Diagnostic help after turbo inlet install

[Das Gas Doc]

First and foremost, can anyone tell me what fault codes 10591, 10203, and 10205 would be? I can't for the life of me find an answer through Google. I scanned using Carista.

Here's the full story-
I have a 2019 RS3 around 7300 miles. I got the car at 6k miles, and it has been rock solid with a clean PPI. I installed 034 Stage 1 93 octane ECU and TCU tunes around 6.6k miles. I recently took the car to a reputable shop to have some parts installed (unitronic intercooler, 034 4" turbo inlet and 4" intake, and 034 mid pipes). My drive home was 2 hours, and I noticed multiple episodes of engine stuttering under throttle, which I thought might be the ECU adjusting to the increased airflow. No codes were thrown when I scanned. The shop thought it was the dogbone mount.

The next time I drove the car, power quickly fizzled and the CEL came on during an 80% throttle pull. I restarted the car and the light persisted, along with a super rough idle, shaky drive, and altered engine/exhaust noise. I drove slowly 2 miles home, and a pretty large cloud of white smoke puffed out of my exhaust as I pulled into the driveway. The coolant level has remained normal. I haven't seen any more white smoke the few times I've started the car to check codes. Now I have a persistent P0301 fault (cyl 1 misfire), as well as the codes listed at the beginning. 10591 looks like it could be related to an injector short, but that was some extrapolation based on other codes. There's also a puddle of oil leaking near the front passenger wheel.

They sent a tech out yesterday, but only told him about the oil leak. He instantly noticed the wiring harness wasn't fully connected to the cylinder 1 coil pack, and assumed that would fix the misfire when he reconnected it. He said it looked like the front main seal was the source of the oil leak. The cylinder 1 spark plug was fouled, which he thought was unburned fuel rather than oil. We swapped coil packs and the coil pack seemed to be fine. I have new plugs coming in a day or two.

Also, one turbo inlet install video I watched made a point of being careful removing the ground wires for cylinder 1 (fuel injector and coil park ground wires) because they are easy to damage, which is why I opted not to do the install myself. The tech had no idea what I was talking about, so I assume he didn't exercise extra caution here.

1) Does it seem likely I could have blown a head gasket or cracked a cylinder head? Google tells me white smoke almost always means one of those things lol. My oil looks normal and coolant levels seem stable. I'm not confident a new spark plug is going to remedy this.

2) Could this all have been caused by either loose wiring to the coil pack or shorts in the cylinder 1 fuel injector and coil pack ground wires? Both of those would have been directly caused by the technician rather than a perfect storm of a failing (like-new) spark plug. If this is worst-case scenario, I could imagine a failing coil pack/fuel injector causing heavy misfires under load which could have blown a head gasket and caused the oil leak?

Best case, the spark plug fixes the issue but the oil leak might be $1k to fix. I'm just trying to determine if this was all caused by the shop, or if I'm just one of the unlucky few whose RS3 couldn't handle stage 1+.

Thanks for the read and any advice!

TL;DR
Car had major issues after a shop installed a 4" turbo inlet. Fault codes might help me determine if the shop made a mistake.

[TToysRuS]

First and foremost, can anyone tell me what fault codes 10591, 10203, and 10205 would be? I can't for the life of me find an answer through Google. I scanned using Carista.

Here's the full story-
I have a 2019 RS3 around 7300 miles. I got the car at 6k miles, and it has been rock solid with a clean PPI. I installed 034 Stage 1 93 octane ECU and TCU tunes around 6.6k miles. I recently took the car to a reputable shop to have some parts installed (unitronic intercooler, 034 4" turbo inlet and 4" intake, and 034 mid pipes). My drive home was 2 hours, and I noticed multiple episodes of engine stuttering under throttle, which I thought might be the ECU adjusting to the increased airflow. No codes were thrown when I scanned. The shop thought it was the dogbone mount.

The next time I drove the car, power quickly fizzled and the CEL came on during an 80% throttle pull. I restarted the car and the light persisted, along with a super rough idle, shaky drive, and altered engine/exhaust noise. I drove slowly 2 miles home, and a pretty large cloud of white smoke puffed out of my exhaust as I pulled into the driveway. The coolant level has remained normal. I haven't seen any more white smoke the few times I've started the car to check codes. Now I have a persistent P0301 fault (cyl 1 misfire), as well as the codes listed at the beginning. 10591 looks like it could be related to an injector short, but that was some extrapolation based on other codes. There's also a puddle of oil leaking near the front passenger wheel.

They sent a tech out yesterday, but only told him about the oil leak. He instantly noticed the wiring harness wasn't fully connected to the cylinder 1 coil pack, and assumed that would fix the misfire when he reconnected it. He said it looked like the front main seal was the source of the oil leak. The cylinder 1 spark plug was fouled, which he thought was unburned fuel rather than oil. We swapped coil packs and the coil pack seemed to be fine. I have new plugs coming in a day or two.

Also, one turbo inlet install video I watched made a point of being careful removing the ground wires for cylinder 1 (fuel injector and coil park ground wires) because they are easy to damage, which is why I opted not to do the install myself. The tech had no idea what I was talking about, so I assume he didn't exercise extra caution here.

1) Does it seem likely I could have blown a head gasket or cracked a cylinder head? Google tells me white smoke almost always means one of those things lol. My oil looks normal and coolant levels seem stable. I'm not confident a new spark plug is going to remedy this.

2) Could this all have been caused by either loose wiring to the coil pack or shorts in the cylinder 1 fuel injector and coil pack ground wires? Both of those would have been directly caused by the technician rather than a perfect storm of a failing (like-new) spark plug. If this is worst-case scenario, I could imagine a failing coil pack/fuel injector causing heavy misfires under load which could have blown a head gasket and caused the oil leak?

Best case, the spark plug fixes the issue but the oil leak might be $1k to fix. I'm just trying to determine if this was all caused by the shop, or if I'm just one of the unlucky few whose RS3 couldn't handle stage 1+.

Thanks for the read and any advice!

TL;DR
Car had major issues after a shop installed a 4" turbo inlet. Fault codes might help me determine if the shop made a mistake.

Since warranty is out the window, I'd take to audi to diagnose frankly. They can prob figure it out.

[Alex D]

Unlikely you have a blown head gasket at your mileage. Swap the plugs to new plugs and check over the installation of the turbo inlet. Make sure not of the coil pack clips were damaged upon disassembly/reassembly. Also make sure the fuel injector connectors are fully clipped and seated if they were touched. Please avoid beating on the car until this issue is resolved. The car should idle smooth and running properly before even attempting anything more than 50% throttle if it were me.

[o1turbo30v]

My goodness, what shop did you take your car to! All these sound like wiring harness/electrical/installation issues

[Das Gas Doc]

Unlikely you have a blown head gasket at your mileage. Swap the plugs to new plugs and check over the installation of the turbo inlet. Make sure not of the coil pack clips were damaged upon disassembly/reassembly. Also make sure the fuel injector connectors are fully clipped and seated if they were touched. Please avoid beating on the car until this issue is resolved. The car should idle smooth and running properly before even attempting anything more than 50% throttle if it were me.

My plugs come tomorrow. I figure I might as well do a compression test since I'm already removing the plugs? And yeah I WISH I could beat on the car now. It runs so terribly it literally won't let me. I'm not driving the car at all until I get it fixed, then I'll baby it till it's proven ready.

I'm using Carista to scan codes. Do you think the scanners from Autozone would give me better results? Or do I need something equivalent to a vag-com to get all the information?

My goodness, what shop did you take your car to! All these sound like wiring harness/electrical/installation issues

The shop was supposedly very reputable. I'll hold off on naming until the situation is resolved, but there's unfortunately more to be unhappy with than what I posted already.

Their argument is that I had a spark plug or something that maybe hadn't been gapped correctly that barely managed to function correctly until I added the turbo inlet. Occam's razor tells me the car is practically brand new and the issues started immediately after they touched my car, so it's probably something they messed up. I just need to prove that.

[Das Gas Doc]

Spent the day doing some diagnostics.

Spark plugs, coil packs, and fuel injectors all appear to be good.

Cylinder 1 compression test resulted 0 psi. 2 and 3 were around 180psi. I didn't test 4 and 5.

[Sikilla]

Spent the day doing some diagnostics.



Spark plugs, coil packs, and fuel injectors all appear to be good.

Cylinder 1 compression test resulted 0 psi. 2 and 3 were around 180psi. I didn't test 4 and 5.

Sounds like you melted a piston. Detonation kills motors

[Alex D]

Spent the day doing some diagnostics.

Spark plugs, coil packs, and fuel injectors all appear to be good.

Cylinder 1 compression test resulted 0 psi. 2 and 3 were around 180psi. I didn't test 4 and 5.

When you left the shop the first time, did it drive funky as soon as you pulled out? If it did, did you continue flooring it even though it wasn’t running properly ? Just trying to figure out what happened and explain the zero compression in one cylinder.

[Das Gas Doc]

When you left the shop the first time, did it drive funky as soon as you pulled out? If it did, did you continue flooring it even though it wasn’t running properly ? Just trying to figure out what happened and explain the zero compression in one cylinder.

It seemed to drive normal initially. I took it easy for the first 20-30 minutes, mostly just listening to the sounds from the intake. There was some weird hesitation/minor jerkiness the first time I got on the throttle (still not 100%). I chalked it up to the ECU adjusting to new parts, or maybe the dogbone mount. It happened 1-2 more times on the way home with normal pulls in between. The car seemed a bit slower overall, but I thought it was in my head. There were no codes thrown when I got home.

I drove it again a few days later and things seemed fine, maybe still not quite as fast as I would've expected.

The next time I drove it is when the problem occurred. I had the car up to operating temp, around 200, and I was doing some spirited driving. Roads were a bit wet, so 80% throttle max. The CEL was thrown on an 80% throttle pull about 5 minutes into the drive.

A few things out of the ordinary I found:
1) The tech mentioned the 034 turbo inlet wasn't compatible with the stock waste gate hard line, so he threw on some random silicone tubing. The tube was heavily pinched behind the cylinder 1 ignition coil. Maybe there was also a leak in the waste gate line?
2) The wiring harness was not completely connected to the cylinder 1 ignition coil (partially because the waste gate line was interfering).
3) The tech said it sounded like there might be a boost leak. Still need to investigate this part
4) The clip for the cam solenoid for cylinder 1 was not fully secured.

I'm not sure if any of these things would lead to the situation I'm in now, but it seems the tech was generally sloppy. There could be more I'm not seeing. Obviously I'm hoping it's something the shop did incorrectly opposed to simply bad luck

[Sikilla]

It seemed to drive normal initially. I took it easy for the first 20-30 minutes, mostly just listening to the sounds from the intake. There was some weird hesitation/minor jerkiness the first time I got on the throttle (still not 100%). I chalked it up to the ECU adjusting to new parts, or maybe the dogbone mount. It happened 1-2 more times on the way home with normal pulls in between. The car seemed a bit slower overall, but I thought it was in my head. There were no codes thrown when I got home.

I drove it again a few days later and things seemed fine, maybe still not quite as fast as I would've expected.

The next time I drove it is when the problem occurred. I had the car up to operating temp, around 200, and I was doing some spirited driving. Roads were a bit wet, so 80% throttle max. The CEL was thrown on an 80% throttle pull about 5 minutes into the drive.

A few things out of the ordinary I found:
1) The tech mentioned the 034 turbo inlet wasn't compatible with the stock waste gate hard line, so he threw on some random silicone tubing. The tube was heavily pinched behind the cylinder 1 ignition coil. Maybe there was also a leak in the waste gate line?
2) The wiring harness was not completely connected to the cylinder 1 ignition coil (partially because the waste gate line was interfering).
3) The tech said it sounded like there might be a boost leak. Still need to investigate this part
4) The clip for the cam solenoid for cylinder 1 was not fully secured.

I'm not sure if any of these things would lead to the situation I'm in now, but it seems the tech was generally sloppy. There could be more I'm not seeing. Obviously I'm hoping it's something the shop did incorrectly opposed to simply bad luck

If cylinder 1 coil pack wasn’t completely connected, it’s safe to say that cylinder detonated, ran lean and melted the piston and or ringland. You should do a oil change and look for metal, it won’t be subtle…. That tech fucked up bad from what I’ve read.

[Das Gas Doc]

If cylinder 1 coil pack wasn’t completely connected, it’s safe to say that cylinder detonated, ran lean and melted the piston and or ringland. You should do a oil change and look for metal, it won’t be subtle…. That tech fucked up bad from what I’ve read.

Ok that was my thought, but I'm still learning car mechanics and I wanted to make sure I have a solid case before I talk to the shop again. I appreciate the help.

[Sikilla]

Ok that was my thought, but I'm still learning car mechanics and I wanted to make sure I have a solid case before I talk to the shop again. I appreciate the help.

I would not start the car let alone drive it again until an oil change is done. Tow it to a shop and try and salvage anything you can. I hope I’m wrong but it doesn’t sound good, from personal experience.

[Alex D]

I would not start the car let alone drive it again until an oil change is done. Tow it to a shop and try and salvage anything you can. I hope I’m wrong but it doesn’t sound good, from personal experience.

Since you are in Florida, I believe O-Star Motorsports and RSP Automotive that are reputable shops that deal with this platform.

[Sikilla]

Since you are in Florida, I believe O-Star Motorsports and RSP Automotive that are reputable shops that deal with this platform.

Also M-tech performance in Ft lauderdale

[TheContrarian]

Unfortunately any reputable shop is only as good as the tech you draw to work on your car. I've installed an intercooler, intake and midpipes myself and everything went fine, and my day job is accounting, never had a minute of formal training in my life.

The difference is I care about how it turns out, while the tech just wants to go home.

They should pay for everything or call a lawyer. The work done is negligent, disconnected coil packs, pinched lines, boost leaks - completely unacceptable.

[Das Gas Doc]

If cylinder 1 coil pack wasn’t completely connected, it’s safe to say that cylinder detonated, ran lean and melted the piston and or ringland. You should do a oil change and look for metal, it won’t be subtle…. That tech fucked up bad from what I’ve read.

Towed it to a shop the regularly builds RS3s. They drained the oil. You were right; the metal was not subtle. They also confirmed 0 compression in cylinder 1.

Out of my different theories, the shop is fairly certain this was a combination of the pinched waste gate line and the poorly connected coil pack. Some combination of overboost and unignited fuel in the cylinder. They don't think this was related to software or any hardware other than what was incorrectly installed.

Talking to the original shop, they are still completely unwilling to even entertain that they might have caused this in any way. He's throwing out a few arguments that don't make sense and we should be able to talk through, but I did want to clarify one of his points.

My main error code was P0301/cylinder 1 misfire. I didn't see an error code for an overboost detection. He is arguing that overboost absolutely would have tripped a code and thrown the car into limp mode before anything bad happened. Is that the case? The new shop thinks that the loose coil pack alone could have caused the problem. Even if the old shop's argument is accurate, that still doesn't explain how this happened if they DIDN'T fuck something up. Spark plugs, fuel injectors, the coil packs themselves, etc. were all in good condition and the car is practically new.

It doesn't seem like anything I say will convince this guy to just accept responsibility, so lawyers will probably have to get involved. But I'll need solid information/explanations if this does go to court.

Thanks again to everyone that has helped out so far!

[Sikilla]

Towed it to a shop the regularly builds RS3s. They drained the oil. You were right; the metal was not subtle. They also confirmed 0 compression in cylinder 1.

Out of my different theories, the shop is fairly certain this was a combination of the pinched waste gate line and the poorly connected coil pack. Some combination of overboost and unignited fuel in the cylinder. They don't think this was related to software or any hardware other than what was incorrectly installed.

Talking to the original shop, they are still completely unwilling to even entertain that they might have caused this in any way. He's throwing out a few arguments that don't make sense and we should be able to talk through, but I did want to clarify one of his points.

My main error code was P0301/cylinder 1 misfire. I didn't see an error code for an overboost detection. He is arguing that overboost absolutely would have tripped a code and thrown the car into limp mode before anything bad happened. Is that the case? The new shop thinks that the loose coil pack alone could have caused the problem. Even if the old shop's argument is accurate, that still doesn't explain how this happened if they DIDN'T fuck something up. Spark plugs, fuel injectors, the coil packs themselves, etc. were all in good condition and the car is practically new.

It doesn't seem like anything I say will convince this guy to just accept responsibility, so lawyers will probably have to get involved. But I'll need solid information/explanations if this does go to court.

Thanks again to everyone that has helped out so far!

I’m sorry man that’s not the outcome anyone wanted to see. That shop that caused this will continue making excuses until you serve them papers.

Did they have experience with this platform and brand or were they an all around performance or maintenance shop?

[Das Gas Doc]

I’m sorry man that’s not the outcome anyone wanted to see. That shop that caused this will continue making excuses until you serve them papers.

Did they have experience with this platform and brand or were they an all around performance or maintenance shop?

They have experience with the platform. They're a fairly big name. Unfortunately, it can always come down to the quality of a single tech. I'm even fine accepting that mistakes happen with anyone, but I'm thoroughly disappointed with how the owner has handled this situation. I can probably just go ahead and name them after tomorrow.

[Sikilla]

They have experience with the platform. They're a fairly big name. Unfortunately, it can always come down to the quality of a single tech. I'm even fine accepting that mistakes happen with anyone, but I'm thoroughly disappointed with how the owner has handled this situation. I can probably just go ahead and name them after tomorrow.

If you they not willing to work with you what do ever behind closed doors, you should absolutely out them so it doesn’t happen to someone else and they take ownership and try and help you out. This platform isn’t cheap to work on, these aren’t Hondas…. I’m cringing at the cost involved for a short block for this car, and I hope you can salvage the head. Sorry again, I hope this gets resolved peacefully for you.

[TToysRuS]

If you they not willing to work with you what do ever behind closed doors, you should absolutely out them so it doesn’t happen to someone else and they take ownership and try and help you out. This platform isn’t cheap to work on, these aren’t Hondas…. I’m cringing at the cost involved for a short block for this car, and I hope you can salvage the head. Sorry again, I hope this gets resolved peacefully for you.

Agreed. Work this out privately and keep you discussions. If they refuse to help or even really dig in to try and see what happened, out them in the forum with specifics but no name calling etc and screenshots. Save someone else the nightmare.