CV axles

[bluetori]

Hello, so my 09 Avant finally needs from axles, lots of clicking. So I was curious if newer model years work, I found some '14 year models and they had low mileage but I am having trouble confirming they fit. Some say '12 and newer?

Thanks for any info.

[lorduvtherings]

Why not just get new ones? Used cv axles?


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[Zuzuwu]

I’m going to say the 6 speed and 8 speed cars use different axles.
I also don’t see why you would buy used axles? Just buy new, they’re like $100 at any parts store and come with a warranty


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[SchaedyAvant]

You can get great remanufactured OEM parts from raxles or get the GKN parts for not much more than a used one that might also fail. Great experience with raxles personally.

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[Smac770]

Rather than replace an outer CV joint boot, it was only $99 to pick up a used axle and just swap it out in a few minutes (7 bolts, in/out).

While I imagine all the axles are physically interchangeable (so long as both sides are the same kind), there are actually several different axles used on the B8 era A4 products:

2.0T FWD, 3.0T quattro, until Nov 7 '11
8K0 407 271 Q / 8K0 407 451 DX
29.5 / 104.5x10x1.0 / 34.7x10x0.8 -- 34.0x10x0.8 / 94.0x10x1.0 / 27.8x1.7 / 25.4x1.2

2.0T FWD, 3.0T quattro, after Nov 7 '11 (including B8.5)
8K0 407 271 AJ / 8K0 407 451 LX
27.8 / 98.5x10x1.0 / 35.5x10x0.8 -- 34.0x10x0.8 / 94.0x10x1.0 / 27.8x1.7 / 25.4x1.2

2.0T quattro, B8.0
8K0 407 271 P / 8K0 407 451 FX
27.0 / 92.5x10x1.0 / 31.0x10x0.8 -- 32.5x10x0.8 / 91.0x10x1.0 / 26.0x1.5 / 23x1.2

2.0T quattro, B8.5
8K0 407 271 AL
27.0 / 89.5x10x1.0 / 33.5x10x0.8 -- 32.5x10x0.8 / 90.5x10x1.0 / 26.0x1.5 / 23x1.2

The sizes are for the clips and clamps on the axle, from outer end to inner end:
outer joint circlip / outer boot joint clamp / outer boot shaft clamp -- inner boot shaft clamp / inner boot joint clamp / inner joint outer circlip / inner joint inner circlip

There are other ones out there too, like 271 R for 2.0T FWD 1BR (rough roads), etc. But the ones above would be the ones relevant to US market. The one that came off my MY09 Aug '08 build was 271 P.

[Smac770]

I would only buy new Audi OE or GKN OEM (GKN makes the ones Audi uses). Knock offs will just having you replacing CV joints. People do seem to stand by Raxle remans (https://www.raxles.com/).

https://wolfautoparts.com/cv-axle-sh...p-ps20503.html
$20 less than the one I bought from them some time back.

This is the only new one I would buy: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...gkn-8k0407271p
https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem...bly-8k0407271p, $1100 for an OE axle? I don't think so.
At only $270 and with FCP's warranty, kind of hard to pass that up. But I don't know what a raxles reman would cost you.

[bluetori]

Yeah, I was figuring it would be that way having a bunch of options. I'm at nearly 170k on the original ones I think I'm just going to order some GKN and be done with it. Thanks for the info.

[cuda2000]

I bought the GKN 8k04407271p and the boot started leaking on the outer smaller shaft side within 3 months. Seems the clamp is not clamping hard enough. I tried clamping it harder but it was already maximum clamped. For $300+ I expected the boot to not leak... Guess I'll send it back for lifetime warranty but the next one better not leak!

[dalmation53]

Rather than replace an outer CV joint boot, it was only $99 to pick up a used axle and just swap it out in a few minutes (7 bolts, in/out).

While I imagine all the axles are physically interchangeable (so long as both sides are the same kind), there are actually several different axles used on the B8 era A4 products:

2.0T FWD, 3.0T quattro, until Nov 7 '11
8K0 407 271 Q / 8K0 407 451 DX
29.5 / 104.5x10x1.0 / 34.7x10x0.8 -- 34.0x10x0.8 / 94.0x10x1.0 / 27.8x1.7 / 25.4x1.2

2.0T FWD, 3.0T quattro, after Nov 7 '11 (including B8.5)
8K0 407 271 AJ / 8K0 407 451 LX
27.8 / 98.5x10x1.0 / 35.5x10x0.8 -- 34.0x10x0.8 / 94.0x10x1.0 / 27.8x1.7 / 25.4x1.2

2.0T quattro, B8.0
8K0 407 271 P / 8K0 407 451 FX
27.0 / 92.5x10x1.0 / 31.0x10x0.8 -- 32.5x10x0.8 / 91.0x10x1.0 / 26.0x1.5 / 23x1.2

2.0T quattro, B8.5
8K0 407 271 AL
27.0 / 89.5x10x1.0 / 33.5x10x0.8 -- 32.5x10x0.8 / 90.5x10x1.0 / 26.0x1.5 / 23x1.2

The sizes are for the clips and clamps on the axle, from outer end to inner end:
outer joint circlip / outer boot joint clamp / outer boot shaft clamp -- inner boot shaft clamp / inner boot joint clamp / inner joint outer circlip / inner joint inner circlip

There are other ones out there too, like 271 R for 2.0T FWD 1BR (rough roads), etc. But the ones above would be the ones relevant to US market. The one that came off my MY09 Aug '08 build was 271 P.

smac sometimes i really wonder if you are not human an are an audi wikipedia lmao where do you find so much info bro lol

[adm750]

smac sometimes i really wonder if you are not human an are an audi wikipedia lmao where do you find so much info bro lol

I've actually been wondering that myself.

[dalmation53]

When my b8 needed an axle i bought A used OEM on ebay forn$70 bucks and called it a day. Autoparts axles will cause vibrations ask me how i know. Been through that twice on my b7 and b8 and cause vibrations in highspeed.

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[captain_video]

I’m going to say the 6 speed and 8 speed cars use different axles.
I also don’t see why you would buy used axles? Just buy new, they’re like $100 at any parts store and come with a warranty


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And they're all crap made in China that might last a week or a year if you're lucky. I had one literally fall apart in my hands while trying to install it in a '99 Passat.

The way I see it, you have several choices to replace a leaking or noisy CV joint.

1. If it's just leaking, you can replace the worn boot with a new one or

2. Replace the axle with a junkyard axle or

3. Buy a cheap knockoff made in China and roll the dice that it will last a while, or

4. Get a rebuilt axle from raxles.com or

5. Replace the outer joint and boot with a new GKN joint kit.

Considering the labor involved, the least amount of work is to simply swap out the axle with a used one, cheap Chinese axle (be prepared to do this frequently until you learn your lesson), or a rebuilt one from Raxles. Just swapping the boot with a new one really makes no sense since chances are the joint will be worn from lack of lubrication so it's best to just replace the joint. It's not that difficult as long as you have the right tools. If you place the axle in a vise so it's horizontal, cut off the old boot to expose the star cage in the joint. Place the end of a brass drift on the star cage as close to the axle as possible and parallel to the axle. Get a short-handled sledge hammer (2-3 pound hammer works great) and give it one or two good whacks. The joint will pop right off. Don't even think about trying to use a regular carpenter's hammer. You'll beat it until your arms fall off and it won't even budge. Make sure you wear old clothes because the joint grease will ruin whatever you're wearing and doesn't come out in the wash.

[WHT13AR]

And they're all crap made in China that might last a week or a year if you're lucky. I had one literally fall apart in my hands while trying to install it in a '99 Passat.

The way I see it, you have several choices to replace a leaking or noisy CV joint.

1. If it's just leaking, you can replace the worn boot with a new one or

2. Replace the axle with a junkyard axle or

3. Buy a cheap knockoff made in China and roll the dice that it will last a while, or

4. Get a rebuilt axle from raxles.com or

5. Replace the outer joint and boot with a new GKN joint kit.

Considering the labor involved, the least amount of work is to simply swap out the axle with a used one, cheap Chinese axle (be prepared to do this frequently until you learn your lesson), or a rebuilt one from Raxles. Just swapping the boot with a new one really makes no sense since chances are the joint will be worn from lack of lubrication so it's best to just replace the joint. It's not that difficult as long as you have the right tools. If you place the axle in a vise so it's horizontal, cut off the old boot to expose the star cage in the joint. Place the end of a brass drift on the star cage as close to the axle as possible and parallel to the axle. Get a short-handled sledge hammer (2-3 pound hammer works great) and give it one or two good whacks. The joint will pop right off. Don't even think about trying to use a regular carpenter's hammer. You'll beat it until your arms fall off and it won't even budge. Make sure you wear old clothes because the joint grease will ruin whatever you're wearing and doesn't come out in the wash.

If you want to swap them once and you dont have the tools** to rebuild them yourself, #4 is your answer. If you opt for #5, **I would make sure to have a hydraulic press at hand. I tried to hammer mine, yes with a BFH, and they wouldnt budge. And even in the press, I had to hold pressure on them for a minute or so before they popped, and it was loud! Bent an old ARP head bolt! Ditto on the grease, it gets everywhere and ruins everything it touches. Spent several hours cleaning up.

[Raj1471]

+1 on Raxles...I replaced both front axles with remanufactured ones and was quite happy dealing with Marty at Raxles.

[Arctic_Audi]

I made the mistake of trying Rock Auto outer couplings and boots to rebuild my front shafts. The coupling was so tight I couldn't move it by hand after packing with grease. I didn't think that was going to last long at highway speeds so I aborted mission. Instead I disassembled the original outer couplings, inspected all the balls, spider, and coupling. It looked fine so I repacked with new grease and installed new boots and reinstalled them. Worked like a charm and wasn't overly difficult. A mini-sledge and a brass punch on the inner spider popped the coupling off. I did the inner boots/grease while I had them apart.
The original problem was cracked outer boots, grease leakage, and minor clicking in a slow turn.