2001 Nogaro B5 S4 Ownership Log

[vondrasek]

Update: Apparently disconnecting the battery for a little while to reset the computer solves the problem. Hopefully this issue does not reoccur.


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[belms4]

Update: Apparently disconnecting the battery for a little while to reset the computer solves the problem. Hopefully this issue does not reoccur.


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Yeah that's sometimes one way to clear that stuff if you don't have a code reader to do that. Not sure what part of the intake you're saying popped off but guessing it was around the throttle body boot and pulled some wiring with. Just make sure your map sensor plug and plug to throttle body are in tight and no wiring got damaged or looks old and frayed.

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[vondrasek]

I’m not necessarily sure what exactly caused it to act weird, but my come filter popped off when it happened. Cars fine now, acting normal again.


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[vondrasek]

On another note:
IMG_1510.jpg
New drivers side window regulator is in! One more thing to make the car feel better.

Also just ordered Apikol’s red front diff mount and rear diff carrier bushings. Hoping this gets rid of the juddering starts and clunky shifts/on-off throttle clunk.


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[vondrasek]

Apikol mounts have arrived, going in Wednesday.

On another note I figured out that cruise control can make my usually bad (16.4 mpg) fuel economy a little better, so far for it up to 17.9


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[Joel_S4]

Please report back if the Apikol mount fixes your drivetrain clunk or not. I'm curious to know as I have a similar clunk.

[vondrasek]

Before:
IMG_1564.jpg

After:
IMG_1563.jpg

The Apikol mounts work great and have fully eliminated the clunk. I’m now able to shift it much faster, get on/off throttle without clunk, and much less shuddering (still has stock engine mounts) when slipping the clutch. I went for the red mounts because I just don’t want em to break and they aren’t too harsh at all. I can feel a small amount more of the road noise and vibration due to the stiffer mounts but it’s very minimal.

On the plus side I discovered the source of my main oil leak. When my car went in for the oil pan fix they didn’t put the part the oil filter attaches to back on correctly. It’s slightly unseated so it’s leaking a bit.

Next on my to do list is a new steering wheel so I can have a horn plus a working airbag in front of my face, as well as the drivers door interior latch cable.

I’ll update as it progresses


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[vondrasek]

Today I finished installing the new 710N diverter valves and all the turbo flutter and noises have gone away. Slowly it’s getting better. It’s been snowing here in Chicago, so I’ve been having some fun sliding it around, it’s a riot.

It’s Quattro season baby!


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[vondrasek]

Update: more shit broke

Not only did the diverter valves break within a week, I also found out both my rear wheel bearings are bad and need replacement. I’m gonna order quality DVs and also fix the wheel bearing issue.


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[RMode]

How did they break?

[belms4]

I'd be interested how 710n valves broke in a week too. Which orientation do you install? And both of them at the same time? Return them as defective, they should last you years in a k04 car.

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[vondrasek]

Wheel bearing issue is fixed and it was quite a job. Learned a lot.

I don’t know how the DVs broke but they were super cheap ones so I’m not really surprised.


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[vondrasek]

Attempting to pop in a walbro 450 today, my fuel pump died out on Friday.


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[R490]

Were they genuine Kayser 710N diverter valves? Mine have been on the car for 70,000 miles without breaking.

Have you tested the springs?

[vondrasek]

They were not the genuine ones so I’m not surprised but even then it was just a couple days til they broke. I’m just gonna get forge ones and have peace of mind.


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[vondrasek]

After a genuinely frustrating process, the Walbro 450 is in.

IMG_2053.jpg

I used screws in the sides to center and clamp the pump in and used bailing wire to further secure it. I put a brand new 20 amp fuse, replacing the 30 amp which was there. It ran well this morning and at lunch I swapped it back to a 30 amp fuse. It feels and sounds much healthier.


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[RMode]

did you hardwire the pump? Highly suggested with those and they pull quite a bit of current, and they won't flow what they should without it

IIRC people run a dedicated inline fuse to the wiring they set up (not factory)

[belms4]

I think the walbro450 can get away with stock wiring, but something like this setup would definitely be best hardwired to it where it contains the in-line fuse and new relay:

https://etspec.com/JAE-Fuel-Pump-Rew...6-Allroad-2.7T

https://jaeinnovations.com/collectio...ump-rewire-kit

OP: There are brackets available that fit that pump in the basket. Just letting you know, I know you probably won't be pulling it back out since you've already got it figured out. Nothing like some creativity though!

[RMode]

https://www.maperformance.com/blogs/...uel-pump-guide

is an interesting read

and

https://www.realstreetperformance.co...t-performance/

So at full typically boost (lets say low 20 psi) you're already at right around 19amp draw, stock fuse (and wiring) is only rated to 20. Tossing a 30 amp will let the car run, but the wiring was not designed for another 10 amp draw through it. having it's own fuse and relay is really the best and safest bet, and let's the pump be consistent regardless of boost or temperature fluctuations

[CELison]

You want to run your own power to the pump. I've seen 2 melt the connectors on the pump lid. It's super cheap and easy. I used 10 gauge wire from the battery to a relay. Then marine 10 gauge through the lid with grommets to the pump. You'll need to just fuse it. I used an Eaton industrial type fuse. Maybe all in $70 worth of stuff.

[vondrasek]

Thanks for all the advice, I did this out of necessity cause the stock one failed so I didn’t have time to get proper parts I just had to fix it. My friend has a 480 or so whp B5 s4 he’s had for a few years as well and I just copied his setup. It works well for right now.


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[vondrasek]

I also bought C5 RS6 9 spokes off a friend and I’m wondering if anyone knows what spacing if any is needed and what tire specs/accommodations need to be done.


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[vondrasek]

Spot the two things that are wrong:
IMG_2638.jpg


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[vondrasek]

I also found out that one of my cam chain tensioners is bad today so that’s also a wonderful surprise


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[vondrasek]

Current status:IMG_2748.jpg


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[RMode]

I think the walbro450 can get away with stock wiring, but something like this setup would definitely be best hardwired to it where it contains the in-line fuse and new relay:

https://etspec.com/JAE-Fuel-Pump-Rew...6-Allroad-2.7T

https://jaeinnovations.com/collectio...ump-rewire-kit

OP: There are brackets available that fit that pump in the basket. Just letting you know, I know you probably won't be pulling it back out since you've already got it figured out. Nothing like some creativity though!

Any Walbro needs it's own relay and wiring. Much more current draw than stock

[vondrasek]

Sorry for the lack of posts, I’ve just been very busy.

Here’s the status update:
image-2022-07-17-16:54:51-806.jpg
I have new Wagner intercoolers and XS power 3” catless DPs and an 034 snub mount otw because my old one was shot.

I’m currently in the middle of putting the new tensioner on for the drivers side, and I have the kit for both.

The frame was already cleared a bit for larger intercoolers (car was allegedly full stage 3 then blown up and swapped) which is nice.

On a not so nice note I just got an emissions test summons so the DPs and tune are gonna have to wait.


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[vondrasek]

image-2022-07-18-22:30:07-802.jpg
So I’ve finished up the driver’s side except for torquing to spec (also to use or not to use blue loctite?) and managed to time it properly.

Cams are currently out on the passenger side, and am currently marking the pre disassembly cam chain/sprocket marks onto the new chain.
image-2022-07-18-22:35:22-417.jpg
Markings are in silver

Time to clean the head up a bit then reassemble this side.


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[andybnwc]

Think I got about this point then gave up and put it up for sale 😂 never ending but well worth it if you have the money

[vondrasek]

I’m gonna be transparent, I’m a 19 year old making at best 22 an hour (part of job is comission) and working 40-42hr a week.

It’s been very financially straining at times (covid job cut) but I know I’ll never really stumble into another rare car like this again.

I’d rather put the money in this car cause let’s be real you’re never really in the green selling an Audi.

Working on this car is giving me knowledge of the platform that I want to tinker with and push. I partly did the job myself out of necessity but also because I wanted to learn.

I’m not saying you’re doubting me but for anyone who looks at this thread wondering what owning a B5 S4 is like as a teen or just in general that’s it.


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[CELison]

I’m gonna be transparent, I’m a 19 year old making at best 22 an hour (part of job is comission) and working 40-42hr a week.

It’s been very financially straining at times (covid job cut) but I know I’ll never really stumble into another rare car like this again.

I’d rather put the money in this car cause let’s be real you’re never really in the green selling an Audi.

Working on this car is giving me knowledge of the platform that I want to tinker with and push. I partly did the job myself out of necessity but also because I wanted to learn.

I’m not saying you’re doubting me but for anyone who looks at this thread wondering what owning a B5 S4 is like as a teen or just in general that’s it.


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I got mine around your age too and it was a struggle to keep it on the road. Like you, it taught me how to work on cars, and I've met so many people bc of it. That being said, it's caused a ton of stress when it was my only car, and it's much less strain now that it's just a toy and I'm in a position where I can afford to spend a good bit of money on it without it effecting any other part of my life. You'll get there. And no blue loctite.

[vondrasek]

Thanks, the motor looks like this right now:
image-2022-07-20-23:19:31-465.jpg
Drivers side is done and I’m about to do the passenger side.

I know it’ll be worth it when I can feel the K04s hit again


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[vondrasek]

image-2022-07-25-22:52:25-138.jpg
Cams and tensioners back in and all timed up.

Time to turn it over to see if I did it all correct.


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[vondrasek]

image-2022-07-30-23:19:48-976.jpg
DIY’d a new spider hose, the old one was super brittle and cracking.


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[vondrasek]

image-2022-07-30-23:19:48-976.jpg
DIY’d a new spider hose, the old one was super brittle and cracking.


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[vondrasek]

image-2022-08-02-22:15:34-797.jpg
Passenger side Wagner intercooler is in, just need to trim fenders to fit them properly.

Intake manifold, all fuel/vac lines, and 90% of the boost piping is in.

Coolant lines and redoing a sensor lead that broke - brittle wires - is pretty much all that remain to be done motor wise before starting.


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[vondrasek]

image-2022-08-07-12:31:31-102.jpg
Oh boy…


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[hunter_killer]

One of the best feelings to have is a project start back up after a long session and it go smoothly!


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[SoundEfx]

Congrats man. I need your dedication.

[Kelvinben5087]

I'd go with the shop if you have the funds. I'm currently in a similar predicament (no room to take her apart myself), and my family mechanic of 20 years refusing to work on it...


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