Battery Charger and tuning

[A4 Centaur]

^ if you flag your teammates with a loaded weapon at the range then go ahead and be a rebel and disregard the sage advice of folks who have had drama with a jacked up battery during a critical piece of work. Buy a small 20 amp charger and do things the right way.

[Mr. Lin]

I just did mine today and the 034 Motorsports tune took about 8m to flash. If you buy the Clore 20 amp charger from Amazon, it makes it super easy. I didn't think I was gonna be able to figure it out, but it's super simple.
Take it out of the box, hook up the terminals to the posts under your hood, plug it in to your wall, it'll turn on and automatically detect your AGM battery and set it for 12v. Pick the 20 amp setting, and click start.

I checked it every now and then and my battery never got close to under 12v. But I wasn't about to risk the tune without it.

[initiala4]

There are reasons why Tuners recommend you to use a battery / power supply while flashing. You can be lucky this time without one, but not sure about the next time. If it fails during flash, and the recovery doesnt work. Most likely you will need a new ecu, get your car towed to the dealer, bring your spare keys to sync the immobilizer, pay the dealer to get the online service to get it sync.

I think its not worth all that just to skip the battery / power supply.

[Jetta03]

Yup. I recently had my car into the dealership for tires. Just tires :). They of course wanted to do a recall (passenger seat sensor wiring) and an engine ecu update/flash which I accepted. The tech managed to brick my ecu which, after attempts to recover and then turnaround time on a replacement ECU cost me a month of downtime at the dealership. They took care of me with a rental and warranty coverage but still, it shouldn't have happened

Don't risk it, use a charger always when flashing.

Just a quick update on my dealer bricked ECU story. Service advisor contacted me to follow-up on my customer experience and we chatted about the ecu issue specifically. It seems this dealership has had about a half dozen or so bricked ECU's with this latest round of flash updates. Unclear as to the cause (hardware/software/human error), but it does sound like the current oem update process is causing some issues.

[John@DEADBEEF_DynoSp]

Just a quick update on my dealer bricked ECU story. Service advisor contacted me to follow-up on my customer experience and we chatted about the ecu issue specifically. It seems this dealership has had about a half dozen or so bricked ECU's with this latest round of flash updates. Unclear as to the cause (hardware/software/human error), but it does sound like the current oem update process is causing some issues.

What year/car is it?

[Jetta03]

What year/car is it?

2019 S4

[John@DEADBEEF_DynoSp]

2019 S4

Interesting. I expect the old ECU could have been bench recovered using aftermarket tools but that would not be on the dealer radar.

We aren't recommending battery chargers on the flasher we've developed for this platform as it takes 2 minutes to do a full flash and 25 seconds to do a calibration flash. We show the battery voltage, capacity, current draw and estimated time remaining in the battery at present current draw.

[Jetta03]

I thought the same, I'm sure the right person with the right equipment could have bench flashed it, but the dealer tech apparently wasn't that person.

[aspensilver]

Bumping an old thread, but is there any difference between using a "battery charger" vs. one that can jump?

I have a Clore Jump N' Carry: https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automot.../dp/B000JFJLP6

Does this do the same job, or should I grab a charger for extra safety? I'm going to own 2 tuned vehicles so it seems worth it to do it right.

[esimp2k]

Trickle charger vs jump starter. Two different things.


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