Cam chain tensioner tool broken inside head

[danspach]

Thanks my man. Guess I’d rather discover it now than after she’s back on the road.

Forgot to mention I also installed a replacement fan clutch while I had such easy access. Seems more relaxed to spin while cold so we’ll see if she has more “ICE” and less “jet engine” once back on the road. (Also painted the struts and hardware. Can’t put rusty stuff back on )




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[danspach]

Ok so FCP has told me the Nissens AC condenser is on back order with no ETA.

Do you guys have any recent experience with other brands?


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[ShelbyM3]

https://www.europaparts.com/ac-conde...b3260403g.html

This seems like a really good option, based on what price it was. Europa tends to have a lot of hard-to-source parts these days.


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[danspach]

Thanks Shelby!

Got in touch and they don't have the Behr any more. The web site has been "updated".

They offered Nissens...but for the same price as the Behr unit. ($250)

Not really into spending $80 more for the exact some thing I have so guess I'm going to roll with it an put it back in.

Also collected my selection of copper seal rings from a place nearby. (Metric and Multi-Standard - old school place with every kind of fastener)


Fuel filter and AC condenser later today.

[danspach]

So the cardboard came off the radiator, the bent condenser is in and the fan reinstalled.



It all looked terrible so painted brackets and hardware. I know. I have a problem.



Installed the new smaller copper seal ring against the filter - inside the recess. Seated well. Looked good.


Yeah…..ummm…….learned my lesson and didn’t start the car but just second position on the key to get the pump going and it didn’t take much. Dunno. That fitting looks totally cool, right?!




I haven’t take the back seat out to get a good look (car’s in kind of a tight spot) but I’m guessing this hose originates at the fuel pump outlet on the top of the tank and snakes down into this inlet side on the filter. Anyone done this before to confirm? Going to do the whole hose.

Separate but related: RM European seems to have every hose made by Cohline. Good to know.

I haven’t considered it yet but the outlet side of the filter has a banjo fitting with a 90° swing on it. Anyone know if that’s available?


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[danspach]

Quick question. Does anyone here use 7zap for diagrams? Theirs seem to be muuuuch more comprehensive than anything public-facing from Audi.

Thought about the 60€ subscription but wanted to ask first. I’ve already spent my 1 diagram per day allocation.

Needing a look at this guy:

https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+a6...+cooling+id-2/


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[ShelbyM3]

So the cardboard came off the radiator, the bent condenser is in and the fan reinstalled.



It all looked terrible so painted brackets and hardware. I know. I have a problem.



Installed the new smaller copper seal ring against the filter - inside the recess. Seated well. Looked good.


Yeah…..ummm…….learned my lesson and didn’t start the car but just second position on the key to get the pump going and it didn’t take much. Dunno. That fitting looks totally cool, right?!




I haven’t take the back seat out to get a good look (car’s in kind of a tight spot) but I’m guessing this hose originates at the fuel pump outlet on the top of the tank and snakes down into this inlet side on the filter. Anyone done this before to confirm? Going to do the whole hose.

Separate but related: RM European seems to have every hose made by Cohline. Good to know.

I haven’t considered it yet but the outlet side of the filter has a banjo fitting with a 90° swing on it. Anyone know if that’s available?


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The bad luck continues! Have you tried tapping/hitting the banjo bolt with a hammer to help seat the crush washers and then trying to torque them up just a touch more?


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[ShelbyM3]

Quick question. Does anyone here use 7zap for diagrams? Theirs seem to be muuuuch more comprehensive than anything public-facing from Audi.

Thought about the 60€ subscription but wanted to ask first. I’ve already spent my 1 diagram per day allocation.

Needing a look at this guy:

https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+a6...+cooling+id-2/


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I use 7zap all the time. They’ve slowly added more and more restrictions over the years. I have a really hard time paying for stuff like this.


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[danspach]

Honestly, that fitting is way tighter than it should be already. My Spidey sense says the next time I try and "snug it up", I'm going to do damage to either the filter or the banjo bolt.

Also, when I look at that banjo fitting, I can't say for certain that it's leaking form there but it doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. (as in ZERO) I will also be ordering a new Mann filter (which is what came out of the car) just in case and then I can use the same sized seal rings on both sides of the fitting. I was more concerned about getting the inner ring to seat in that recess while holding it all together and that's the side that stays dry when I clean it off.

I'll measure the ID and OD of that hose and 7zap says it should be 265mm in length which is incredibly helpful to know when everyone sells the Cohline by the meter. New fitting, new hose, new seal rings (again!) and then she'll have clean fuel. That's the plan anyway. We'll see what happens when I break some obscure plastic nipple trying to get the hose out. : )

The detail on 7zap is so much better than on the Audi parts site, it's almost a no-brainer for me, especially as parts are discontinued and web pages lose their support.

[danspach]

For 2003 S6 (USA)


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[Calif_Kid]

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That banjo fitting seems real rusty going inside the rubber tubing, so maybe the banjo line itself is just leaking or maybe it is leaking under the clamp? Maybe you could test it again and just watch to see where the leak is coming from.

On my car (2001 A6 2.7T 6-speed), I had to replace a plastic tee near the coolant reservoir, and I put on a new Oetiker clamp, but had some drips from the fitting, so I added a second Oetiker clamp and no more drips, so I was happy with that. If that banjo fitting is real rusty going under the clamp, would definitely be nice to put on a new fitting, but will be messy.

- Jim

[danspach]

Hi Jim!

Yup…I’ve sort of “decided” it’s the banjo itself. I tried to film it but it’s really tough to get the phone up in there quickly enough after drying it to see the actual source of the leak.

After snapping a few pics, I’m sufficiently concerned that fitting isn’t gonna hold for very long even if I get it to stop welling up so it’s going to be replaced. I’ll also be adding fresh, new fuel hose which will never be a bad thing.

I wasn’t sure how difficult it’d be to find banjo fittings but FCP has them and Belmetric even has them in the same yellow zinc plating.

Think the last question is: to Oetiker or not to Oetiker?

Once I disconnect it, (AFTER I disconnect the battery!) I can snake it out the bottom of the car and measure it.




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[ShelbyM3]

After looking at those pictures more closely I’m in agreement that you should just replace the line.
As far as the Oetiker goes, I’d say use one here. Use a snug fit so your crimp is solid, I bet the banjo fitting is also barbed. I think they sit pretty deep into the hose, as well. If it leaks you’ll know right away and can easily throw a fuel line clamp or worm clamp on it if you so desire, I bet without even removing the crush washers.


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[danspach]

So as luck would have it, FCP sent me a rusty part which gave me occasion to do more research and even though it’s a 14mm banjo fitting, it’s meant for nylon which explains the microscopic ear clamp and the non-barbed end but it was the only 14mm banjo I could find so thought it was right.

Nah.





I was tempted to order up from Belmetric but after shipping, $50 for two banjo fittings just doesn’t sit right with me.

Amazon. FCP maaaaade me do it.










Oetiker (actual Oetiker) clamp assortment was also from Amazon. 300 pieces for $60.


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[danspach]

If anyone sees flaws in my materials or methods pleeease do shout me out. Would happily correct something before threading it into the car.

Hose is rated for 6 bar (87psi) and I’ve read our cars run at 35 to 40 psi.


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[ShelbyM3]

If anyone sees flaws in my materials or methods pleeease do shout me out. Would happily correct something before threading it into the car.

Hose is rated for 6 bar (87psi) and I’ve read our cars run at 35 to 40 psi.


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I think it looks fantastic. Way better than what you had! Would the stainless have been a nice touch, yes, but I think you will be just fine with that piece from Amazon. In all honesty, if you went to an auto parts store looking for something like that, chances are it’s the same product or made in the same factory. It’s not OE, but it’s good enough for at least a decade. I think that’s a worthy solution to be proud of.


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[danspach]

Thank you sir! Clearly the other one wasn’t stainless either!

I was hoping for a yellow zinc coating (it’s all over the bay of the 944 - like jewelry) but even if this is spray painted gold lamé , I’m happy to have something that fits snugly in the hose and has the right OD/ID for the bolt.


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[danspach]

So after more attempts than I’d care to admit, the new hose is in and finally not weeping fuel.

The hose is much shorter than I thought it would have been. I used a thinner hose jammed/gorilla taped into the original and pulled it through to use as a tracer when I took out the old one.

Because I’d used the original as a template and cut it to the exact length I needed to make sure it was taking the same path through the car. Worked really well. I also hit it with some BMW Gummi Pflege which has a grease-like texture and helped keep from getting stuck and also to slide into the v-shaped keeper once and for all.

At the end of the day, I got it to seal by sizing down on the seal ring between the fitting and the bolt. The slightest raised lip in two of the corners wasn’t allowing the original 14x20 ring to seat completely. Went down to 14x18 and looks good.








Interesting that the banjo bolt looked fine but the fitting was completely toasted.


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[ShelbyM3]

Solid work Dave!


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[danspach]

I’m going to do some research but if anyone has any initial thoughts about what’s going on my my trans, it’d be super helpful to hear them.

Original rad was leaking. Nissens installed.

Went to “adjust” the trans oil level to compensate for that lost in the old cooling circuit.

Thought I’d skip the “fill while cold” step (because it wasn’t a full fluid drain) and went to “shift into each range on the transmission for 10 seconds” step. When I moved through the segments on the trans, some unfamiliar stuff was happening.

With the exception of Neutral, at each change (P to R, N to D), the rpm went up, I could feel the abs kicking in and the speedo was showing between 10-20mph. Finally, when I moved it back up to P, it clattered to a halt (like gears clashing). Sounded terrible.

The car is perfectly level. I just did this procedure two months ago with zero problems and drove the car 60 miles before I discovered the original rad was leaking. Nothing has changed but the radiator. Using the same fluid, same procedure (VCDS to read atf temp).

I thought maybe I needed to start from the first step so pulled the plug and a liter+ puked out. Ok, not surprising but then it did the same thing after completing the process again.

I’ll post the video I shot to YouTube but wondering if something in the trans cooler loop is blocked and preventing the atf from making the round trip back?

any ideas?

Thanks all


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[danspach]

https://youtube.com/shorts/q1MvN6k7N...kQO2jmvr5ZybgA

[danspach]

So last night I disconnected the cooler hoses (at the compression fittings, not the rad itself) and after they drained, feathered in some shop air to make sure there aren't any obstructions. All clear.

So for the next move, I'll drain all the fluid (from the drain plug this time) and try it again. Have 6 fresh liters of Ravenol on the way from Blauparts.

It'll also allow me to put a fresh o-ring on the lower trans cooler line (at the rad) which had 1/2 a drip collected under it when I inspected.

Annoying but at least this time I know what I'm getting into and how best to approach it.


In the meantime, if anyone has ideas, I'm all ears.

[danspach]

Just to update the thread for anyone following along, I figured out why my transmission was acting so strange.

It’s a little embarrassing but maybe this will help others if run across the same issue.

When running the trans through the ranges to set the fluid level, the ABS was kicking in, the speedo was acting weird and putting it into P made this terrible ratcheting sound.

Any VCDS trans error codes? Nope.
Any ABS codes? Nope
Vehicle Speed Sensor dirty? Nope.

My wheel was off.

Yup. <sigh>

I’ve had the wheel off because the fender liner was out and there was no set screw to hold the rotor to the hub so when I put the car in gear, the axle was allowed to spin independently of the rotor.

The ABS saw one wheel moving and three stationary and did exactly what it should. Speedo was registering what the one wheel was doing under “zero gravity idle”. 9 mph in “R” and about 20 in “D”.

I’m guessing because the wheel was turning, enough fluid wasn’t allowed into the chambers of the transmission so it was low and causing the ratcheting sound when I put it into P.

All good now.

Except I should have really paid attention to the where wiring harness goes into the transmission. It’s covered in oil, pretty loose and not very confidence inspiring from a “keep the gritty stuff out” standpoint. Well, you can only access the two o-rings with he trans oil pan off.






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[ShelbyM3]

Just to update the thread for anyone following along, I figured out why my transmission was acting so strange.

It’s a little embarrassing but maybe this will help others if run across the same issue.

When running the trans through the ranges to set the fluid level, the ABS was kicking in, the speedo was acting weird and putting it into P made this terrible ratcheting sound.

Any VCDS trans error codes? Nope.
Any ABS codes? Nope
Vehicle Speed Sensor dirty? Nope.

My wheel was off.

Yup. <sigh>

I’ve had the wheel off because the fender liner was out and there was no set screw to hold the rotor to the hub so when I put the car in gear, the axle was allowed to spin independently of the rotor.

The ABS saw one wheel moving and three stationary and did exactly what it should. Speedo was registering what the one wheel was doing under “zero gravity idle”. 9 mph in “R” and about 20 in “D”.

I’m guessing because the wheel was turning, enough fluid wasn’t allowed into the chambers of the transmission so it was low and causing the ratcheting sound when I put it into P.

All good now.

Except I should have really paid attention to the where wiring harness goes into the transmission. It’s covered in oil, pretty loose and not very confidence inspiring from a “keep the gritty stuff out” standpoint. Well, you can only access the two o-rings with he trans oil pan off.






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These things will get the best of us at times. I can humbly admit I similarly had issues torquing my CV axles inner bolts for the very same reason and it took me a good 30 minutes before I realized why I was constantly free spinning. No harm, no foul. You won’t make that mistake again. Learning is hard sometimes Your S6 will be very nice when you are finished with it!


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