Saving a Santorin Avant

Pad was poured just barely deep enough already luckily so didn’t have to go down that route. I don’t ever plan on loading it with something heavy enough to be worried about

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**travis_w** · 11-15-2024 04:52 PM

Why does my quote show 9000 emoji scrips. I didn't even post a emoji.

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**eurogz** · 11-22-2024 09:22 AM

Transmission is pretty much done. Goofed up the rear output shaft seal. Once the new output shaft seal arrives I’ll button up the trans the rest of the way, then I’m dropping subframes and scrubbing down the engine bay. Debating pretty hard about running through the suspension while I have the subframes out, rear bushings are giving me the most annoying squeaking sounds and the shock/spring combo I have isn’t exactly confidence inspiring. Torque factory coilovers are on the Christmas list I think.

01E photo dump:

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**eurogz** · 12-01-2024 08:20 PM

More disassembly. Dropping this by myself sucked, I’m sure raising it back up will be awesome.

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**eurogz** · 01-04-2025 08:33 PM

Took some time with the family for the holidays, trying to get back out in the shop and make some headway. Rear end is stripped down, dropped the fuel tank so I can give the underbody some elbow grease with the steam cleaner and start building the fuel system. Billet diff carrier, sway bar and lower control arms are bolted to the verkline subframe and brake lines are bent. Waiting on some more suspension components to put the rear end back together, then moving to the front end of the car.

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**BaseDrifter** · 01-08-2025 12:36 AM

Looking good! How hard was it to drop the tank? I'm diagnosing what I hope to not be a cracked fuel tank right now...

**eurogz** · 01-08-2025 05:26 AM

Originally Posted by BaseDrifter

Looking good! How hard was it to drop the tank? I'm diagnosing what I hope to not be a cracked fuel tank right now...

Honestly tank itself is easy, it’s everything you need to remove to access the tank that sucks. Entire rear drivetrain and subframe needs to come out first no other way to do it. Certainly would not enjoy doing this on jack stands

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**BaseDrifter** · 01-08-2025 09:45 PM

Originally Posted by eurogz

Honestly tank itself is easy, it’s everything you need to remove to access the tank that sucks. Entire rear drivetrain and subframe needs to come out first no other way to do it. Certainly would not enjoy doing this on jack stands

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Thankfully, it was just the big black nut that holds the fuel pump assembly into the tank, it wasn't tight. Easy fix!

**eurogz** · 01-12-2025 10:38 AM

Dropped 2 Walbro 450’s in the tank, second pump will be triggered with a Hobbs switch. I pulled out the sending unit and cleaned the contacts, desoldered the old wire and replaced it with a piece of insulated 10 gauge wire then verified I was seeing the proper resistance values. Since I’ve owned the car the fuel gauge has been stuck around half a tank. Already replaced the cluster so if this doesn’t give me a working fuel gauge I’ll be annoyed.

Pulled out the old suction jet system. Opted to upgrade instead of delete so picked up Radium’s venturi jet pump and plumbed it to the return side with some 30R10 rated submersible hose. Wasn’t 100% certain which orifice to use but went with the green one with the reasoning that the majority of the time only one pump will be running and I want it moving fuel. Will be logging fuel pressure so if it is still too restrictive under full load it’s easy enough to change out the orifice to a larger one.

At this point I’m done with everything in the tank itself, wiring and plumbing will probably wait until the engine is back in. Tank and subframe will go back up, going to replace rear differential seals and get that back in, then finish up rear suspension assembly so I can move to the front end of the car.

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**travis_w** · 01-12-2025 11:41 AM

Can you share the resistance parameters. My gauge has been stuck at 3rd a tank for a bit.

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**eurogz** · 01-12-2025 11:43 AM

Originally Posted by travis_w

Can you share the resistance parameters. My gauge has been stuck at 3rd a tank for a bit.

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Should see about 40 ohms when full and about 280 ohms when empty

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**travis_w** · 01-12-2025 01:39 PM

Thanks

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**quadruple ring** · 01-15-2025 02:11 PM

Exact setup I put in my avants fuel tank. Sometimes I regret not doing a build thread on it. Would save people figuring out the dual pump avant tank syphon setup. Doing gods work here! Blake advised you? I think I was the first one to order that radium suction jet from him before he added it to the store.

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**eurogz** · 01-15-2025 02:41 PM

Originally Posted by quadruple ring

Exact setup I put in my avants fuel tank. Sometimes I regret not doing a build thread on it. Would save people figuring out the dual pump avant tank syphon setup. Doing gods work here! Blake advised you? I think I was the first one to order that radium suction jet from him before he added it to the store.

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Yep Blake told me about it right after you guys did your car. Green orifice working for you then?

I’m not the first to build a car of this caliber but I do think I’m gonna be the first one to actually freely share information about it lol. I suck at documenting but it’ll be cool to have this build all in one spot start to finish. The amount of info I could only get from talking directly to people that have done it is nuts.

Tank is back up in the car, rear end is next

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**quadruple ring** · 01-15-2025 07:28 PM

Yup, started with the green and fuel pressure has been consistent. No issues

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**BaseDrifter** · 01-15-2025 09:16 PM

Originally Posted by eurogz

I’m not the first to build a car of this caliber but I do think I’m gonna be the first one to actually freely share information about it lol. I suck at documenting but it’ll be cool to have this build all in one spot start to finish. The amount of info I could only get from talking directly to people that have done it is nuts.

It's very much appreciated!

**travis_w** · 01-17-2025 05:41 AM

Sorry if it's posted already, but did you reinstall your valve cover baffles?

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**eurogz** · 01-17-2025 05:56 AM

Originally Posted by travis_w

Sorry if it's posted already, but did you reinstall your valve cover baffles?

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I tried drilling out a spare set of valve covers but was almost impossible without punching through. I ended up just cleaning the shit out of them and praying.

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**travis_w** · 01-17-2025 07:55 AM

I have a set of allroad valve covers that I'm cleaning up for paint, but I did notice some hardened oil in the baffles. I'm deciding rather to leave it or grind the nobs down and remove the baffles to clean but can't see any way to reinstall.

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**eurogz** · 01-17-2025 07:57 AM

Originally Posted by travis_w

I have a set of allroad valve covers that I'm cleaning up for paint, but I did notice some hardened oil in the baffles. I'm deciding rather to leave it or grind the nobs down and remove the baffles to clean but can't see any way to reinstall.

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My plan was drill and then tap for bolts but that will definitely not work. Would either need to tack weld or epoxy them back on I think.

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**travis_w** · 01-17-2025 07:59 AM

Yeah, there's not much material there.

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**craigt1985** · 01-17-2025 10:17 AM

Could you not use new rivets?

**eurogz** · 01-17-2025 08:25 PM

Originally Posted by craigt1985

Could you not use new rivets?

The baffles just sit on staked pins, these are 2.8 valve covers I pulled out of the trash but you can see what I mean, this is after I drilled the pins enough to get the baffles out then tried to see how much depth I had to work with:

In other news subframe is up and bolted in. Coilovers were sitting on the front porch when I got home today (pictures to come later). Gonna finish assembling rear suspension, reseal the rear differential and then I’m pretty much done in the rear.

Front end should be magnitudes easier, arms and bushings are all still in good shape so it will be a straightforward subframe swap and coilover install, several more hours of scrubbing, then I think we’re on to squeezing in the engine and transmission.

Probably forgetting something as I’m working on 15 things at once and it’s too cold out to ever finish a project in one sitting lol

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**MCP** · 01-19-2025 07:34 AM

The fuel set up is really nice man. Amazing work and nice of you to document everything for others!

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**eurogz** · 03-09-2025 12:25 PM

Slow progress:

Right after my coils showed up Brent from Torque Factory hit me up and said they were going to start offering them with spherical bearings in the top hats instead of rubber bushings and asked if I wanted a set at no additional charge, so naturally I took him up on that offer and shipped him the top hats back. Stand up dudes, beyond happy with all of their stuff so far.

Split, cleaned, and resealed the rear differential:

One last mock up before engine comes off the stand for good:

Stripped everything back off, mounted the twin disk and mated the trans:

And now mounting the turbos for real. Exhaust manifolds leave pretty much zero room to get the nuts tightened down on the studs, and even with the high clearance transmission mount brackets I’m using I needed to do some shaping to get enough room for the downpipes

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**ShelbyM3** · 03-09-2025 01:03 PM

Originally Posted by eurogz

Slow progress:

Right after my coils showed up Brent from Torque Factory hit me up and said they were going to start offering them with spherical bearings in the top hats instead of rubber bushings and asked if I wanted a set at no additional charge, so naturally I took him up on that offer and shipped him the top hats back. Stand up dudes, beyond happy with all of their stuff so far.

Split, cleaned, and resealed the rear differential:

One last mock up before engine comes off the stand for good:

Stripped everything back off, mounted the twin disk and mated the trans:

And now mounting the turbos for real. Exhaust manifolds leave pretty much zero room to get the nuts tightened down on the studs, and even with the high clearance transmission mount brackets I’m using I needed to do some shaping to get enough room for the downpipes

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Holy hell, that’s a 5lb bucket with 10lbs of turbo in it! God bless you

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**RMode** · 03-09-2025 01:58 PM

Looking good !

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**CELison** · 03-10-2025 04:32 PM

We doing pulls once you have it dialed?

**eurogz** · 03-10-2025 05:10 PM

Originally Posted by CELison

We doing pulls once you have it dialed?

Haha hell yeah, got a couple good ones lined up.

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**zatch_303** · 03-20-2025 07:10 AM

Originally Posted by CELison

We doing pulls once you have it dialed?

Videos from Mexico when this happens please!

**CELison** · 03-20-2025 09:17 AM

Originally Posted by zatch_303

Videos from Mexico when this happens please!

It's been a while, but I fired up my gopro last summer for the first time in years (vid below). I better lose. Stock motor, upgraded turbos, injectors, ICs, inlets, ect. Pump 93.

**eurogz** · 03-23-2025 12:47 PM

Engine is sitting in the bay (loosely)

Was like wrestling a bear but I’m surprised at how well it fits.

Next up is a bunch of wiring, plumbing the fuel system, and figure out intercooler couplers

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**zatch_303** · 03-30-2025 09:29 AM

Originally Posted by CELison

It's been a while, but I fired up my gopro last summer for the first time in years (vid below). I better lose. Stock motor, upgraded turbos, injectors, ICs, inlets, ect. Pump 93.

Wow that sounds great! I'm sure it is an absolute blast.

**zatch_303** · 03-30-2025 09:31 AM

Originally Posted by eurogz

Engine is sitting in the bay (loosely)

Was like wrestling a bear but I’m surprised at how well it fits.

Next up is a bunch of wiring, plumbing the fuel system, and figure out intercooler couplers

Solid work sir. Fits like a glove! I'm most jelly of the TTE metal throttle body/bipipes and the tubular subframe. I've said it before but I love the purple bits!

**eurogz** · 04-11-2025 08:08 PM

Originally Posted by zatch_303

Solid work sir. Fits like a glove! I'm most jelly of the TTE metal throttle body/bipipes and the tubular subframe. I've said it before but I love the purple bits!

Only real issue I have is the power steering line running to the rack sits directly on the wastegate dumps, kinda concerned about that but really nothing I can do about it. Hoping that since there’s fluid inside the line and the dumps won’t be as hot as the actual downpipes I won’t burn through but something to keep an eye on for sure.

That and front O2’s are now an engine out job lol.

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**eurogz** · 04-11-2025 08:25 PM

Fuel system pretty much complete.

Running Fragola 6000 series ptfe lines, -8 feed up to the rails in parallel, back to an aeromotive a1000 regulator. Mounted a GM flex fuel sensor directly to the return side of the regulator to read ethanol content and fuel temp, and a -6 return line from the sensor back to the tank. Will also have a sensor on the regulator to log fuel pressure. Mounted a Radium 6 micron micro glass fuel filter to the underbody behind the rocker panel. Just need to finish pressure testing my lines and tighten everything back down.

Will be 3D printing a new access panel cover that is bumped out a bit to clear the lines.

Cramming ptfe lines under the manifold was an exercise for sure. I’m not a fan of deleting shit without a good reason so I have the n80, n249, and a tfsi n75 all hidden under the manifold as well. Looks nice and clean from the top (or will once I finish cleaning up all that wiring) but space is super tight underneath.

Twin 450’s are all wired up as well. Wiring runs under the rear seat as it does in the factory setup, but don’t have room for my fused dual relay holder under the seat and I refuse to mount it in the spare tire well. Ran wiring up the drivers side bolster and mounted everything where the CD changer sits. 4 gauge wire from the battery runs to a sealed bus bar then to the relay holder. Grounded everything to the chassis using the mounting bolt for the seat belt. Second pump is triggered off a 15psi Hobbs switch.

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