2019 (B9 Sportback) RS5 Subwoofer - IS OUT OF PHASE from the factory

[evhudsons]

My tiny town doesn't carry a repinning tool, so I just cut the wires on the car side attaching to the sub connector. I can clean it up later with heat shrink once I decide which way I want to go. My Basser box gets here this weekend, so I'll get back here with my thoughts. by the way, I bought the basser box directly from the Polish manufactuer, it was only $87 including shipping to my house in Key West! Everywhere else it was twice the price, plus $99 shipping.

https://www.tme.com/us/en-us/katalog...6%3A1788531%3B

So, my initial response was similar to others on here, a WTF moment, of what is going on, this is Amazing! It doesn't make sense at all for several reasons, one is that the wiring and polarity is correct according to all your research, but the subwoofer becomes a SUBWOOFER when polarity is reversed. I know sound is subjective, and the bottom line is exactly has Bruce Miranda states it, do whatever sounds right to your ears. My take is the polarity reversal is a huge, not small, change in bass sound, and not just a small range. Back in the day I had, still have actually but in my home stereo, a competition sealed ported bandpass box the size of an outdoor freezer, and in order to test it we would run various hz tones. I use base mechanik, which surprisingly is on spotifiy. They only have 3 test tones on there right now, but several "songs" that drop pretty low. If you want to test yourself, play some Bass Mekanik with your stock sub as wired from the factory, then after the polarity switch. There's no question the difference. I think somone at Audi messed up, one department not talking with another. My wife has the 2021 Audi sq7 v8, and her stereo sounds great, I wouldn't touch a thing on hers, the subwoofer on hers sounds like mine after I reversed the polarity. Another weird thing I noticed is that not only do the other drivers sound better, the sound effects of surround and 3d actually work well, and makes a clear difference, although as a purist I don't use them. Previously when I tried the settings I couldn't hear much if and difference, although in my Wife's Audi you could. So I chalked it up to just having an older used car. Before the polarity switch the mids and tweeter were hard to listen to after a while, and of course the sub sucked, so I planned to upgrade the sub first then the other drivers, and the sound effect dials were worthless. After the polarity switch the subwoofer is very satisfying, to the point that many people who don't want bother with upgrades can just leave it after doing the polarity change, and the mids and tweets sound really really good, vocals and musical instruments are clear and easy on the ears. I love bass and already ordered the basser box etc so I'll still add to the system, but now I don't Need to do it.
What is crazy is none of this makes sense, as you all have chimed in. The feed to the subwoofer is out, so it shouldn't change anything regarding the other drivers or the sound effects, not much anyway other than acoustics in the car. I'm thinking the polarity issue may have come from the amp itself, or the processor that we would never be able to see or access. Maybe the noise cancellation mic picks something up, who knows. Because some of you think it's not much different, or that it gives you the upper range of the bass but not the lower range as intended, I'm thinking we may not all have the same issue although we have the same hardware and wiring. In my case, there is no subjective opinion, it's a massive change for the better, all around. I think some of us got the correct setup as intended, and some like me did not. How do I know what Audi intended? It's in my wife's car. I can and have put the Bass Mekanik on her car and it drops great.
I listen mainly to rock, blues, raggae, indy stuff, grunge, jazz of all sorts, and for driving through miami turnpike to southbeach, electronic music, Electronic Swing genre. None of the music sounded great before the polarity switch, now it clearly does. Adding the 10 inch subwoofer is definitely going to help, but for some of you not wanting to upgrade hardware, try reversing the polarity first to see if that is good enough for you! For me it'll never be, I'll be changing the main speakers out over time.
I'm coming from a 2007 Porsche 911 coupe that had a super terrible bose system, so I replaced everything myself, new kenwood head unit, focal k2p speakers, 2 jbl 8" speakers in custom box, and it was great. Subwoofer lacked because of space, but luckily there's more room in the Audi, and the stock system in the Audi is 100x better than the Porsche Bose. The focal speakers were good enough to not really need a subwoofer, but I've always used one to give more clear power to the other drivers.
Anyway, thanks for listening, thanks for all the sharing, the discovery of the polarity issue (genius), and the links, videos, and sound advice.

[ScreamingJumpin]

The day I got my '20 S5 sportback with B&O I told myself how underwhelming the audio sounded. Specifically the lack of bass /punch to the music. I am convinced this issue must be the culprit! I assume they would have reverse wired the sub for the 2020 model as well? I'll give it a shot, seems easy enough.

[evhudsons]

It's a mystery as to why it would be different years, but it's worth a quick check. I've read through this thread again, and in other forums there are similar stories but no one knew this would be a possibility until the op here discovered it. The Bass Mekanik tones were there in spotify, I found them in the queue, and after the polarity switch the sub audibly went down to 35 hz fairly clearly, any lower than that it started to distort. But most music doesn't go that low, and even if it did any 6.5 oem car sub isn't going to cut it. I have speakers at home that certainly go lower than that but it's mainly for my home theater movies.
Side note, in looking through my manual today, I discovered I have a cd/dvd player, and two sd card inputs with ability to load music into the car's onboard 10gb jukebox! Holey Moley, that's awesome! I can move quite a bit of music into the car, uncompressed. Game changer.

[iampraneel]

For those that don’t want to depin or open up the sub to change the wiring, I have the below available as a plug and play option. DM me if you need one.

IMG_2283.JPG

[mashani9]

Hey, I just wanted to mention, the 2021 A5 Sportback I used to have I believe had this issue, but I never got around to trying to fix it. But in the late 2022 built S5 Sportback I just picked up the B&O slams much harder. So perhaps they fixed it, or I just got lucky and they didn't wire it the wrong way? I don't think there are supposed to be actual difference between the A5 and S5 B&O systems right? But the one in my S5 is very different when it comes to how hard the bass hits.

[trentr98]

Just wanted to chime in - I got my cable from iampraneel (super quick shipping and really responsive to all my questions!) and the difference is absolutely insane. 100% recommend all sportback owners doing this


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Audizine Forum

[fellowapeman]

Since sound is so subjective and because I have a calibrated mic that I (sorta) know how to use, out of curiousity (and for science!) I decided to do some RTA measurements of the sub wired stock and then wired with the reversed polarity.

Tests were done with the same measurement mic in the same exact position, all audio effects off, speakers on "All" (or "full" or whatever it's called), Treble, Bass, and Subwoofer dials all set at 12o'clock. When I ran each test, I used a test tone to calibrate the SPL to approx 88dB before running the actual test. The only modification was swapping the wires in the sub wiring harness to modify the polarity.

Here's what I found, with my commentary:

20-20,000hz sweep:



There's clearly a big difference in the musical sub range here between 40-80hz. One could argue this bump being untrue to the music, i.e. it's not flat. Looking at this comparison, you could see why a sound engineer may have picked the stock wiring polarity since it provides a much flatter measured, and probably modeled, response. Sound engineers like flat response curves :)

The polarity of a speaker affects the interactions it has the other speakers in the car. 2 speakers in opposite polarity playing the same tone will cancel eachother out which is typically very bad (there's arguably less of an issue when you have a single subwoofer responsible for just the lower frequencies since it won't interfere with any other speaker... 2 pairs of subs in opposite polarity = very bad). Since a sweep is linear, it doesn't show the whole story. We need to run an RTA (real time analyzer) to see all of the frequencies played at once to get a true idea of the interactions between the reversed-polarity sub and the other speakers, harmonics, resonances, etc etc.

20-20,000hz pink noise (average over 8 samples):



The reversed-poliarty spectrum looks way better than in the sweep and the stock wiring is worse! In fact you can see the stock wiring peaks at around 30hz which is actually inaudbile to the human ear (yes, you can feel it) and is lower than the frequencies used in 99.9% of the music you would listen to. That's a lot of wasted energy for a tiny subwoofer. With the reversed-polarity wiring, the peaks shift between 40-80hz which is almost perfect (mid 50hz is ideal, at least for the music I listen to). You can see that the original huge peak we saw in the reverse-polarity sweep is less dramatic here as well. Probably something to do with the resonances within the cabin... which I didn't bother measuring because it's a lot more work and really, who cares (although I suppose it could clue us in to why there's a huge dip around 230hz... yuck!).

From my own subjective listening, the reversed polarity sounds drastically better. The subwoofer control in the audio settings actually works now! I didn't bother trying, but my guess is the whole left side of the chart, between 20-150hz, can be brought down to be more in-line with the midbass through treble by turning the sub level dial down. With reversed-polarity, listening to music with it at kept at 12o'clock sounded way too bassy to me. Bringing it down to 9o'clock or lower was just about perfect.

In all, I am in agreement with what others have said previously--that it actually sounds like a subwoofer now--and I think the measurements I took confirm what we are all hearing (and that there are no bad interactions when reversing the polarity). I'd definitely recommend everyone do this.

It might be hard to argue that it was a mistake from the factory since we don't know what the modeled data or any of their measurements looked like and in fact, with a sweep, the stock wiring looks better (flatter) than the reversed-wiring. Maybe they just never did a full-spectrum measurement? Who knows.

[evhudsons]

I got my harness from praneel, excellent quality, fits perfectly. Both the sub and amp are delayed in getting here, so I tried to use temporarily an old 8 ohm 10 inch sub that came from my wife's old Yukon before we sold it. I forgot I had it. being switchable 2 or 8 ohm, I switched to 8ohm and put in the basserbox. Before the wiring harness from praneel got here, I used just two of the four wires of the stock subwoofer wires to try it, as I saw on another site that only two were really required. It was way better than stock, running just from the stock amp. I was afraid the stock amp would get hot, but it did not, easy to hand touch even after 20 or so minutes. I had reversed polarity behind the basser box after I installed Praneels harness, and rewired everything stock that I had cut, and the difference spare sub in the basser box was better, but not as profound as reversing polarity to the stock sub. I'm wondering if it's just two of the wires in the stock sub that may have been an issue. I've got everything all put back together so I'm not going to test it, but it made me wonder if the issue of polarity is in one pair of wires, and not all four.

The spare sub I used in the basser box while waiting for the JL's to come in is kind of a crappy infinity sub I had outside under cover for a long time, so I tried to use my old box from my previous Porsche 911 with 2 4 ohm JbL's that I wired series to be seen as an 8om load. That sound simply fantastic, considering I'm using the stock amp.
my JL sub and key amp will be here in a few days, and can't wait to intall it. Quick question though, I see everyone grounding the amp to the chassis, but why not just ground to the battery ground?

Just read apeman's post, he was writing at the same time. That is some great info! I had a similar reaction when my surround, 3d as well as subwoofer dial worked after reversing the polarity. I don't use the surround or 3d, but they didn't do much of anything before the polarity change, clearly worked after it.

sometimes math and graphs ignore the art, which is music, so maybe they didn't actually play music just test tones.

[fellowapeman]

I had reversed polarity behind the basser box after I installed Praneels harness, and rewired everything stock that I had cut, and the difference spare sub in the basser box was better, but not as profound as reversing polarity to the stock sub. I'm wondering if it's just two of the wires in the stock sub that may have been an issue. I've got everything all put back together so I'm not going to test it, but it made me wonder if the issue of polarity is in one pair of wires, and not all four.

The polarity of the amp going to an aftermarket sub shouldn't make a huge difference. If you have one subwoofer, and it's the only speaker responsible for a set of frequencies (let's say 30hz-80hz) then straight-up polarity shouldn't matter. The reality though is that your sub frequencies overlap with with other speakers in your car, ex: your front door midbass. Let's say the midbass run 70-120hz, you now have an overlap between 70-80hz from the sub and the midbass. NOW the polarity would matter as the frequencies from the sub and midbass will cancel out over those 10 hz if they are in opposite polarity. I'm sure there are other interactions that reversing the polarity of the sub has on the sound, like resonances and such.

So that raises the question: why does the sound (subjectively) improve so much when reversing the polarity of the stock sub? My guess is either the porting/design of the sub's enclosure reacts better with the opposute polarity (is this even possible?) and/or the sub's polarity now matches up better with the midbass speakers which together create a better sound. Not entirely convinced about the midbass interaction because the main differences we see between stock and reversed polarity are below the frequency where the front door midbass should be.

Is it possible that changing the phase of the speaker affects how a speaker performs in an enclosure? I should probably look this up on my own :)

Just read apeman's post, he was writing at the same time. That is some great info! I had a similar reaction when my surround, 3d as well as subwoofer dial worked after reversing the polarity. I don't use the surround or 3d, but they didn't do much of anything before the polarity change, clearly worked after it.

I just want to clarify that when I said the "sub dial now works," I was being sarcastic :) The sub dial worked before, but it basically just went "less muddy -> full muddy." NOW it actually feels like it's adjusting the level of the sub bass. I can keep the dial on 2 or 3 clicks and it's the perfect amount of bass for general listening; if i'm listening to some good EDM and want to feel the bass more, I can crank it up to 11 and it adds a level of bass/feel that I would expect.

sometimes math and graphs ignore the art, which is music, so maybe they didn't actually play music just test tones.

I agree! Damned armchair engineers...

[evhudsons]

if you like edm, which I listen to when driving through the miami turnpike and 95 and 836 East to the beaches, then try DI radio, aka digitally imported radio. It's online as well as an app. The free version has commercials but not too bad, the paid version is higher quality but the free one is pretty good. I have the paid version and feel it's worth it. Tons of stuff, great driving music for every mood, my favs are the jazz, electro swing, funky, disco, tropical vibe, etc...and of course old fashion beats. Good change from typical radio playlists.

I'll be happy just to have the right amount of subwoofer to blend with the rest of the speakers. I saw a video of someone who built an awesome speaker box, but it has a huge 12inch and of course takes up some trunk space. At that point I'd replace all the speakers, otherwise imho it's overkill. But as Bruce Miranda says, do what sounds good to your ears.

[evhudsons]

By the way, on a side note but doesn't have anything to do with phase, I just ordered a grill cover from a guy in Ukraine that makes them using cad, and custom does them for a reasonable price. He gave me two options, I chose option two. The JL looks nice enough that being more visible should increase the appeal, yet look classy enough to almost pass as coming from Audi. Maybe. We'll see. I'll post another photo once it's in. He's got an ebay store, but looks like he can do anything you ask him to do.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/LnZtqDoBWeDNATzz8


https://www.ebay.com/str/volodymyrgreenseven

[fellowapeman]

if you like edm, which I listen to when driving through the miami turnpike and 95 and 836 East to the beaches, then try DI radio, aka digitally imported radio.

Oh man that brings me back.... To the days of Winamp, having it play internet radio 24/7 to scrape songs so I could keep them forever. Digitally Imported and SomaFM were tops.

If you like downtempo ambient/house check out one of my favorite stations ever, Groovesalad https://somafm.com/groovesalad/

These days I listen to pretty nearly anything with exception of over-produced pop music.

To bring it back on topic though, if you listen to bassy music, doing the polarity switch is an absolute must.

Also some additional thoughts after listening to more music after the switch: the B&O system sucks ass. The sub polarity makes a huge difference for sub bass, but I'm finding it draws a lot of attention to the rest of the system's deficiencies. The whole range of sound is unbalanced and without a dsp there's no saving it. I'm def going to upgrade the front midsubs, mids, center, and tweeters and have to figure out what to do for a real sub. Though admittedly, when compared to the stock wiring, the stock sub kinda slaps now, for a 6.5"er... It's just so unbalanced with the rest of the system.

[Bobby Kinstle]

I have actually seen a case where an out of phase woofer resulted in stronger bass in room. The simulation models never account for how the speaker interacts with the environment. Yes high end software does but none of us have access to that. Modelling the sound waves in a car environment would be incredibly difficult. The room itself causes all kinds of phase shifting which sometimes gobbles up bass and sometimes amplifies bass, and sometimes does something whacky. This is why many home subwoofers have a phase adjustment dial on them.

[evhudsons]

Thanks for the Groove Salad tip, it's awesome! I messaged them to see if they can create a carplay/android auto compatible app, as I drive hands free.

Many thanks to everyone for the information, I got my JL subwoofer and Kicker key amp installed, and it is fantastic! Quick learning curve is to use the kicker software right away. First I changed the gain with the sub wired as Audi wired it polarity wise, and it sounded really good, but wasn't quite what I thought it would be considering the power it should have, then I reversed polarity, and quickly turned the gain way down, half or more from what it was. I used the tones from kicker downloaded to the sd card and played from the glove compartment sd card input. Then it was easy to get that super clean deep booming bass a subwoofer can create. So although many factors affect the bass, I still feel that Audi reversed somehow for some reason by accident or not, the polarity or something in their processing unit. I played music with the doors open, and closed, same with the windows and the reverse polarity was clearly the winner. I am not a sound engineer by any imagination, but the gain setting was seriously much lower reverse polarity so maybe, well, who knows...... When I first turned it on I copied Janeel's settings from his video, but now my gain is way lower.

I fiddled a bit, and for my ears the best setting was to put everything bass and subwoofer setting at 12 o'clock, volume at 3/4, turn the bass on the kicker amp all the way up, then run the gain and sweep tones and adjustments, then lower the bass dial in the HU way down, to about 9 or 10o'clock, and then the subwoofer dial up or down depending on the music source, genre etc. I feel by turning the bass up at the amp, I can turn the bass down on the HU which takes the bass down a notch on all the other woofers and mids, resulting in my opinion a cleaner sound. One day when I get better speakers for woofers and mids I can adjust the bass in the HU back up. My old focal mids and woofer was so excellent you could almost do away with the subwoofer.

Thanks again, I"m about to drive today from Key West to Jacksonville, and the music situation is now 1000% better!

For anyone wondering whether to do it, yes, and stick with the advice on the forum, specifically get the JL sub 2ohm listed, and the kicker key amp, and basser box, and the don't forget the wiring harness, there are two makers on this forum, one in UK and the other USA.

VRoom Vroom.

[bruce_miranda]

The phase, delay, gain etc are all software settings on the amp. So my guess is using some measurement equipment decisions are made that the engineers think suit a wider use case base. If someone has VCP they could just flip the phase switch for the subwoofer channel.

[evhudsons]

What's a VCP?

[bruce_miranda]

Software.

[c99]

What's a VCP?

http://vcp.pl/

[fellowapeman]

The phase, delay, gain etc are all software settings on the amp. So my guess is using some measurement equipment decisions are made that the engineers think suit a wider use case base. If someone has VCP they could just flip the phase switch for the subwoofer channel.

Sorry for the tangent but, VCP vs VCDS? I didn't even know about VCP. I have an obdEleven but they just increased their subscription cost for features that allow you use it for anything worthwhile to $60/year.... ridiculous. So 2 years of subscription + cost of the adapter is the same price as VCDS which I can use forever and not worry about them continuing to increase the subscription fee.

[evhudsons]

Thanks again for all the help! I found a few things that help, one is to set the sound settings on the source that will have the sweep and gain files. Each source, ie android auto, radio, media etc have the sound settings saved for that input. I found that, in my case, the most pleasing setup is to have treble, bass, subwoofer all set to 12oclock position, all the special surround settings off, the road noise compensation set to off, volume at 3/4 during the test. I used all the sound files for the amp, but in my case the 5hz had the best balance, little distortion but plenty of oomph. 10 was too much, 0 too little. I did the test with the low crossover set about 80hz, the high crossover off or lowest position, the bass all the way up but done before the test, not after. I set the 5hz tone test gain, then the sweep for 5hz, and, ...awesome sound. I did the reverse polarity for both the stock sub and JL subwoofer, and I'm using both. To my ears they both add to each other rather than detract.

The next step is going to install the bass adjustment knob. At first I didn't see the need, but now I do. Depending on the music a quick adjustment with a knob is far better than on the system screen.

My subwoofer grill cover finally came in, and I love it! I saw on this forum someone had put Audi rings on a grill cover and I liked it. There was an ebay store where the guy customizes the grill covers at no extra cost as he uses cad software to design it, then he makes it, powder coats, and it seems he can do just about anything. He's based out of Kyiev Ukraine, and I'm happy to do business with Ukrainians right now especially. It took forever to get from Ukraine to New York, but other than that it was fairly quick. All told about 3 weeks. His website is www.green-seven.com, and he has an ebay store which is where I found him. I looked on his website, and he's already added the Audi rings design to his website, they are the ones he designed for me. I can't recommend him highly enough, it's nice getting real solid metalwork done right, and not some mass market garbage. It's the real deal.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[Bobby Kinstle]

I like that grille

[iReminisce]

This made me hysterical, because I just got an RS 5 yesterday (post coming soon) after owning an S5 Sportback and I remember going through so much trouble and modifying and trial and error trying to get the sound right and splurging so much money. I sound dampened the front doors, replaced the speakers with two different speaker types while making my own custom mount for them to fit in the door. I went through about 4-5 subwoofer setups including putting the 6.75" kicker in the factory sub box and fiddling with that, 2 different amps and eventually landing on the Kicker Key 500.1, swapped an LC2i in and out, so on and so forth. I could never get the sound right until i started from scratch and rewired the front and the sub area.

So I get my RS 5 and I am already planning to go through the same but knowing where to start first. I had already been suffering through the muddy flat sound for a day and decided I couldn't deal with it any longer. I ordered a harness from the legendary Praneel so I could move over my Kicker Key and custom sub box for the trunk spare tire well, and while I have been waiting for the harness to get here, i decided to open the factory sub box in my RS 5 and just swap them around as mentioned. I truthfully, honestly, was not expecting much of anything. But when I turned the car on and the audio came through, I must have burst out laughing so loud that my nextdoor neighbor probably heard it. I was hysterical, shaking my head like WTF. Not only did the 6.75 sub sound A LOT BETTER, but the front floor door speakers actually sounded REALLY GOOD. Well Really good for a factory system. Punchy bass, pretty decent mids and sub bass all around. It sounded just like a factory premium sound system should sound like. I've been listening to it like this for the last day+, as my harness should be here tomorrow, but if anyone is still using the stock system and sub, just go do it. Trust me, its not smoke and mirrors.

I just feel bad for the many Sportback owners out there who don't read forums and have no idea what they are missing out on.

[iampraneel]

This made me hysterical, because I just got an RS 5 yesterday (post coming soon) after owning an S5 Sportback and I remember going through so much trouble and modifying and trial and error trying to get the sound right and splurging so much money. I sound dampened the front doors, replaced the speakers with two different speaker types while making my own custom mount for them to fit in the door. I went through about 4-5 subwoofer setups including putting the 6.75" kicker in the factory sub box and fiddling with that, 2 different amps and eventually landing on the Kicker Key 500.1, swapped an LC2i in and out, so on and so forth. I could never get the sound right until i started from scratch and rewired the front and the sub area.

So I get my RS 5 and I am already planning to go through the same but knowing where to start first. I had already been suffering through the muddy flat sound for a day and decided I couldn't deal with it any longer. I ordered a harness from the legendary Praneel so I could move over my Kicker Key and custom sub box for the trunk spare tire well, and while I have been waiting for the harness to get here, i decided to open the factory sub box in my RS 5 and just swap them around as mentioned. I truthfully, honestly, was not expecting much of anything. But when I turned the car on and the audio came through, I must have burst out laughing so loud that my nextdoor neighbor probably heard it. I was hysterical, shaking my head like WTF. Not only did the 6.75 sub sound A LOT BETTER, but the front floor door speakers actually sounded REALLY GOOD. Well Really good for a factory system. Punchy bass, pretty decent mids and sub bass all around. It sounded just like a factory premium sound system should sound like. I've been listening to it like this for the last day+, as my harness should be here tomorrow, but if anyone is still using the stock system and sub, just go do it. Trust me, its not smoke and mirrors.

I just feel bad for the many Sportback owners out there who don't read forums and have no idea what they are missing out on.

AW is that you? I had the same reaction when I swapped mine during the test and trial.

[iReminisce]

AW is that you? I had the same reaction when I swapped mine during the test and trial.

It is my dude! Excited to start my setup this weekend. The adapter is PERFECT, and going to save me a lot of time and mess. Thanks again man!

[B5I8]

I never messed with the subwoofer phase in my 2019 S5 Sportback however the Kicker Key 500.1 plus Basser Box with JL 10W1V3-2 and the cable from Praneel put a big smile on my face the first time I had a listen.

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk

[iampraneel]

I never messed with the subwoofer phase in my 2019 S5 Sportback however the Kicker Key 500.1 plus Basser Box with JL 10W1V3-2 and the cable from Praneel put a big smile on my face the first time I had a listen.

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk

Thanks for your support bud.

[goofdunk]

Hey Guys, I am a little confused. What is the best way to tell if your subwoofer is wired in correctly versus incorrectly from factory?

[AccordingToAlex]

Hey Guys, I am a little confused. What is the best way to tell if your subwoofer is wired in correctly versus incorrectly from factory?

If you have a Sportback B&O, it's wired incorrectly.

[JohnEnglish]

If you have a Sportback B&O, it's wired incorrectly.

It only seems to be only on some sportbacks. In other threads several sportback owners said that their subs were wired correctly.

[82 Coupe]

ok newbie here
do we need to disconnect the battery first?

[AccordingToAlex]

ok newbie here
do we need to disconnect the battery first?

Negative sir

[goofdunk]

Thank you everyone for your help! How do you know if the change has made a big difference, to be honest I can't hear much auditory difference from before the swap and after the swap.

[iampraneel]

It only seems to be only on some sportbacks. In other threads several sportback owners said that their subs were wired correctly.

As I tested and IMO, I think everyone’s sub is wired correctly(ie wires aren’t crossed, verified doing the battery test). It’s a matter of changing the phase to make the overall B&O system sound better. Everyone I’ve sold a kit to has advised their is wired correctly but when they installed my kit they were blown away how much better the system sounded.

For those who want a kit, I’ve posted this in the classifieds section.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Kit-Sportback

IMG_3687.JPG

IMG_3457.JPG

[82 Coupe]

iampraneel can you give us a brief description how to install it?

[iampraneel]

iampraneel can you give us a brief description how to install it?

The OEM sub is under the spare tire. Once you find it. Here are the steps.

1. Unplug the connector going into the OEM Sub

2. Plug in the connector with the red tab from my harness into the OEM sub.

3. The connector you unplugged from the OEM sub in step 1, you plug that into my harness. The opposite end from the red tab end from step 2.

4. Secure the wires with a zip tie or tape so it doesn’t rattle.

5. Put everything back the way you found it.

6. Enjoy the improved sound.

[JohnEnglish]

Since the 47KEY500.1 is also a LOC, won't it correct for phase?

[82 Coupe]

now i gotta figure out how to unscrew my spare tire. the thing is stuck on there

[JohnEnglish]

now i gotta figure out how to unscrew my spare tire. the thing is stuck on there

There's a big plastic nut you unscrew and then the tire just lifts out.

[82 Coupe]

easier said than done sir.
feels like superglue.
but thanks

[VVG]

Does anyone know why the factory sub has two sets of wires feeding it? Is it a dual voice coil? Can I tap into each set for 2 separate high level inputs into an aftermarket amp for 2 aftermarket subs?