Jay's SQ5 (re)Build

[JayCar]

So I thought I'd start this to document (if nothing more but for my own records!) the process of it all.

The run down, back story... 2014 SQ5, 93K miles (regular services done). Mods are single SC pulley, APR tune and air box mod w/ Afe filter. A few other bits but nothing else power related. A few weeks ago on a several day trip here in TX we ran through the twisted sisters a couple times. 1st pass through was fine, and the 2nd pass (on the way back) seemed fine as well. Drove another 25 mins or so to the next town and as I approached the stop sign I heard the dreaded tap, tap, tap, tap. I immediately knew what it was but was hoping it wasn't. I pulled over, popped the hood, looked for signs of anything obvious (pulley, belt, low coolant) and saw nothing. I was on the road in a bad spot so limped down a bit further and pulled over. When I did, the EPC light came on, low coolant light came on and it just shut off. Waited a while and tried to start it - cthunk - nothing - seized... Yay. I rented an auto carrier (TY local U-Haul!) and towed it the 5 hours back home.

As of this week, new (used) engine has been purchased and will be here end of next week or beginning of following week depending on freight availability. I'll start the tear down this weekend, or beginning of next week as I want to know exactly what failed, but it's not a huge mystery since the engine is completely seized.

Planned changes: Lower 187mm pulley, Ultracharger, external HX (APR CPS), ported supercharger (Shane) and matching TB adapter. When the new motor gets here, it'll be inspected (chains, guides, tensioners, valve cover gaskets) and I'll change the thermostat, water pump, and swap over my PCV that I JUST changed out (3 days before it cratered), swap over my plugs and coils (less than a year on them), and change all the belts. Most importantly, I'll be adding a dipstick.

One of the things I've been deliberating over is the crank pulley setup. My first thought is Fluidampr w/ the 187MM ring (can upgrade later if desired), but I'm really on board with the positive advantages of the fluidampr. On the other hand, the other other option is to reuse (or get a new) OEM crank pulley and slap a larger one over it. I still haven't made up my mind on this one yet. I'm open to thoughts here, but let's not turn it into a mega thread about it. LOL

...more to come!

Thanks!

[RoofRails]

So I thought I'd start this to document (if nothing more but for my own records!) the process of it all.

The run down, back story... 2014 SQ5, 93K miles (regular services done). Mods are single SC pulley, APR tune and air box mod w/ Afe filter. A few other bits but nothing else power related. A few weeks ago on a several day trip here in TX we ran through the twisted sisters a couple times. 1st pass through was fine, and the 2nd pass (on the way back) seemed fine as well. Drove another 25 mins or so to the next town and as I approached the stop sign I heard the dreaded tap, tap, tap, tap. I immediately knew what it was but was hoping it wasn't. I pulled over, popped the hood, looked for signs of anything obvious (pulley, belt, low coolant) and saw nothing. I was on the road in a bad spot so limped down a bit further and pulled over. When I did, the EPC light came on, low coolant light came on and it just shut off. Waited a while and tried to start it - cthunk - nothing - seized... Yay. I rented an auto carrier (TY local U-Haul!) and towed it the 5 hours back home.

As of this week, new (used) engine has been purchased and will be here end of next week or beginning of following week depending on freight availability. I'll start the tear down this weekend, or beginning of next week as I want to know exactly what failed, but it's not a huge mystery since the engine is completely seized.

Planned changes: Lower 187mm pulley, Ultracharger, external HX (APR CPS), ported supercharger (Shane) and matching TB adapter. When the new motor gets here, it'll be inspected (chains, guides, tensioners, valve cover gaskets) and I'll change the thermostat, water pump, and swap over my PCV that I JUST changed out (3 days before it cratered), swap over my plugs and coils (less than a year on them), and change all the belts. Most importantly, I'll be adding a dipstick.

One of the things I've been deliberating over is the crank pulley setup. My first thought is Fluidampr w/ the 187MM ring (can upgrade later if desired), but I'm really on board with the positive advantages of the fluidampr. On the other hand, the other other option is to reuse (or get a new) OEM crank pulley and slap a larger one over it. I still haven't made up my mind on this one yet. I'm open to thoughts here, but let's not turn it into a mega thread about it. LOL

...more to come!

Thanks!

Get the Fluidamper and don't look back. I love mine. I have already played around with different pulley sizes , started with a 194 ring and upgraded to a 200mm ring. People will claim that the solid one piece units are lighter and help acceleration but there are a few of us running them that have zero issues in the acceleration department so in not buying it. If it's on your radar then definitely do it.

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[JayCar]

Get the Fluidamper and don't look back. I love mine. I have already played around with different pulley sizes , started with a 194 ring and upgraded to a 200mm ring. People will claim that the solid one piece units are lighter and help acceleration but there are a few of us running them that have zero issues in the acceleration department so in not buying it. If it's on your radar then definitely do it.

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Yeah for me, it's definitely not about power gained with that piece. It's about the lower vibration and smoooooooothness :-) I just need to find the best place to pick one up that isn't sky high or has them in stock. Also, I'll need to pick your brain about the HPT TCU tune, that'll be next on the list. I have HPT already from my previous cars, so I have some familiarity with it, but that will come after I get this done and all the post swap issues (that WILL pop up) ironed out.

[hananmori12]

93k and the engine dead?
Do you know what happened or not yet? How much did you pay for used engine?

I thought it was more reliable than that!
My friend also kill his engine with about 95-100k..

[a4lownslow]

Wow sorry to hear. I just pulled this one out of a 2013 S4. 62k miles Image1634872007.960736.jpgImage1634872023.842867.jpg


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[JayCar]

93k and the engine dead?
Do you know what happened or not yet? How much did you pay for used engine?

I thought it was more reliable than that!
My friend also kill his engine with about 95-100k..

Don’t know for sure what happened yet. Either a spun rod bearing, cracked piston or bent rod. I’ll know more when I tear it down.

I paid $2850 (plus tax & freight) for the used engine, but compared to others out there I think I got a decent deal. Most are going for $4k and up.

[JayCar]

Wow sorry to hear. I just pulled this one out of a 2013 S4. 62k miles Image1634872007.960736.jpgImage1634872023.842867.jpg


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Yeah it was traumatic at the time, not pretending it wasn’t, but at least I’ll have a nice build when I’m done.

Are you doing a rebuild or just selling that one?

[MSq5]

So I thought I'd start this to document (if nothing more but for my own records!) the process of it all.

The run down, back story... 2014 SQ5, 93K miles (regular services done). Mods are single SC pulley, APR tune and air box mod w/ Afe filter. A few other bits but nothing else power related. A few weeks ago on a several day trip here in TX we ran through the twisted sisters a couple times. 1st pass through was fine, and the 2nd pass (on the way back) seemed fine as well. Drove another 25 mins or so to the next town and as I approached the stop sign I heard the dreaded tap, tap, tap, tap. I immediately knew what it was but was hoping it wasn't. I pulled over, popped the hood, looked for signs of anything obvious (pulley, belt, low coolant) and saw nothing. I was on the road in a bad spot so limped down a bit further and pulled over. When I did, the EPC light came on, low coolant light came on and it just shut off. Waited a while and tried to start it - cthunk - nothing - seized... Yay. I rented an auto carrier (TY local U-Haul!) and towed it the 5 hours back home.

As of this week, new (used) engine has been purchased and will be here end of next week or beginning of following week depending on freight availability. I'll start the tear down this weekend, or beginning of next week as I want to know exactly what failed, but it's not a huge mystery since the engine is completely seized.

Planned changes: Lower 187mm pulley, Ultracharger, external HX (APR CPS), ported supercharger (Shane) and matching TB adapter. When the new motor gets here, it'll be inspected (chains, guides, tensioners, valve cover gaskets) and I'll change the thermostat, water pump, and swap over my PCV that I JUST changed out (3 days before it cratered), swap over my plugs and coils (less than a year on them), and change all the belts. Most importantly, I'll be adding a dipstick.

One of the things I've been deliberating over is the crank pulley setup. My first thought is Fluidampr w/ the 187MM ring (can upgrade later if desired), but I'm really on board with the positive advantages of the fluidampr. On the other hand, the other other option is to reuse (or get a new) OEM crank pulley and slap a larger one over it. I still haven't made up my mind on this one yet. I'm open to thoughts here, but let's not turn it into a mega thread about it. LOL

...more to come!

Thanks!

"Not a huge mystery". Engines don't just seize. If it didn't run hot from coolant loss, it lost lubrication of bearings from low oil volume or pressure, or experienced a catastrophic mechanical failure (timing chain or tensioners as one example). All are rare at that mileage on a Stage 1 tune.

Please update us on tear down results.

[hananmori12]

Don’t know for sure what happened yet. Either a spun rod bearing, cracked piston or bent rod. I’ll know more when I tear it down.

I paid $2850 (plus tax & freight) for the used engine, but compared to others out there I think I got a decent deal. Most are going for $4k and up.

Why you prefer to get used engine instead of fixing it?

[a4lownslow]

Yeah it was traumatic at the time, not pretending it wasn’t, but at least I’ll have a nice build when I’m done.

Are you doing a rebuild or just selling that one?

Pretty rare to have a catastrophic failure so early with these motors.

My engine is toast. Block melted through cylinder 1 & 2, unknown history.

I bought a used replacement engine for $3900 shipped to my door. Best deal I could find. Sounds like you got a steal on yours. All the ones I found on car-part were minimum 4k up to 6k


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[JayCar]

Why you prefer to get used engine instead of fixing it?

A few lines of thought in this, but it mainly comes down to parts availability.

In order to fix a failure like this, at absolute minimum you’re looking at a set of pistons. OEM pistons (with rings) are $200 each. So you’re at $1200, that doesn’t include connecting rods, rod bearings, crank bearings, all of which would need replacing. I can’t find a single manufacturer that makes aftermarket pistons for these, so OEM is the option here.

Any damaged valves? Did the crank get damaged if a bearing failed or succumbed to damage from the failure? Maybe, maybe not. Won’t know for sure until I get in it.

Then the big item is the block. Getting a block repaired if it was damaged (honed or sleeved) on a “normal” engine is straight forward. No one wants to touch these (cylinder wall coating is very specialized). So replacement is the option here. Is this one damaged? IDK yet, but it’s pretty likely. So replacement is the option.

I didn’t even consider going to the dealer to buy a short block. lol They sell for $3900. I purchased this complete assembly for $1K less. I can then sell the supercharger and any other items to recoup some cost. So based on all those factors it made more sense (to me) economically and logistically to get a used replacement engine.

[JayCar]

Pretty rare to have a catastrophic failure so early with these motors.

My engine is toast. Block melted through cylinder 1 & 2, unknown history.

I bought a used replacement engine for $3900 shipped to my door. Best deal I could find. Sounds like you got a steal on yours. All the ones I found on car-part were minimum 4k up to 6k


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Yikes man, I’m sure that was not fun to experience! Hopefully you were able to do some upgrades too. :-)

Did you run into any issues with the swap?

[a4lownslow]

Yikes man, I’m sure that was not fun to experience! Hopefully you were able to do some upgrades too. :-)

Did you run into any issues with the swap?

I bought the car from dealer auction knowing it had a bad motor, so I was prepared. Steal of a deal. I paid 9k and it’s a 25k retail car.

No issues with the swap. About 7 hours removal/ tear down. Replacement motor shows up Tuesday. Probably another 12 hours to prep and install motor. Should go pretty smooth.


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[JayCar]

I bought the car from dealer auction knowing it had a bad motor, so I was prepared. Steal of a deal. I paid 9k and it’s a 25k retail car.

No issues with the swap. About 7 hours removal/ tear down. Replacement motor shows up Tuesday. Probably another 12 hours to prep and install motor. Should go pretty smooth.


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Yeah man, that’s a good buy. Are you doing it yourself? My garage is about to turn to chaos. lol Not my first rodeo though.

[a4lownslow]

Yeah man, that’s a good buy. Are you doing it yourself? My garage is about to turn to chaos. lol Not my first rodeo though.

Yeah I’m doing it myself in my garage. I’ve done quite a few engine swaps on various Audi platforms including the b8. Never a 3.0T.

My garage got pretty messy too during teardown, but after the fact I cleaned up and organized for the next phase. Makes it much easier to work.

I’ve got the quick jacks which makes life so much easier
Image1634910076.486109.jpgImage1634910081.952635.jpgImage1634910087.142057.jpg


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[JayCar]

Yeah I’m doing it myself in my garage. I’ve done quite a few engine swaps on various Audi platforms including the b8. Never a 3.0T.

My garage got pretty messy too during teardown, but after the fact I cleaned up and organized for the next phase. Makes it much easier to work.

I’ve got the quick jacks which makes life so much easier
Image1634910076.486109.jpgImage1634910081.952635.jpgImage1634910087.142057.jpg


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Nice, I was actually thinking about picking one up myself. What model is that?

I’m also glad someone else is about to venture into this at the same time. We can commiserate. ;-)

[a4lownslow]

Nice, I was actually thinking about picking one up myself. What model is that?

I’m also glad someone else is about to venture into this at the same time. We can commiserate. ;-)

I’ve got the 5000 SLX. It’s worked great and I use it on many different vehicles (I own a small car dealership)

How many miles are on the motor you purchased? I considered doing the timing on the replacement motor but being low mileage I think I’ll just leave it be for now


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[fastboatster]

I think that people being surprised by the engine failure at relatively low miles are missing one key component of this story - OP did a lot of continuous twisties driving prior to the failure. I'm not sure what his pace was, but lots of heat from the DP setup (plus TX is hot as hell), high g-forces due to cornering and elevation changes plus high rpms probably lead to lubrication failure (oil got too hot, perhaps or some bearing got oil starved for a few moments due to oil slushing away from the pickup tube or both). I had a somewhat similar issue with my old engine, except that my oil level was very slightly lower than min when I checked it after it seized. PCV was blowing the oil like crazy due to some loose vent hose so the level went down after some driving. All it took is one WOT pull on the uphill onramp to spun 2 mains and 2 rod bearings. Anyways, 3900 for a long block is a great price, almost a steal. Way better than many used engines with unknown "tooning" history and unknown timing tensioner and guide life left. Wish I went with a new long block.

[JayCar]

I’ve got the 5000 SLX. It’s worked great and I use it on many different vehicles (I own a small car dealership)

How many miles are on the motor you purchased? I considered doing the timing on the replacement motor but being low mileage I think I’ll just leave it be for now


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89K, but I think I might go a different route. I found a brand new short block (pistons, rings, rods, crank, oil pan and pickup) for $2800 shipped. So, I'm thinking about doing the short block, then timing kit and moving over all of my accessories. I know its a ton more work, but since I'm doing it myself it's not costing me anything. I'd also feel much better about the rotating assembly (which is the most failure prone if any piece is) being brand new. I have a day or so to decide.

I think that people being surprised by the engine failure at relatively low miles are missing one key component of this story - OP did a lot of continuous twisties driving prior to the failure. I'm not sure what his pace was, but lots of heat from the DP setup (plus TX is hot as hell), high g-forces due to cornering and elevation changes plus high rpms probably lead to lubrication failure (oil got too hot, perhaps or some bearing got oil starved for a few moments due to oil slushing away from the pickup tube or both). I had a somewhat similar issue with my old engine, except that my oil level was very slightly lower than min when I checked it after it seized. PCV was blowing the oil like crazy due to some loose vent hose so the level went down after some driving. All it took is one WOT pull on the uphill onramp to spun 2 mains and 2 rod bearings. Anyways, 3900 for a long block is a great price, almost a steal. Way better than many used engines with unknown "tooning" history and unknown timing tensioner and guide life left. Wish I went with a new long block.

Pace was pretty quick, my SQ is on cooilovers so I was certainly pushing the limits. It was about 80º on that particular day, also, I'm still single pulley. I wouldn't be shocked if that were the issue, but surprised. I just did an oil change 2 days prior so I know the oil level was fine. It's quite possible though as I don't think there are baffles in the oil pan to prevent that from happening at high G, high speed maneuvers. I could be wrong though. It sucks it happened, but it's where we are right now. :-)

[hananmori12]

Did you have HX?

[JayCar]

Did you have HX?

I will after this, one on the way. I had factory before.

[RoofRails]

I will after this, one on the way. I had factory before.

I'm guessing you dont/didn't monitor Intake Air Temps ?

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[JayCar]

I'm guessing you dont/didn't monitor Intake Air Temps ?

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No. Never had the need. I’ve had it since 2015 and have had sessions where I’ve ran it hard, but never in twists and turns like this. Only 1 track day ever.

[RoofRails]

No. Never had the need. I’ve had it since 2015 and have had sessions where I’ve ran it hard, but never in twists and turns like this. Only 1 track day ever.

Once you go STG2 there is a need to keep an eye on your IAT if there is only one additional thing to look at outside of what's available on the dash IAT would be it. On your next set up you should definitely get a way to monitor IAT.

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[JayCar]

Once you go STG2 there is a need to keep an eye on your IAT if there is only one additional thing to look at outside of what's available on the dash IAT would be it. On your next set up you should definitely get a way to monitor IAT.

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I have a P3 gauge, which can read IAT. I’ll definitely keep an eye on it. Especially living here in TX. It’s gets kinda warm down here. ;-)

[JayCar]

First night of a few hours and almost done removing the front clip. Dumped the coolant and washer fluid, captured refrigerant and disconnected most of the electrical and sensors. It’s amazing how fast it goes.

As per usual, I use ziplocks and label each batch of nuts, screws and bolts. Have to keep it organized some how!

Really looking forward to getting this done already. The additional mod items are good fuel to keep me going through the process.

[MSq5]

First night of a few hours and almost done removing the front clip. Dumped the coolant and washer fluid, captured refrigerant and disconnected most of the electrical and sensors. It’s amazing how fast it goes.

As per usual, I use ziplocks and label each batch of nuts, screws and bolts. Have to keep it organized some how!

Really looking forward to getting this done already. The additional mod items are good fuel to keep me going through the process.

Good progress! Take a good look at your stock catalytic converters while you have the engine out. If one or both were melted, it would be a great time to either go test pipes with or without downstream cats or some form of catted testpipes.

[JayCar]

Good progress! Take a good look at your stock catalytic converters while you have the engine out. If one or both were melted, it would be a great time to either go test pipes with or without downstream cats or some form of catted testpipes.

That’s been on my mind quite a bit. I’ve been pouring over that trying to decide what to do. I won’t go catless. I’ve been done that road before and it sucks. My wife will drive this on occasion too and I want it to be as stock feeling (under normal driving conditions) as normal. Plus I don’t want to deal with the fuel smell in everything.

So it’s either replace the cats with new ones or install downstream. My only concern is readiness checks due to placement. I don’t want to deal with CELs either. So I’m not 100% sure what the best cat solution is.

I talked to Redstar about theirs and longevity and they straight up told me ceramic (oem) are more heat resistant that their metal substrates. Theirs just simply flow better. So maybe I’ll just replace with a fresh set of OEMs.

Im definitely open to discussion on this. Even though it’s probably been beat to death. lol

[cincy boy]

I will be keeping tabs on this thread. I thought our pans had baffles? Not sure those would have helped though.

[MSq5]

That’s been on my mind quite a bit. I’ve been pouring over that trying to decide what to do. I won’t go catless. I’ve been done that road before and it sucks. My wife will drive this on occasion too and I want it to be as stock feeling (under normal driving conditions) as normal. Plus I don’t want to deal with the fuel smell in everything.

So it’s either replace the cats with new ones or install downstream. My only concern is readiness checks due to placement. I don’t want to deal with CELs either. So I’m not 100% sure what the best cat solution is.

I talked to Redstar about theirs and longevity and they straight up told me ceramic (oem) are more heat resistant that their metal substrates. Theirs just simply flow better. So maybe I’ll just replace with a fresh set of OEMs.

Im definitely open to discussion on this. Even though it’s probably been beat to death. lol

OEM cats seem to be a bit over $2,000 each, just for the part. Ouch! I understand you are in a test/readiness state. I'm not, so I have more options. My driver side cat melted and I'm going Red Star Exhaust shielded test pipes. I may install downstream cat for smell at some later point. I just want to eliminate the problem. If I needed testing I'd probably go with their catted testpipes over OEM, but yes, there is failure risk with any cat at stock location.

Given your descriotion of events just prior to the failure, I'd not be surprised if you had melted cats. If so, the back pressure could have contributed to the engine failure. I'm babying mine until the parts get here. Maybe your stock cats will look ok.

Good luck with the transplant.

[JayCar]

OEM cats seem to be a bit over $2,000 each, just for the part. Ouch! I understand you are in a test/readiness state. I'm not, so I have more options. My driver side cat melted and I'm going Red Star Exhaust shielded test pipes. I may install downstream cat for smell at some later point. I just want to eliminate the problem. If I needed testing I'd probably go with their catted testpipes over OEM, but yes, there is failure risk with any cat at stock location.

Given your descriotion of events just prior to the failure, I'd not be surprised if you had melted cats. If so, the back pressure could have contributed to the engine failure. I'm babying mine until the parts get here. Maybe your stock cats will look ok.

Good luck with the transplant.

Yes, TX is an OBD test/readiness check. Quite honestly, I don't mind it as there really are a lot of options to accommodate it, and most aren't power killers either. Out of all the modern cars I've modded (I've had several), this is the first I've had the cat issue with and it's largely due to location and ECU awareness based on it. Redstar w/ heatshield is the other direction I'm leaning. I just wasn't looking forward for $2K but if my stocks are melted I don't have much choice. But like you said, eliminating the issue problem is really the main goal.

With others locating downstream, has there been ready and other issues causing CEL? Is there a solid solution or has it been mostly trial and error? I've done some reading, but haven't delved completely into it since I haven't ran into it yet. It's been research more from a preventative or future failure case.

I will be keeping tabs on this thread. I thought our pans had baffles? Not sure those would have helped though.

I thought so too, but I'm not 100% certain. I'll find out for sure during the tear down and transfer of accessories. I'll post my findings here so we'll know for a certainty.

[RoofRails]

I run RedStar shielded cats in the factory location. I also live in a emissions readiness testing state (MD). They will pass no problem , they sound great and there is no smell. I'm knocking on wood right now but there hasn't been a recorded failure on a SQ/Q5 yet , only like one or 2 on a A6 and a handful more on B8 S4s. So there are no guarantees but if you keep a eye on some very minimal things like your IAT and coolant/oil consumption and don't run crackle tunes or 2 step launch control I would bet you will enjoy them for a very long time. As far as moving the cats downstream and still passing readiness that is a tricky thing. People report all kind of different results and depending on the tune/STG you have you may never see a CEL but also never pass readiness ( talking from experience ). My 034 software will pass readiness on the STG2 file but not on STG2+ yet the STG2+ never throws a CEL which I'm guessing is by design. So moving them down is the safest bet but passing readiness will be on you to figure out.

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[JayCar]

I run RedStar shielded cats in the factory location. I also live in a emissions readiness testing state (MD). They will pass no problem , they sound great and there is no smell. I'm knocking on wood right now but there hasn't been a recorded failure on a SQ/Q5 yet , only like one or 2 on a A6 and a handful more on B8 S4s. So there are no guarantees but if you keep a eye on some very minimal things like your IAT and coolant/oil consumption and don't run crackle tunes or 2 step launch control I would bet you will enjoy them for a very long time. As far as moving the cats downstream and still passing readiness that is a tricky thing. People report all kind of different results and depending on the tune/STG you have you may never see a CEL but also never pass readiness ( talking from experience ). My 034 software will pass readiness on the STG2 file but not on STG2+ yet the STG2+ never throws a CEL which I'm guessing is by design. So moving them down is the safest bet but passing readiness will be on you to figure out.

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Ok, this is good to know. I'm going to examine my cats on the tear down and see how they are, if they're toast, I'll hop on the redstars. Can you tell me exactly what you went with? I'm assuming it's the GESI GEN1 300cpsi 4.5" Catalyst & heat shielding. After this failure and going DP, I'll definitely be keeping a closer eye on things during "spirited runs".

[RoofRails]

Ok, this is good to know. I'm going to examine my cats on the tear down and see how they are, if they're toast, I'll hop on the redstars. Can you tell me exactly what you went with? I'm assuming it's the GESI GEN1 300cpsi 4.5" Catalyst & heat shielding. After this failure and going DP, I'll definitely be keeping a closer eye on things during "spirited runs".

I have the Gen 1 GESI UHO cats. The Gen 2s were brought in to get the B9 3.0T to pass emissions. They weren't a option when I bought my set. The heat shielding is a pricey option but it acts like sound deadening and helps keep the engine bay a little cooler.

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[JayCar]

Made a little more progress this evening. Got the front clip completely removed. I’m pretty surprised how easy it is to remove. Digging into this you really see a lot of the little things they did that make sense. And also the things that irritate the piss out of you when trying to remove clips and hoses.

I went back and labeled (blue tape and a sharpie) some of the connections just in case memory fails me or there’s an “extra” connector left over that I can’t figure out where it goes. :-)

[JayCar]

Did a little more wrench turning this eve. Both the passenger and driver wiring harness branches are disconnected (and labeled!) except for the O2 sensors.

I decided to pull the supercharger so I could get to the connections in the back. When I did I had a little surprise waiting for me in the intake flaps / valves on passenger side.

It appears to be aluminum / magnesium. So, I’m guessing rod or piston. Admittedly I’m a bit perplexed as to how it could have gotten into the intake ports, and only on one bank. The other side is completely clear which tells me it didn’t come from the supercharger, I also turned the supercharger and it’s perfectly fine.

I’m going to pull the head tomorrow or this weekend for triage. I do recall the tap, tap, tap was coming from that side. Another thing I noticed is that all the ports are dry (as they should be) except for #2 (middle cyl on passenger side). That would normally indicate a coolant leak to me, but it’s possible it’s oil and that’s the problem cylinder. Speculation of course until I dig in further.

More to come…








Just checked the images. You can’t really see well into the ports to see the metal in the back. I’ll get some better images tomorrow, but you get the idea. :-)

[hunter_killer]

That metallic powder is from pulling the supercharger on and off those studs. Happened on mine too. Look at your holes on the side of the supercharger and you should see some wear signs from the studs rubbing.


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[Discipulus]

That metallic powder is from pulling the supercharger on and off those studs. Happened on mine too. Look at your holes on the side of the supercharger and you should see some wear signs from the studs rubbing.


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^^^This.
Mine did the same thing, it's nearly impossible to pull the supercharger perfectly straight up without the studs scraping inside the holes which causes some metal shavings to fall down around your upper intake manifold.
I just vacuumed it up and didn't think much of it.

[JayCar]

Oh, not the powder. I'm referring to the bits of metal. LOL As seen in the last photo. There's a chunk in the flap. You can't really see it in the other pics because of the focus, but there are larger pieces in the ports. I'll get some better pics this evening.

[hunter_killer]

Oh, not the powder. I'm referring to the bits of metal. LOL As seen in the last photo. There's a chunk in the flap. You can't really see it in the other pics because of the focus, but there are larger pieces in the ports. I'll get some better pics this evening.

I see it in your last picture now. I didn’t catch it the first time.


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