Selling a 2010 CAEB motor I am rebuilding...

[Spaceboy3000]

I ended up with a leftover CAEB motor from a 2010 A4. The timing chain jumped a tooth or two, and the only damage was 2 intake valves in cylinder #1. The cylinder bores, cylinder head, and camshafts, are all just fine.
I figured I would rebuild it and sell it, considering that a decent number of people online seem to be looking for running motors.

What would you sell a rebuilt motor like this for? It looks like asking prices range all over the place. I am hoping to sell the motor locally so I don't have to arrange shipping etc.

(THE REBUILD: New Kolbenschmidt "AM" piston set, with updated rings, new KS con rod and crank bearings. I'm using a good used set of valves from another 2011 A4 motor. All the valves have been lapped and checked for leaks. Then put back together with new stretch bolts for the con rods and crankshaft and flywheel, updated timing kit, and all related seals and proper sealants and assembly lube etc.). Every part of this rebuild has been documented with photos.). I rebuilt the motor in my 2011 A4 Quattro this way a year ago and all is well 4000 miles later.

Anybody have experience doing this? Thoughts?

[Shane Horning]

That's a great idea however idk if id buy an eng with Ks parts. The rod bearings are not very good I've found out the hard way

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[Veedubber12]

That's a great idea however idk if id buy an eng with Ks parts. The rod bearings are not very good I've found out the hard way

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IIRC from a thread I read in the not so distant past, the AM pistons are 21mm and should be good to use with the OEM rods on a 2010 CAEB. But OP is doing the rods too it seems.

[Spaceboy3000]

Thanks - I hadn't heard that about KS bearings, so I'll look into that! What happened with yours? And whose bearings would you use?

[Spaceboy3000]

I AM using the original 21mm wrist pin connecting rods - just with new bearings. That's also why I'm using the somewhat updated AM-style pistons - because KS doesn't make/sell the newer DM style pistons (with the waffle-style oil rings) for 21mm pins. Another option I'm thinking about too would be to use a kit they sell that also comes with a new set of 23mm KS rods for the DM pistons. Even that kit only costs less than $400. All of this is through a seller on Ebay that I've used before and trust so I'm not very worried about counterfeits. (This doesn't address the brand of bearings to use though....)

[Shane Horning]

Thanks - I hadn't heard that about KS bearings, so I'll look into that! What happened with yours? And whose bearings would you use?

They are soft and seem to vary from side to side thickness. Had to pull a rebuild apart for another issue and had 8k miles on the ks bearings and they were badly worn with very inconsistent wear. Also the reason I pulled it apart was for low compression and it had updated waffle ks pistons installed 8k previous. The piston was melted along the one side. Now here's the catch. It was a stage 2 apr b8.5 and they are know to melt stock oem pistons. Have seen it a half dozen times so now I use forged rods and pistons will coated acl rod bearings and oem mains. This has been proven to work, engines run smoother and no oil consumption

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[Spaceboy3000]

Thanks, Shane. Sorry it took a while to respond! That's good info about stock pistons vs. APR stage 2. And I am re-using the stock Audi 21mm rods (Veedubber12).

Thanks!