B9 3.0 TFSI ticking/knocking sound driver side

[E.Anderson]

This is the 5w30 i use in the winter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPL8R8O...t_details&th=1

[Esmin23]

This is the 5w30 i use in the winter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPL8R8O...t_details&th=1

How has that been treating you? Still finding flakes in the oil filter?

[E.Anderson]

0-20 is what caused flakes. The cam sprockets were being eaten by the chain. did a chain service, all is good now. been 5w-40/30 metal flake free. car runs with less tick as well

[Esmin23]

0-20 is what caused flakes. The cam sprockets were being eaten by the chain. did a chain service, all is good now. been 5w-40/30 metal flake free. car runs with less tick as well

Do you run 504/507 5w30? I'm glad you got it sorted out.Looks like I'll be doing the same. Did you replace the sprockets or just the chain? Wonder what that service will run me

[E.Anderson]

I posted the link of the oil previously I run the leichtlauf 5w40 in the summer. Replaced the chain, cam gears, guides. Had to do a exploratory inspection since we didn't know where the metal was coming from, bearings were good, rockers and cams were fine. If I had it all to do over again I'd run 5w-40 in the summer and see if that kept the chain from eating the sprockets so much and if it kept eating metal I'd trade the car in. The motor ran great without any issues, just metal in the oil/filter. The parts alone will run 2k+

[DavidZ]

0-20 is what caused flakes. The cam sprockets were being eaten by the chain. did a chain service, all is good now. been 5w-40/30 metal flake free. car runs with less tick as well

Hi, I have a few questions if you don’t mind.
What’s the mileage on your car? Is it tuned? Did you get the cel?


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[Esmin23]

I posted the link of the oil previously I run the leichtlauf 5w40 in the summer. Replaced the chain, cam gears, guides. Had to do a exploratory inspection since we didn't know where the metal was coming from, bearings were good, rockers and cams were fine. If I had it all to do over again I'd run 5w-40 in the summer and see if that kept the chain from eating the sprockets so much and if it kept eating metal I'd trade the car in. The motor ran great without any issues, just metal in the oil/filter. The parts alone will run 2k+

Thanks for all of your replies. Great info. I'm going to put 5W30 in the next change and switch over to 40 in the summer. I'll get an analysis done as well.

[E.Anderson]

Hi, I have a few questions if you don’t mind.
What’s the mileage on your car? Is it tuned? Did you get the cel?
Audizine Forum

50k miles, JB4 at 20k and 034 @ 40k. A tune wouldn't have caused this kind of wear. My mechanic suspects the 0-20 oil just didn't protect the chain and sprockets. They do a bunch of DAZA RS3 builds, and they always use 5w-40 or 5w30. It's odd how the RS5 uses 5w30 but for our motor they want 0w20 for emissions.

Thanks for all of your replies. Great info. I'm going to put 5W30 in the next change and switch over to 40 in the summer. I'll get an analysis done as well.

I had an analysis done which showed no issues. It was posted here https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Flakes-In-Oil

[Esmin23]

50k miles, JB4 at 20k and 034 @ 40k. A tune wouldn't have caused this kind of wear. My mechanic suspects the 0-20 oil just didn't protect the chain and sprockets. They do a bunch of DAZA RS3 builds, and they always use 5w-40 or 5w30. It's odd how the RS5 uses 5w30 but for our motor they want 0w20 for emissions.



I had an analysis done which showed no issues. It was posted here https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Flakes-In-Oil

Oh, I meant on the new fill. I've been getting my analysis done and it's been perfect. Yet there are flakes in the filter. Ready for thicker oil

[oesman]

I don't think I've ever cut apart a filter without any flakes in it, question is how many and how big :-/. A little dust in the deep parts of the pleats is one thing, a few stray flat flakes, but if you got like palpable granules and stuff :-/. Especially anything ferrous, copper, etc.. Could definitely see a thin oil failing with the extra boost especially running back to back passes, etc... I switched to 5w40, especially since I'm going Stage 3.

[byront8]

So being based in NZ - our fuel doesn’t meet the emission standards and so oil specification is set as 5w-30.

I’m a 2018 car, so hopefully not as affected as you guys who get forced to run 0w-20


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[DavidZ]

50k miles, JB4 at 20k and 034 @ 40k. A tune wouldn't have caused this kind of wear. My mechanic suspects the 0-20 oil just didn't protect the chain and sprockets. They do a bunch of DAZA RS3 builds, and they always use 5w-40 or 5w30. It's odd how the RS5 uses 5w30 but for our motor they want 0w20 for emissions.



I had an analysis done which showed no issues. It was posted here https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Flakes-In-Oil

Thank you!

A few weeks ago, When I came to the dealer to buy engine oil, they knew I have sq5 and gave me 5w40 first. Then I told them that my car is 2018 sq5, the guy checked his computer and gave me 0w20. Not sure anything new is in 2018 sq5 engine. If no, I think 5w30 is fine.


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[E.Anderson]

I don't think I've ever cut apart a filter without any flakes in it, question is how many and how big :-/. A little dust in the deep parts of the pleats is one thing, a few stray flat flakes, but if you got like palpable granules and stuff :-/. Especially anything ferrous, copper, etc.. Could definitely see a thin oil failing with the extra boost especially running back to back passes, etc... I switched to 5w40, especially since I'm going Stage 3.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/w8WwG...?feature=share

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCCXh6ctToQ

enough to give you serious concern

[spacecase]

Im getting conflicting information. Back when I was in my A3, everyone in the GTI/R forums stated they would never run 508 0w20 oil on a tuned vehicle as the oil is too thin and would cause issues. Then I come to the B9 S4 and see people say you HAVE to run 508 spec due to the engine being a b-miller. I would prefer to switch to 5w30 weight as I'm running stage 1 e85 and this thread has me nervous running that thin of a oil. Do most people switch oil when they tune?

[oesman]

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/w8WwG...?feature=share

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCCXh6ctToQ

enough to give you serious concern

Definitely had some chunks in there, not insane but definitely showing some wear, how bad were the sprockets and guides when you tore apart? To me this looks like something that would likely be improved with thicker oil if running hard (i.e. tuned, more power with e85, etc...) and would probably have just stopped wearing. Granted if the wear was bad then it would have likely continued due to the damaged surfaces.

[E.Anderson]

PXL_20220524_183510559.jpg not terrible. I'd agree and would suggest to anyone that they try thicker oil before tearing the motor out, but once the motor was already out I might as well replace the worn parts. My filter is clean now after 5k miles so I'm pretty confident this was the culprit

[oesman]

I'd agree and would suggest to anyone that they try thicker oil before tearing the motor out, but once the motor was already out I might as well replace the worn parts. My filter is clean now after 5k miles so I'm pretty confident this was the culprit

Yea if I had it out already I'd swap for sure.

I did personally cut up one of my filters on 0w20 and saw some aluminum dust in the crevices of the pleats, maybe a dozen or so small stray aluminum flakes, at 4k miles on the oil. Not scary, but a bit more than one would like to see. Switched to 5w40 about 500 miles ago, took the filter out to inspect it with a light and by pushing the pleats apart carefully. I didn't see anything except a single small flake. Hard to see dust in the crevices so I'll cut that one apart at 4k miles too. I think if you have a bone stock car in a normal climate it's likely fine to stay on 0w20. That factory Castrol oil is a high end oil. It has great resistance to shear forces, detergent composition, etc... I'm just doing back to back 1/4 mile rips in Houston with a tune and mods. Definitely no go for stage 3 on the 0w20 as that's just going to be even more heat and abuse. Much the same way the stock intercooler would be bad too.

[CinnamonToast]

50k miles, JB4 at 20k and 034 @ 40k. A tune wouldn't have caused this kind of wear. My mechanic suspects the 0-20 oil just didn't protect the chain and sprockets. They do a bunch of DAZA RS3 builds, and they always use 5w-40 or 5w30. It's odd how the RS5 uses 5w30 but for our motor they want 0w20 for emissions.



I had an analysis done which showed no issues. It was posted here https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Flakes-In-Oil

You only did one oil analysis and had no baseline for your specific car. It's about trends, not single data points.

[DavidZ]

My sq5 have been in dealer’s garage for 2 days. They still cannot figure out where the ticking comes from.
I will keep updating its status here.


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[oesman]

You only did one oil analysis and had no baseline for your specific car. It's about trends, not single data points.

You are definitely right that trends are the way to go. That being said these labs do aggregate data from engines they see, so they are able to offer some insight on how your engine compares to what they see. Trends are of course the best way, but for example when I did my first oil analysis ever I had just started buying unleaded race fuel for my other car from a vendor that would fill my 54 gal barrels from a large tank. Well the analysis came back showing lead in my oil. The lab was like "we never see lead on pump gas in these engines, this engine has no lead components" and yea... they had contaminated unleaded race gas with leaded race gas... Switched to a vendor that sells me sealed barrels and no more lead. So while trends are good to confirm, you can get info from them even without a trend.

[E.Anderson]

Yes it's nice that blackstone provides a baseline/average of all EA839 motors so you can get an idea of where your levels should be...ballpark

[DavidZ]

I got my sq5 back from the dealer. They didn’t find anything wrong in the engine. I asked the technician if I can use 5w30. He answered yes for summer, 0w20 is still the best choice in winter as the temperature is very low in Canada.


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[SQM3]

https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/...ges_022317.pdf

Under my 2018 SQ5 hood calls for 508/509…Audi at one point recommended “Use synthetic oil SAE 5W-40, SAE 5W-30 or SAE 0W-40” but then decided 0W-20 in later publications likely for MPG. Go figure. For most normal drivers (bone stock) that occasionally give it a go on the on-ramp, 0W-20 will suffice. It’s become the new standard now for many cars. On track days (Audi even recommends this) or if you tune and beat the hell out of it, use heavier oil.

As for the noise, it sounds like my car. Wouldn’t hurt to use heavier oil either to see if it sounds better as 0W-20 is overkill anyways unless you live in Siberia.

[jomacarpe]

Just purchased b9 s5 couple weeks ago, started to notice pretty loud ticking sound when accelerating, mostly audible on low RPMs around 1000-1500 with opened window when passing a wall on the left side of the car or in tunnel. I can still hear it to around 2500 RPM, then exhaust becomes louder. Sound is very similar to injectors ticking or hpfp, but very loud, more like diesel cars.

I tried revving car with opened hood to the same RPMs - I can hear nothing when car is not moving, engine works quietly. Engine was inspected, everything is fine, no fault codes etc. Sound appears both on cold or hot car, just every time accelerating on low rpms. Running RON98 fuel.

I found a lot of threads on this topic, looks like this is a common issue, but no one actually posted a video with his exact sound, so I decided to start a new thread. Just trying to find out is my ticking the same as a lot of owners mentioned in previous threads or mine is another.

Hi @Vladok, do you know the origin of the noise?

Thanks

[S4Fin]

Hey David, I’m in CT and have a 2018 S4 with 77k and it makes a lot of ticking under load as well.

It goes away when I let off the gas, and I’m not entirely sure on how an engine works (the insides atleast) but I’d imagine it isn’t rockers because if the cars at 2k RPMs whether my foots on the gas or not, the rockers are still moving yes?

Either way, you described it to a T, and I’ve heard from an Audi Master Tech that it can be the flex pipes on the car, that eventually go, and even when you replace them they make the same sound eventually.

My other guess is the Soundaktor behind the firewall in the engine bay. I pulled fuse #5, but if it’s still connected by throttle response then possibly the clicking is just a blatant noise it’s making now that the actual volume is off.

I’m just grasping at straws for it not to be internal engine failure.

Any update on your car?

[krypt0]

S4Fin: my 2019 S4 makes same ticking/rattling noise. 99.9% sure it’s fine.

Only started hearing it after oil change at Audi Dealership (Audicare)
They used the “recommended” weight oil, which is pretty light.

I’m very confident the noise will go away after next oil change when I use heavier weight oil.

TLDR: if the ticking noise bothers you, use different engine oil (5W30 or similar)

[DavidZ]

Hey David, I’m in CT and have a 2018 S4 with 77k and it makes a lot of ticking under load as well.

It goes away when I let off the gas, and I’m not entirely sure on how an engine works (the insides atleast) but I’d imagine it isn’t rockers because if the cars at 2k RPMs whether my foots on the gas or not, the rockers are still moving yes?

Either way, you described it to a T, and I’ve heard from an Audi Master Tech that it can be the flex pipes on the car, that eventually go, and even when you replace them they make the same sound eventually.

My other guess is the Soundaktor behind the firewall in the engine bay. I pulled fuse #5, but if it’s still connected by throttle response then possibly the clicking is just a blatant noise it’s making now that the actual volume is off.

I’m just grasping at straws for it not to be internal engine failure.

Any update on your car?

The dealer didn’t show me the pics of the metal chips that were found in the oil pan and oil filter. But they decided to replace the long block.
No more ticking during the running now.


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[S4Fin]

The dealer didn’t show me the pics of the metal chips that were found in the oil pan and oil filter. But they decided to replace the long block.
No more ticking during the running now.


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Sorry I'm a bit new here. So essentially they claimed there was nothing wrong when inspecting the internals of your engine, but decided to replace the long block? That's pretty good!

[CELison]

Sorry I'm a bit new here. So essentially they claimed there was nothing wrong when inspecting the internals of your engine, but decided to replace the long block? That's pretty good!

Metal in the bottom of the oil pan and filter is something wrong with engine internals.

[DavidZ]

Metal in the bottom of the oil pan and filter is something wrong with engine internals.

It is funny that there is another weird noise after replacing the long block.
The noise sounds like something is shaking or ticking only after 20 minutes high way driving.
It always happens when I drive more than 20 minutes and step on the gas pedal on highway.
I have to bring it in another time.


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[Vali123]

The dealer didn’t show me the pics of the metal chips that were found in the oil pan and oil filter. But they decided to replace the long block.
No more ticking during the running now.


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Update from my end, I had the same. The dealership then found aluminium shavings in the oil, and ended up getting a new long block.

Oil changes were always done by the dealership under Audi care (0w20). After the new engine, no more noise.

Making me wander what oil to use on the new block...

[QuickHandCam]

Update from my end, I had the same. The dealership then found aluminium shavings in the oil, and ended up getting a new long block.

Oil changes were always done by the dealership under Audi care (0w20). After the new engine, no more noise.

Making me wander what oil to use on the new block...

Use oil instead of water this time /s

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[Tarn]

did anyone on this thread actually stop hearing the ticking after using a different oil like 5W-40?

[Turbo_Racer]

did anyone on this thread actually stop hearing the ticking after using a different oil like 5W-40?

No