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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    2001 Nogaro B5 S4 Ownership Log

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    Hello all,

    This thread is a view into the ownership of my Nogaro Blue 2001 B5 S4, from the perspective of an 18 year old. I bought this car out of California, and it arrived in Chicago on October 9th, 2021. While it did have a PPI and some maintenance before it was sent here, I did discover some issues and have had some problems in my first week of ownership. Any advice and wisdom would be greatly appreciated, and I would like this thread to be a reference for other teenagers/people who are considering getting one of their own.

    First I'll put what you probably clicked to see, a beautiful Nogaro Blue S4.





    That's how it sat in California, and how it looked when I found it on Craigslist.

    After much stress and hassle (thanks to my bank) I bought it and one week later it showed up.

    I soon found out the car was a bit of an expensive sh*tbox, more on that later.


    The good:

    The main reason I bought this car is because of the upgrade and maintenance history. It had a lot of major servicing done by the previous owner before it went on the market. Timing belt and water pump replaced, new gaskets and seals, engine mounts, turbos, front hubs, brake rotors and pads, among other things. It also got new front axles and cam seals after I bought it and before it got shipped here.

    Upgrades include 630 cc injectors, RS4 K04 turbos, upgraded charge pipes, 034 Motorsport throttle body boot, 2016 A3 wheels, what I believe are KW coilovers, a sweet pioneer touchscreen head unit, aluminum skid plate, and a Stage 3 SPEC clutch.


    The bad:

    It has a 2016 A3 steering wheel which is quite ugly, hole in drivers seat and tear in passengers seat, some interior trim is a bit dodgy, cracked washer reservoir, and a cracked windshield. The PPI turned up a vibration under hard acceleration over 70 mph, and front axles and engine mounts were recommended to be replaced. I made a mistake and only had the axles done before it came here reasoning the seller had already replaced them, more on that later.


    Here's how the first week of ownership went:


    Saturday Oct. 9:
    I picked up the car in the evening at around 9 pm and took it to get a wash because it was dirty from the transport. After that I drove it straight home as it was not yet registered. Very fun and I was quite excited to finally have my own car, let alone a really cool Audi. Learned very quickly I needed to be cautious on speed bumps and driveways to avoid scraping. Also found out one high beam doesn't work. Car also did not come with a rear view mirror, making parallel parking very interesting.

    Sunday Oct. 10:
    Got the car registered and drove it to the suburbs to hit up a skatepark with my friends, lo and behold I found out that the vibration mentioned in the PPI was still present. Not stoked but the car ran quite well.

    Monday Oct. 11:
    Drove my younger brother to school and found out both the AC and Heater work (Yay!) then drove it to meet up with my friend who owns a mk 4 Volkswagen Jetta, also showed it to a friend who is quite car knowledgeable and they both pointed out the fact that it needs new motor and trans mounts as the shifter moves when the car hits bumps or shifts direction quickly. The tune (or lack therof) also is not the best so that will have to be addressed at a later date.

    Tuesday Oct. 12:
    I had work, and I work very close to where I live so I walked, car sat parked.

    Wednesday Oct. 13:
    Took the car for another trip to the suburbs, but a few blocks after I left my house I was stopped by a cop for a lack of front plate, which was tucked in the windshield instead. No ticket but somehow he did not notice my lack of rear view mirror and very cracked windshield as well. Trip to the suburbs was uneventful, and took it to a shop to get the front wheels balanced ($60) after in an attempt to solve the higher speed shimmy, which made it mildly less severe. I also found out that it had no resonator, no rust, and a brand new front suspension on both sides. I also found out that the previous owner put wheel spacers on because fitment, but failed to get extended lugnuts or a stud conversion kit. Three threads of engagement are what holds each lugnut on to the hubs. That might explain the shimmy. Later in the evening I was driving to meet some of my friends to do a VW/Audi photo shoot when the rear drivers side tire deflated, and it got shredded. Got roadside assistance ($120), but to add to my woes the spacer for that wheel had about 75% of the hub centric ring cracked off as a result. Limped it home, praying a wheel wouldn't fall off. Extended lugs are now on my shopping list. I also managed to source a NOS steering wheel ($140) so I will have a working horn and an airbag in front of my face soon.

    Thursday Oct. 14:
    Was at work and I was scared to drive it so it sat.

    Friday Oct. 15:
    Windshield got replaced by safelite ($260), was quite a quick process and I was surprised they had a windshield on hand for a 20 year old car.
    Attached Images

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings ENV²'s Avatar
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    996 Turbo & 2023 Wrangler (wifemobile)
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    That’s a beautiful car. They are maintanence whores but reward you. It’s like my 996TT. Pretty clean but had some items I had to clear up also. Once you get it sorted you’ll be happy. Enjoy her!


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    01' Porsche 911 Turbo- GT2860R/AWE Headers/UM DVs/Sachs Stage 2.5 Clutch/Recaro Sportster CS/ADV.1/H&R Coilovers -FOR SALE
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    @Driven_Not_Hidden

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings TylerT's Avatar
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    Nice find - I wouldn’t consider it a total shitbox with the items you had listed .. it is a 20 year old car after all.

    Nice 996 - always wanted one!

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings TwoSnelz's Avatar
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    Welcome, treat it well and dont buy cheap parts.

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  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    1966 Honda Dream - 1984 Honda XL600R (628cc)
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    Chicago IL

    Saturday Oct. 16:
    Well, luck wouldn't seem to be on my side, as I was driving the other day I hit a massive dip in the road and bottomed out HARD. The oil pan decided it did not want to do its job anymore. Luckily I immediately pulled over and shut the car off, preventing further damage. I'm hoping that the skid plate and the front jack points took the brunt of it and the oil pan is the only thing that was seriously damaged. USAA towed it to VFC Engineering, an Audi specialty shop in Chicago who does great work, and they were going to do my motor and trans mounts anyways, hopefully it only needs a replacement oil pan. The car will be down for a little while but it is giving me time to get in some parts I need anyways such as an OEM wheel and airbag as well as extended wheel bolts.

    Thank you all for the support and I will continue to update this thread as I go, especially after I get the damage report.

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    1966 Honda Dream - 1984 Honda XL600R (628cc)
    Location
    Chicago IL

    IMG_1115.jpg


    Friday, Oct 22:
    Finally got to see the extent of the damage, and luckily it was just the lower oil pan. While the car was up on the lift I was informed about another quirk of this car: it was a manual swapped car. The bill isn’t pretty either as the larger upgraded turbos make it so they cannot avoid taking the engine out to do motor mounts by dropping the front subframe. Facing a $3k repair bill is giving me many mixed feelings about this car, but it’s what I signed up for I guess. I’m going to hunt around for a quote but I don’t expect this to be cheap by any means. More updates to come.


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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings TylerT's Avatar
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    Not like it matters now but - pretty sure you can validate if the car was auto or manual just by checking the VIN - did you check that prior to sale?

    Also, not sure why larger turbos would make you unable to do motor mounts with the engine in the car .. hell, I did it flat backed in my garage with the core support still on / subframe untouched.
    2001.5 S4 6MT - F21s & E85
    2004 Cayenne Turbo - Beater

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerT View Post
    Not like it matters now but - pretty sure you can validate if the car was auto or manual just by checking the VIN - did you check that prior to sale?

    Also, not sure why larger turbos would make you unable to do motor mounts with the engine in the car .. hell, I did it flat backed in my garage with the core support still on / subframe untouched.
    because many of the larger frame units require modifications to the one bracket for the (left IIRC) mount (or a different bracket). Makes the job a royal PIA.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings belms4's Avatar
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    2000 silver S4, 2001 imola S4, 2002 Avant nogaro RS4 conversion
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    They're only k04s, so should be nothing different from k03s requiring modified brackets for engine mounts. I think he's being fed a load of crap from whatever shop it was taken to and they just don't want to deal with the hassle of trying to replace the mounts without pulling the motor and charging some exorbitant amount. 3k sounds absolutely nuts for replacing motor mounts and oil pan. I've had a clutch, flywheel, motor mounts, and transmission mounts installed for about a third of that when I didn't have the time to do it myself a couple years ago.

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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    I didn't even think to go back and read what they are.

    Agreed, anything K04 framed is no different to do the mounts than anything else. With a lift, it's not a bad job (2 hours for mine, removing the originals)

    If you're paying a shop even with passing familiarity with these cars, I'd think a ~5-6 hour labor cost would be expected.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings wbrunner23's Avatar
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    sounds like the shop is trying to give you an icy mic, icemike.

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    1966 Honda Dream - 1984 Honda XL600R (628cc)
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    Chicago IL

    Yeah, if I had the space to work on this thing and with the sheer amount of knowledge on this site, I could do it. But, time for the weekly update of my shit luck.

    Friday, Oct.29:
    Get a call from the shop that wakes me up at 10 am, only to be told that not only is the lower pan cracked but also the upper pan and oil cooler. This is my crossroads with this car.

    And to those who said the shops charging me way over, welcome to living in Chicago. The only cheaper way is to do it yourself.

    This car has been an amazing learning experience, and that I wouldn’t trade for the world even though it’s been 90% pain. I guess I’m just a sucker for pain, hopefully she’ll return strong and doesn’t give me any more significant issues.

    Thanks for all the support and I’ll update y’all later in the week after it’s fixed.


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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings TylerT's Avatar
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    If you got the money to burn with the shop doing the work .. who cares / have fun with it.

    Once these cars are "sorted", they're fun to abuse .
    2001.5 S4 6MT - F21s & E85
    2004 Cayenne Turbo - Beater

  14. #14
    Senior Member Three Rings Groto's Avatar
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    I'd go with the shop if you have the funds. I'm currently in a similar predicament (no room to take her apart myself), and my family mechanic of 20 years refusing to work on it... Looking forward to the future though, your car is gorgeous!

    Sent from my SM-N970U using Audizine Forum mobile app
    Daily: 2001.5 Audi S4 Sedan 6mt Silver
    The Business: AWE/GIAC Stage 3 | AWE Intercoolers | STaSIS Coilovers | RS4 Clutch | 3" Borla Cat-Back | ASP DTS | JHM Solid Axles | "Piggie" downpipes | Neuspeed SS | AWE Pedals | 710n DVs | M3 Spoiler | SSR Comps

    Loves: Long pulls at night, Slow cruises in the mountains, Throwing money down rabbit holes. <3

    Hates: CELs, Karens, Watching his freshly detailed car get rained on.....

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    2001 Nogaro B5 S4 Ownership Log

    Friday Nov 5:
    Here is the cars current state:
    IMG_1204.jpg
    The lower and upper pan are getting replaced, as well as the transmission mounts. The motor mounts were not an issue, and are actually in good condition. What happened was one of the transmission mount bolts had been sheared in half. I can only assume that it was from the cars previous life as a stage 3 manual car with launch control, all the clutch dropping probably sheared it in half. Trans mounts are getting replaced, and once the stud kit, new tires, and new spacers come in the car should be ready to drive how it’s meant to be driven.

    The OEM steering wheel should be arriving any day now so I can get rid of that fuck ugly 2016 A3 one and also get the airbag light off my dash as well.

    Car should be back sometime in the upcoming week, can’t wait.


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    Last edited by vondrasek; 11-11-2021 at 02:43 PM.

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    1966 Honda Dream - 1984 Honda XL600R (628cc)
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    Chicago IL

    Wednesday Nov 10:
    It’s back! It works! Just waiting on the parts to arrive as well as the shop forgot to put my skid plate back on so there’s that as well. Feels much better to drive.


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  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    1966 Honda Dream - 1984 Honda XL600R (628cc)
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    Sunday Nov 21:
    Just completed an ECS stud conversion kit, which eliminated the high speed wobble, so I’m very happy. Now that I didn’t have to literally worry about driving the wheels off of the thing I took it for a backroads drive and it was amazing. I revved it out, only to find that it went to 8k (it is not built so I’m not doing that again) but it pulls strong and I really like how it drives. Currently looking into an intake and fuel pump, so any suggestions would be welcome.


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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    skip an intake

    fuel pump depends on power goals and fuel

    revving to 8k in gear means it has a flashed ecu of some sort.

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    1966 Honda Dream - 1984 Honda XL600R (628cc)
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    Chicago IL

    In talking to the previous owner it is a stage 1+ tune, and it’s not tuned for what the car has, there’s some midrange breakup before it hits full boost, and after 6-6.5k it falls flat on its face because the fuel system can’t deliver. Intake is mainly just for the noises, but a fuel pump is a necessity. It’s currently on 93, debating switching to e85 but I’d need to know pros and cons first.


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  20. #20
    Senior Member Three Rings Groto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Icemike View Post
    In talking to the previous owner it is a stage 1+ tune, and it’s not tuned for what the car has, there’s some midrange breakup before it hits full boost, and after 6-6.5k it falls flat on its face because the fuel system can’t deliver. Intake is mainly just for the noises, but a fuel pump is a necessity. It’s currently on 93, debating switching to e85 but I’d need to know pros and cons first.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum
    E85 Pros:
    -Really great power.
    -Lower IATs
    - You run Ethanol over Petrol, so I guess a flex?
    Cons:
    -Availability dependent on area.
    - Your fuel economy is officially measured in Smiles Per Gallon now instead of MPG.
    - Most likely will be carrying a big old Ethanol Fuel Can in the back for emergencies.

    Either way, I can't really post much on experience as I also am currently looking into switching to Ethanol. From everything I've read here over the years; if you don't daily the car long distance, then you will most likely end up running Ethanol if it's available in your area. It's just a blast! I've driven my buddies RS6 E85 years ago when he had his and it was insane compared to a pjk04 on 93. I'm sure the others can chime in with actual data though.

    Sent from my SM-N970U using Audizine Forum mobile app
    Daily: 2001.5 Audi S4 Sedan 6mt Silver
    The Business: AWE/GIAC Stage 3 | AWE Intercoolers | STaSIS Coilovers | RS4 Clutch | 3" Borla Cat-Back | ASP DTS | JHM Solid Axles | "Piggie" downpipes | Neuspeed SS | AWE Pedals | 710n DVs | M3 Spoiler | SSR Comps

    Loves: Long pulls at night, Slow cruises in the mountains, Throwing money down rabbit holes. <3

    Hates: CELs, Karens, Watching his freshly detailed car get rained on.....

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings TylerT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Icemike View Post
    In talking to the previous owner it is a stage 1+ tune, and it’s not tuned for what the car has, there’s some midrange breakup before it hits full boost, and after 6-6.5k it falls flat on its face because the fuel system can’t deliver. Intake is mainly just for the noises, but a fuel pump is a necessity. It’s currently on 93, debating switching to e85 but I’d need to know pros and cons first.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum
    For tuners - Blake with ETSpec and/or Brad with German Elite Tuning .. can't go wrong.

    What fuel pump does the car have in it currently?
    2001.5 S4 6MT - F21s & E85
    2004 Cayenne Turbo - Beater

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings TylerT's Avatar
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    I went E85 3 years ago and haven't switched back to 91 ... I don't care about getting 180 miles to a tank .. the extra power is worth it.
    2001.5 S4 6MT - F21s & E85
    2004 Cayenne Turbo - Beater

  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    1966 Honda Dream - 1984 Honda XL600R (628cc)
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    So one of my DVs went bad and I’m going to replace them, any suggestions on which ones to get? Forge seems to be popular but I don’t know if there is a better brand. As for tuning, I know a few people in Chicago who specialize in B5 S4s and do great work, so I’m set on that front. The car is currently on a stock pump and it needs to be replaced, that’s #1 on my list along with the DVs.


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  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    My Garage
    1966 Honda Dream - 1984 Honda XL600R (628cc)
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    Chicago IL

    Also forgot to mention I sourced a 3” catless down and mid pipe setup so that should be in sometime in the next month or so. Want to get that before the tune for obvious reasons.


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  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings AudiAR01's Avatar
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    If it has stock injectors and stock fuel pump. I wouldn't go e85. It takes more fuel with e85 than it does pump. If you want more power and a good tune. At minimum on pump I'd get at least 550cc injectors. And don't buy cheap injectors like from eBay. Bc the idle will nvr be right. And they're not flow matched. If you're gonna run E. I'd get at least 1000cc injectors. Maybe even 865cc injectors. And upgrade your FPR. Preferably to an adjustable one.

    2003 A6 2.7T 6spd Stage 1+ (motor pulled for stage 3+ upgrades)

    2001 Allroad TIP Stage 1
    2006 A3 2.0T 6spd Stage 1

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings belms4's Avatar
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    2000 silver S4, 2001 imola S4, 2002 Avant nogaro RS4 conversion
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    100% will need injectors with higher flow rate for e85. Funny enough I've heard of people running a k04 build on e85 with stock fuel pump. May not be returning much/any fuel under full load to the tank on the recycle, but I have heard it's possible, so you might be surprised. Just probably need to cycle a tank of gasoline through after every couple tanks of e85 to keep things lubricated a bit... or just throw a walbro meant for e85 in and don't worry about it.

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  27. #27
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    1966 Honda Dream - 1984 Honda XL600R (628cc)
    Location
    Chicago IL

    It’s already got 630cc injectors so I’m alright in that department if I stay 93 for now. Current top necessities for the car are DVs, rear diff mounts to hopefully eliminate the clunk, and the fuel pump to keep it going on the top end.

    I’m also going to do a boost leak test soon just to make sure it’s 100%


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  28. #28
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    1966 Honda Dream - 1984 Honda XL600R (628cc)
    Location
    Chicago IL

    Another question that I have for everyone is regarding intercoolers. My car still has the stock side mounts, so I need to upgrade them to finish the stage 3. Is side mount or a front mount intercooler better? Living in chicago I don’t want to delete my heating or AC and I’m not sure if you have to do that with a front mount


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  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings wbrunner23's Avatar
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  30. #30
    Veteran Member Three Rings harryn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Icemike View Post
    It’s already got 630cc injectors so I’m alright in that department if I stay 93 for now. Current top necessities for the car are DVs, rear diff mounts to hopefully eliminate the clunk, and the fuel pump to keep it going on the top end.

    I’m also going to do a boost leak test soon just to make sure it’s 100%


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum
    For DV's, I'd recommend the 034 Motorsports Chinese version. My car has the cheapo Amazon Chinese ones, and they've been rebuilt like 8 times now. I'm going to replace them before my Stage 2 tune next spring. Here's the link:

    https://store.034motorsport.com/034m...2-7t-4-2t.html
    (NOTE: SOLD INDIVIDUALLY - You will need to order two in one order)

    I'd recommend the rebuild kit with the DVs:

    https://store.034motorsport.com/rebu...2-7t-4-2t.html
    (NOTE: ONE set of O-rings per DV - You will need to order two in one order)

    As far as SMICs or FMICs, depends how much power you're going for. If this is your first S4, work on making it reliable and finish fixing whatever the PO did not. Then take it to the track a few times to really learn the limits of your car. The car doesn't need much to be competitive or fun, TBH. FMICs will require hacking your front bumper. It's one of those things that once you go FMIC, you're stuck. Unless you can find a decent front bumper replacement which is becoming harder to find now. And no, you won't have to delete your heating or A/C that I'm aware of. You will have to do some hacking on the core support for the SRM SMICs. The Wagner Tuning (while they're still available) require no mods. I saw XS-Power also makes SMICs as well, but no info on them. Both are upgrades over the stock SMICs. FMICs, you have a lot of options.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    2021 Audi A4 S-Line Premium Plus
    2000 Audi S4 6MT
    1995 BMW M3 5MT

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    The Wagner ones require trimming as well, as any side mount does, to varying degrees. They provide the template. I highly suggest sticking with fresh, rubber hoses, and not silicone (unless you do Samco, which seem the most robust). I've now replaced most of my silicone setup with genuine Audi ones.

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Three Rings harryn's Avatar
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    2021 Audi A4, 2000 Audi S4, 1995 BMW M3
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    Quote Originally Posted by RMode View Post
    The Wagner ones require trimming as well, as any side mount does, to varying degrees. They provide the template. I highly suggest sticking with fresh, rubber hoses, and not silicone (unless you do Samco, which seem the most robust). I've now replaced most of my silicone setup with genuine Audi ones.
    That's not what Edwin at 034 Motorsports told me. He said the Wagner SMICs were plug and play. I take it you have the Wagner SMICs?

    I disagree about the SAMCO silicone hoses being the only option. The 034 ones have been pretty solid and still look new on my car. The throttle body boot needs to be trimmed a bit. Both SAMCO and 034's version of Silicone Hoses. But I definitely agree to replace the old rubber hoses like the power steering pump L shaped hose with a new hose (OEM Rubber is best). Coolant hoses, definitely go OEM for those as well, if the hoses are feeling a bit gummy. And definitely the oil line hoses with OEM. But the forced air induction system, haven't seen/had anything bad with the 034 Silicone hoses.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    2021 Audi A4 S-Line Premium Plus
    2000 Audi S4 6MT
    1995 BMW M3 5MT

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by harryn View Post
    That's not what Edwin at 034 Motorsports told me. He said the Wagner SMICs were plug and play. I take it you have the Wagner SMICs?

    I disagree about the SAMCO silicone hoses being the only option. The 034 ones have been pretty solid and still look new on my car. The throttle body boot needs to be trimmed a bit. Both SAMCO and 034's version of Silicone Hoses. But I definitely agree to replace the old rubber hoses like the power steering pump L shaped hose with a new hose (OEM Rubber is best). Coolant hoses, definitely go OEM for those as well, if the hoses are feeling a bit gummy. And definitely the oil line hoses with OEM. But the forced air induction system, haven't seen/had anything bad with the 034 Silicone hoses.
    Yep, I have the Wagner on my car, and can attest to them needing trimming and coming with a template specifically outlining where to trim. They just went in ~ 6 months ago.

    I've torn 1 034 hose (lobster, at the DV valve, driver side), and a second kept slipping regardless of what clamp (IC to APR bi pipe, passenger side). After asking around, I wasn't the only one with that issue. Got a pair of brand new lobsters from Audi, OEM clamps, and a good, used IC hose, with Turbosmart clamps for all upper IC connections as a precaution (underpanel was on, as it's a bit of a chore to remove, so the upper hoses are easy to access once headlights are out). Next time the bumper comes off, the rest of the 034 hoses will come off too, as I don't want to deal with them down the road either.

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings wbrunner23's Avatar
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    1955 Johnson QD-16
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    Quote Originally Posted by harryn View Post
    I saw XS-Power also makes SMICs as well, but no info on them. Both are upgrades over the stock SMICs.
    There is info on them. They are worse than stock. <-- that's a period right there. XS/SSAC is garbage. They only passable product they make is their downpipes, and only because it's cheap.

    I also don't think I agree with your DV recommendation, but to each his own. 034 is garbage. The only passable product they make is their rear sway bar. They have a CNC machine so make some interesting and good looking parts, but attach sub-par components to their billet components (i.e. bottom barrel aurora ends on their suspension arms). I fell for the 034 tricks early on too - I refuse to buy from them anymore.

  35. #35
    Veteran Member Four Rings wbrunner23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by harryn View Post
    That's not what Edwin at 034 Motorsports told me.
    Not surprised.

  36. #36
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    Oct 22 2020
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    1966 Honda Dream - 1984 Honda XL600R (628cc)
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    Well this is a lot more info than I was expecting but thanks, and I actually have Samco hoses for all the turbo/IC plumbing. The previous owner really put the PO in POS when it came to disclosing issues and condition but it’s gonna get better little by little.

    I just got covid so the car will sit til after Christmas most likely and then work can start on really going through it and fixing it or cleaning up what was done wrong.


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  37. #37
    Veteran Member Three Rings harryn's Avatar
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    2021 Audi A4, 2000 Audi S4, 1995 BMW M3
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbrunner23 View Post
    There is info on them. They are worse than stock. <-- that's a period right there. XS/SSAC is garbage. They only passable product they make is their downpipes, and only because it's cheap.

    I also don't think I agree with your DV recommendation, but to each his own. 034 is garbage. The only passable product they make is their rear sway bar. They have a CNC machine so make some interesting and good looking parts, but attach sub-par components to their billet components (i.e. bottom barrel aurora ends on their suspension arms). I fell for the 034 tricks early on too - I refuse to buy from them anymore.
    Well, what are your alternatives? I mean it's easy to rip on products, but alternatives would be appreciated, for myself as well. I haven't had any issues with their products, and it's why I am recommending them to the OP and trying to be helpful.

    Concerning XS-Power, I figure their downpipes are bought by nearly everyone here (hence why I am looking at their products), but when it comes to alternatives, I usually hear "Oh wait until X product is available in the B5 classifieds." Well, my issue is I have an exhaust leak, and my OEM exhaust is nearing its end of life. Sometimes people can wait, sometimes they can't.

    If there are better products, and still available for purchase, share away. Right now I am looking at the Techtonics Tuning Turboback Exhaust system with Borla muffler. Is that decent or is that garbage too?
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  38. #38
    Veteran Member Four Rings belms4's Avatar
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    Apr 17 2019
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    2000 silver S4, 2001 imola S4, 2002 Avant nogaro RS4 conversion
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    Denver, CO

    Oem 710n or 710p for dv's and call it a day unless you like spending extra for shiny shit. Nothing more needed for a k04 build.

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  39. #39
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    Borla’s exhaust is great bang for the buck. Can sometimes save some through summit, jegs, etc. Techtonucs uses a Borla muffler iirc, but they have been around the VAG scene since forever. Can’t go wrong either way imho.

    DV’s, 710n are great. I have been using the P, version, which are still Bosch made, but they are now on their way out (honking noise). I have a couple sets of fancier piston valves that I’ll try shortly. Ones an old classic set (Bailey) that has been used on S4’s since the first person start modding their car., The other is used in the higher power Porsche world (Evoms). Easy to change and try ‘em both which is what I’ll do. I have a third piston set floating around someplace too that I’ll have to dig up (FVD) maybe at some point. I am not expecting much if any differences among any of them.

    Don’t stress over the DV. Its a super basic thing. Lots of people have used lots of things and been fine.

  40. #40
    Established Member Two Rings vondrasek's Avatar
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    Oct 22 2020
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    1966 Honda Dream - 1984 Honda XL600R (628cc)
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    Chicago IL

    More fun news, my intake popped off on the highway and sent me into limp mode. Rough idle, epc, abs, check engine, and esp lights all on. Scanned for codes and got a G187 code, any suggestions on how to fix?


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