DSC Sport Active Suspension Controller

[McTTRS]

Then within 5 minutes of the update, was going WOT to get on the tollway by my house and seemingly every warning light/message came on.

I have updated the DSC unit a half a dozen times or so without issue so based on my experience the two events may be totally unrelated.

Edit - I contacted DSC with your post and they said "Thanks for the info. I change calibration files all the time on DSC controllers and have not experienced what that user described. It is possible that he did something different that caused the suspension controller to freeze. In saldom cases, I have heard of people doing ECU flash that's followed by a hard reboot that draws a lot of battery power which can freeze the suspension controller if the battery itself isn't fully charged or in excellent condition to begin with. That user should contact us ([email protected]) for diagnosis..."

[DrMerl]

Doubt if it’s related but can’t help to have that feeling cause only thing I did was update my DSC controller as suggested by DrMerl. To get that bounce/caddy out of the comfort made.

Then within 5 minutes of the update, was going WOT to get on the tollway by my house and seemingly every warning light/message came on.

Steering malfunction, speed control systems, safety systems, esc, abs, headlights, homelink didn’t work to get back in my garage.

Lol, not a Sunday funday for me.

I take it nobody has experienced any of this after updating?


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Woah, never any problems while working with the DSC controller. Can do changes on the fly, car running or not. The only time you'd turn on the ignition, but not engine, is right before you reset ride height. This allows the sensors to power up, you will get one engine symbol check light after this. Turn off ignition and all good.

Check the USB cable, maybe it got pinched and has shorted slightly to freak out the bus. Make sure the OEM connector is seated properly and no pins are bent. Gotta unbolt and tilt the seat back to get enough access to see. I leave the USB cable connected and tucked under the seat.

[ZTTRS]

Received, installed and tested a DSC Sport Controller in my 2019 TT RS with OEM mag ride suspension and OEM 20's with non run flat Pilot Sport 4S

Ladies and gentlemen, this is the real deal.

I started with comfort mode. It was a noticeable different driving down the hill from our neighborhood 1.25 miles to the main road. Around town at 45 MPH and below, its very compliant. It surprised me, really does ride better.
Road noise is the same and you still feel the little bumps. It's a sports car. However, the suspension articulates way more than OEM. At higher speeds, it "floats" as some say.
It feels like it squats under braking. Speed bumps at parking lot speeds are no where near as harsh.
I could tell the difference between comfort and dynamic.
Dynamic mode feels similar to OEM comfort but with more suspension travel.
I have more miles to drive to evaluate and acclimate to the differences. To me, it's worth it for the ride improvement alone.

are you saying the car still floats with DSC controller at high speeds??

[Cyttorak]

Dropped my car off this morning at the dealership ( got a great 20+ year relationship with them, service manager and shop foreman ) for them to look at the car. Tonight they said the car is throwing out all sorts of suspension/wheel error codes. I emailed [email protected] (thanks McTTRS) and copied the shop foreman on it, he knows about the DSC controller. So he can give him all the errors that are coming up and really preventing the car from being driveable.

I've got no ecu/tcu tunes. This controller is the first thing I've put on the car that does anything software related. I take that back, the shop foreman retro'd the TPMS system on my 18'. There was a bit of programming to do there. (thanks averybadman)

Anyways, it would appear it is related to the DSC controller. Hopefully know more tomorrow.

[Cyttorak]

Anybody else who's running a DSC controller also using Carlinkit Wireless carplay adapter? The shop foreman was asking if I connected to or changed something via bluetooth at a specific time/date, which would have been @ when I started up my car after changing the controller settings. After starting the car, a menu comes up to connect to the wireless adapter via bluetooth, then 3 min later I took the picture of all the warning lights coming on. Who knows what the connection is, if any. DSC asked me to send the controller back to them. But curious is anybody is running a wireless carplay adapter and the DSC controller in tandem?

[Cyttorak]

Another update. It’s has been in the car so long forgot but using a waylens horizon dash cam that has a dongle plugged into the OBD II port. It feeds the cam real-time info like speed, gps, weather, pitch, etc via Bluetooth continuously for overlaying on the video. DSC is saying you if you have more than one aftermarket device connected to the CAN, which both the controller and cam are pulling a lot of the same data, issues will ensue.

This is most likely the cause of my issues.


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[DrMerl]

Adding a bit of info after some testing.

Using the latest config file. I tried turning off G-Comf (set G-Rate Max value to zero) for a while and realized how nice G-Comf is. With Track settings the car rides pretty hard with no G-Comf, a bit much for sloppy streets. Added to Reb Med, Reb High for front only, seeing if I can smooth out some of the high speed nose bob. That was too much, lost some ability to control bumps while cornering (these are freeway sweepers, ramps). This was no fun at WOT.

Reloaded my previous testing file that has G-Comf enabled, aahhh much better =) I'm after confident handling for highways, any speed. I prefer well dampened ride, but not bouncy.

Chassis Track - G-Comfort - Default Rate : 15, Sensitivity : 10, G Rate Max : 14 - all other settings original from newest file.

This yielded a great freeway cruise, smooth, steady acceleration, it's not wandering all over and handles rises and bumps well.

Hope we get more peeps sharing config settings.

Also, when you level the travel sensors, the dialog box numbers are in HEX. I thought it was some indication of a bad shock (front right) because of the delta between the other settings, emailed them and got sorted.

[Cyttorak]

Just spent several hours trying to get the bounce out in comfort on the highway. Going to give your settings a shot.


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[Palmermc]

Any luck getting rid of the bounce?

[Cyttorak]

Any luck getting rid of the bounce?

Nope. I sold my controller.


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[rex_racer]

Any luck getting rid of the bounce?

I have a S3 with upgraded spring rates, 500/500 vs stock 350/400 and have found that it takes a LOT more rebound and compression to steady the car compared to what the mapping that is delivered with the unit. I still don't have it perfect, but its getting better. The factory G map also adds in way too much additional shock force for minute adjustments which makes tuning even more difficult and can really make it not great on a variety of street settings. Remapping that has made a significant difference.

[Palmermc]

Can you tell us more about your settings?

[rex_racer]

Can you tell us more about your settings?

My approach to getting it working correctly is to first remove all the ancillary settings that could be adding additional mA to the shocks, so I've zero-ed out steering angle, braking and acceleration. For the G table I've set it so that it takes .6G before applying additional strength and even when it hits 1G it is only delivering an additional 3%. The DSC base file delivers a LOT of additional mA for very small directional changes. If you have a G meter on the car, or can drive any car with a G meter, you'll find that hitting .2-.4G takes almost no effort at all and is well within regular driving norms. This can make testing really hard when just breathing on the throttle throws you in to a new map. I've also been changing the mA range on the shock calibration. I'm aiming to minimize how much offset is needed on the Velocity table so that when you do add more active mA to the G table, the shocks don't spike to a high mA and kill ride quality/grip.

Low speed has greatest impact on how the car rolls left to right when cornering. Medium speed has a greater effect on acceleration and deceleration forces. Bumps are really handled by high speed damping. You can use the 3 settings to essentially create a dyno chart.

As I've changed my shock calibration, much higher base than the DSC file, the settings throughout the tool don't really make a difference. You really need to calculate out how many mA are being delivered at x velocity under y conditions. My setup is still very much under construction, but I feel like I'm making positive ground now. I also felt very much like I had made a mistake for quite some time. Due to my high spring rates, it's never going to ride as smooth as stock, I'll go back and test to get the car to ride smoother after I figure out how much mA needs to be delivered to ride decently. With 500/500 rates I'm at about 785mA front and 815mA rear for high speed compression, 935mA front and 955mA rear for high speed rebound.

The controller is far more effective for softer spring rates. You can really use the G meter, and input sensors to mimic a much stiffer spring through the shocks. With stiffer springs, the additive values from G and inputs can only make things stiffer, so there's less to gain. I have not tested with a low base rate and high value offsets for the velocity table, so maybe there is hope to make it a little smoother.

[MESOGLEA]

I've lost my patience with this thing. I'm reinstalling the factory controller tomorrow.
I removed the ancillary settings for dynamic and the car doesn't like that, at all. Headlight and suspension errors. Comfort and auto are fine after a restart. I have over 40 separate saved tunes for this thing and none of them dampen the front correctly.
APR and DSC are aware of the oscillation but wont do anything about it. This should never have been sold without solid tuning.
I talked up a good game about it but I was wrong.

This is an unfinished product, don't waste your money.

[DrMerl]

I've lost my patience with this thing. I'm reinstalling the factory controller tomorrow.
I removed the ancillary settings for dynamic and the car doesn't like that, at all. Headlight and suspension errors. Comfort and auto are fine after a restart. I have over 40 separate saved tunes for this thing and none of them dampen the front correctly.
APR and DSC are aware of the oscillation but wont do anything about it. This should never have been sold without solid tuning.
I talked up a good game about it but I was wrong.

This is an unfinished product, don't waste your money.

You gave it way more time than I did, lol. My initial purpose was to try and lessen the pogo effect on the stock shocks. Hit a rise/bump on a freeway and you get pogo'd up in the seat, like not enough rebound control or something. I'm familiar with digital systems, light knowledge with suspension but not enough to be a shock tuner. I dove into shock tuning basics then realized by starting with min/max settings to see how things react and going from there I could royally screw myself. I could unknowingly make changes that could make the car unpredictable or dangerous at high speed. I think the only way to tune this thing is with a selected road/track and a knowledgable passenger to make changes while driving. When I saw the variation in mA between their OTS tunes and the different strategies I thought great, this thing got a whole lot deeper. Likely a ton of R&D needed for a niche product, not worth the cost or no one available to really work on RS3/TTRS.

I'm back on the stock box. I think it does about 90% of what I'm looking for on the street. Combined with 034 mechanical suspension bits, stock program does pretty good.

Rex_racer may be barking up the right tree.

[kevin#34]

it's a pity that these controllers don't work as expected/don't are user friendly, I believe the potential is high, but if a race engineer is needed, better to stay with the stock device...

[MESOGLEA]

Replaced the unit, the OEM one is stiffer but is more confidence inspiring.
The unit and its capabilities are crazy. The tune is garbage.

[MESOGLEA]

I was writing APR about the situation and thought about this.

Has anyone adjust the values for speed based damping to increase the front more than the rear?

[DrMerl]

I was writing APR about the situation and thought about this.

Has anyone adjust the values for speed based damping to increase the front more than the rear?

Found some notes. Tom Chan sent back "Can tune SPEED table for mph damping", after I was asking him about the bounce.

Here are the mode relations to Audi.
"Modes naming:
DSC OEM Audi
Normal = Normal/Comfort
Sport = Auto
Track = Dynamic
Yes, the simplest way to make a mode softer or firmer is the Default Rate in G Comfort."

Regarding the 4_8_22_AUDI_Mag_touringNC_spot_track-Billy-READonly (not sure if this is still available - but I *think* it's the one APR may have started with) - "That is the newest file. You can try it to see if you like the new file better or the file you currently have. Read and save your current file in case you want to use it again. The engineers wanted to try a new approach. They like it. But that doesn't mean everyone else will like it...". I remember there was a mA value change in the new file. It rode ok, but still had front bounce.

The old MSS file for the springs he said was 10% stiffer. Hmm, might take the original tune (stock springs) and compare it to the MSS tune to see how they went about adding 10%.

[DrMerl]

That's true on G-comf, when it's active it's super sloppy. I always disabled it so it wouldn't be another variable when changing settings. Trimming it all the way down to .1 or .2 G (slightest left or right), still made things sloppy on steady cruising.

Their take on it is it's an Engineering product. DSC kinda mentions this, not sure about APR. Super DIY, you get a functional program with a full toolbox to make these like an 8(?) way shock, with all the complexities. Then good luck, lol. Would be nice for a shock guru to get ahold of this and translate for us. Not only do we get "mechanical" adjustments we get gyro stuff too. I give Audi props for a pretty decent OEM config.

[MESOGLEA]

After a 40 minute conversation with Tom at DSC, we haven't explored all the settings.
There are multiple ways to change the performance of the shocks. Some settings overlap, incorrect values can override the other settings.

The G comfort parameters box: (I'm using arbitrary numbers)
If your default rate is 10, the unit only applies 10% of the values in the shock calibration table. When the G forces exceed the G rate max, the unit then applies the shock calibration value in the center of the G table. If the G table starts at 30%, 10% to 30%, that's a jump in stiffness. The G comfort default rate should never meet or exceed the starting G table value. If the default rate is 25, you wouldn't feel much of a difference in ride between cruise and cornering.

The other settings pages apply an additional current value using the default rate in the calculation. Lets say the speed table adds 20% to the 10% of the shock calibration table at a stable 90 MPH cruise, 10%+20%=12%. Once you exceed the G rate max while driving at 90MPH the unit will also add 20% to the 30% value of the shock calibration or 36% of the calibration table.

I'm first staring with the shock calibration, increasing the starting current from .100 or so to .250 and leaving the 100% at 1200. This is creating a stiffer front shock, anything more than 1000 or so just adds more heat to the shocks.
Ill then adjust the speed settings starting with +10% at 60 and %40 at 150. My oscillation experience is at highway speeds, this will increase front shock stiffness as speed increases.
Specific shock calibration and rebound settings are after the oscillation correction for fine tuning.

I apologize for jumping all over the place about this, I just cant let it kick my azz.

[DrMerl]

I hear ya, you can see there's a way in the forest. Looks like the multiplicative values work kinda like Diablo 4, lol, now it'll stick in my head =)

(10*1.2) + (30*1.2) = 48% - is this plus the overall G table? or the final result?

You're raising the base amount number with mA, making a stiffer shock to begin with, then that gets additives based on different settings that deal with % ? Do you think using the mA value (Base Damage) then adding things like Speed Table (Aspects) percentages to that value might help to understand what's happening?

48%*.250 = .370mA would be theoretical "starting point" because of the G table preset values? and rebound, compression settings. Then add (other tables) or subtract (g-comf) to that value?

Exactly the area I get the oscillations too, highway.

[MESOGLEA]

I hear ya, you can see there's a way in the forest. Looks like the multiplicative values work kinda like Diablo 4, lol, now it'll stick in my head =)

(10*1.2) + (30*1.2) = 48% - is this plus the overall G table? or the final result?

You're raising the base amount number with mA, making a stiffer shock to begin with, then that gets additives based on different settings that deal with % ? Do you think using the mA value (Base Damage) then adding things like Speed Table (Aspects) percentages to that value might help to understand what's happening?

48%*.250 = .370mA would be theoretical "starting point" because of the G table preset values? and rebound, compression settings. Then add (other tables) or subtract (g-comf) to that value?

Exactly the area I get the oscillations too, highway.

Its the overall final result. It wont go past 100%, fractional increase the closer to 100%.
The G comfort default rate is the starting point based on the calibration. If you're rolling at less than the G rate max, the center G table isn't used. Its generally just the speed table affecting the default rate. Normal braking and accelerating will usually exceed G rate max. The velocity section is another +/- % at low medium and high speed suspension travel. I haven't gotten there yet. That's the fine tuning stuff.
The cruise oscillation and floaty feel at street racing highway speeds are the worst. Not much confidence.

I got to lvl50 with the necromancer and was way OP. Its cool to kick in a door and have your bones wreck the place, but I got bored with it. D2 is still the best.
I'm current on a Cyberpunk kick, I have over 500 hours in and still learning and exploring Night City. Sometimes I'll spend hours just target practicing and walking around. I think the story is stupid and Silverhand is unneeded but the city is WOW! Its my favorite game, ever.

[DrMerl]

Its the overall final result. It wont go past 100%, fractional increase the closer to 100%.
The G comfort default rate is the starting point based on the calibration. If you're rolling at less than the G rate max, the center G table isn't used. Its generally just the speed table affecting the default rate. Normal braking and accelerating will usually exceed G rate max. The velocity section is another +/- % at low medium and high speed suspension travel. I haven't gotten there yet. That's the fine tuning stuff.
The cruise oscillation and floaty feel at street racing highway speeds are the worst. Not much confidence.

I got to lvl50 with the necromancer and was way OP. Its cool to kick in a door and have your bones wreck the place, but I got bored with it. D2 is still the best.
I'm current on a Cyberpunk kick, I have over 500 hours in and still learning and exploring Night City. Sometimes I'll spend hours just target practicing and walking around. I think the story is stupid and Silverhand is unneeded but the city is WOW! Its my favorite game, ever.

cool, good info. I messed with velocity rates for a while, I could sort of tune out the oscillations that way, but that was only one aspect and I was missing the rest. I was surprised at the amount of control, from kidney shake hard to beyond Cadillac float.

Diablo noways is just finding the right combo of numbers for your play style, more of a build something and see what happens than anything else. I get a kick out of the multiple ways to achieve what you want, keeps the brain stimulated while I chill. Loved the Cyberpunk world, did a few play throughs. Idris Elba was great, I'm a fan of his mix sets. Amazing things people are doing with graphics mods, the cities are awesome.

Would be great if DSC could release a engineering type of manual of info that doesn't interfere with their IP. How different tables and sections interact with each other so you can calculate the end result with everything combined. Could be arbitrary numbers that relate but are consistent with changes.

[MESOGLEA]

cool, good info. I messed with velocity rates for a while, I could sort of tune out the oscillations that way, but that was only one aspect and I was missing the rest. I was surprised at the amount of control, from kidney shake hard to beyond Cadillac float.

I also reduced the oscillation with velocity adjustments but the car felt even worse overall. If one shock is way off, it will upset the others. We feel the front oscillate, the rear is doing the same just not as bad.
In Hawaii, I drove routes that had bumps and dips I used for tuning. We're in Italy now and I'm still learning the roads.

[rex_racer]

The G table itself is the problem if you're trying to tune. You can't turn off the G table its always on, you can only turn off the comfort map. As you've started to notice once you get out of the G comfort table the rates increase and very quickly. If you look at the stock DSC maps its making 10% changes. As you're tuning you should be able to feel a difference in 10mA, which is usually around .5-1% change depending on your shock calibration. You can hit .2-.3 G without exceeding normal driving styles. I've adjusted my G map to not change from my default G comfort value until hitting greater than .4G and even then its only increasing things by 1%. My G map is only giving an additional 3% at maximum load.

If you then look at anything the other tables offer, its giving way too much extra shock stiffness, which makes tuning really difficult to understand if you're doing anything positive, there's just too many variables. After turning everything off and simplifying the G map the car started behaving according to the tune. I'm trying a new map where the velocity tuning is the same as my old map, but changing the starting point to be half of where I was starting before. Hoping this gives more initial movement before velocity tuning jumps in and dampens.

[MESOGLEA]

I increased current to the front basically making an overall stiffer shock. The oscillation is pretty much gone. Going over dips in the road, the car drops in with less float.
It was a short ride, 50 miles.
I am much happier that this is progress. It still requires some fine tuning and such.
I usually test/tune in dynamic. Front at 200 - 1100, rear at 100 - 1100. See how that works for you.

[rex_racer]

I increased current to the front basically making an overall stiffer shock. The oscillation is pretty much gone. Going over dips in the road, the car drops in with less float.
It was a short ride, 50 miles.
I am much happier that this is progress. It still requires some fine tuning and such.
I usually test/tune in dynamic. Front at 200 - 1100, rear at 100 - 1100. See how that works for you.

Nice, progress! I normally try to throw on 3 maps at a time, 1 as a baseline that works well enough to drive with and 2 more with different settings to test out new things. Makes testing go by much quicker.

Have any of you all experienced a weird rattle with the DSC controller installed? I'm getting a rattle/jiggly-ness from the front end when the controller installed. Different settings makes no difference, but when I switch back to the OEM controller all is normal again.

[MESOGLEA]

What are your front current settings?
Mine would sound unhappy in limp mode. I assume it was cavitation from no energy into the shocks. Unsure if it will help, have you zeroed the ride height?

[rex_racer]

What are your front current settings?
Mine would sound unhappy in limp mode. I assume it was cavitation from no energy into the shocks. Unsure if it will help, have you zeroed the ride height?

I've tried starting at less than 200 mA all the way up to 1500 mA and everything in between. Zero'ed ride height and all that. Had a conversation with DSC, and they're unsure. Recommended everything I have been doing. Doing additional testing I found that as soon as I pass about 500mA the struts start making noise. The rears are fine however. I believe my front struts are damaged as I purchased them used. This project is going to have to go on hold for a bit as I decide if I want to replace them, or go with a conventional setup.

[MESOGLEA]

Verify the tune settings in all tabs in each mode.
Inspect the pins on both units and the connector.
Data logging should reveal something.
Is your unit under warranty?

Tested this today.

Comfort:
Front calibration 275-1000
Rear calibration 125-900

Auto and Dynamic:
Front calibration 275-1100
Rear calibration 125-1000

It felt much better with little to no oscillation so I'm going to use this for now. Next, I'll adjust the default rate and the G table center % in search of a smooth chassis transition between cruise and attack maneuvers.
After that, velocity adjustment of the 6-way dampers.

[rex_racer]

Verify the tune settings in all tabs in each mode.
Inspect the pins on both units and the connector.
Data logging should reveal something.
Is your unit under warranty?

Tested this today.

Comfort:
Front calibration 275-1000
Rear calibration 125-900

Auto and Dynamic:
Front calibration 275-1100
Rear calibration 125-1000

It felt much better with little to no oscillation so I'm going to use this for now. Next, I'll adjust the default rate and the G table center % in search of a smooth chassis transition between cruise and attack maneuvers.
After that, velocity adjustment of the 6-way dampers.

Did find some pins had sunk and bent. Got that squared away and that's how I then determined my issue was at about 600mA. I am quite certain its the struts as the struts were used. My rears are OEM and have no problem going up past 1000mA. I had all of my other tables turned off to get the baseline tune working first. As I'm running more spring rate, I'm going to need more rebound than compression dampening so I was already playing with the Velocity table.

Great to hear that you're having some luck now. What is your default percentage on the G comfort set to? I was playing with my OBD 11 tool and found there is a table to monitor how many mA are going to the shocks. In theory you should be able to do the same w/ Rosstech and actually get a log to get an idea of how much mA are actually going to the shocks w/ the stock controller. OBD 11 does not have data logging capability that I know of. In playing with it though, I did see spikes of over 1000mA.

[Cool_Breeze]

Hey folks! Just got my unit and stoked to finally be part of the club. :)

After some initial hiccups, I'm finally up and running with the APR file. It's surprisingly good, even with my 034 suspension mods (lowering springs, camber plates, etc.). I've made a couple of tweaks – zeroed the ride height and bumped the G comfort default rate to 10% below the base map at zero Gs. Feels pretty good cruising around town and highway, and it held up okay during some spirited driving in the canyons (though it felt a tad soft).

Track day is Monday, and I'm itching to dial in the track settings. A little nervous, but mostly excited!

Here's the weird issue I ran into:

Leaving my laptop plugged into the controller while switching the car off was resetting the shocks to the default softest setting every single time (i.e. 12 mA). Solution? Unplug the laptop before turning the car off, and the settings stick!

Couldn't find this documented anywhere, so hopefully, this saves someone some frustration.

[MESOGLEA]

Only adjust settings with power off or stationary. Don't drive and make adjustments. When there is no 12VDC to the unit, the USB connection is enough power to reset board, read and write.
Raising the default rate to be closer that G table makes for a smoother transition into the performance zone.
Are you using the APR calibration or did you try a higher current setting for the front?

APR both front and rear
90-1100 comfort
100-850 auto
100-850 dynamic

I don't believe these to be the correct settings. I feel the front is too soft, that's causing the oscillation.

[Cool_Breeze]

Only adjust settings with power off or stationary. Don't drive and make adjustments. When there is no 12VDC to the unit, the USB connection is enough power to reset board, read and write.
Raising the default rate to be closer that G table makes for a smoother transition into the performance zone.
Are you using the APR calibration or did you try a higher current setting for the front?

APR both front and rear
90-1100 comfort
100-850 auto
100-850 dynamic

I don't believe these to be the correct settings. I feel the front is too soft, that's causing the oscillation.

I started with the APR file, and agree they’re way too soft. So on the sport map, I adjusted the voltage rate to between 700mA and 1100ma then added the velocity table from comfort, kept the speed table defaults, and now the ride is pretty darn good in most cases. At lower speeds it feels a bit jarring, but I switch to comfort for that or I can reduce gcomfort default rate. In spirited driving on bumpy roads its hood, but still needs fine tuning.

This weekend I go the track, and I have no clue what I’m gonna do.

BUT OF COURSE, yesterday I go to the shop and they discover my front left magride shock is LEAKING . I’m at a loss for where to go next. I love playing with all these settings, but everyone seems to live their coilovers, and magride is so $$$

Plus now I’m even more uncertain how this weekends track day will go…


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[Cool_Breeze]

I started with the APR file, and agree they’re way too soft. So on the sport map, I adjusted the voltage rate to between 700mA and 1100ma then added the velocity table from comfort, kept the speed table defaults, and now the ride is pretty darn good in most cases. At lower speeds it feels a bit jarring, but I switch to comfort for that or I can reduce gcomfort default rate. In spirited driving on bumpy roads its hood, but still needs fine tuning.

This weekend I go the track, and I have no clue what I’m gonna do.

BUT OF COURSE, yesterday I go to the shop and they discover my front left magride shock is LEAKING . I’m at a loss for where to go next. I love playing with all these settings, but everyone seems to live their coilovers, and magride is so $$$

Plus now I’m even more uncertain how this weekends track day will go…


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forgive all the typos!


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