Valve Cover Gasket Replacement B8 2.0

[1099ezg]

Hello everyone, all day today I’ve been watching forms and videos and going through the process of taking off my valve cover to change the gasket and all the timing seals

I have got the gasket off, but I am confused on how to remove the fuel and vacuum pump the proper way to get the new gasket on before I get the valve cover back together.

I also want to know this, I’ve heard a lot of people saying that I need to detension the timing so the cams don’t pop up.

I did not do this because I heard some people say it won’t, and my cams stayed in perfect with the slots. Although I am worried, and want to make sure that while the timing chain is still on and tensioned thst I should not have any issues with timing after this.

The cams look to be in the same place as when I took the gasket off, but just want to rule out that possibility.

I just want to do the fuel pump correctly because of course, it never fails that something will break, and while taking off my Pcv unit the exhaust oil water separator pipe thst was connected had the nossle into the pcv break off. Gotta wait till Wednesday to put my car all the way back together for a $90 piece of plastic, where the stealer ship wanted $240 lol

Last thing, I’m currently in the process of cleaning the valve cover old gasket off, and the dealer told me to use a razer which I have, but I am worried because a few micro pieces of the old gasket fell into the engine. I assume since it’s just a very very small piece of rubber nothing will happen, but I am thinking about draining the oil to be safe.

I want to know if there’s an easier way to block the internal engine area and the cams with something so I do not drop any more flakes of rubber in there.

[deadheaded]

You can blow the engine out really well with air after scraping the residue, but small flakes are pretty much unavoidable. Be sure to wipe mating surface down with alcohol or acetone before putting anaerobic sealer on. I used Hondabond because I feel it is the best but you can certainly use the green overpriced Audi stuff (recommended) or Permatex The Right Stuff. Just make sure you use anaerobic. Torque bolts correctly and in sequence and you should have no issues. Do an oil change when done.

Vacuum pump is just 4 10mm bolts in the rear, maybe loosening a clamp or two to remove any connections, and a gasket. HPFP is just undoing electrical connector, removing 2 bolts, and loosening/removing hard line (17mm fitting?) under the unit. Then removing/checking cam follower. I recommend changing the Vacuum pump gasket and fuel pump o-ring, and if necessary, the cam follower, while having it apart. Torque everything to spec.

"Naptown Tuner" has some pretty good videos on Youtube showing how to do all of this with little possibility of error or breaking anything. You may have to watch a full cam install to see him replace the gasket sealer, but it is worth it.

Here are two for vacuum/HPFP:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcbgQUdq8DQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcnuLWjWlI4

Main thing is make sure you have the right tools for the job beforehand. Can't emphasize that enough. So many folks try to work on these cars with just a Craftsman mechanic set and end up stripping their bolts and/or not being able to reach what they need to.

[1099ezg]

Thank you for your reply. The only reason Im worried with the HPFP, on the audi service manual it had shown that there is a spring or as they call it "roller tappet" that pushes onto the cam. Im just worried that I could mess up the repositioning when replacing.

I do believe I have all of the correct tools for the job, and Ive got torque wrenches so I should be able to put everything back to specs. Although finding some of the torque specs are hard to come by, but ill find them.

The one thing I am worried though is the sealant. The dealer gave me all the correct seals for the job, but gave me silicon sealant D 176 501 A1. I looked it up online because the instructions are all in german and i was curious on the cure time, but then it popped up as the lower oil pan gasket sealant! Are the sealants the same? The sealant is black not green. I hope it is the same because he told me it was for the cover and made me spend $26 for it.

[RPMtech147]

Just take some pieces of cloth and cover up the top of the head best you can. Tiny micro pieces of gasket material will get in there, just minimize as best as possible. I've resealed the valve cover just like you're doing and didn't have any issues. You just need to screw down the valve cover in a very slow crisscross pattern, multiple passes.

[1099ezg]

I will say that the previous sealant on my model was black, not green.

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Did you change your oil afterward? I was thinking about it but not sure if it would be necessary, I only have about 1500 miles on my oil at the moment.

[deadheaded]

Thank you for your reply. The only reason Im worried with the HPFP, on the audi service manual it had shown that there is a spring or as they call it "roller tappet" that pushes onto the cam. Im just worried that I could mess up the repositioning when replacing.

That spring isn't going anywhere unless you physically take it apart, if I recall correctly. Just remove the pump (spring is attached to it), replace the (blue) o-ring, check the cam follower at the vacuum pump to make sure it is still in good shape (if not, replace), and then re-install.

Watch this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF-z_sT3Z20

Only thing I would say about the video protocol is the spline bolts are M10 (not M9) and I didn't pull my fuel pump fuse. Wasn't a ton of pressure there, at least in my case. Also, you probably won't have to turn the crank in order to push the pump back in like he did. On the off chance that you do - just turn the crank clockwise a tad until you can push it in.


I'm sure the black sealant is fine as long as it is anaerobic.

I changed the oil but you will probably be fine without doing it.

[1099ezg]

Yep i learned my lesson about the fuse, got a nice spray of fuel in my face taking it off!😂 my issue right now is getting all of these hoses and piping out of the way to get them out, seems like it’s going to be a real pain getting the bolt under the fuel pump off,

Thanks for all of your help!

[deadheaded]

Yep i learned my lesson about the fuse, got a nice spray of fuel in my face taking it off!😂 my issue right now is getting all of these hoses and piping out of the way to get them out, seems like it’s going to be a real pain getting the bolt under the fuel pump off,

Thanks for all of your help!

Pretty sure you are talking about the M10 triple square just down and to the right. Need to use an extension and preferably a stubby bit.

[1099ezg]

It is the 17mm bolt under the fuel pump, but I have a wrench that will get it out tomorrow, it is going to rain tonight, do I have to worry about water getting into my open engine bay with no cover or are the hood seals pretty water tight?

[deadheaded]

I used stubby flare wrench for that one but if you can contort your arm under the firewall a regular wrench will do. No idea on the rain issue, sorry.

[Smac770]

Union nut, not bolt. The 17mm union nut on the hard line from the high pressure fuel pump to the high pressure fuel rail. Wrench to crack free, crows foot to use with torque wrench to resecure.

[1099ezg]

How long should I wait after applying the anaerobic sealant to put the valve cover back on?

[Theiceman]

How long should I wait after applying the anaerobic sealant to put the valve cover back on?

immediately. it wont start to cure until you cut off the oxygen supply.

also remember this is really a flange sealant being used between two machined surfaces.. less is more.

[1099ezg]

Wow, I just noticed a Knick on the top valve cover where the camshaft sits in. The cam can sit in fine, but right above the little groove there is a knick. Is that going to be okay?

[1099ezg]

https://ibb.co/vBK0VSS

[deadheaded]

Take a picture and post please.

[1099ezg]

Right above you, I don’t think it was there when I took it off but I have no clue how it got there, it’s just been sitting in the same spot lol

[1099ezg]

I’m hoping I can just use some 2000 grit sandpaper or something to atleast smooth it so it doesn’t chip off more

[deadheaded]

Pic isn't loading at the link. Can you post here?

[1099ezg]

https://imgur.com/a/KgUGcPv


It will not let me directly upload a image for some reason, but here is imgur

[Theiceman]

no worries , dont touch it if there is nothing protruding .. check the other corners too
and be sure you know EXACTLY where to put the sealant .. and where not to ..

[1099ezg]

I LIGHTLY sanded the corner because I felt a light jag, but now the groove is smooth. The grit was not high enough and there is some light scratches in the journal in the corner but not even scratched enough to feel it with my nail, I was thinkin about scotch brite or some high level sandpaper to just smooth that part of the journal out, but I just wanted to make sure that the integrity is still enough that it wont start breaking up or something over time. I am suppoesd to have my car running up tomorrow and do not want to order a new valve cover that will take 2 weeks to come in lol.

I was going to put the sealant on the valve cover instead of the cylinder head, because those grooves in the picture you see are all where I need to put the sealant, so I thought I would follow those.

[deadheaded]

Yeah agree you should be okay there. That's not a cam contact point. Glad you polished up any jagged protrusions. I'd not put the sealant on the cam cover and rather do it the correct way. If you apply correctly, the chip shouldn't be an issue if that's what you are concerned about. I'd clean the contact points on the cover a bit better though. Good luck!

[1099ezg]

Why shouldn’t I put it on the cam cover? I feel like it would be more accurate if I just filled the gasket holes on there. Is it because it could shift more when placing it together

[1099ezg]

Another question, I changed my spark plugs a week ago, and the light went on saying it was too rich, and the tips were already carbon fouled, I forgot to check the gap which was stupid but maybe the manufacturer messed the gap up and could that cause this?

[1099ezg]

I was debating on just grabbing some new plugs while I got everything out anyway and checking the gap this time, there was no light before I changed the plugs but it was revving weird when it got cold, I just got this car in the summer at 115k miles so I thought i should change them and the tops were white, and I saw some oil in the top by the coils and that lead me to changing the gaskets and seals

[Theiceman]

ok the grooves are NOT where you should put the sealant ... well some of them anyway .. some of the grooves are reliefs ( a place for the sealant to go as you will inevitably put too much on . ) i may have a pic of where the sealant goes from the service manual ... il have a look.



bead thickness 2mm , cover must be applied within 5 minutes of applying sealant.

[1099ezg]

Awesome thank you! I see now that the grooves near the cam are NOT to be filled, thankfully I saw this otherwise that would have been a mistake lol, so if I follow that, I should be putting it on the valve cover then and not the cylinder head correct? Because that diagram is on the cover.

Anyone have the torque specs for the vacuum pump in the back? I might be able to find it if not, I was not going to torque anything until I got the cover on first, but I want to make sure I’m quick so everything is tight when hardening

[Theiceman]

this might help too

i knew you would make that mistake , that's why i commented lol. dont feel bad . i made the same mistake about 40 years ago on my first ever build.

[1099ezg]

The pump that sits at the end of the left cam thats connected to the high pressure fuel pump, I believe it is a vaccum pump that connects to the top of the valve cover, do you know the torque specs for that? I cant seem to find it in my manual

[Theiceman]

no , i cant remember .. i think i gave mine a couple of light uga ugas and calld it a day .. so about 11ft lbs smac might know.

[1099ezg]

Is my timing ok? The black links don't seem to be lined up right, and the right side has two links. I never touched my timing during this and wrote sharpie marks when i took the cover off to ensure that it is not disturbed. I have never done timing stuff so I am unsure.

https://imgur.com/a/wgneM2y

[Theiceman]

can not tell from a pic . marks on the chain ( coloured links ) are for installation only.once rotating the engine they mean nothing. But it wouldn't hurt to recheck your timing once the cover is on

( btw if you are using imgur copy and paste the link for forums into your post and it will show up here.. people wont have to press links to get to your pictures. )

umm.... you bought a new cam seal plug for the back right ?? your old one is still sitting in there . it is supposed to be inserted after you bolt your cover down with no sealant.

[1099ezg]

Yeah I bought one, while you were typing that I had the new one sitting in the slot wondering how that is going to seal properly Ill put it in at the end, thank you! about to seal the cover now

[1099ezg]

Did you see my message above about the spark plugs? I am not sure if bad gap could make the engine run too rich, I am going to switch to another new pair anyway to be safe.

[Theiceman]

yeah throw new plugs in ... running rich can be so many things, everything from bad o2 to leaking injectors, to bad HPFP .

One issue at a time, lets get that top end sealed up .

[1099ezg]

Suunds good, its just weird it only was a issue with the engine light after I changed the plugs, about to pop the valve cover on now! Thank you guys for all your help!

[1099ezg]

Wow! Getting that cover on was very hard. My cam started lifting up after changing the vacuum pump seal, and it wouldn’t go back down, had to loosen the vacuum pump and try multiple times with the head cover screws to push it down. It took so much time my sealant dried and I had to redo the seal all over again, it was a real pain in the butt right there

[Theiceman]

Wow! Getting that cover on was very hard. My cam started lifting up after changing the vacuum pump seal, and it wouldn’t go back down, had to loosen the vacuum pump and try multiple times with the head cover screws to push it down. It took so much time my sealant dried and I had to redo the seal all over again, it was a real pain in the butt right there

if it was easy .. everynbody would do it :)

but i do believe the manual says to compress timing chain tensioner before even starting .. but you got there..

[1099ezg]

Yep!

I just hope its ok because I had to do the right side screwed down before I could even fit some of the left side screws in, so I couldnt fully follow the sequence. I torqued with sequence and then did a 90 degree turn per the manual. About to fire it up now! Just putting some new plugs in

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I let it cure for 18 hours, so hopefully that is enough