Convert 2.0 Oil pump system to 1.8 Oil pump

[james12lucy]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-iabed-in...-635-0008~iab/

Or just buy directly from Issam. Ensure he gets 100% of the money and don’t have to deal with potential ECS shipping/general headaches.


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[arankaspar1]

I was hoping to not have to buy a cooler. This giac tune is stage 3 but it's stills just a daily driver.

1. Do you think the stock oil switch port would be big enough to use for the accusump?

I went with the electric valve option.
2. Do you know of a way to wire this to something that only happens before startup? I.e. fuel pump priming or maybe the check engine like hahaha.

3. I installed that glow shift gauge but I used this banjo bolt adapter on the turbo feed line for the gauge sensor. I'm reading 12psi warmed up. Do you think it could be due to the location not being closer to the oil filter? Should I Tee into where the stock oil switch is?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-new-sout...o-port/con017/

[arankaspar1]

Also, I got the 55-60psi cantor valve. Do you think that's gonna work fine or should I have gotten a diff psi rating?

Cantor model 24-275X

[arankaspar1]

Yeah I think I have his number. Same zip code as me (510) Oakland.

[Jayz691]

I was hoping to not have to buy a cooler. This giac tune is stage 3 but it's stills just a daily driver.

1. Do you think the stock oil switch port would be big enough to use for the accusump?

I went with the electric valve option.
2. Do you know of a way to wire this to something that only happens before startup? I.e. fuel pump priming or maybe the check engine like hahaha.

3. I installed that glow shift gauge but I used this banjo bolt adapter on the turbo feed line for the gauge sensor. I'm reading 12psi warmed up. Do you think it could be due to the location not being closer to the oil filter? Should I Tee into where the stock oil switch is?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-new-sout...o-port/con017/

Assuming its 12psi at idle.? What do ya have it 2k/3k rpms? Is it hitting 60psi by 3k? If so, and its only low at idle, could be bad piston cooling jets. If 2 or 3 check valves are shot(stuck open), it'll cause your idle pressure to drop.
EDIT- didn't realise you did the 1.8t conv, when I commented. So many not be your issue..

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[Kevin C]

Another factor is that the 1.8T pump is has about 20% less volume than the 2.0TFSI pump.

[arankaspar1]

No I never converted to 1.8. seems like way too much money. I'll just buy a new engine if this one goes. I would like to pre-oil before starting and so I got the accusump valve and about to buy a 2qt accusump piston.

[arankaspar1]

Assuming its 12psi at idle.? What do ya have it 2k/3k rpms? Is it hitting 60psi by 3k? If so, and its only low at idle, could be bad piston cooling jets. If 2 or 3 check valves are shot(stuck open), it'll cause your idle pressure to drop.
EDIT- didn't realise you did the 1.8t conv, when I commented. So many not be your issue..

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Yeah could be the oil squirters on the pistons. Do you know if these are easily accessible after removing the balance shafts? Or does the crank assembly get in the way?

[Jayz691]

Yeah could be the oil squirters on the pistons. Do you know if these are easily accessible after removing the balance shafts? Or does the crank assembly get in the way?

You can get the front 3 without removing the crank. Thats what i did, run 19-20psi now at hot idle. Was 12-13 before..

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[canadianA4B7]

No I never converted to 1.8. seems like way too much money. I'll just buy a new engine if this one goes. I would like to pre-oil before starting and so I got the accusump valve and about to buy a 2qt accusump piston.

Piston squirters need more pressure then accusump can output to spray the pistons. Don’t waste your money unless you’re going to a fully external cooler/oil filter change out to one that will allow the oil to flow into correct veins inside the motor.

To pre oil buy one of the fuse plug ins that allows you to install a switch and fuse after the factory fuse. Kill the ignition fuse, turn the key and viola pressurized pre oiling for under $20.00

https://www.amazon.com/General-Techn.../dp/B001TCXOTW

[arankaspar1]

You can get the front 3 without removing the crank. Thats what i did, run 19-20psi now at hot idle. Was 12-13 before..

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Awesome, great tip

[Jayz691]

Piston squirters need more pressure then accusump can output to spray the pistons. Don’t waste your money unless you’re going to a fully external cooler/oil filter change out to one that will allow the oil to flow into correct veins inside the motor.

To pre oil buy one of the fuse plug ins that allows you to install a switch and fuse after the factory fuse. Kill the ignition fuse, turn the key and viola pressurized pre oiling for under $20.00

https://www.amazon.com/General-Techn.../dp/B001TCXOTW

How much pressure does the accusump put out? Don't think he's worried about having enough to open the cooling jets(1.6-1.9bar), just to get oil flowing. But could be wrong.

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[canadianA4B7]

How much pressure does the accusump put out? Don't think he's worried about having enough to open the cooling jets(1.6-1.9bar), just to get oil flowing. But could be wrong.

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It’s how the oil gets to the squirters through the galleries and how Audi balance shaft makes the pressure engine likes. The accusump “should” be set up to be just below operating pressure at idle 19 psi maybe it’s not there to oil the engine it’s only there to add a bit when needed (heavy turns, hard launches). It will not give you 5 min extra drive time, more like 30 seconds to a minute of oiling while the oil pump continues to push fragments of destroyed bearing through the engine.

I’ve got a dry sump for the 2.5 swap. Gives me option to lower motor in engine bay, fabricated low profile oil pan and guaranteed oiling all the time. Few things audi missed with the balance shaft disaster in the 2.0

[james12lucy]

It’s how the oil gets to the squirters through the galleries and how Audi balance shaft makes the pressure engine likes. The accusump “should” be set up to be just below operating pressure at idle 19 psi maybe it’s not there to oil the engine it’s only there to add a bit when needed (heavy turns, hard launches). It will not give you 5 min extra drive time, more like 30 seconds to a minute of oiling while the oil pump continues to push fragments of destroyed bearing through the engine.

I’ve got a dry sump for the 2.5 swap. Gives me option to lower motor in engine bay, fabricated low profile oil pan and guaranteed oiling all the time. Few things audi missed with the balance shaft disaster in the 2.0

This.

An accusump pre-oiler will do the job, and pressure can be set to 40+ psi, but it’s not really needed. They’re really meant for what Canadian highlights (starvation for whatever reason). Dry sump is the way to go though. Cough cough.




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[Jayz691]

This.

An accusump pre-oiler will do the job, and pressure can be set to 40+ psi, but it’s not really needed. They’re really meant for what Canadian highlights (starvation for whatever reason). Dry sump is the way to go though. Cough cough.




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Ah, gotcha. So more for consistency in say, a track car.?

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[james12lucy]

Ah, gotcha. So more for consistency in say, a track car.?

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Exactly. Though building this one off was about the same price as a new OEM oil pump… I’ll be building another for my 1990 Coupe Quattro too, and it’s a street car. Guaranteed oil pressure and lubrication are assets when building any engine.


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[arankaspar1]

This.

An accusump pre-oiler will do the job, and pressure can be set to 40+ psi, but it’s not really needed. They’re really meant for what Canadian highlights (starvation for whatever reason). Dry sump is the way to go though. Cough cough.




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Damn that is a nice setup, I remember the sneak peak photos you sent a while ago. Looks great.

[arankaspar1]

So I know this is an oil thread but I posted a new thread a few days ago and no one replied.

Can someone help me with resistance readings on the low press fuel sensor and regulator on the HPFP?

A month ago I gassed it pretty hard on the freeway and the car died. Then would start and idle only for 2-3 sec. Had to tow it home now the front end is off to check for vacuum leaks as I have been hearing a whistle lately...

Pulled codes and got P310B and P2261 intermittent mal. on N249 (diverter valve).
I ran output tests on the DV and found a wiring issue.

Both located on the HPFP
LP sensor has 3 pins and regulator has 2 pins.

For pressure sensor I measured resistance from pins
1&2 2.09Kohm
1&3 4.26Kohm
2&3 2.18Kohm

For regulator (I luckily have my old pump to compare which was working good as far as I know)

Current regulator .. 1.3Ohm seems bad?
Old regulator ......... 1.2Kohm

Guessing my current regulator is bad as that is basically no resistance and doesn't match the old one.

Fuel sensor part number 06E906051K.
Regulators are 06F127025H.

[arankaspar1]

Anyone?

[arankaspar1]

Bump

[PhireSideZA]

Guys,

My car is currently halfway between an 06A to 06F conversion. The 1.8T pump was installed, but the initial plan with my mechanic was that a plate was going to be fashioned to adapt the plastic housing to the block, the idea being that a relief valve from the 1.8T housing would be installed into the plate to reduce oil pressure to acceptable levels. Unfortunately this never came to fruition so I am currently in limbo and I have three options:

1) Remove the 06A pump and reinstall the original pump, deleting the balance shafts or installing a freewheel kit. IDK if my original oil pump is good...I don't trust it.
2) Complete the conversion by sourcing an adapter plate, 1.8T housing and the necessary pipes for coolant and oil (lots of $$$ since our exchange rate is shite), or
3) Finish milling the adapter plate myself and using that to reduce pressure, thereby going with a hybrid system.

It dawned upon me that there exists also the 06D filter housing (PN: 06D115397J), which is present on the 2.0FSI engines. It seems as if this housing has provision for a relief valve, and the only other difference I can spot is that the breather pipe that goes back to the block looks a bit different and that the oil pressure sender is in a slightly different location:



Am I barking up the wrong tree thinking that this housing might fit with minimal modification as well? Or is there maybe a common flaw that I am overlooking?

EDIT: Scratch that idea, I see there are some minor differences where the block mates with the filter housing so it probably won't work

[Jayz691]

Id just get a used pump off ebay, inspect it all, throw a wasa freewheel on it, and be done. Thats what I did, simple..

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[PhireSideZA]

Id just get a used pump off ebay, inspect it all, throw a wasa freewheel on it, and be done. Thats what I did, simple..

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Jay,

I meant to reply to you but it slipped my mind, and when I came across this post again I wanted to explain my reasoning.

Sitting at the southern tip of Africa we get absolutely shafted when it comes to any imported items, that's if they even arrive and don't get lost or stolen en route to us. I've lost about 75% of parcels from overseas sites destined for me, which is easy enough to sort with eBay buyer protection, but the time delay that it adds to replace missing items becomes a logistical nightmare. Of course we do have local refurb/2nd hand parts available, however the few that I have come across were very suspect and I didn't want to take the chance on something that could leave me in the lurch in the near future, especially as we are expecting our firstborn due before the end of October this year.

What I ended up doing was buying the housing for an FSI motor (Audi PN: 06D115397J) which I managed to pick up for the equivalent of US$100 and took the top part off my old TFSI housing and mated them together with a flexible permanent adhesive called Sikaflex 221. That way, I had the FSI body with a TFSI hat, so to speak. The FSI 'hat' wouldn't fit on our engines for two reasons - number one is that the breather on our motors comes out horizontally and the one on the FSI housing comes out vertically, which would interfere with our intake manifold design.

The second reason is that the 'hat' on ours is chamfered slightly to clear the housing for one of the motors connected to the manifold itself, so swapping it out allowed me to mount the stock FSI housing in place with very little modification. The only other change I had to do was to extend the wiring for the oil pressure sensor, which now sits on the front of the housing towards the side of the car instead of facing rearwards like on the TFSI housing.

My father in law assisted me with all of this during last week and when tested, we had oil pressure of just over 60 psi on a cold start, settling down to ~25psi on warm idle and ramping up to about 65psi at 4000rpm. The only change was that the FSI housing has a built-in valve that dumps the excess oil back into the crank case. I'm still within my 1000km running-in period, but so far it looks really promising and I am hoping that it could be a viable solution/alternative to the 1.8T housing modification for those who want a stock look.

I'll definitely update as time goes on as I could not find anyone else that has attempted something like this before, but I'm cautiously optimistic that it should be a viable solution to those wanting to run the 1.8T pump with the plastic housing.

Some pics below for those that are interested...

FSI housing to block mounting. Slightly different to the TFSI housing, but it mates up 100%:



The headless old TFSI housing:



Mocking up the sizes to make sure I sanded the housing and hat off enough to ensure a good fit:



Modification done:



Close up of the valve housing (looks like a T70 would fit. Could probably put some spacers/washers here to alter the relief pressure)

[tommyf]

If it helps I had the 1.8 oil pump conversion done but I kept the stock 2.0 oil housing and have had no issues with oil pressure and I have roughly 150k on the motor.


vizi

It has been a few years since this post. Could you share your perspective on the 1.8 oil pump conversion?