RS6 Oil Change DIY

[vinny.dtw]

Figured I'd do a quick DIY write up since it hasn't been done yet. But this car is fairly straight forward if you've done any oil changes before. Given that I like to keep oil change intervals at 5k miles. So with Audi care, i always do one in between. The only difficult thing was really tracking down the correct oil. At the time of this thread was made, there are only TWO approved oils for this car spec'd by Audi 511.00. Which is the OEM 0W-40, or the Mobil 1 ESP X3. There are other viscosities available that is 511.00 spec, but only these two are 0W-40. I ended up buying the oil and filter at my local audi dealership. at 9.85/quart, and 15.xx for the filter. Still way cheaper than the 3xx another dealer charged me for an oil change...

Things needed:
New O-ring for drain plug
Oil Filter p/n: 06m198405f
511.00 0W-40: 10 Quarts
T25 torx
T45 torx
32mm socket for oil filter housing
Small pry bar



Crack open the oil cap.

Get the car in the air, flat. And remove the lower car cover. There is 15 T25 torx screws/2 plastic nubs for you to remove to get access to the oil pan.


You'll find the oil pan located in the center front of the car. This will require a T45 too loosen the drain plug. Remove. Drain. It'll take a while... I let that thing drip for about an hour... and only got about 9.5 quarts of oil out. Tighten after to 22ft/lbs. Replace the O-ring.


Now moving on. The oil filter housing is in the engine bay. Right in between the turbo inlets. Loosen that and replace the filter and o-ring and retighten to 16ft/lbs.


Fill 9.5 quarts of oil. Check level in car. Make sure its full. Done.


I'm currently looking to see what oil dipstick we can put in to manually check the oil since these motors seem to burn a bit of oil. Will update when I find anything.

[mdjones354]

This is awesome. Thanks Vinny!!
And I love your car / spec btw.
Jonesy

[OneFastBMW]

On my full size Range Rover there is a silver tube under the oil fill cap that goes right down to the bottom of the oil pan. You just hook an extractor to that tube and suck all the oil out. Using that system I can change the oil in 15 minutes start to finish.

Is there anything similar on the RS6/7 that makes using an extractor easy?

[mdjones354]

Yeah, that would be awesome! Esp since the oil filter is up too.

[burbletune]

great write up. thank you for this

what are the specs on the wheels they look very good

[vinny.dtw]

This is awesome. Thanks Vinny!!
And I love your car / spec btw.
Jonesy

Thanks bud! Love yours too!

On my full size Range Rover there is a silver tube under the oil fill cap that goes right down to the bottom of the oil pan. You just hook an extractor to that tube and suck all the oil out. Using that system I can change the oil in 15 minutes start to finish.

Is there anything similar on the RS6/7 that makes using an extractor easy?

The oil dipstick tube by the front I tested with my small extractor that didn't a) didn't have the capacity to hold all the oil, and b) the tube didnt go very far down. So i didn't even bother with the extractor since i had a lift. Im sure there are some better fancier extractor that is vacuum pressured that may work.

great write up. thank you for this

what are the specs on the wheels they look very good

22x10.5 ET7

[Jim skatzka]

Vinny, great write up. One question, what are you using on your pinch weld lift points. Thanks! Jim

[rev_hi]

This is awesome! Thank you!

[gramcustodian]

I just used a 15L extractor that I bought from amazon to do a 5k oil change in 30 minutes. Bought the oil and filter/gaskets from europa parts online. took a little over 9qts out and refilled with the same amount. Was super easy. Will ask the dealership to do a full on oil change from the oil pan plug at 10k miles.

Extractor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Europa Parts Oil Change Kit (Oil Filter + Housing Cap Gasket + 10 quarts 511 spec OEM full synthetic oil 0W-40):
https://www.europaparts.com/oil-chan...8-4-0l-v8.html

[vinny.dtw]

I just used a 15L extractor that I bought from amazon to do a 5k oil change in 30 minutes. Bought the oil and filter/gaskets from europa parts online. took a little over 9qts out and refilled with the same amount. Was super easy. Will ask the dealership to do a full on oil change from the oil pan plug at 10k miles.

Extractor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Europa Parts Oil Change Kit (Oil Filter + Housing Cap Gasket + 10 quarts 511 spec OEM full synthetic oil 0W-40):
https://www.europaparts.com/oil-chan...8-4-0l-v8.html

I love it. Good to know, i presume you just used the dipstick tube? That'll make changes wayyyy faster and easier since you can access the filter from the top.

Vince

Vinny, great write up. One question, what are you using on your pinch weld lift points. Thanks! Jim

I did mine on a lift. lol. sorry.

[gramcustodian]

correct. used oil dipstick tube (has a plug you pull out). extractors usually come with several sized tubes, you use the largest diameter that will fit easily into the dipstick tube. slide into tube using very minimal force. biggest problem ppl have is trying to push the extractor tube in too far. once extractor tube stops don’t try to force it in further.

easiest oil change i’ve ever done. minimal cleanup as well. hardest part was trusting mmi oil level. use to using an old fashion dipstick. GL!

[gramcustodian]

forgot to mention, oil change best practice. you want your oil temp to be warm, not hot. so run your car to running temp, then let it sit for 20-30 minutes minimum. you do not want the extractor tube to melt in your engine. seems obvious but in the excitement of doing the first oil change I had to remind myself to let the car sit for a bit before starting with extraction.

[allenyao09]

Very helpful, thanks! Would probably try a DIY oil change. BTW, just wondering which wheels are you running on? These wheels look really nice. I have a white RS6 as well.

[HL_Nya]

just curious about the ET of your wheels, my local shop suggested ET10， does yours do any kind of scrapping when going thru bad roads ?

[icr]

That is good to know. I use this extractor, but my old BMW 5-series wagon did not have a dipstick (that I could ever find.) Looking forward to not having to get under this car.
Last oil change I did was easiest ever as Autozone gave free same day delivery of the oil.

FRS 86 Oil Change vacuum.jpg

[Jimminez@Nemesis]

just curious about the ET of your wheels, my local shop suggested ET10， does yours do any kind of scrapping when going thru bad roads ?

Did ET7 on them. Same as running 12mm spacers on OE wheels. No issues with that spec, even on our Canadian roads.

[icr]

Can someone post a picture of where the oil dipstick tube is?

[wheeljouster]

I realize this is an RS6/7 subforum, but here’s the oil dipstick tube on my C8 S6. Look for something similar. Mine was hiding down there just a little bit.



Getting ready to do an oil change via extractor method myself. This’ll be my first time going this route.


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[OneFastBMW]

Once you change oil with an extractor, especially when the filter is also topside, you will never go back.

I dump the old oil into a 5 gallon bucket and close the lid. Once the bucket is full I take it up to autozone to pour into their big tanks and they recycle it for free.

From start to finish is maybe 15 minutes.

[HL_Nya]

Thanks!

[Jim skatzka]

Was the dipstick where you thought it would be? Jim, 21 RS7
Thanks!

[MikeMac10]

next message

[MikeMac10]

Love the wheels. What are they?

Figured I'd do a quick DIY write up since it hasn't been done yet. But this car is fairly straight forward if you've done any oil changes before. Given that I like to keep oil change intervals at 5k miles. So with Audi care, i always do one in between. The only difficult thing was really tracking down the correct oil. At the time of this thread was made, there are only TWO approved oils for this car spec'd by Audi 511.00. Which is the OEM 0W-40, or the Mobil 1 ESP X3. There are other viscosities available that is 511.00 spec, but only these two are 0W-40. I ended up buying the oil and filter at my local audi dealership. at 9.85/quart, and 15.xx for the filter. Still way cheaper than the 3xx another dealer charged me for an oil change...

Things needed:
New O-ring for drain plug
Oil Filter p/n: 06m198405f
511.00 0W-40: 10 Quarts
T25 torx
T45 torx
32mm socket for oil filter housing
Small pry bar



Crack open the oil cap.

Get the car in the air, flat. And remove the lower car cover. There is 15 T25 torx screws/2 plastic nubs for you to remove to get access to the oil pan.


You'll find the oil pan located in the center front of the car. This will require a T45 too loosen the drain plug. Remove. Drain. It'll take a while... I let that thing drip for about an hour... and only got about 9.5 quarts of oil out. Tighten after to 22ft/lbs. Replace the O-ring.


Now moving on. The oil filter housing is in the engine bay. Right in between the turbo inlets. Loosen that and replace the filter and o-ring and retighten to 16ft/lbs.


Fill 9.5 quarts of oil. Check level in car. Make sure its full. Done.


I'm currently looking to see what oil dipstick we can put in to manually check the oil since these motors seem to burn a bit of oil. Will update when I find anything.

[badeason]

thanks for this!


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[mdjones354]

Changed my oil with an extractor. Only managed to extract 8L though. Any strategies for getting more out is appreciated!
All went smoothly except for dropping the drain plug. Be careful with that one!


Drain plug location


With extractor tube in place


Jonesy

[gramcustodian]

Slight descent so the front of the car is a few degrees lower than the rear of the car may result in a bit more to extract. Also have you tried using a thinner extractor hose? Don't push if you hit resistance with it, but a thinner hose may get a little bit farther down. just random thoughts. GL

- - - Updated - - -

also may have only hit 8 if the car had burned through some and the oil level wasn't at max when you did the change.

[Noggybowl]

forgot to mention, oil change best practice. you want your oil temp to be warm, not hot. so run your car to running temp, then let it sit for 20-30 minutes minimum. you do not want the extractor tube to melt in your engine. seems obvious but in the excitement of doing the first oil change I had to remind myself to let the car sit for a bit before starting with extraction.

Quick Correction, you actually want the oil as warm as possible. Drive the car, get all your tools out and then get to work. You want the oil as viscous as possible to extract (or really drain for that matter). Do not wait 20-30 minutes, Maybe more like 5 for oil to settle.

Now moving on. The oil filter housing is in the engine bay. Right in between the turbo inlets. Loosen that and replace the filter and o-ring and retighten to 16ft/lbs.

START with the oil filter housing. That way the oil that is sitting in the housing drains to the pan and you can remove that oil as well.

Great write up for the people Vinny! Just trying to add a couple little bonus tidbits.

[gramcustodian]

after 5 min the oil temp if car is brought up to running temp could be close to 180-190 degrees. the internals that the tube would be in contact with, likely hotter. you don't worry about melting the extractor tube? after 20-30 min the car is still warm, the oil is as well. maybe semantics, just my opinion. I've only done one change but I got a full 9.5 out.

[Noggybowl]

after 5 min the oil temp if car is brought up to running temp could be close to 180-190 degrees. the internals that the tube would be in contact with, likely hotter. you don't worry about melting the extractor tube? after 20-30 min the car is still warm, the oil is as well. maybe semantics, just my opinion. I've only done one change but I got a full 9.5 out.

As long as your extractor is a decent quality it is not an issue. I have done hundreds of oil changes with an extractor, for Audis. Cars with a dry sump, like R8, have a minimum temp you need the car to be at so you can drain all the oil. Extractors are the same, the hotter, the better. 180-190 Deg is great!

[aquarian]

Just went to my dealer yesterday for the 1st year 10k oil change. I asked my advisor how they do oil changes and he said extraction.

[sillyboy]

Getting ready for the oil extraction method. 6k miles on her.

1.). My Dipstik is not easy to get hands on as there is fragile tubing running right over it. I assume this pulls straight out and is not threaded? I pulled on it hard and it didn't release, and I dont want to damage it.

2.). Does the engine cover just pop off to expose the filter??


Thanks everyone.

[sillyboy]

Well. That was the simplest and cleanest oil change ever. Game changer. only got out 8L but when I checked my oil level pre change on the MMI, it was pretty low. Warmed the engine, let it cool 5min, removed engine cover, pulled Dipstick plug, removed filter and hooked the extractor up to my compressor. 10min. While it was draining replaced filter, filled with 8L and looks I'm right in the middle in the MMI.

Ridiculously simple. Will have Audi do the 10k.

The oil wasn't filthy, but was pretty darn dark.

Glad to change it for a little over 100$

[wheeljouster]

Well. That was the simplest and cleanest oil change ever. Game changer. only got out 8L but when I checked my oil level pre change on the MMI, it was pretty low. Warmed the engine, let it cool 5min, removed engine cover, pulled Dipstick plug, removed filter and hooked the extractor up to my compressor. 10min. While it was draining replaced filter, filled with 8L and looks I'm right in the middle in the MMI.

Ridiculously simple. Will have Audi do the 10k.

The oil wasn't filthy, but was pretty darn dark.

Glad to change it for a little over 100$

So simple, right?! Saved money, knew it was done right, and not having to schedule a dealership visit is a win win win.


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[Jim skatzka]

Jonesy, I am having a hard time getting plug out of tube. Do you need to really yank on that thing to get it out? Thanks ! Jim

[jbain2]

Jonesy, I am having a hard time getting plug out of tube. Do you need to really yank on that thing to get it out? Thanks ! Jim

This comes up often. With the extractors that use softer tubes the hot oil melts and deforms them. When things cool the tubing retains the deformed shape and can’t be pulled out as it’s no longer straight. The other thing to know is to what depth you insert the tubing so as not to go in too far to create a place where the tubing deforms. I had this happen and had to drop the oil pan to get the tubing out.


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[Jim skatzka]

Thanks for getting back. What I’m referring to is the factory cap on on dipstick tube. I don’t want to break the dang thing but it doesn’t seem to want to come out. Thanks! Jim

[wheeljouster]

Thanks for getting back. What I’m referring to is the factory cap on on dipstick tube. I don’t want to break the dang thing but it doesn’t seem to want to come out. Thanks! Jim

Mine was really difficult to remove also. I used pliers on it, pulling up and twisting back and forth. I thought I was going to break something but eventually it popped out.


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[jbain2]

Thanks for getting back. What I’m referring to is the factory cap on on dipstick tube. I don’t want to break the dang thing but it doesn’t seem to want to come out. Thanks! Jim

Gotcha. Sorry for the misunderstanding.


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[Jim skatzka]

Can anybody tell me why the plug at the top of the dipstick tube seems to not want to come out. I’ve had pliers on it pulled hard and it just doesn’t want to come out! Thanks ! Jim

[wheeljouster]

Can anybody tell me why the plug at the top of the dipstick tube seems to not want to come out. I’ve had pliers on it pulled hard and it just doesn’t want to come out! Thanks ! Jim

You’ll get it! Start with twisting it back and forth with pliers. Then pulling while twisting back and forth. Mine was a bitch also and I felt like I was going to break something but eventually it came out.


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