belms4's Silver Auto Avant Conversion to Noggy 6 spd Widebody Build Thread

[bakedziti]

I don’t have any experience, but I’ve been considering refinishing my rust free front subframe with bedliner prior to the engine going back in on my B5 project. I can’t think of a reason why it shouldn’t hold up, even with our respective winter roads.

[RMode]

Cerakote may be a good option

[avant1987]

Cerakote may be a good option

Second the cerakote suggestion!


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[belms4]

Man I totally forgot about Cerakote! That would be a great idea, I'll have to look into it and see who around town can do that coating. Thanks!

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[belms4]

Well I talked to a local shop today that does both powder coating and Cerakote. For a subframe they recommended powder coating and said the Cerakote would be better for a part that's taking high heat. Makes sense, that's typically where I see Cerakote advertised. They said powder coating would be more durable for a subframe. Once I'm at the coating shop dropping it off I'll ask some questions and see what they think about coating over the powder coat or if they think the powder coat alone will last long term here in the Denver area. We're not a desert here but nowhere near the rust and corrosion you see on east coast cars.

[belms4]

Alright, been a bit longer than usual since my last update. A lot going on this summer! New job started at end of June and tons of summer projects while I try to fit this build in there a few days a week. Good news is for the past 3 weekends in a row I've been painting!! Maybe 2 more sessions left in my booth (version 2) and then all that will be left is painting the chassis and some work on the front bumper. Painting the chassis will be in 2 stages. Stage 1 probably doing engine bay and wheel wells, area beneath rear bumper and quarter panels, anything else hidden away not too visible where I can find a seam so I don't need to blend areas together. Stage 2 of the chassis will be roof, rear quarter panels, door jambs, windshield frame and anything else leftover.

To date I've got the 2 front fenders painted, hood, rear bumper, 2 doors (though I've sprayed 3, I'm respraying 1 again since the basecoat got screwed up), trunk hatch, roof spoiler, plus lots of brackets and door handles I did in one of my previous updates so I couldn't mess up anything too big in my learning curve. Happy to say the panels I've painted so far are all looking amazing and I'm pleasantly surprised how nice they've come out before I even get to cut & buff to fix dust nibs and other tiny blemishes in the clear coat. The dust nibs are unavoidable, there's always going to be a few. After the first couple of panels I got the hang of what speed to move the gun at and what adjustments to make so that my clearcoats came out with minimal orange peel. Even the couple with more orange peel will be fine once I start sanding the clear. I'm putting down 4 coats of clear on the fronts of panels specifically for this reason.

So I've been starting with my super cleaned and tacked primered panels I sanded all to 600 grit anywhere visible. I do 1 thick coat of black sealer followed by 15-30 minutes dry time before I start the nogaro blue pearl basecoats. I then spray 3 coats of the blue basecoat (2 in hidden areas) with about 10-20 minutes between coats. This is all followed up with 2 to 4 coats of clear. I do 4 coats on the faces of the panels that will be exposed to the world and sunlight and eventually sanded and just 2 clearcoats on the door hinge/side areas/backs and such where they won't be exposed and visible. Each clearcoat gets 5-10 minutes flash/dry time between. Then once I'm done I drop a heater in the booth and keep the fans blasting. This just helps cure a little quicker. The last clearcoat is dry to touch within 45 minutes. Until about 48 hours afterward, especially first 24 hours, you need to be extremely careful and not lean or sit the panels on that fresh clearcoat. It's still very soft and you'll get an imprint in it if it sits too long in one position touching something. Not a huge problem to fix if it happens, but no need to be adding extra work in my sanding that will come next.

First pic is the rear subframe I got back from powdercoating last month. I went with satin black. Very happy with the work the shop did. Took it to ColorWerks Powder Coating here in the Denver area. They sand blasted it to remove some surface rust then coated it.




Here's the start of building my booth v2.0. Changes from the previous are it's longer, more center supports, and I bought some tacky real paint both intake filters, rather than just off the shelf hvac filters. This drastically cut back on the number of dust nibs I'm seeing while painting.








Here's some of my first results with full size panels! As you can see I resprayed my rear spoiler I'd already done in previous updates.











Next spray session of hood and rear bumper. More orange peel than I'd like in the hood, but I'll sand it out. Bumper came out really nice!








And the 3rd session in as many weekends. Rear trunk hatch, a door and the other fender. Wearing that Tyvek suit is terrible... It's like wearing a trash bag. Zero ventilation inside it. I think I lose 5 lbs of water weight each spray session and barely manage not to pass out by the end! It's been around 85 degrees inside the garage, then the booth is a plastic sweat lodge that adds more heat. Feels like it's 110 with those factors all put together. I need a water tube or something fed into the mask lol. Worth it though, I can't get over how good this color is looking!

[Dusty Mauve]

That looks awesome!

[belms4]

That looks awesome!

Thanks! Really happy with the results so far! With some luck by the end of September I should be done painting and can spend another 100 hours on cut & buff lol

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[RMode]

coming along nicely!

[belms4]

Sprayed a few more parts this weekend on Saturday evening. Figured I'd do a quick/short update so I don't fall behind posting pics since people ask me all the time how the build is going!

Just the 2 sideskirts and driver's front door this time around since the sideskirts are so long and take up a lot of booth space. This parts hanger I bought a few weeks ago has been great. Especially with all these larger parts where I need to spray both sides it saves me from having to spray twice to get both sides. Just hang it up and spray all around it in one session. Only minor issue is the air blast from the gun usually starts the parts swinging back and forth lightly. Hasn't caused a problem so far, just a little interesting to keep the gun at a consistent distance.



Just sealer sprayed so far:


I thought this was kinda a cool pic. This is after a couple coats of the nogaro basecoat prior to clearcoat. Looks a bit like a matte metallic blue.


With fresh clearcoat:



And 24 hours of dry time:



Had a small issue I didn't snap a picture of yet, but when unmasking the sideskirts I had the tape take a small piece of fresh paint off with it. It's maybe a half inch in size at most and hidden way down on the very bottom edge of a sideskirt. Still deciding what to do with that. It'll either be sand the area out and respray and blend a small section, or since it's pretty well hidden I could also just do a minor touch up with small brush. I'm sure the touch up would cover it and I'd be the only one to ever notice the tiny spot, but I'm also a little crazy with perfection haha.

All that's left to spray next week is a respray on the face only of my passenger front door, possible respray on that sideskirt section, spray the gas filler door and spray the trunk hatch license plate insert (both small pieces). Still planning to work on the front bumper later.

[sammy78]

I don’t blame you for going for perfection since it’s already so damn perfect. But if you don’t I wouldn’t blame you, it’s gonna look fantastic regardless.

[belms4]

8/29/2022 update:

Another small round parts painted over the weekend on Saturday. The passenger front door had an issue when I first sprayed it weeks back (gun malfunction partially my fault spit some globs on it just before clearcoat), so I sanded the front of it and around the edges and resprayed it. The back/sides came out fine from the previous spray, so this was just the front resprayed, which made it easy. I also sprayed the brand new trunk hatch license plate insert along with the gas filler door.

Last night I started on putting the fenders on the shell and the radiator support to mount the front bumper up and start widening it back out. It was narrowed for those who don't recall from my earlier posts. A little scary to start bending and cutting into a perfectly good RS4 front bumper cover, but it's starting to look good. As you'll see in the pics, I cut a slit across the bottom corners behind the fog light areas. This is where the material was previously removed along with bending it. So pulling the sides out will pull this cut I made open into a triangular shape and once I've got the edges set where I want them with the heat gun I'll add material back to fill that cut. Then level it, add some flexible polyurethane filler to sand and level, then probably put some primer over it to finish the leveling.









And the bumper fitting and modifications. Sorry the camera didn't seem to want to focus on the right pieces half the time (new phone). But you can see the gap at least between fender edges and bumper edges and how much I need to widen.






The final pic is after sitting there with the heat gun for a while after the cuts and slowly bending out the passenger side. I left it overstretched and clamped it in place like that to sit for a day. We'll see how it sits when I get back to it tonight.

[belms4]

Update on events from September through this last weekend

I started work on widening out the front RS4 bumper cover. This took a solid couple weeks of work as there was more damage or general weird things going on with this bumper than I originally noticed. I made cuts on the lower sections just behind the fog light area and split this cut out a little bit. Stretched it open and clamped it off to add some material back. Holes were drilled to help the new plastic (urethane) take and bite in better and it was added from the back. Looks like a bit of a mess til it's cleaned up and sanded down.











So here's where the fun started on the driver side corner. This first pic is of a normal RS4 bumper corner. Thanks to a friend on here for lending me that one to use as a model and for parts (it was half a bumper).



Here's that same corner on mine. Clearly missing some material like it was shaved off. I think this had something to do with being mounted on an S4 prior to this. They never really fit 100% perfect to a narrow body from what I've seen.



After a lot of adding material, sculpting, and sanding to shape I finally got it looking right again. I think it was roughly 3/4" that was missing from this end.




Other fun on the front bumper included a missing tab for mounting the center grille. Same process as the corner... just add back material and sculpt it into shape! Also a little crack I cut out and filled.




Received new Raxles axles. I've got 4 newly rebuilt axles for the car!



Thanks to Jens in Germany again for some new material for the RS4 seats. I've got the black leather Recaro B5 RS4 seats (imported from UK) and at some point will be reupholstering the center sections with brand new original Hi-Tech material. That's the only portion of the Hi-Tech seats different from the all black leather, so should be the same once center areas and piece of the backs are reupholstered. I'll have a shop do this since I'm no upholstery expert. May be later next year though, not sure yet.



Back to the front bumper. I primered just the sections I worked on since the rest really was in good shape. I filled some tiny pitting in the paint with putty, but that's all I needed to do in the other sections I didn't primer over and sand out.







Ready to paint, finally! Starting to see why body and paint work costs so much!? Also painted the washer caps and some tiny parts from the gas filler cap hinge.





And the results:





Obviously I had to fit in the new grilles to see how they'd look at first chance I got



That's it for this iteration of the booth! Say goodbye! All done painting the separated parts from the chassis. The shell/chassis is all that's left!



And first look at fitting up some of the newly painted parts




Unfortunately, I'm pretty unhappy about this next picture. Colorado salvage rebuild requirements tell me I must stamp "Rebuilt from salvage" into the driver's portion of the B pillar in lettering no smaller than 1/4". I started by smashing in some steel lettering to spell this out, but I started seeing it denting the panel lightly more than actually stamping the letters in. So, I went for plan b which was to retrace my lettering with a dremel and etch in the letters by hand. So I was able to save that decently well. I still hate seeing this bs in the door jamb. I've got a plan though! Once it's inspected and I've got my rebuilt title I'll be ordering a new vin sticker and it's going directly over that pile of crap. And if I still don't like how it looks, I'll waste more time sanding it down, filling it with putty and smoothing it over, then blend in a section to respray the area.



And back to the shell! Stripped back down and working on sanding the primer on roof and rear quarter panels. Haven't touched this thing in a while since I was off painting every separate part.






I also found in the middle of this that the front RS4 seats mount to the car entirely differently due to being a manual forward and back movement, not electric (though every other movement is electric for some odd reason). So it mounts to a single rail in the middle of the floor that only manual seat A4s would have. See the difference between the mounting in the bottom of the S4 seat in first pic and RS4 seat in second pic? At some point I'll be having my main RS parts source in the UK (Steve, who I'm sure many of you know) cut out some brackets from the floor to send me. I'll need to get with my neighbor to borrow a welder and weld them in to the floor. Will find some covers to cover the S4 bolt hole and carpet cutouts.




Next up since I've finished sanding the shell is clean the hell out of it for paint! I'll paint these wheel wells on the back later, but the idea of cleaning everything first is you don't want a single spec of dirt blowing off a dirty area while you're painting and into your fresh coats. I'll go back later and need to grind some rust bubbles I found under where the strut mounts sit down to clean metal. I'll do sealer and maybe paint the wells. Depends how much paint I've got left at that point seeing as it costs me about $730 a gallon :) About a $110 dollar per gallon increase from summer 2021 when I bought the first gallon.

Anyhow, got to work this past week scrubbing everything. Sprayed a degreaser first, then went to town scrubbing with a carpet brush and soapy water. Results cleaning those areas speak for themselves.




I removed the last few items impeding into where I need to paint. The evap lines that run the length of the car along with the fuel lines. The 3 you see in this picture came out along with the other evap/emissions line on driver side. Found where these hard fuel lines connect to the lines coming from the gas tank and fuel filter where in pretty bad condition in the rubber soft sections. I'll be finding some sort of replacement. 1 of the 3 lines is available new from Audi Tradition only. So I'm even looking at possibly buying the fuel line kit from THE-Tuner (meant for dual pumps) and ditching half the kit. Otherwise I'll make my own lines and filter connections or see if I can get the fittings replaced somehow where they crimp the soft hose sections in.



Final update for this time around... I bought a full set of original B7 RS4 brakes for front and rear! I was planning 17z first, but ditched that plan. Going with the big boy brakes! 8 piston and use 2 piece 365mm rotors up front. Rear upgrades to 324mm 2 piece rotors. Currently sourcing some slotted rotors for these. I'll post a pic of the rear calipers in my next update. I just cleaned them up last night. Currently cleaning around the engine bay, as that will be first up to paint on the shell. I'll build a new booth around the shell and should be painting within a couple weeks here I hope!

[q20v]

😳😳😳

Wow, amazing work!!!

[PwrWgn]

Aw man Hitech seats are so cool!

[Tec_Nine]

Awesome build, enjoying the progress. Can't wait to see the finished project.

[belms4]

Alright... been super busy on this build and haven't posted an update in a good while. So let's get to it because there's a ton of progress to report! Enough that I will need 2 posts to cover it all since I found there's a limit of 50 pictures per post.

This update starts back in mid October 2022 picking up where my previous one left off.

Started on seam sealer repairs around the engine bay. From inside the car I could see some daylight, so patched up all these little problem areas not sealed off before paint. Also went over every inch of the engine bay with a bucket of soapy water and scrub brush to clean for paint.





So in prep for some parts I'll be installing (RS4 bipipes w/ THE pressure Y) I needed to fold over this pinch weld so the bipipes will fit. It's possible they'd fit anyhow, but I decided while I have the chance to fold these on both frame rails I'd do it now since it will and did pop some paint loose when folding. More pics to come on this.



I ran into some issues I found in the rear wheel wells. Due to moisture being retained behind the liners over 20+ years I kept finding patches of rust and paint that was starting to bubble due to corrosion happening underneath. Especially up behind the rear strut mount towers. So on the passenger side this required removing the fuel tank and driver side the leak detection pump (evap system) so I could get in behind everything in the wells. More pics on this to come as well... a lot more, as these rear wheel wells took a few weeks to finish up fully.






Cleaned fuel tank with pressure washer



There she sits prior to the new booth going up around her and moving that engine out of the way. Also pics of the booth going up. This one was absolutely huge compared with my previous one, a lot more support beams!





Masking to paint engine bay






Cleaned up the leak detection pump I pulled and got a new air filter for it since the original was 20+ years old and disintegrating.



And since we're into fall and winter in the coming pics I had to make an exhaust tunnel for the booth and seal off the garage so I could keep painting temps in the low 60s with heaters running inside garage, but outside of booth. Engine bay was a total pain in the ass to paint since it has so many angles and a lot of it was painting from my back on the ground underneath. But it came out pretty well! I stopped a couple inches into the transmission tunnel, as I won't be painting that (no reason to).








Next up was painting the roof section by itself. I painted the chassis in sections because it had some huuuuge sections and would've taken me so much time painting it all at once that some areas would have been past their flash time by the time I was done with the rest and ready for next coat. So just easiest to make some cutoff points I could blend together at a seam and do the biggest sections by themselves.












I bought a full new set of keys and locks from Audi Tradition that were actually for a right hand drive RS4 I believe, but were closest available to a new set for the US spec S4. I did need to do some parts swapping to get this to work. Particularly, the avant trunk hatch lock cylinders were different. The US spec cylinder is actually longer and totally different locking mechanism. I took both apart to see how they worked and found these numbered (pins I guess you could call them) in a specific order makeup the combo of notches that fit a specific key cut. So I took the pins/pieces from the RS4 lock cylinder and kept them in the correct order and swapped them into the US spec S4 lock cylinder. This allowed me to use the brand new key on the US spec lock cylinder. Worked nicely! But this was a small project to swap.






On to masking for the final large section of body panels.






And paint! First 2 pics are basecoat prior to clearcoat.











That's my 50 pics max for this post, so will continue in next post.

[belms4]

And part 2...

Some more pics of the fresh paint unmasked






Paint came out wonderful! No screw ups or runs, so I guess I'm getting better at this! That's why I saved the largest pieces for last though, so I'd have the most practice by then. A screw up in one of these large panels would likely be a very large repaint. Cut & buff should clear up the slight orange peel nicely.




So back to these damn rear wheel wells... All these little spots were where I found corrosion bubbling the paint slightly so I ended up fully stripping the coating in these wells and left the original undercoat texture since that remained tightly sealed.






Time for painting the roof gutter strips I forgot about!






More of working on rear wheel wells. I did a quick coat of rust encapsulator/corrosion inhibitor around the areas most prone to corrosion.





And now fresh undercoating across the whole rear wheel wells. Got an undercoating gun and the good stuff 3M Dyna-Pro rubberized undercoating. Really liked how this came out! Wish I coulda left it black like that, but unfortunately solvents coming in contact with this undercoating can turn it back to a goo, so this was no good long term. Had to paint it, which came out more factory look anyhow. Final pic is the pups checking out the fresh paint. They look thrilled!













One of the more fun things I found when I got this car from auction was someone had cut the sunroof drain lines to take the slider cover for the sunroof. Why!?!! Got some replacement drain lines from Phil at audis4parts months back, so time to install before I start putting everything back together. I pulled all the fuel lines from back around the fuel filter and tank to rebuild as well. I have another thread where I got some ideas on rebuilding those. Got something in mind there to replace the rubber sections coming down the pipeline.




And my latest bit of fun since paint is done is tearing up all the factory sound deadener from the floors, transmission tunnel, under rear seats, etc. This has been a pain and destroyed my back leaning down in here the last couple weeks. Basically this stuff is tar based and does not come out clean. So I went for using dry ice bags to sit on top of it and cool it down then use a non-marring chisel and hammer to pop it all up. This helped a lot! But it was still a pain and a lot of it did not come up clean. So next step was soaking it overnight in Goo Gone Automotive then scrape the remainder off with scraper. This was messy, really messy. The end goal here is I will be installing Dynamat sound deadener all over under the carpets, doors, seats and such (probably even roof). Make it a nice quiet and quality ride.











A final couple pics of how it sits today in January 2023. I got that leak detection pump reinstalled as the first part to go back on so far. Floors are clean and I'll be spraying some epoxy primer on any exposed metal there prior to fitting the Dynamat.




In other news, I've got a Mig welder for Christmas! So I'll be digging into that and need to weld in some new seat brackets for the RS4 front seats. Should be another fun learning curve, but a much needed skill I need to pick up next.

[zatch_303]

Amazing progress man! So excited for you haha

[wbrunner23]

I feel overwhelmed just looking at these photos. Props for doing so much work on your own. I used to have motivation to work on my car, but never to your level.

My motor has been out for 4 months. I look at it and think about putting it back in. Then I walk away.

[cu52]

Awesome!! I need to stop by one of these days and see her in person!

[belms4]

Yeah I try not to think too much about the project as a whole. Just the next few steps planned out far enough so that I have the parts or materials I need in hand before I get there. Any research and learning is mostly done ahead of the next step too.

But this has given me a whole different perspective on projects. I used to think something like an engine pull/install was a big project, but something like that you can get big results in 5 hours or so of mechanical work. Some of this body work has taken weeks to months of 40ish hours a week into it at each step. A lot of that because I wanted everything perfect, started with less than ideal panels, and the time put in is no factor to me. I can't really stand when I have free time and I'm not working on something, so this has been a great project for me. Haven't been bored after work in nearly 2 years haha!

Once cut & buff is done I think the mechanical reassembly should go relatively quick. We'll see how well I documented the tear down at each step. I've got about 4 boxes full of just labeled bolts stored away right now. I'll also be doing some parts refurbishing with powder coating at home, so that could slow things down a bit, but should be kinda fun.

And yeah, anyone local is welcome to come by and see the project any time! I'm shooting for this summer to have it ready, but it's hard to judge how long some of these steps take since it's a full ground up restoration and not simply a scuff & spray of the exterior with trim intact.

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[wstpride92]

Wow this is amazing. I love the attention to detail. I also love that these are now the muscle cars of our generation and people are doing big time restorations of these. Love it. Hope mine comes out like this one day.

[VMCB5S4]

Beautiful work! Thank you for documenting all of this. Well done.


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[jesster]

More updates please!

[belms4]

More updates please!

You got it! Coming in the next few days here my friend. Got some exciting plan changes coming down the pipeline for the engine as well.

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[Tec_Nine]

WOW! What an awesome journey, the attention to detail and quality of craftmanship is amazing. Hell of a build good sir! Keep up the good work.

[Usofstance]

awesome build!

[Silverex]

Awesome build!!

Just curious why didn’t you leave the factory sound deadening and put the dynomat over top? Just so you could clean everything?

[belms4]

Awesome build!!

Just curious why didn’t you leave the factory sound deadening and put the dynomat over top? Just so you could clean everything?

Thanks guys! Coming update should show the finished dynamat (may have gone overboard lol).

Yeah really just wanted to get that old crap off and replace it entirely rather than double up layers or work around it. Didn't want to make it too thick so the carpet wouldn't go in place nicely. It was falling apart in many areas too. I had the time, so decided to rip it all up. There were some crazy stubborn areas, so I did have to just put the dynamat over it.

Also not sure I trust sticking dyanmat on top of the factory deadener. You gotta clean the surface real well so the dynamat sticks long term. Every time I cleaned the top of the factory stuff it was like wiping a tar ball and impossible to get a real clean layer/surface.

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[belms4]

First things first, one quick update with some exciting news on this build that's now official... I decided to make this a full conversion to a B5 RS4 and I bought an AZR RS4 engine yesterday, RS4 01e transmission, and RS4 rear diff is being included so I get the full drivetrain and final drive ratio of the RS4. Coming from Steve Green in the UK. Many thanks to him! Pics I've got so far are below. Engine has 94k miles on it and transmission 108k miles. So fairly decent mileage for the current age of the platform.

[oasis]

First things first, one quick update with some exciting news on this build that's now official... I decided to make this a full conversion to a B5 RS4 and I bought an AZR RS4 engine yesterday, RS4 01e transmission, and RS4 rear diff is being included so I get the full drivetrain and final drive ratio of the RS4. Coming from Steve Green in the UK. Many thanks to him! Pics I've got so far are below. Engine has 94k miles on it and transmission 108k miles. So fairly decent mileage for the current age of the platform.

Just curious, what power can a stock internal rs4 engine take?

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[VMCB5S4]

Awesome stuff! What are the major differences between an RS4 and S4 01E? Just gear ratio? I need to make European friends lol


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[replica_rs4]

Looks like you got the best 01e with gear pump for the cooler . Factory lines were expensive and limited availability . Use s4 auto rad for gearbox oil cooler .

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[replica_rs4]

Awesome stuff! What are the major differences between an RS4 and S4 01E? Just gear ratio? I need to make European friends lol


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Shorter 3rd and 4th . Same final drive+ gearbox pump for oil cooler .

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[belms4]

I believe the rods are still the limiting factor in the RS4 engines, though I think they are different from the S4. A lot is upgraded from the S4 2.7T. Due to rods I don't think it's much more power that can be handled but if those were upgraded the difference would be more substantial. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong there, been a while since I've researched differences.

As for gearbox, the RS4 3rd and 4th gears are different ratios. Shorter iirc, that's why FATS times get adjusted between s4 and rs4 01e gearboxes.

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[VMCB5S4]

Copy that. Very nice purchase!


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[RMode]

I believe the rods are still the limiting factor in the RS4 engines, though I think they are different from the S4. A lot is upgraded from the S4 2.7T. Due to rods I don't think it's much more power that can be handled but if those were upgraded the difference would be more substantial. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong there, been a while since I've researched differences.

As for gearbox, the RS4 3rd and 4th gears are different ratios. Shorter iirc, that's why FATS times get adjusted between s4 and rs4 01e gearboxes.

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Different rods, different rod bearings, among a few other things. Rods still the limiting factor as in most cars, but ultimately a bit more forgiving vs the APB

Good pickup! I've now been sitting on mine since March 2020 lolol

[Stage_3]

This looks great! Glad to see the RS4 bumper went to good use!

[belms4]

This looks great! Glad to see the RS4 bumper went to good use!

Thanks man, you're welcome to come check it out anytime you're back in town! This is actually a different front bumper from the one I got from you... funny enough I traded that one for a rear rs4 bumper and bought a narrowed front rs4 bumper back before I decided on the widebody conversion. Then had to widen my narrowed front one Been quite the adventure that I keep changing up as things progress. And now I've got a fully readied and overhauled K04 APB engine sitting around replaced by the incoming AZR.

Still working on a new update for everyone that covers everything on the chassis done since my last post. It's coming, I promise!

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