Cam chain tensioner tool broken inside head

[ShelbyM3]

Dave, you lucky SOB, hahaha. My heart dropped for you as I read, but I’m glad it all worked out OK. I think we’ve all been there, one way or another, so keep your chin up and thanks for sharing.

I want to find you timing belt tensioner help. There’s gotta be better info out there.

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[danspach]

I want to find you timing belt tensioner help. There’s gotta be better info out there.

So this made me think. Between Blauparts, Audizine, and all of the other sources, I completely neglected the only-sometimes-helpful Bentley.




Thank you yet again, Shelby!

If you ever make it to New York, I owe several beers.


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[ShelbyM3]

So this made me think. Between Blauparts, Audizine, and all of the other sources, I completely neglected the only-sometimes-helpful Bentley.




Thank you yet again, Shelby!

If you ever make it to New York, I owe several beers.


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“Only-sometimes-helpful” isn’t that the truth! So detailed for some things and extremely vague on others.

False! But, I’d gladly take you up on it However, being an Oregonian who’s never been farther East than Idaho, I’m not sure how probable this would be

Glad I was able to help! Let’s get this C5 back on the road so you can dive into that Porsche!


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[danspach]

Managed to get everything cleaned up (valve cover RTV nonsense) and reinstalled.

I debated starting it with the rad pack off and then envisioned the water pump gushing coolant all over my clean front clip and new alternator and decided to button it all up. Everything’s reconnected and waiting for coolant. Gone for a week (hence the productive weekend) but feel good about getting it back together.

If the first fire goes well and measuring blocks look good, dumping a LiquiMoly engine flush in and doing an oil change.

Then transmission filter service/fluids and outer tie rods. (When I did the motor mounts the alignment holes on the subframe were in a different zip code from the ones on the body so figured if she needs an alignment we’ll be proactive and do tie rods.)





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[danspach]

Oh, and the Bentley procedure I snapped above? Definitely NOT for my 4.2 BBD.




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[danspach]

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[danspach]

Sorry. Was meant to be a video.

https://youtube.com/shorts/7wkGcFhaD...jd35Zx-YBJwCkb


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[danspach]

Something is rubbing against the inside of the upper timing cover. The noise goes away when I take it off but not sure how to remedy. I’m going to leave it on and run the engine for a bit to see what kind of abrasions are let behind on the inside. I’m pretty confident I have the right tabs in the right slots to line the covers up but something is touching.

For now, she’s not leaking and no CELs so I’m pretty pleased. Will fire up VCDS tomorrow to check measuring blocks.


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[danspach]

So I think the rubbing sound was maybe the lower timing cover because there’s an a tab on that that’s supposed to fit on the outside of the upper timing cover but maybe wasn’t.

Anyway, it’s gone. The timing covers look good. Started the car and ran VCDS. Idles nicely, nice and quiet.

Got it up to temp and put in two cans of Liquid Moly Engine Flush and ran for 12 minutes. Next up is oil change with CeraTec and LM Lifter Additive.

Checked measuring blocks and below are the results.

My car also told me it was done waiting and closed its own hood. . New strut from FCP arrives tomorrow.







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[danspach]

New oil filter and mixed up a nice cocktail of 1 can Ceratec, 1 can LM Lifter Juice, 7.5 L of Liqui Moly 5w-30.

New hood strut and squirted some AeroKroil down the Bowden cable while it was strapped vertically.

Felt comfortable enough to install the engine covers and this weekend will be a transmission fluid/filter service and tie rod.

I can almost see the end!









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[ShelbyM3]

Coming together! Posi-vibes it was just the timing cover and you’re in the clear. Measuring blocks are reassuring. Love all the Liqui Moly love!

I am curious about that door hanging out in the background, though


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[danspach]

Coming together! Posi-vibes it was just the timing cover and you’re in the clear. Measuring blocks are reassuring. Love all the Liqui Moly love!

I am curious about that door hanging out in the background, though


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Thanks Shelby! Sure felt good to put the engine covers on. Power Steering pump is making a subtle noise but I'm ignoring that for now.

If you have any leftover posi-vibes, the 26 trans-pan bolts have me twitchin'.

Bought an air hammer for the tie rod pinch tie - not looking forward to that either.

Hah...the next project. My wife's 2007 Touareg V8.
Rear Passenger door has RUST on the trailing edge so have to swap the door card and keyless entry gear to that donor shell.

Then it's carbon cleaning time. : (

[ShelbyM3]

Thanks Shelby! Sure felt good to put the engine covers on. Power Steering pump is making a subtle noise but I'm ignoring that for now.

If you have any leftover posi-vibes, the 26 trans-pan bolts have me twitchin'.

Bought an air hammer for the tie rod pinch tie - not looking forward to that either.

Hah...the next project. My wife's 2007 Touareg V8.
Rear Passenger door has RUST on the trailing edge so have to swap the door card and keyless entry gear to that donor shell.

Then it's carbon cleaning time. : (

What’s got you worried with the transmission pan bolts? Give them a spray with penetrating oil and let them soak for a couple days while you do other things. I wouldn’t use power tools on them, though, break them all by hand. I’d be more stressed about the filling procedure!
I’ve never had issues with a tie rod end. Maybe I’m lucky as an Oregonian. Hopefully you won’t either! Maybe having MAP has near will keep the bad juju away. Now the upper control arm pinch bolt, that thing can go to hell! I’ve battled 3 of those suckers! Anti-seize on install after my first experience.

You’re a busy man with a lot of projects on your plate!


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[danspach]

Trans bolts: think I was scarred after I cored a cam cap bolt….and snapping three water pump bolts . Hoping for clean extraction.

Tie rod: I did this completely wrong. Took the bolt out of the top of the tie rod itself and when the pinch bolt didn’t come out clean, instead of sticking with it, I bashed the tie rod end down - seemingly enough to get past the relief cut into it and to really wedge the bolt into the upright. Nice work, Dave. Air Hammer it is.

Yeah, at least you’re smart enough to have three of the same project so you benefit from the economies of scale.


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[danspach]

Tie rods done. Had to cut both bolts in half -for different reasons - but totally effective. Galvanic corrosion on drivers side was insane.

The D-bolt had carved out the flat spot on the knuckle on the passenger side. Thought among the extensive hardware I have in inventory I’d have a bolt that would work but nothing of that thread pitch.

Used the new D-bolt that came with the tie rod using a 16mm open-end to hold it in place on the flats while torquing to 45Nm.

On to trans service.

Have run the engine up to temp 4-5 times now and no leaks and/or noises (aside from the power steering pump whining a bit a super annoying).

Reinstalling the front bumper etc, tonight.











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[danspach]

Occurred to me that with drastically less masking required, now would be a good time to polish “Ole Milky Eye”










About 45 minutes of spray/wipe/repeat to get 20 years of grime off of the batwing.



Got a CEL during one of my engine runs. Minor heart stoppage. Looks like an N80 valve. Ordered.

I’m also getting persistent complaining from my power steering pump which is….well, annoying.

It’s a new pump but (thanks to Rollerton’s work) I’ve tried one from an earlier car (‘99 A6) which is dimensionally identical. I don’t think the pump it’s the problem but not ruling it out yet.

My question is: When your car is running, do you guys see a stream of fluid from the return into the res? Not bubbles but enough to see flow of fluid? Mine seems to just be vibrating - like from the engine running.

The other variable is the return line - not for the c5 S6 off course (NLA) - but another similar vintage that wasn’t quite long enough but has the restrictor built into it. I extended it using a coupler and it fits well on both ends (it’s a larger diameter hose on the cooler end than the reservoir end) but something isn’t right. I can’t imagine this is the issue either as it’s at the end of the run but I’m kinda stumped.

It isn’t a crazy amount of noise but anyone on this board would hear it and be annoyed.


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[danspach]

Bumper is finally back on. More fiddly than I’d expected. Only needed to set the bumper three times. .




Headlight washer hose routing almost tripped me up.



Found a trans oil pan that wasn’t $350 so it’s on the way along with new drain/fill plugs and hardware.

Also couldn’t stand putting rusted belly pan hardware back on the car after cleaning every bit of grime off of the pan itself. Even the new hardware looks terrible after 15k miles so I took matters into my own hands.






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[JTF]

Hey Dave,

Nice work! Regarding the headlight washer hose routing almost 'tripping you up', I had some work done on my car by a local shop and they scratched my bumper, so owned up to it and had it repainted by a body shop down the street, but it turns out I no longer have any headlight washer jets (per another shop I brought it to). I did go back to the original shop and they said I'd need to obviously leave the car with them to take a look... but I really don't like this shop and would almost rather not. Hoping you may have pics of more of that routing and the headlight washer jets themselves?

Thanks,

[danspach]

Amazingly I don’t have any pics of the inside of the bumper. Sorry.

I can tell you the entire system behind the bumper is tied together with Oetiker clamps and the only quick connect is the one on the driver’s side shown in the pic that feeds the system from the washer reservoir.

It originates on the drivers side and then splits to the driver’s side washer and a line which is tucked in a channel across the bumper to the passenger side jet.

When you say you no longer have headlight washer jest, are you saying they’re not working or physically missing?

If the shop removed the bumper to paint, they may have forgotten to plug the headlight washer pump back in at the reservoir. Another possibility is that the hose wasn’t routed correctly and it’s crimped closed or restricted.


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[JTF]

When you say you no longer have headlight washer jets, are you saying they’re not working or physically missing?

If the shop removed the bumper to paint, they may have forgotten to plug the headlight washer pump back in at the reservoir. Another possibility is that the hose wasn’t routed correctly and it’s crimped closed or restricted.

They're not working, and when I asked another shop, they said the jets aren't there/present! Not sure if they had to be removed in order to paint the bumper's exterior? At any rate, I can tell you when I spray my windshield, with the headlights on, the only place I see water is on the windshield. The headlight washer jets don't even 'pop up' from the bumper.

[ShelbyM3]

Looking really good! I love the S6 Avus wheels. Love the extra touches, too, but boy do they add up and suck time.

JTF:




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[JTF]

JTF:

Thank you!

[danspach]

….but boy do they add up and suck time.

Yeah. I was looking for little things to do while the trans pan is on the way but even in a vacuum I definitely have these tendencies.

Also trying to “future proof” the car. Who knows when they might stop making belly pan hardware!

Very excited to drive the car again!


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[danspach]

Transmission oil pan


What are people doing these days? The Bapmic one I bought from FCP which thought would work for the S6 is for an 01V…..not the 01L

<grumble>




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[danspach]

Didn’t see these rubber keepers for the belly pan hardware anywhere so made some. Silicone rubber sheet from Amazon, leather die cutters and a leather punch for the small hole. Very happy with how snugly they fit.







Old, tired, stretched-out one on the left.



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[ShelbyM3]

I can’t find Jack on a transmission pan.

Solid work on the rubber washers! Those little details!


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[danspach]

Well, the fact that you can’t find anything either makes me feel a little less crazy. It’s sad. A trans oil pan? Really?

Once I have it in the air I’ll be able to better assess the condition but didn’t like the chunks that came off when I was prepping the bolts for Aerokroil. Part of me was considering just swapping the fluid and leaving the filter alone but that does t seem right at this point in the project.

Anyway!

Washers! PM me your address and I’ll stamp you three sets for your fleet.


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[danspach]

Transmission service done. Fiddly and annoying…but done. Pan was crusty. Scrape, sand, mask, ZRC, high temp black.

Replaced six bolts that were also crusty. New plugs. Took about 5.5 L. Used the power bleeder with the small ATF hook attachment.





Been looking forward to posting this picture for a while.



Considering I unbolted the subframe and did outer tie rods the alignment wasn’t terrible but I was only driving around the block.

Back in the wild.




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[danspach]

Exec Summary: I think
I need a radiator. Recs appreciated.


Details:

So after running her up to temp in the driveway (idling) 10-12 times over the last week, I’ve sprung a leak.

It’s coolant and seems to be coming from the radiator. Looks like the passenger side end tank. Lower hose is completely dry (I can see it clearly from the top with a good light.

When I shine the same light down between the inner edge of the headlamp and the rad, I can see coolant so fearing it’s a crack in the rad somewhere.

I’ve seen some from Nissens, Action and APDI. Anyone have recent experience with any of these or have an alternative?


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[ShelbyM3]

Can't decide if it's more "death by a thousand cuts" (timing, then alternator, then AC Compressor, then motor mounts, then crank pulley, then torque mount, then fan pulley bearing, then rust on chassis leg, then welding on my engine block?!......) or the "frog sitting in water that doesn't realize it's slowly heating up".

Just taking cut after cut, my guy. Damn! Sorry about your luck.
You could get a pressure tester off Amazon and pressurize the system really quickly to be 100%. I bet you’re probably right, though.

I’ve always had good luck with Nissens, but they’re made in China and my recent heater core purchase was not quite as nice as the one I got back in 2017, for whatever that may be worth to you. FCP warranty would make it a relatively worry-free purchase, in my opinion. EuropaParts also lists the Nissens, but for a higher price and they say they’re out of stock. I feel like Europa usually carries quality parts and I tend to see what they list on their site, relative to say ECS who lists sometimes a bazillion options and is ECS. I’m not their biggest fan.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...tor-4b3121251d


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[danspach]

Thank you my man. Appreciate it as always!

I literally just pulled the trigger on the Nissens …from Rock Auto. $186.

It is a bummer but at this point I kinda refuse to be upset because I’ve come this far and honestly, when I open the hood -even to look for the source of a leak- it still makes me smile how clean and well kept everything is and as I knock each weakness out, the car becomes more and more reliable. In hindsight, of all the things I replaced this probably should have been on the list.

Drove it for about 40 miles and the engine is responding really nicely…bar the pink stuff dripping out of it.


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[ShelbyM3]

Thank you my man. Appreciate it as always!

I literally just pulled the trigger on the Nissens …from Rock Auto. $186.

It is a bummer but at this point I kinda refuse to be upset because I’ve come this far and honestly, when I open the hood -even to look for the source of a leak- it still makes me smile how clean and well kept everything is and as I knock each weakness out, the car becomes more and more reliable. In hindsight, of all the things I replaced this probably should have been on the list.

Drove it for about 40 miles and the engine is responding really nicely…bar the pink stuff dripping out of it.


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I think you’ll be set up nicely. And maybe one more coolant flush after driving her for a bit will be a good thing, haha. Silver lining.

So happy for you to have her back on the road again. Any plans for the future, or just stay stock?


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[danspach]

Silver lining indeed! You know I put that stuff through a coffee filter the last time before I put it back in. It was already brand new.

Honestly, the car runs well and the engine response is great but the suspensions is mush, the wheels need to be balanced or replaced and the headliner is…..


So naturally, the next thing on my list is to install the RS6 (SE) exhaust.




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[ShelbyM3]

Silver lining indeed! You know I put that stuff through a coffee filter the last time before I put it back in. It was already brand new.

Honestly, the car runs well and the engine response is great but the suspensions is mush, the wheels need to be balanced or replaced and the headliner is…..


So naturally, the next thing on my list is to install the RS6 (SE) exhaust.




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Of course it is! Can’t wait for that beautiful sound!


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[danspach]

Considering some of the C5 threads where people doing custom piping (yes, I’m looking at you, Shelby) this question is downright remedial but I have to ask.

When I first start the car (cold engine), I should be able to stop the fan with a rolled up newspaper, correct?

Viscous fluid inside the fan clutch heats up with engine temp, stiffens and engages the clutch and then the fan will spin “at engine speed”. Before that the fan may spin just due to the inertia of the engine but not really driving air flow and can be stopped from spinning by using a newspaper …or a superfluous digit.

This is a video of me testing the new fan clutch (zero miles on it) with a newspaper (only got 10 fingies).


https://youtube.com/shorts/a3QoWDrOa...vrDi8iBpyIoFlD

I have a new one from FCP but want to confirm I’m not missing something.


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[ShelbyM3]

First of all, she sounds so good. Congratulations on all that work that you did. I’m sure it was very stressful, but has really paid off.

You are correct. I’m not sure you have the best angel there for attempting this, though, plus I’d be concerned about cracking the fan blade and having it explode on you at some point, like you mentioned in the video. I’d suggest spinning the fan blade by hand when cold to make sure it free spins, then get the engine up to operating temperature on a short drive making sure the fan should kick on, stop the engine and now try to spin the clutch by hand. If it free spins once warm it’s bad, but if it’s harder than a two-pecker alley cat, you’re good. Saves your fingers and fan blades!


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[danspach]

Thank you sir! I am pleased with the engine work. She revs more quickly with the JHM crank pulley though I haven’t really wailed on it just yet. The only thing that still gives me pause is the power steering system. It’s a new pump, new reservoir and mostly new hoses. Still whining. Like me.

The fan clutch. When the engine is off and cold I can get my hand down there to turn the fan but it never free wheels. It’s kinda like a fresh wheel bearing. You can turn the hub but as soon as you stop applying a force, it stops rotating immediately. To me it’s acting like it’s always engaged but I don’t know how that’s possible with a viscous fluid. I just know when start the car all of those beautiful valve train and intake noises are drowned out by what sounds like a jet engine. Guess I’ll install the new one and see if it’s any different.


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[danspach]

Though it won't change my course of action, thought I'd correct my own mis-information in post #155.

Found a really good, quick video explaining how the viscous coupling actually works.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwM4OqsLek4&t=104s

(maybe the internal valve is stuck open somehow?)

[danspach]

Hi all! Happy 2025! Been a bit so wanted to drop in an update.

Most recent repair was to swap out the radiator which was the only part I hadn’t replaced during the last round. Plastic end tank gave up the ghost after I put the car back on the road for a week. It must have decided it was retired after being in the garage for so long.

The foam around the fan shroud was reduced to dust so I bought what I thought might work dimensionally from Amazon. I completely overestimated how much space there is between the shroud and the rad. Wasn’t even close to compressing so had to get creative (taking it off would have made a total mess.) Test fir the rad in the bottom mounts and then leaned it in at the top and zip tied it in place to compress the foam. Used the indentations to mark where it needed to be carved out. 4-5 test fits and she was good.




Next was the new AC condenser. It wouldn’t hold a vacuum and while there was no obvious oil staining on it I really don’t want to go back in so bought one from FCP. Nissens. Same as the rod but the quality of this piece was, welll….off. Dented on the top edge, paint looked terrible, the sticker fell off and once mounted, I could see relative to the radiator, the whole thing was bent - bowed in toward the engine. Annoyed, I took it off and will have to return it.


Thanks to Shelby, I was reminded there are still plenty of things to do on a C5 so decided to swap in the fuel filter I’ve had in the cabinet for several years. Naturally, the filter Mahle KL-36, didn’t come with any of the for crush washers needed to I was able to source two at a dealer and had two which were dimensionally identical to the ones that came off the car. Nice try, Dave.

While the washers were identical, the filters aren’t. The Mann that came out had a flat matting surface on the inlet side and the Mahle has a recess cut where the seal ring sits. Ring was too big…fuel spraying like champagne on New Year’s Eve.

I’m done chasing parts like that at the dealer and have a Belmetric assortment on the way including what seems to be the 14x18 I need for this filter (14x20 is what came out).


Connected the coolant lines on the rad and then moved onto the trans cooler lines. <sigh>. Top one was easy but the bottom…well, you guys know. I ended up zip tying the trans cooler lines to different AC lines to keep the alignment while I threaded the bolt. Whoof. Miserable but done.



Last repair was to the wiring for the condenser fan…saw it was torn and wires exposed. Hair dryer to soften and then rescue tape to seal and tuck back in its keeper.



Here’s the new filter with the recess cut for the seal ring. Should spotted that on the bench. Live and learn.



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[ShelbyM3]

Looking good! Man, you’re on a bad luck roll right now! Can’t catch a break. Sorry. But, way to keep at it and keep moving forward. New radiator looks so good!


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