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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings avantagg's Avatar
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    B8 Walbro 450 LPFP Retrofit How-To

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    This is a how-to for the modification of a B8 LPFP housing to retrofit a Walbro 450lph E85 High-Pressure In-tank Fuel Pump. The purpose of swapping out the OEM pump and replacing it with the Walbro 450 unit is to gain more headroom in the fueling system to avoid fuel starvation. Before we begin it should be noted that this modification WILL NOT WORK ON THE B8.5, they came with a different style fuel pump and can be modified with some alternative parts. For this how-to you are essentially removing the OEM pump from the basket and directly replacing it with the Walbro. However THERE IS SOME MODIFICATION to the bucket and basket REQUIRED (I'll cover that below). Thanks goes to Jesus Garduno and Byron Taylor for the guidance and previous knowledge.


    The essentials You’ll Need:

    • OEM LPFP - You can use your current pump, but I recommend finding a used one, or buying a new one to swap in, it makes it easier to save on downtime and this way you can take your time without having your car off the road too long. The nice thing about buying a new LPFP is that they already come with a new filter in the hat. If you don't buy a new pump, I recommend at least replacing your filter, they get pretty filthy after 60k.
    Walbro F90000274
    • Walbro 450 Installation Kit (usually an add on with the listing)
    • Hose Clamp 3 1/16 in. - 3 1/2 in. I.D.
    • 3 small screws
    • Dremmel

    Optional:
    GM Metri-Pack 280 Wire Terminals
    Terminal Crimping Tool





    I won't go into steps on how to remove the pump from the tank, there are tutorials for that on YouTube.

    First start by disconnecting the harness from the hat to the fuel pump. Next disconnect the fitting at the fuel filter, you will need to push in on the connection to slide it out. Next unclip the float switch from the bucket and carefully slide it up and out. Now you should be able to pull the hat up and out of the two guide posts on the bucket. Set aside.

    Next you will need to disconnect the plastic hose from the OEM fuel pump. Its very difficult to remove, I ended up snapping the nipple off the old pump by accident trying to pull it off with pliers and had to then break up the pieces in the hose with a pair of pliers to clear up the hose end. I think they make a special took to remove this type of fuel hose, but did not know this in advance. It might have also been difficult because I used a brand new assembly and the hose has never seen fuel. Be careful not to damage this hose, you will be reusing it on the Walbro pump.





    Next you will unclip the bucket top and carefully slide the lid up and off the bucket. There are 4 clips holding it down, be careful they snap easily.

    Once the lid is off you will now see the fuel pump sitting in the basket, pull it out of the bucket and set aside.

    Now comes the fun part. There are 3 pieces that need some modification for the new fuel pump to sit in place. The bucket lid, the bucket and the basket.

    The Bucket Lid:
    Using a dremmel, widen the opening on the lid by 3x to allow for the Walbro harness and OEM fuel hose to freely exit the top of the bucket, it may seem like a lot of material to remove, but it made positioning the hose a lot easier.



    The Bucket:

    1. Remove the green and white support posts from the bucket, these will not be reused.
    2. Remove the rubber check valve, this will not be reused.
    3. Using a dremmel remove all of the round pegs on the bottom of the bucket, you want the bottom to be smooth so the filter can sit freely without getting bunched up.
    4. Open up the hole where the old check valve was. Drill out two other holes where the old pegs were. This will allow for more fuel to flow into the bottom of the bucket.





    The Basket:
    Remove the OEM pump through the top of the basket by sliding the metal band off the bottom of the plastic housing. It's on there good, it will take a small flat head screwdriver to pry off. Once the band is off you should be able to push up from the bottom side of the pump to pop it out.

    The bottom of this plastic housing will now need modification for the new pump to be able to slide up and into it properly. With a Dremmel cutting wheel and sanding pad, carefully execute the following:

    1. Cut bottom of basket out
    2. Remove feet from the basket side bottom
    3. Cut a small vertical slice on the bottom of the basket cylinder to allow the opening to be widened for pump insertion
    4. Smooth out the bumps on the inside edge of basket cylinder. This will prevent the pump from slipping.
    5. Insert Walbro Pump into basket bottom and secure in place with hose clamp, leave some overhang so the filter can sit properly on the pump once it is placed into the bucket. Insert filter on pump.
    6. Next you will need to secure the bucket lid to the basket. There are 3 small holes on the lid that line up with the posts coming off the top of the basket. Carefully insert screws through those holes and into the posts, use a drill and widen the holes if needed. This plastic is hard and it cracks easily.
    7. Test fit the pump basket in the bucket, and make sure the lid snaps down without too much force, I had to readjust my pump position in the basket several times because the filter was getting scrunched on the bottom of the bucket. Make sure the filter pickup is near one of your bucket holes.













    The Wiring:

    Cut off the harness clip that connected to the OEM pump. There's a blue wire and two black wires. These will connect to the red wire and black wire on the Walbro pigtail. The Walbro kit comes with butt connectors. You can use these or solder and heat shrink. I chose a factory style solution by depinning the clip on the Walbro pigtail and then crimping new terminal pins onto the OEM wiring. Grab a few extra pins if you choose this route, I messed up a few times as I had never used a barrel crimper before. Next insert the bucket hat back onto the bucket and connect the female end of the fuel line to the filter.










    You now have an upgraded fuel pump capable of 750 HP and will hopefully no longer encounter fuel starvation! I will post some before/after data when I get a chance, I'm hoping Byron might have some soon as well.
    Last edited by avantagg; 02-04-2021 at 08:16 PM.
    2012 B8 Avant (3.0t Swapped)
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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Damn that's legit! Nice work dude

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Audizine Forum mobile app

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings avantagg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ModItNow View Post
    Damn that's legit! Nice work dude

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Audizine Forum mobile app
    Thanks, hope this helps some others!
    2012 B8 Avant (3.0t Swapped)
    034 DP | APR UC | Ported Charger | Mertop Headers | Milltek Resonated Exhaust | Bilstein PSS-10 | Alu Kreuz | CR-15 | H&R Sways | 034 Inserts | Ecodes | A5 Cluster Swap | 3G+ MMI | RS4 FBSW | Black Headliner Swap | BUILD THREAD

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Morritse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by avantagg View Post
    Thanks, hope this helps some others!
    Were you running into LPFP bottlenecks? I've yet to hit any
    FBO B8. ~ 10.95@126 ~ 2.96s 0-60 ~ full weight street tires.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Audi 4 Life's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morritse View Post
    Were you running into LPFP bottlenecks? I've yet to hit any
    I assume this is more done as part of retrofit for cars to handle e85?

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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings avantagg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morritse View Post
    Were you running into LPFP bottlenecks? I've yet to hit any
    I definitely had some weakness on the hpfp side so figured I would replace both in case I ever wanted to run E40 tune.
    2012 B8 Avant (3.0t Swapped)
    034 DP | APR UC | Ported Charger | Mertop Headers | Milltek Resonated Exhaust | Bilstein PSS-10 | Alu Kreuz | CR-15 | H&R Sways | 034 Inserts | Ecodes | A5 Cluster Swap | 3G+ MMI | RS4 FBSW | Black Headliner Swap | BUILD THREAD

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Audi 4 Life's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by avantagg View Post
    I definitely had some weakness on the hpfp side so figured I would replace both in case I ever wanted to run E40 tune.
    It would be cool if you could add to your thread everything you end up doing if you do end up modifying for ethanol.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    RIP - JHM B6 3.0 6MTQ USP Denim Blue/Black w/ Nappa Silver
    Current- B8 A4 2.0t S-Line Stasis Challenge Extreme Edition, Alcantara Headliner, ALA/ACC and 3g+ swap
    D3 A8 4.2 Black/Peanut (Daily)

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings avantagg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audi 4 Life View Post
    It would be cool if you could add to your thread everything you end up doing if you do end up modifying for ethanol.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Will do, I’ve got quite a few enhancements happening once the new motor gets dropped in.
    2012 B8 Avant (3.0t Swapped)
    034 DP | APR UC | Ported Charger | Mertop Headers | Milltek Resonated Exhaust | Bilstein PSS-10 | Alu Kreuz | CR-15 | H&R Sways | 034 Inserts | Ecodes | A5 Cluster Swap | 3G+ MMI | RS4 FBSW | Black Headliner Swap | BUILD THREAD

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    I need to do this

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Any chance you have the link to the b8.5? I think my pump is failing. And welp
    Lol Tia

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings shreddykrueger's Avatar
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    Walbro just arrived, new lpfp should arrive tomorrow then time to mod. Thanks for the DIY
    S4 Avant (6MT)
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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    forgot about this.

    would be sweet if 034 made a drop in kit like this :)

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings shreddykrueger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fresh.S4 View Post
    forgot about this.

    would be sweet if 034 made a drop in kit like this :)
    agreed. have been running an AEM340 in place of the stock pump and has been doing pretty good, but still occasionally throwing code P0087 (fuel rail/system pressure too low) when rally getting on it. I used to throw this code every time I got after it, but the AEM340 has made it rare; hoping the walbro450 makes it so it is no longer ever an issue
    S4 Avant (6MT)
    RCP dual pulley | AWE touring | JHM catted/baffled DP's | AEM water/meth | Ringer Stage III | RSNAV | Vogtland Coilovers | many other tings

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings shreddykrueger's Avatar
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    Thank you AvantGG for a well documented DIY. We cut the plastic bottom below the oem pump and were able to get it out without removing the top piece (thus no need for the 3 screws to re-attach). Considering building these to order for those interested, could have a new oem and used oem option. Should help with the fuel rail system pressure to low code I had been getting when getting on it

    S4 Avant (6MT)
    RCP dual pulley | AWE touring | JHM catted/baffled DP's | AEM water/meth | Ringer Stage III | RSNAV | Vogtland Coilovers | many other tings

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Hate to be this guy. But if you just cut the plastic bottom and keep the bucket you're going to starve the fuel pump. The only feed this pump has now is through the bottom that is like 2 mm raised up. Its very low flow. This at minimum needs holes on the side of the bucket. A side strap walbro to the bucket is better because you dont lose al the siphon systems molded into the bucket. those siphons keep the fuel pump cool and fed with fuel. Otherwise, you can achieve the same thing as holes on the bottom by removing the two green siphon tubes. In that case the only limit is how fast fuel can flow through the bottom.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Heres what Ive been working on, that retains all features of the bucket and has another BR540 Pump that I can piggyback a stock controller with. That way I have a full fuel bucket for low fuel situations and a check valve on the supplementary pump. This setup albeit a bit more expensive ensures long fuel pump life and fuel at the pump for hard acceleration and cornering.

    Sorry photos are sideways.







  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    For the wiring, you say there’s a blue and two black wires. The B8.5 pump has a 4 pin connector, so there’s 4 wires (black wire, yellow wire, brown wire and red wire) I’m taking it as you connect the black walbro to the black oem wire, and the red walbro to the red oem wire? What would I do with the yellow and brown wire? Would I just de pin and get rid of those completely? What are the other two wires for?



    Quote Originally Posted by avantagg View Post
    This is a how-to for the modification of a B8 LPFP housing to retrofit a Walbro 450lph E85 High-Pressure In-tank Fuel Pump. The purpose of swapping out the OEM pump and replacing it with the Walbro 450 unit is to gain more headroom in the fueling system to avoid fuel starvation. Before we begin it should be noted that this modification WILL NOT WORK ON THE B8.5, they came with a different style fuel pump and can be modified with some alternative parts. For this how-to you are essentially removing the OEM pump from the basket and directly replacing it with the Walbro. However THERE IS SOME MODIFICATION to the bucket and basket REQUIRED (I'll cover that below). Thanks goes to Jesus Garduno and Byron Taylor for the guidance and previous knowledge.


    The essentials You’ll Need:

    • OEM LPFP - You can use your current pump, but I recommend finding a used one, or buying a new one to swap in, it makes it easier to save on downtime and this way you can take your time without having your car off the road too long. The nice thing about buying a new LPFP is that they already come with a new filter in the hat. If you don't buy a new pump, I recommend at least replacing your filter, they get pretty filthy after 60k.
    Walbro F90000274
    • Walbro 450 Installation Kit (usually an add on with the listing)
    • Hose Clamp 3 1/16 in. - 3 1/2 in. I.D.
    • 3 small screws
    • Dremmel

    Optional:
    GM Metri-Pack 280 Wire Terminals
    Terminal Crimping Tool





    I won't go into steps on how to remove the pump from the tank, there are tutorials for that on YouTube.

    First start by disconnecting the harness from the hat to the fuel pump. Next disconnect the fitting at the fuel filter, you will need to push in on the connection to slide it out. Next unclip the float switch from the bucket and carefully slide it up and out. Now you should be able to pull the hat up and out of the two guide posts on the bucket. Set aside.

    Next you will need to disconnect the plastic hose from the OEM fuel pump. Its very difficult to remove, I ended up snapping the nipple off the old pump by accident trying to pull it off with pliers and had to then break up the pieces in the hose with a pair of pliers to clear up the hose end. I think they make a special took to remove this type of fuel hose, but did not know this in advance. It might have also been difficult because I used a brand new assembly and the hose has never seen fuel. Be careful not to damage this hose, you will be reusing it on the Walbro pump.





    Next you will unclip the bucket top and carefully slide the lid up and off the bucket. There are 4 clips holding it down, be careful they snap easily.

    Once the lid is off you will now see the fuel pump sitting in the basket, pull it out of the bucket and set aside.

    Now comes the fun part. There are 3 pieces that need some modification for the new fuel pump to sit in place. The bucket lid, the bucket and the basket.

    The Bucket Lid:
    Using a dremmel, widen the opening on the lid by 3x to allow for the Walbro harness and OEM fuel hose to freely exit the top of the bucket, it may seem like a lot of material to remove, but it made positioning the hose a lot easier.



    The Bucket:

    1. Remove the green and white support posts from the bucket, these will not be reused.
    2. Remove the rubber check valve, this will not be reused.
    3. Using a dremmel remove all of the round pegs on the bottom of the bucket, you want the bottom to be smooth so the filter can sit freely without getting bunched up.
    4. Open up the hole where the old check valve was. Drill out two other holes where the old pegs were. This will allow for more fuel to flow into the bottom of the bucket.





    The Basket:
    Remove the OEM pump through the top of the basket by sliding the metal band off the bottom of the plastic housing. It's on there good, it will take a small flat head screwdriver to pry off. Once the band is off you should be able to push up from the bottom side of the pump to pop it out.

    The bottom of this plastic housing will now need modification for the new pump to be able to slide up and into it properly. With a Dremmel cutting wheel and sanding pad, carefully execute the following:

    1. Cut bottom of basket out
    2. Remove feet from the basket side bottom
    3. Cut a small vertical slice on the bottom of the basket cylinder to allow the opening to be widened for pump insertion
    4. Smooth out the bumps on the inside edge of basket cylinder. This will prevent the pump from slipping.
    5. Insert Walbro Pump into basket bottom and secure in place with hose clamp, leave some overhang so the filter can sit properly on the pump once it is placed into the bucket. Insert filter on pump.
    6. Next you will need to secure the bucket lid to the basket. There are 3 small holes on the lid that line up with the posts coming off the top of the basket. Carefully insert screws through those holes and into the posts, use a drill and widen the holes if needed. This plastic is hard and it cracks easily.
    7. Test fit the pump basket in the bucket, and make sure the lid snaps down without too much force, I had to readjust my pump position in the basket several times because the filter was getting scrunched on the bottom of the bucket. Make sure the filter pickup is near one of your bucket holes.













    The Wiring:

    Cut off the harness clip that connected to the OEM pump. There's a blue wire and two black wires. These will connect to the red wire and black wire on the Walbro pigtail. The Walbro kit comes with butt connectors. You can use these or solder and heat shrink. I chose a factory style solution by depinning the clip on the Walbro pigtail and then crimping new terminal pins onto the OEM wiring. Grab a few extra pins if you choose this route, I messed up a few times as I had never used a barrel crimper before. Next insert the bucket hat back onto the bucket and connect the female end of the fuel line to the filter.










    You now have an upgraded fuel pump capable of 750 HP and will hopefully no longer encounter fuel starvation! I will post some before/after data when I get a chance, I'm hoping Byron might have some soon as well.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    B8 vs B8.5 fuel pumps are completely different and a 2 wire walbro cannot swap into a b8.5. Its a brushless pump in a b8.5 where b8 2 wire pumps are brushed.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by avantagg View Post






    in the first picture, that black cap, does that STAY on or does it get removed during installation? nothing else connects to it...

    in the second picture, can we cut open the bottom of a new oem pump just to get more flow 'in general' ?

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Now being the b8.5 has the 4 wires for the pump, what do you do with the other 2? Are they some kind of signal wires? Is it impossible to install any aftermarket pump on the b8.5?



    Quote Originally Posted by BrokeBichB8 View Post
    B8 vs B8.5 fuel pumps are completely different and a 2 wire walbro cannot swap into a b8.5. Its a brushless pump in a b8.5 where b8 2 wire pumps are brushed.

  21. #21
    Senior Member Three Rings JRYtheS4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corydms7 View Post
    Now being the b8.5 has the 4 wires for the pump, what do you do with the other 2? Are they some kind of signal wires? Is it impossible to install any aftermarket pump on the b8.5?
    Since it's brushless it would use 3 wires to drive the motor windings. The 4th wire is probably the common indicating a wye wound brushless dc motor. I had to do some hw, I don't work with these weirdo 4 wire brushless motors lol. Uncommon to me.

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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    1) Keep the black cap on. Connects to nothing.
    2) If you want to have the same effect as having holes in the bottom of the bucket, just open the bucket and pull the green siphon tubes out. there are already holes on bottom so you dont have to trash the bucket. Wont help too much because the fill on the bucket works pretty good.

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    So it would be difficult to make an aftermarket 2 wire brushless say aem 340lph pump to work with the b8.5’s? Is it possible you can just hookup the 2 wires from the aftermarket pump and just not hookup/de pin the other two?


    Quote Originally Posted by JRYtheS4 View Post
    Since it's brushless it would use 3 wires to drive the motor windings. The 4th wire is probably the common indicating a wye wound brushless dc motor. I had to do some hw, I don't work with these weirdo 4 wire brushless motors lol. Uncommon to me.

    Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app

  24. #24
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    Or is it even worth fitting an aftermarket one? Wouldn’t it be better to just get an RS7 oem pump? That way it’s plug and play and still has the 4 wires so the connector will just plug right in

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corydms7 View Post
    Or is it even worth fitting an aftermarket one? Wouldn’t it be better to just get an RS7 oem pump? That way it’s plug and play and still has the 4 wires so the connector will just plug right in
    the problem with the rs7 pump is that you are still limited to the ecu's function of how it pulls fuel (duty) when needed. also you are still limited by the oem lines, correct?

  26. #26
    Senior Member Three Rings JRYtheS4's Avatar
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    If you have a brushed pump, it will only be possible to run a brushed pump. If you have brushless, it will only be possible to run brushless. They are totally different electric motor types and are not interchangeable.

    That being said, it is possible to use a different brushless pump. But it needs to be 4 wires. Otherwise to use brushed in place of brushless, you'll have to devise your own electrical conversion and use an aftermarket ECU. A brushless motor can't plug and play replace a brushed motor.

    Thee are additional considerations I'm not going over like how much current can the factory ECU provide, how much fuel can the factory pump body flow, will it cavitate, etc. I would strongly advise trying something someone else already had success with unless you really want to get into an engineering project.

    Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app
    2011 Audi S4 Prestige 6MT|Full ADS w/ sport diff|Meteor Grey Pearl|Black/silver alcantara|Aluminum trim
    Bone stock except intake

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRYtheS4 View Post
    If you have a brushed pump, it will only be possible to run a brushed pump. If you have brushless, it will only be possible to run brushless. They are totally different electric motor types and are not interchangeable.

    That being said, it is possible to use a different brushless pump. But it needs to be 4 wires. Otherwise to use brushed in place of brushless, you'll have to devise your own electrical conversion and use an aftermarket ECU. A brushless motor can't plug and play replace a brushed motor.

    Thee are additional considerations I'm not going over like how much current can the factory ECU provide, how much fuel can the factory pump body flow, will it cavitate, etc. I would strongly advise trying something someone else already had success with unless you really want to get into an engineering project.

    Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app

    Get a fuel pump voltage booster and go from there. Its as easy as wiring a stereo amplifier.

  28. #28
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    I’m pretty sure people run the RS7 pump with ported blowers all the time. No fuel issues.


    Quote Originally Posted by Fresh.S4 View Post
    the problem with the rs7 pump is that you are still limited to the ecu's function of how it pulls fuel (duty) when needed. also you are still limited by the oem lines, correct?

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corydms7 View Post
    I’m pretty sure people run the RS7 pump with ported blowers all the time. No fuel issues.
    Of course no issues. But I don't think it would be any different than just running a brand new OEM pump.
    Basically a pump with xxxxxx miles wouldn't be as efficient as a new pump OEM or rs7. This was discussed years ago.
    And I don't think theirs anyone who is logging both new pumps back to back to compare.

  30. #30
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    What’s there to upgrade to then? What do people with aggressively ported blowers run?


    Quote Originally Posted by Fresh.S4 View Post
    Of course no issues. But I don't think it would be any different than just running a brand new OEM pump.
    Basically a pump with xxxxxx miles wouldn't be as efficient as a new pump OEM or rs7. This was discussed years ago.
    And I don't think theirs anyone who is logging both new pumps back to back to compare.

  31. #31
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    There’s a new method, where they weld material on the outside of the blower, and then that allows them to grind more out on the inside. Apparently that aggressive is enough to where you will run out of fuel.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrokeBichB8 View Post
    Get a fuel pump voltage booster and go from there. Its as easy as wiring a stereo amplifier.
    It probably doesn't matter for this application because I doubt anybody is going to pull a lot more power to the pump. But you still should consider how much total power you're pulling or you'll just blow fuses all the time, or melt the harness, or piss off the ecu if it monitors fuel pump current draw.

    I haven't invested any time into developing my own pump replacement I'm just speaking from general electrical engineering knowledge, and saying it's a whole lot easier to go with what's proven.

    Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app
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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corydms7 View Post
    What’s there to upgrade to then? What do people with aggressively ported blowers run?
    What I'm saying is folks who are running out of fuel were probably doing so with a tired lpfp. So they bought an rs7 pump, but I'm betting if they just replaced with a new OEM unit, they might get similar results as that rs7. To my knowledge, I don't think anyone has bought both to do a comparison.

    Quote Originally Posted by Corydms7 View Post
    There’s a new method, where they weld material on the outside of the blower, and then that allows them to grind more out on the inside. Apparently that aggressive is enough to where you will run out of fuel.
    New method? Fill and ports have been around since precovid.

  34. #34
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    Jokerz doesn’t even do that on the 3.0t and they’re known. First I’ve heard of someone doing it on a 3.0t blower.


    Quote Originally Posted by Fresh.S4 View Post
    What I'm saying is folks who are running out of fuel were probably doing so with a tired lpfp. So they bought an rs7 pump, but I'm betting if they just replaced with a new OEM unit, they might get similar results as that rs7. To my knowledge, I don't think anyone has bought both to do a comparison.


    New method? Fill and ports have been around since precovid.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corydms7 View Post
    Jokerz doesn’t even do that on the 3.0t and they’re known. First I’ve heard of someone doing it on a 3.0t blower.
    Brett used to until he started getting his chargers coming back with folks over spinning them so hard that the heat was reversing the epoxy.
    He then started porting without filling and then flow tests and realized you don't even NEED to fill and port to get EXACTLY the same results.

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