came with them from factory, they take the loads better than standard ones.

Any ideas of what ones I should get. I see they vary from $40 for stockies https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...o-034105701007 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-...et-034198501br to over $200 for some fancy sets like from IE and 034 (which are likely rebranded) I gotta find a way to narrow down my options.

Finding a good shop to check out the crank is going to be quite difficult.

[Blazius]

Kolben if you can, they are OEM. I am not sure if race bearings are worth the price. But like I said watch out with rod bearings as they sell both versions but turbo engines and AEB runs the sputter ones, and they are more expensive.

For crank I mean you can micrometer it and visual inspection and if its good send it, they are the most stout part of the 1.8T if I had to choose one.

[cactus_cars]

Kolben if you can, they are OEM. I am not sure if race bearings are worth the price. But like I said watch out with rod bearings as they sell both versions but turbo engines and AEB runs the sputter ones, and they are more expensive.

For crank I mean you can micrometer it and visual inspection and if its good send it, they are the most stout part of the 1.8T if I had to choose one.

Thanks, that's exactly the advice I need. What defines a 'sputter' bearing?. Yeah I will have to see about getting a micrometer.

[cactus_cars]

Alright everybody, who wants to guess what is actually wrong? Just like before with everyone throwing out wild guesses before. I finally figured it out and have ordered the necessary parts.

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[cactus_cars]

It's killing me that it took so long, but hey, life gets in the way.

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[WinterRunner]

More info on this? So you basically fill with 5.3L when using the bigger filter and it ups capacity and helps with oil temps?

[WinterRunner]

Glad you sorted it

[WinterRunner]

I am not retarded or blind. I know about the Mann 940/25(or all TSB filters really) I am saying use Mann 950/4 as its exactly the same filter but even bigger size , the biggest one you can get with the same OEM pressure valve and filter spec. You can read about it more if you want in old threads, or just listen :)

Meant to quote

[cactus_cars]

Meant to quote

So, it turns out that the power steering pump was knocking. Sounded just like a bottom end knock. Pulled the VC and everything looked perfect in the head.

Can't believe this was the problem all along

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[cactus_cars]

So, it turns out that the power steering pump was knocking. Sounded just like a bottom end knock. Pulled the VC and everything looked perfect in the head.

Can't believe this was the problem all along

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Oh, and WinterRunner, that other Mann filter is a great idea, although I've heard it's a tight squeeze on a B6. It's a Volvo 740/960 filter as far as I know.

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[hawaiian punch]

So, it turns out that the power steering pump was knocking. Sounded just like a bottom end knock. Pulled the VC and everything looked perfect in the head.

Can't believe this was the problem all along

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That’s a relief! Should still build the 1.8t though


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[cactus_cars]

That’s a relief! Should still build the 1.8t though


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Still the plan for sometime in the future. A light tune first.

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[walky_talky20]

Had this same problem on an old '86 Toyota Celica. Thought for sure the motor was done for. It clanked *hard*, but still got me home (like a trusty 80's Toyota should!). Turned out it was the the AC Compressor bolts that came loose and the compressor was clanking against the engine block. Phew!

[cactus_cars]

Had this same problem on an old '86 Toyota Celica. Thought for sure the motor was done for. It clanked *hard*, but still got me home (like a trusty 80's Toyota should!). Turned out it was the the AC Compressor bolts that came loose and the compressor was clanking against the engine block. Phew!

Funny you should mention that. My snub mount bracket had rattled itself off, so it was hanging on the poly insert. Only caused more confusion, lol.

Initially that had me confused. But once I bolted it back in it was obvious something else was contributing to the noise. Given the design of these engines, they are inherently noisy. Unlike my BMW 540i6 (V8) which is dead quiet except when vanos engages.

I'm honestly still baffled. Parts should be here by Friday, very happy to send my garbage core back, lol!

I did order all new hoses and reservoir, plus pump, so all in for $455 not bad at all.

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[Blazius]

Meant to quote

Basically yeah, its 1L worth of oil basically, so total around 4.5L. The base capacity on a longitudinal block is around 3.5L due to the pan design, quite low.

[WinterRunner]

Basically yeah, its 1L worth of oil basically, so total around 4.5L. The base capacity on a longitudinal block is around 3.5L due to the pan design, quite low.

That's weird, I use 4.3L in my changes.

[cactus_cars]

Update: Jacked up the car, unbolted the core support (hanging on re-used bumper bolts). Both jack-stands are on the 'dimples' on either side of the car. Behind the subframe. About 14" in height or so.

The clanging noise is gone. The power steering pump and line replacement got rid of the metallic knocking sound but the deep clank sound seems to be a bad engine mount, despite these being Corteco's with around 6k miles on them. They seemed decent despite being Made in China, unfortunately. I think the old OE mounts were higher quality.

If i put the car down on the ground and bolt it in the noise will very likely return. Engine sounds like your normal High Mileage 1.8T (Remember the solid lifters?) I forgot that.

Anyway if anyone would like to see a video of the sounds let me know and I'll try to get one posted up.

Don't get me wrong there are still a ton of other issues like the rear suspension, driveshaft CSB / D Shaft CV Joints and the rear carrier bushings. My custom diff mount is awesome though!

[cactus_cars]

Need recommendations for engine mounts that don't suck. So not Cortecos. I'm thinking the 034 ones will have way too much NVH and the RS4 ones ECS tuning seem potentially fake to me. They don't seem to be actual RS4 style mounts.

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