ECS Valved Exhaust | Battery drain | Tapping

[gmurom]

Hello everyone,

Since the main thread is closed I had to create this one. On the last pages, there was a discussion going on how to tap the exhaust controller so it works only when the ignition is ON instead of using a positive battery's terminal which drains it out in 4-7 days.

I've tried to follow instructions in a post over there:

On the right side cubby (passenger side), there’s gonna be a fuse box once you take the cubby off. What you’re after is the row of red fuses. Underneath that row are wires that connect to them— find the wire that’s black with a purple line and cut part of the insulation off. Then wire the positive wire of the ECS module to the exposed black and purple wire and seal it up with some electrical tape. After that just find a ground and you’re done, I just grounded it to the tie down latch closest to the cubby and it worked fine.

I used the first part of this audio thread: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ier-Add-On-DIY

I've reached the fuse box and there was no row with red fuses, hence no black-purple wire to tap to. (Pic attached)

Do you know any other wires in the trunk which are safe to tap to? I have an airlift compressor running there as well. It has some wires but I'm not sure which one I can use.

Thanks!

[gmurom]

Ended up tapping into the cig lighter fuse (second row on the pic, yellow 20amp fuse). Works fine as of now.

[BIH2]

Ended up tapping into the cig lighter fuse (second row on the pic, yellow 20amp fuse). Works fine as of now.

I have the ECS Exhaust, i didn't turn on my car for 5 days, when I came back home and turned on the car, the battery was completely dead...I guess this is why ....

[gmurom]

I have the ECS Exhaust, i didn't turn on my car for 5 days, when I came back home and turned on the car, the battery was completely dead...I guess this is why ....

Yep. I think it completely killed my OEM battery (it was already old at that time but still worked fine).

Tbh I wouldn't recommend anybody to buy ECS exhaust. For $2k get AWE and embed valves into it. Will be cheaper and far superior quality. The best thing from the entire ECS exhaust is valves (which don't outweigh all disadvantages).

[BIH2]

Yep. I think it completely killed my OEM battery (it was already old at that time but still worked fine).

Tbh I wouldn't recommend anybody to buy ECS exhaust. For $2k get AWE and embed valves into it. Will be cheaper and far superior quality. The best thing from the entire ECS exhaust is valves (which don't outweigh all disadvantages).

ECS is saying as long as you turn off the car with the valves CLOSED , your fine, battery wont drain

[gmurom]

ECS is saying as long as you turn off the car with the valves CLOSED , your fine, battery wont drain

If they were selling this exhaust for $500 I might live with that and find my way to resolve this issue. But for 2k and living in the 21st century, it's ridiculous to follow such conditions.

[STRMTRPRS4]

Good luck with this. I got rid of my ecs exhaust after a month of Unnecessary headaches. Couldn’t be more happier with my awe touring set up or even my stock exhaust with IE DPs. For ecs’s price there should be a battery drainage issue.

[nunzo]

Trying to get my exhaust back to full functionality after it killing my battery over the course of a year while wired directly to the battery.

I bought a fuse tap and connected to the power wire on the exhaust controller. Rear fuse box, red section, removed the 15amp rear cigarette lighter fuse and replaced with the tap.

Turned the car on fully, neither remote activates the valves.

Does this require a hardwired connection or would the remotes somehow lose pairing after not being used for a year?

[nunzo]

bump

[ValidatedS4]

I left my remotes unused for a year and they still worked after I got my system back up and running as well. You sure the antenna on the unit in the truck is still working? Have you tried to press the remote right next to the unit in the trunk to see if distance is the issue? Are you hearing it click?

Sounds like you might have a power issue going to the unit in the trunk? Is the transmitter unit hot? I remember mine was pretty damn hot meaning it was getting power. Do you have a multi meter to make sure the tap is getting power?

Have you taken out the vacuum line going to the transmitter unit to make sure vacuum is reaching trunk (no pinched vacuum line?)

I had an issue where my vacuum line got pinched and I was not getting vacuum to the trunk.

Both remotes being dead and the receiver unit losing the signal is unlikely.

Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[nunzo]

I tried both in the cabin and in the trunk pointing at/holding the antenna. I also tried using the homelink buttons which I had programmed to the controller.

Nothing - no clicks. It does work with the power wire directly connected to the battery, but that was the cause of the drain in the first place.

I don't want to cut factory harness wiring, so I tried the fuse tap route but that doesn't seem to work.