Turbo Replacement

[danstyx]

Hi all,

I recently pulled my turbo to fix a faulty wastegate & actuator rod. I have everything put back together now and am now reading that you need to use anaerobic sealer to seal the exhaust manifold to the cam cover.

Is this true? Do I have to pull this stupid thing apart again to get a good seal?

Thank you <3

[deadheaded]

No sealant. New gasket. Hand tight. Then torque 12mm bolts 25nm 1-3-5-2-4 from front to firewall.

[danstyx]

No sealant. New gasket. Hand tight. Then torque 12mm bolts 25nm 1-3-5-2-4 from front to firewall.

Shoot. I bought a new one and just put it in, but with black gasket maker. I had it running once for about 3-5 minutes after piecing it together.

Still need a new one? Or can I clean this one off.

[deadheaded]

Don't know if you'd need to buy a new one, but I would at a minimum remove, clean gasket and mating surface with acetone, and reinstall correctly.

Someone must have been trolling you. Hate when folks do that.

[Smac770]

It's always good to have the actual instructions for this stuff. erwin.audiusa.com, pay for a day, get all the PDFs for your VIN.

So did you use the metal gasket that suppose to go there also? https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+a4.../1/145-145070/ , the part 22. If so, and it's sealed, hell, run it, see how it goes. If you develop an exhaust leak, fix the situation. If it doesn't, then ....

https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem...ket-06f253039f
At $5, I'd just get a new one.

[deadheaded]

It's always good to have the actual instructions for this stuff. erwin.audiusa.com, pay for a day, get all the PDFs for your VIN.

So did you use the metal gasket that suppose to go there also? https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+a4.../1/145-145070/ , the part 22. If so, and it's sealed, hell, run it, see how it goes. If you develop an exhaust leak, fix the situation. If it doesn't, then ....

Hope it's high heat sealant. If not, that smell won't be pleasant. :D

[danstyx]

Don't know if you'd need to buy a new one, but I would at a minimum remove, clean gasket and mating surface with acetone, and reinstall correctly.

Someone must have been trolling you. Hate when folks do that.

Unfortunately, this was out of my own stupidity. I will own up to that one.

I think I might be able to get away with just getting the cat & manifold bolts off and I can wedge something in there with acetone to remove the still-fresh gasket maker, but we'll see.

[danstyx]

It's always good to have the actual instructions for this stuff. erwin.audiusa.com, pay for a day, get all the PDFs for your VIN.

So did you use the metal gasket that suppose to go there also? https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+a4.../1/145-145070/ , the part 22. If so, and it's sealed, hell, run it, see how it goes. If you develop an exhaust leak, fix the situation. If it doesn't, then ....

https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem...ket-06f253039f
At $5, I'd just get a new one.

Yup! Sure did get part 22, BUT I don't think that gasket maker is high heat. I'm going to reconnect my battery to reset codes & give it another startup. Assuming all is good there, just got to figure out the coolant leak with the passenger-most turbo coolant feed line.

Thank you for this information by the way, I had no idea I could get these instructions. I'll be using this for future projects. :)

- - - Updated - - -

Hope it's high heat sealant. If not, that smell won't be pleasant. :D

Hahahaha...



it's not :(

[Theiceman]

It's always good to have the actual instructions for this stuff. erwin.audiusa.com, pay for a day, get all the PDFs for your VIN.

So did you use the metal gasket that suppose to go there also? https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+a4.../1/145-145070/ , the part 22. If so, and it's sealed, hell, run it, see how it goes. If you develop an exhaust leak, fix the situation. If it doesn't, then ....

https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem...ket-06f253039f
At $5, I'd just get a new one.

lol

[danstyx]

The idle is really bad. That would be the exhaust manifold causing a vacuum leak I assume. Looks like I'll be pulling it apart.

[A4x]

The idle is really bad. That would be the exhaust manifold causing a vacuum leak I assume. Looks like I'll be pulling it apart.

No, a leak in the exhaust manifold will not cause a vacuum leak.

A leak in the exhaust manifold would cause a slow to spool turbo as the exhaust pressure can escape and is not directed at the turbine.

[danstyx]

No, a leak in the exhaust manifold will not cause a vacuum leak.

A leak in the exhaust manifold would cause a slow to spool turbo as the exhaust pressure can escape and is not directed at the turbine.

When I reversed it yesterday, maybe went maybe 5 miles an hour, I heard it spool after a slight tap to the throttle; however, when I let off the throttle, it'd dropdown to 500 rpm and jump back up. Today, I gave it another go and let it idle, but it started sputtering. 92k CVT

I'm going to check my reinstallation of the intake and the MAF sensor to make sure everything is dandy.

[danstyx]

Anyone know if this could be because I only have my cat on and nothing after it? I need to drive it to get my new flexpipe welded to the back tips.

[Smac770]

An exhaust leak could also really confuse the lambda reading from the pre-cat sensor and make A/F management very complicated.

[danstyx]

Further investigation, cleared codes, started the car, got P0229 for underboost and P0420 for my cat. I would assume that would be because of the manifold, so I pulled it off (only took me two hours this time YAY), and looking at the gasket, there were huge ridges in between each port.

Needless to say, I will not be making the mistake of using gasket maker on my manifold again!

[danstyx]

Welp, I spent most of today cleaning and sanding down the block to put the manifold back on. Turbo spools, but still feels underpowered & it will eventually cut out and die. I assume this is still the manifold, P0172 & P0420. Any ideas?

[deadheaded]

Did you plug your MAF back in? Did you plug your O2 sensor in by the cam cover?

If yes to both, get some CRC MAF cleaner and clean the MAF.

[danstyx]

Yes, MAF & both O2 sensors are in.

When I swapped my stock cat to high-flow I forgot to plug it in and melted it. I bought a new housing and transferred the pins over. I'll take a look at them and make sure the pins are clean & in place properly and I'll look at the sensor itself.

[danstyx]

And there's no way this could be the manifold? I'm worried it's not in place properly, but I cleaned the new one I bought and used for like 5 minutes. I got all of the gasket maker off and it look almost as if it were new aside from a few scratches. I have new gaskets coming Wednesday.

[deadheaded]

Those are cat/emissions codes. Nothing to do with the manifold. Possibly the new connector.

[danstyx]

Ah okay. I drove it around the block and got some nice turbo noises, so that makes sense.

[danstyx]

I would also like to mention, that MAF connector I replaced work great and I had no issues or codes from it prior to removing the turbo & fixing the wastegate.

[deadheaded]

I would also like to mention, that MAF connector I replaced work great and I had no issues or codes from it prior to removing the turbo & fixing the wastegate.

Right. Could just need cleaning. Make sure everything is seated well with it too, including the hoses.

[danstyx]

I'm sorry, I'm still new to cars in general and am learning, but by hoses, you mean the ones that connect to the turbo?

[deadheaded]

I'm sorry, I'm still new to cars in general and am learning, but by hoses, you mean the ones that connect to the turbo?

No I mean the ones connecting your MAF. Clean MAF and when you reinstall make sure the hoses are seated correctly and clamped tight, and make sure the connector is clicked in good.

Also may want to do the same with the 1st o2 sensor, while also triple-checking the connection points for it.

[danstyx]

No I mean the ones connecting your MAF. Clean MAF and when you reinstall make sure the hoses are seated correctly and clamped tight, and make sure the connector is clicked in good.

Also may want to do the same with the 1st o2 sensor, while also triple-checking the connection points for it.

Will do. Out of town today & tomorrow, but Tuesday I will get that done. Thank you for the help. :)

[danstyx]

Meant to reply sooner, but cleaning and adjusting the pins on the MAF worked like a charm. Pin 1/3 on the connector wasn't all-the-way in place.

Thank you to everyone that helped! This community is full of smart & awesome people. deadheaded, thank you especially for helping me throughout. It feels very nice to drive around without a faulty wastegate! <3

[danstyx]

Well, after a day of driving and some cold weather, it's having idle issues again & codes have returned.

Had the spark plugs tested, no issues. Don't think it's the manifold because I get nice stututus off of a very light tap on the throttle (never happened prior to replacing my wastegate). I cleaned the MAF sensor & connector as best as I could and made sure the pins were set.

I brought it to get an oil change and asked them to look into it a bit. They said I needed to get the ECU flashed by the dealer after altering the turbo which is confusing, because I've never heard of that before.

Not sure what to do other than bring it to the stealership or get a vag-com to figure out if it's the MAF or O2 sensors.

[danstyx]

After a full scan on a better OBDII reader, I am now seeing a few additional codes.

Current Codes:
01- Engine Management
P1297: Connection Charger-Throttle Valve Pressure Drop
P0172: Fuel Trim, Bank 1 System too Rich
U1113: Function Limitation Due to Received Malfunction Valve
U1113: Function Limitation Due to Received Malfunction Valve
02- Transmission
P1857: Load Signal Error Message from Engine Control
03- Brake Electronics
02214: Tire Pressure Warning - Intermittent
01314: Engine Control Module Read Trouble Codes - Intermittent
19- Diagnostic Data Interface-Gateway
03041: Energy Management Active - Intermittent
02256: Quiescent Current Upper Limit Reached - Intermittent
53- Parking Brake
464384: U1113 Function Restricted Due To Faults In Other Modules
OBDII Permanent Codes ($0A)
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1


I'm genuinely at a loss for what could be going on.

After picking my car up and cold-starting it (30 degrees F), it started immediately with a bad idle, cut out, and died. Unplugged MAF sensor and restarted, same thing. According to the place I had service my car, the spark plugs are fine. I also noticed, that after 10-15 miles of driving, I went through about 1/4th of a tank of gas. While accelerating from a stoplight, the car will sluggishly start moving and I won't get any boost until I let off the throttle and go back on it, but when I do, the turbo kicks in immediately. I'm going Wednesday to get a smoke test, but I'm fairly certain the manifold is on correctly.

I'm also wondering if it could possibly be my diverter valve, I do have an aftermarket one; however, I cleaned & installed it back on the turbo prior to putting the turbo back in. Could it causes these issues?

Other things I think it may be: Coilpack, fuel injectors, O2 sensors, PCV valve, MAP sensor???

I'm dead in the water for a few weeks since I live in a small town & the only place that works on Euro cars is booked until the 23rd and the nearest Audi dealership is 200+ miles away. Thank you all.

[SNice]

You’ve got a lot going on here!

What diverter valve do you have installed on the car?


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[danstyx]

You’ve got a lot going on here!

What diverter valve do you have installed on the car?


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ECSTuning diverter valve spacer.

It's hard to believe all of these codes can be because of one thing. Everything was fine prior to removing the turbo other than the P0229 underboost I had.

[deadheaded]

Battery voltage? Lots of times when cars are down for repair the battery will drain if not tendered. If it was on it's way out and you didn't tender, could be dead. Just a guess, but it is strange that random codes are popping up seemingly out of nowhere and generally unrelated to any repairs.

[danstyx]

Battery voltage? Lots of times when cars are down for repair the battery will drain if not tendered. If it was on it's way out and you didn't tender, could be dead. Just a guess, but it is strange that random codes are popping up seemingly out of nowhere and generally unrelated to any repairs.

It was out for at least three weeks. I'll get my multimeter out and check, normal reading while off is like 13-14 volts? Also, it's much easier to get to idle normally when it's at operating temps.

[danstyx]

Battery reporting 12.46 volts.

[danstyx]

My suspicions are still on the manifold, DV, or some other hose leaking. Wednesday I'm going for a smoke test.

I doubt it's the MAF, same problems connected, disconnected, cleaned. I ran the car a few weeks back with no MAF sensor and did not have any issues like this.

[SNice]

ECSTuning diverter valve spacer.

It's hard to believe all of these codes can be because of one thing. Everything was fine prior to removing the turbo other than the P0229 underboost I had.

Our cars were not designed to vent to atmosphere. That spacer vents to atmosphere and probably messes with your MAF readings. The computer is counting on air that isn’t there as the diverter valve normally recirculates it back into the system.

Sounds cool but defeats the actual purpose of the diverter valve.

Just remove it and see what happens.


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[danstyx]

Our cars were not designed to vent to atmosphere. That spacer vents to atmosphere and probably messes with your MAF readings. The computer is counting on air that isn’t there as the diverter valve normally recirculates it back into the system.

Sounds cool but defeats the actual purpose of the diverter valve.

Just remove it and see what happens.


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I will give it a go tomorrow and see, but I've ran this in the car for over 8 months with no issues aside from the P0299 from my faulty wastegate.

[Smac770]

If you're having issues, you minimize the foreign variables. A venting DV is foolish on these engines. But having it while you're trying to resolve unknown operational errors is a straight problem.

[JLAllroad]

What other bolt ons do you have?

Are you running a tune?

Clear all codes, see what comes back and yes get rid of the dv spacer, at best it’s just noise at worst it’s spray oil mist in the bay and causing other problems.


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[danstyx]

If you're having issues, you minimize the foreign variables. A venting DV is foolish on these engines. But having it while you're trying to resolve unknown operational errors is a straight problem.

I am waiting for it to warm up outside a bit more and I will take it off & see where I get. Thank you :)

I can live without the stututus if it means I can have a reliable car.