DSC Sport Active Suspension Controller

[Cool_Breeze]

Hi guys, I’ve been lurking for a while and trying to make sense of this controller and dial out the bounce. Thanks for all the tips - I’ve tried everything you guys have suggested and poured over DSCs videos. I think I’ve got my head around how this thing works but I’m becoming doubtful about whether the pogo problem can be adjusted out - I think it may be more of an issue with the magride design.

My latest attempt takes the mA calibration values suggested a few threads up, plus deactivated G Comf, and also layers in 10-20% additional rebound damping (across low/medium/high speed rebound) in the velocity table. It still bounces. Sometimes it feels like I’m making progress but they I hit a dip in the road that bucks the car and it me feel like I’m at square 1. I’m tempted to set all the rebound values at 80% and see if that has any effect as an experiment. I bet it will still bounce…

Additionally, I’ve started to get suspension malfunction errors at startup. At first it only happened when I was parked on my angled driveway and I could power cycle the car and it would clear. Now it’s starting to happen when parked on flat ground. I’ve heard others have experienced failures like this. I haven’t disconnected it or monkeyed with it at all since I installed it, so I can’t imagine why this is happening.

Anyway, I’m going to do a sanity check and put the stock controller back in to see if it actually feels better and more controlled than the APR controller.

It’s just super disappointing. This car is awesome but the suspension is overly busy and unsettled - especially with the controller - which really holds it back and frankly makes the car feel unpredictable and untrustworthy. Not a good characteristic for a car with this much performance.

Just wanted to share a perspective. I’ll stay tuned for any breakthroughs, or to share my own if I have one.

I've spent the last couple of weeks dialing in the DSC on my RS3, and I've definitely got some thoughts on your points.

I agree that the car needs to be pretty stiff to avoid that floating feeling. I found that a range of 800-1100mA on the shock calibration table, combined with APR's comfort velocity map and a custom G-force table (starting at 20% 0g center), gave me a great balance for spirited driving and daily comfort. I added a mild speed map, and my G-comfort setting is at 15%. With this setup, I start with default mA values around 900 which feels right driving this car mildly, but the velocity map can soften back to 800 to handle bumps while the g-force and speed maps gradually dial up stiffness as driving intensity increases. Even on my twisty test road with sharp bumps, soft undulations and elevation changes, I haven't experienced any floating and gained confidence, even started to smile! I disabled all other tables so I could iterate and see changes quickly.

I don't think we can fully eliminate the pogo effect on this platform, though I have been able to dampen it. My guess is that the limited negative travel on these shocks is the culprit.

Interestingly, my road settings didn't translate well to the track. The velocity settings made the car too soft on berms and bumps at high speeds. I had to remove them, reduce the shock calibration range to 900-1100mA, and create a more aggressive speed table for the track.

Generally, I'd guess the stock controller is set up incredibly stiff from the factory.

I also have to remember that since I've got 034's lowering springs, rear sway bar, camber plates, and other goodies, they set a good default and to some degree negate the need for excessive tuning of the DSC. The current configuration certainly adds to the hardware improvements, especially in tight high g corners.

Regarding your suspension errors, I'd start by checking the pins on the controller. They can easily get bent out of place.

Overall, I'm happy with the DSC controller, but it definitely takes time to fine-tune and I'm still working on it. Don't give up!

[rex_racer]

It was during a basic flashlight inspection with the wheels on. There was a lot of residue on the strut due to recent rain. Later I took the wheel off myself and didn’t see any residue on the shock, but did notice a small amount near the top bearing. Anyhoo, gotta pull it off to know for sure


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Ah some residue near the top is ok, that is likely the oil that is keeping the upper bushing of the strut where it slides along the strut body, lubed. I'd be more concerned it was was pouring oil out. Typically you'd end up with oil everywhere if it was really blown.

[rex_racer]

Hi guys, I’ve been lurking for a while and trying to make sense of this controller and dial out the bounce. Thanks for all the tips - I’ve tried everything you guys have suggested and poured over DSCs videos. I think I’ve got my head around how this thing works but I’m becoming doubtful about whether the pogo problem can be adjusted out - I think it may be more of an issue with the magride design.

My latest attempt takes the mA calibration values suggested a few threads up, plus deactivated G Comf, and also layers in 10-20% additional rebound damping (across low/medium/high speed rebound) in the velocity table. It still bounces. Sometimes it feels like I’m making progress but they I hit a dip in the road that bucks the car and it me feel like I’m at square 1. I’m tempted to set all the rebound values at 80% and see if that has any effect as an experiment. I bet it will still bounce…

Additionally, I’ve started to get suspension malfunction errors at startup. At first it only happened when I was parked on my angled driveway and I could power cycle the car and it would clear. Now it’s starting to happen when parked on flat ground. I’ve heard others have experienced failures like this. I haven’t disconnected it or monkeyed with it at all since I installed it, so I can’t imagine why this is happening.

Anyway, I’m going to do a sanity check and put the stock controller back in to see if it actually feels better and more controlled than the APR controller.

It’s just super disappointing. This car is awesome but the suspension is overly busy and unsettled - especially with the controller - which really holds it back and frankly makes the car feel unpredictable and untrustworthy. Not a good characteristic for a car with this much performance.

Just wanted to share a perspective. I’ll stay tuned for any breakthroughs, or to share my own if I have one.

Unless you're editing the G table, I've found that disabling G comfort was a poor idea. The G table ramps up stiffness way too fast and make the ride overall pretty rough. What I found works better is to let the G comfort be what it is and have the G table start at the same value as the G table at 0 G. As the car moves in any direction, I've set the rest of the G table to not pickup much percentage/mA, otherwise you get too many variables thrown in to be able to figure things out, especially if you have more additive % from the velocity table. The factory mapping that comes with the DSC and APR controllers is pretty awful, they really should have had better maps from the get go.

As noted the pins bend REALLY easily. You have to insert it into the plug very square from the top as well as from the side. The OEM controller uses thicker, broader pins and has an additional plastic guide to ensure it goes in straight w/o issue, the DSC/APR units do not, so its very easy to mess things up. After inserting you can also run an error log via the DSC unit to ensure that the pins are all inserted properly and everything is talking properly, https://www.dscsport.com/support-vid...-0ed9f5a8-9f31 . If you try to scan the suspension modules, the DSC unit will not be scannable. You may have to put your OEM one back in to scan and figure out what's going on. It may actually be a level sensor that's an issue.

[Palmermc]

Thanks for the quick feedback and suggestions.

I may try the above settings if I get the controller working again. I pulled it out and put the OEM controller back in for now. None of the pins were bent. I sent APR an email complaining about their stock maps and my miserable experience with the product so far including the faults.

After swapping the OEM controller back in, a quick spin around confirms that it’s makes things feel much more planted and settled than any settings I was running on the APR controller. I’m going to stick with it for a while and decide if it’s really worth messing with the APR controller again.

Have you guys popped the OEM controller back in as a sanity check?

[Cool_Breeze]

Unless you're editing the G table, I've found that disabling G comfort was a poor idea. The G table ramps up stiffness way too fast and make the ride overall pretty rough. What I found works better is to let the G comfort be what it is and have the G table start at the same value as the G table at 0 G. As the car moves in any direction, I've set the rest of the G table to not pickup much percentage/mA, otherwise you get too many variables thrown in to be able to figure things out, especially if you have more additive % from the velocity table. The factory mapping that comes with the DSC and APR controllers is pretty awful, they really should have had better maps from the get go.

As noted the pins bend REALLY easily. You have to insert it into the plug very square from the top as well as from the side. The OEM controller uses thicker, broader pins and has an additional plastic guide to ensure it goes in straight w/o issue, the DSC/APR units do not, so its very easy to mess things up. After inserting you can also run an error log via the DSC unit to ensure that the pins are all inserted properly and everything is talking properly, https://www.dscsport.com/support-vid...-0ed9f5a8-9f31 . If you try to scan the suspension modules, the DSC unit will not be scannable. You may have to put your OEM one back in to scan and figure out what's going on. It may actually be a level sensor that's an issue.

Thanks for the tips on the error log, I used that to help troubleshoot my issues as well. To your other point, I found that building a custom G-table made a significant difference for me. It allowed me to utilize the full range of a stiffer calibration table. My G-table starts at 20% and goes up to 100%, with comfort set at 15%. This maps to a shock calibration table between 800mA to 1100mA. The result is a progressive but linear increase in stiffness, with enough compliance for daily driving thanks to the velocity map, which dials back below 20% for bumps when needed, and stability at high speeds thanks to the speed map.

Still need to do further testing on various road conditions, but it seems promising. Next step is to fine tune the velocity table, to increase stability during medium and low compression at high speeds.

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[Cool_Breeze]

Thanks for the quick feedback and suggestions.

I may try the above settings if I get the controller working again. I pulled it out and put the OEM controller back in for now. None of the pins were bent. I sent APR an email complaining about their stock maps and my miserable experience with the product so far including the faults.

After swapping the OEM controller back in, a quick spin around confirms that it’s makes things feel much more planted and settled than any settings I was running on the APR controller. I’m going to stick with it for a while and decide if it’s really worth messing with the APR controller again.

Have you guys popped the OEM controller back in as a sanity check?

Sorry you’re having such a struggle, hopefully APR can help you out. You may also try emailing DSC directly, they tend to be responsive.

I haven’t switched back to the OEM controller, but intend to once I’ve established a good setup. My hope is I can do better than OEM!


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[DrMerl]

I think you'll prefer the stock box. It's about 90% of what's good for street. There's still the feeling of bouncing you out of the seat on freeway speed bumps/dips, but there is no nose bob or unsettling feeling at higher speeds, more predictable. IMO after adding more "spring" with FSB/RSB yielded a slightly better feel on the shocks. Taking into account what sway bars do anyway. I prefer a bit of Audi-steer on the street. After ditching unsprung weight with rims and brakes that also helped with stock box. I agree, with the power available not having to worry about tackling the suspension and having things work as expected is less puckering. Suspension malfunctions are unsettling, much like the nose bob =)

Otherwise it's some of these babies -
https://www.529innovations.com/suspension/p/suspension

[rex_racer]

Thanks for the quick feedback and suggestions.

I may try the above settings if I get the controller working again. I pulled it out and put the OEM controller back in for now. None of the pins were bent. I sent APR an email complaining about their stock maps and my miserable experience with the product so far including the faults.

After swapping the OEM controller back in, a quick spin around confirms that it’s makes things feel much more planted and settled than any settings I was running on the APR controller. I’m going to stick with it for a while and decide if it’s really worth messing with the APR controller again.

Have you guys popped the OEM controller back in as a sanity check?

I'm back on the OEM controller now as my front struts were making knocking noises at anything above 600mA. When I put the Audi controller back in, it makes less noise, but I'm getting a tinge of it. I suspect it might be due to damaged struts as I did purchase my front struts used. I've found that I had the DSC controller set far stiffer with more rebound and compression than any of the 3 OEM maps from Audi. I want to try another map at some point where compression is about 50% of rebound based on some of the shock valving specs I've seen from conventional dampers. And yes the Audi controller does ride smoother over bumps than my prior DSC maps even with the 500/500 lb springs on the car now.

Thanks for the tips on the error log, I used that to help troubleshoot my issues as well. To your other point, I found that building a custom G-table made a significant difference for me. It allowed me to utilize the full range of a stiffer calibration table. My G-table starts at 20% and goes up to 100%, with comfort set at 15%. This maps to a shock calibration table between 800mA to 1100mA. The result is a progressive but linear increase in stiffness, with enough compliance for daily driving thanks to the velocity map, which dials back below 20% for bumps when needed, and stability at high speeds thanks to the speed map.

Still need to do further testing on various road conditions, but it seems promising. Next step is to fine tune the velocity table, to increase stability during medium and low compression at high speeds.

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So you had a shock calibration table of 800 to 1100mA total? So just a 300mA window? So at static, before the car hits any bumps, the car is receiving about 860mA? Are you getting into negative percentages to dial the compression/rebound below the 15%/20% default settings of G comfort/G map calibration?

[Cool_Breeze]

I'm back on the OEM controller now as my front struts were making knocking noises at anything above 600mA. When I put the Audi controller back in, it makes less noise, but I'm getting a tinge of it. I suspect it might be due to damaged struts as I did purchase my front struts used. I've found that I had the DSC controller set far stiffer with more rebound and compression than any of the 3 OEM maps from Audi. I want to try another map at some point where compression is about 50% of rebound based on some of the shock valving specs I've seen from conventional dampers. And yes the Audi controller does ride smoother over bumps than my prior DSC maps even with the 500/500 lb springs on the car now.



So you had a shock calibration table of 800 to 1100mA total? So just a 300mA window? So at static, before the car hits any bumps, the car is receiving about 860mA? Are you getting into negative percentages to dial the compression/rebound below the 15%/20% default settings of G comfort/G map calibration?

that's correct. I simply copied APRs comfort velocity table over to sport, which drops back into negative values for compression, and combined with my custom g force map and reduced shock calibration range. I think APR did a nice job balancing the compression/rebound front to rear to compensate for the car's very front-heavy weight distribution. Since velocity map's values are relative, you can use them across whatever shock calibration range you want. My reduced shock calibration range works well with the higher 034 spring rates, which are specially calibrated for the RS3 (350lb/in front, 450lb/in rear). Overall it's a good starting point for street/canyons, but my next step is to fine tune the velocity table. However as I mentioned before, this did NOT work well on track and I wound up deleting the velocity table.

[rex_racer]

that's correct. I simply copied APRs comfort velocity table over to sport, which drops back into negative values for compression, and combined with my custom g force map and reduced shock calibration range. I think APR did a nice job balancing the compression/rebound front to rear to compensate for the car's very front-heavy weight distribution. Since velocity map's values are relative, you can use them across whatever shock calibration range you want. My reduced shock calibration range works well with the higher 034 spring rates, which are specially calibrated for the RS3 (350lb/in front, 450lb/in rear). Overall it's a good starting point for street/canyons, but my next step is to fine tune the velocity table. However as I mentioned before, this did NOT work well on track and I wound up deleting the velocity table.

Very interesting. Do you mind sharing what the APR velocity settings looked like? I tried going as high as 750mA base line, but my velocity settings were only positive after that and I used a wider range from 600-1900mA, matching what DSC delivers their product with.

What did you not like about the settings on the track? How did the car feel?

[MESOGLEA]

Ill try the higher current ratings starting from 400 tomorrow. I did wonder why we had current settings that would never get used.

[Cool_Breeze]

Very interesting. Do you mind sharing what the APR velocity settings looked like? I tried going as high as 750mA base line, but my velocity settings were only positive after that and I used a wider range from 600-1900mA, matching what DSC delivers their product with.

What did you not like about the settings on the track? How did the car feel?

you can download APRs file and take a look (scroll to the "tech resources" section): https://www.goapr.com/products/suspe...parts/SUS00019

I thought the max voltage magride could use was 1100mA? I've been unable to confirm this though.

on track there was too much undulation hitting berms or large bumps at high speed. I deleted the velocity map and the car stiffened but became harsh, so I think spending more time on a track velocity map is in order

[Cool_Breeze]

Ill try the higher current ratings starting from 400 tomorrow. I did wonder why we had current settings that would never get used.

that didn't make sense to me either, keep us posted!

[rex_racer]

you can download APRs file and take a look (scroll to the "tech resources" section): https://www.goapr.com/products/suspe...parts/SUS00019

I thought the max voltage magride could use was 1100mA? I've been unable to confirm this though.

on track there was too much undulation hitting berms or large bumps at high speed. I deleted the velocity map and the car stiffened but became harsh, so I think spending more time on a track velocity map is in order

Thanks for sharing, wow that's quite interesting, its very different from the factory DSC map that I was supplied.

Regarding the max power being sent to the shocks, in Track setting it was delivered with the following range:

Front: 150-1900 mA
Rear: 150-1875 mA

Comfort and Normal have a lower starting point, but the max is pretty much the same.

Sounds like you needed more compression/rebound to handle the berms, but not as much as is normally delivered at your standard rate. At least you are learning! Sounds like the car performed well in the sense that it didn't have issues either, that's great!

that didn't make sense to me either, keep us posted!

What do you mean by current settings that never got used? Never hitting 100% from any table regardless of all of the additive nature that could be occurring?

[MESOGLEA]

500 - 1500 front
350 - 1350 rear
Weight transfer is much better during acceleration. In comparison to the OEM unit, the DSC/APR tunes are obviously underdamped.

As for unused current settings, lets say the shock cal is 150 - 1000. If your default rate is 20, that's around 335mA. I'm thinking 150 - 334 will generally not be applied because its below the threshold.

[rex_racer]

500 - 1500 front
350 - 1350 rear
Weight transfer is much better during acceleration. In comparison to the OEM unit, the DSC/APR tunes are obviously underdamped.

As for unused current settings, lets say the shock cal is 150 - 1000. If your default rate is 20, that's around 335mA. I'm thinking 150 - 334 will generally not be applied because its below the threshold.

Ah I see, got it. Yes that is what I was doing too and had a lot of bounce in the 10mph range, so I started going back to a wider range and starting the default at a lower percentage, but have much larger velocity values instead; to see if I could get more initial movement that then transitions into dampening vs no initial movement and more bounce, but then less additional mA for velocity tuning.

[MESOGLEA]

I'm going to try the same calibration values across all modes. In my opinion, the shocks will behave the same after a certain percentage point so the performance behavior should be the same. The only difference is the ride quality.
The values in the G comfort box and the G table center are starting settings, if that. We may not be applying enough value to make a big difference.

[MESOGLEA]

Shock calibration the same across all modes works well for performance driving. I had comfort mode giving me .9 G on straight acceleration. Before the haldex tune, the best I could pull was .9 with a launch.
During cruise and city driving, the differences in each mode are noticeable.
I feel we are getting closer to appropriate calibration.

[sleepy_rs3]

I just want to provide an update - this seems to be the most active recent post on the DSC. I reached out to DSC and received an updated calibration file titled: "Audi RS3 OE damper_Standard File_05-17-23". Perhaps this is different than what TTRS owners have? Interestingly in the updated file, the shock calibrations are max 850 mA for all modes - much lower than previous iterations. The lower limit increases each mode (600 mA minimum for track/dynamic)

Thanks to posts by some of you on here and https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...2#post15078142 I learned that my thought to reduce compression and increase rebound for less bounce wasn't working and went ahead and did the following to the velocity table, using the 2023 DSC calibration file as the basis:

- increased medium velocity compression damping by 10%
- increased low velocity compression damping by 5%
- decreased medium velocity rebound damping by 10%
- decreased low velocity rebound damping by 5%

The result was the smoothest and least bouncy ride I've experienced so far - I usually consider Manhattan's West Side Highway as my proving ground, if you've ever driven it you'll know. I'm interested in anyones thoughts on this, questions, and most importantly suggestions for further improvement.

[Cool_Breeze]

Awesome! Wish I could try this out, but my unit failed DSC won’t touch it since it’s an APR unit, and APR isn’t getting back to me. Apparently DSC can hard reboot it but APR cannot because it’s a whole different firmware.


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[sleepy_rs3]

Awesome! Wish I could try this out, but my unit failed DSC won’t touch it since it’s an APR unit, and APR isn’t getting back to me. Apparently DSC can hard reboot it but APR cannot because it’s a whole different firmware.


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damn i'm sorry to hear that. i suggest replying to the orginal audizine thread which APR started to advertise the product - might get their attention. I'm willing to bet DSC can and APR can't because it's acutally DSC's firmware and APR need DSC to do it. just a theory.

[Cool_Breeze]

damn i'm sorry to hear that. i suggest replying to the orginal audizine thread which APR started to advertise the product - might get their attention. I'm willing to bet DSC can and APR can't because it's acutally DSC's firmware and APR need DSC to do it. just a theory.

Interestingly it’s the other way around. DSC told me they can’t because APR has a custom firmware. They even said we should NOT be using the DSC software on the APR unit because that may have caused the failure


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[sleepy_rs3]

Interestingly it’s the other way around. DSC told me they can’t because APR has a custom firmware. They even said we should NOT be using the DSC software on the APR unit because that may have caused the failure


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oh wow, i bet there are others who aren't aware of this. i actually ran the apr file on my DSC recently - I'm lucky it didnt kill my unit

[Cool_Breeze]

oh wow, i bet there are others who aren't aware of this. i actually ran the apr file on my DSC recently - I'm lucky it didnt kill my unit

Well APRs site says the DSC software can be used on the APR unit, so not sure what’s going on…


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[rex_racer]

I just want to provide an update - this seems to be the most active recent post on the DSC. I reached out to DSC and received an updated calibration file titled: "Audi RS3 OE damper_Standard File_05-17-23". Perhaps this is different than what TTRS owners have? Interestingly in the updated file, the shock calibrations are max 850 mA for all modes - much lower than previous iterations. The lower limit increases each mode (600 mA minimum for track/dynamic)

Thanks to posts by some of you on here and https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...2#post15078142 I learned that my thought to reduce compression and increase rebound for less bounce wasn't working and went ahead and did the following to the velocity table, using the 2023 DSC calibration file as the basis:

- increased medium velocity compression damping by 10%
- increased low velocity compression damping by 5%
- decreased medium velocity rebound damping by 10%
- decreased low velocity rebound damping by 5%

The result was the smoothest and least bouncy ride I've experienced so far - I usually consider Manhattan's West Side Highway as my proving ground, if you've ever driven it you'll know. I'm interested in anyones thoughts on this, questions, and most importantly suggestions for further improvement.

Perfect timing, I just got my front struts replaced and was going to put the controller back in and start doing some testing. I would also consider flipping around your low and medium velocity adjustments. The shock first go through the low velocity damping before it can get to the medium speed stuff, you may be able to catch out more of the bump via the low speed adjustment.

By chance do you have ability to share your file, or DSC's new file that they shared with you?

Well APRs site says the DSC software can be used on the APR unit, so not sure what’s going on…

That is extremely frustrating, APR advertises that DSC's software can be used. Really sorry to hear this :(. What happened when you unit failed, how did you know it went bad?

[MESOGLEA]

I've been working with ChatGPT to help tune this thing. We came up with the setting the Gtable as follows:

100 75 100
75 30 75
100 75 100

100 on each corner, 30 in the center with 75 between the 100. Autofill the center row and column and the border then fill whole table.
The 100 on the border is like hitting a wall, ramps up too fast. If the border is 100%, the system will reach 100% before the edge due to additional damping from the g forces. With 75 (or any % that feels good) software will add in the additional damping. This is an approved method of tuning as per Tom at DSC.
I set the G comfort box the same across all modes. I've been playing with calibration because the 100 75 100 setup feels good.

I'm trying to have the same ride/cruise in all modes until the need for performance arrives. I want the behavior of the car to be similar if not the same just stiffer between the modes.
If the Gtable and shock calibration are the same, the G comfort box will be slightly different to accomplish the ride we want. All modes will feel the same past a particular threshold. Attack/evasive maneuvers should feel the same for safety.

Once I'm satisfied with the ride, Ill adjust the G comfort box according the allows for a comfortable ride. The velocity tables may need to be tuned accordingly for each mode. If you have to use more that 25% damping, increase the calibration values.

[sleepy_rs3]

Perfect timing, I just got my front struts replaced and was going to put the controller back in and start doing some testing. I would also consider flipping around your low and medium velocity adjustments. The shock first go through the low velocity damping before it can get to the medium speed stuff, you may be able to catch out more of the bump via the low speed adjustment.

By chance do you have ability to share your file, or DSC's new file that they shared with you?

Sure, send me a PM with your email address and I will email you the file today.

As far as your suggestion, if I understand you correctly you're suggesting:

- increase medium velocity compression damping by 5%
- increase low velocity compression damping by 10%
- decrease medium velocity rebound damping by 5%
- decrease low velocity rebound damping by 10%

Correct?

[rex_racer]

Sure, send me a PM with your email address and I will email you the file today.

As far as your suggestion, if I understand you correctly you're suggesting:

- increase medium velocity compression damping by 5%
- increase low velocity compression damping by 10%
- decrease medium velocity rebound damping by 5%
- decrease low velocity rebound damping by 10%

Correct?

Yup exactly that. I've been talking to more shock tuners recently and they say most of the body control and damping control is in the low speed adjustments. They recommend a lighter value in medium and even lighter in high speed damping to allow the shocks to better deal w/ sudden bumps. End result is suppossed to be good control and more comfort. This is similar to the DFV vale in an Ohlins shock. Of course with 3 controllable modes, it could be fun to play with the different types of curves to find the best comfort/track values.

Sent you a PM. Thanks for sharing!

[Cool_Breeze]

Perfect timing, I just got my front struts replaced and was going to put the controller back in and start doing some testing. I would also consider flipping around your low and medium velocity adjustments. The shock first go through the low velocity damping before it can get to the medium speed stuff, you may be able to catch out more of the bump via the low speed adjustment.

By chance do you have ability to share your file, or DSC's new file that they shared with you?



That is extremely frustrating, APR advertises that DSC's software can be used. Really sorry to hear this :(. What happened when you unit failed, how did you know it went bad?

You’ll see a suspension malfunction error and headlight error in the dash. Swap to oem unit and the error disappears. At this point I’m just gonna toss the Apr unit.

Someone should get APR to confirm if it’s safe to use DSC software or not. The DSC folks say it’s not.


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[rex_racer]

You’ll see a suspension malfunction error and headlight error in the dash. Swap to oem unit and the error disappears. At this point I’m just gonna toss the Apr unit.

Someone should get APR to confirm if it’s safe to use DSC software or not. The DSC folks say it’s not.


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Was the unit just sitting in the car the whole time, or did you swap it out and then the codes came? I got both of those codes before, the female end of the clips were starting to open up too much and the male end of the box had either bent the pin, or folded it back. Might be worth taking a look. I really wish DSC made the pins more heavy duty like OEM, and the clip interface more refined to guide the controller in, like OEM.

Sure, send me a PM with your email address and I will email you the file today.

As far as your suggestion, if I understand you correctly you're suggesting:

- increase medium velocity compression damping by 5%
- increase low velocity compression damping by 10%
- decrease medium velocity rebound damping by 5%
- decrease low velocity rebound damping by 10%

Correct?

I need to correct myself on the rebound values. You want rebound to start with a higher value on the low speed and then have it taper down to a smaller value from medium on to high speed.

[Cool_Breeze]

Was the unit just sitting in the car the whole time, or did you swap it out and then the codes came? I got both of those codes before, the female end of the clips were starting to open up too much and the male end of the box had either bent the pin, or folded it back. Might be worth taking a look. I really wish DSC made the pins more heavy duty like OEM, and the clip interface more refined to guide the controller in, like OEM.



I need to correct myself on the rebound values. You want rebound to start with a higher value on the low speed and then have it taper down to a smaller value from medium on to high speed.

It was in the car the whole time. But as you said I’m starting to bend pins so I don’t want to mess with it anymore. I’ve been using a needle nose plier wrapped in electrical tape. Is there a tool that can straighten and align pins?


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[rex_racer]

It was in the car the whole time. But as you said I’m starting to bend pins so I don’t want to mess with it anymore. I’ve been using a needle nose plier wrapped in electrical tape. Is there a tool that can straighten and align pins?


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When I talked to DSC about it they said to just use a sharp needle nose plier and bend it back slowly. They didn't have any other specifics. I learned that when installing it you have to align it both from the overhead view and from the side view, to get it to go in straight. Typically its the side view of the unit that matters most as that was where it was getting the most miss-aligned.