Caliper Bolt

[jorgemachete]

Well, I’m in a bit of a jam. 2-3 months ago I took my S7 to a shop to get my brakes done. At the time I decided to skimp out on doing a brake overhaul and just sticking to getting the pads replaced (23k miles) Ultimately regretted the decision cause I started getting immense brake noise but shop who did this work gave me forewarning beforehand so I just took it as a lesson to the chin.

One thing they mentioned to me before even starting the job was the need for a special bolt tool to access my pads which they ordered and used before doing the job. Or so they said. Fast forward to now when I’m trying to get my rotors & pads replaced at a different shop, they are saying the bolt is worn down on the driver side so they are having trouble using their specialty tool to get it off. Options they have presented are either breaking the existing bolt or using a smaller toll to hopefully get it off. Obviously if broken the bolt will need to be replaced. Issue is, the bolt is apparently not sold on its own...it’s sold among a full caliper. Other than the bolt there is no need for me to buy a caliper so I’m trying to avoid that route. Anyone got any experience with this issue? Are there interchangeable bolt models, perhaps non oem, that I can buy to get around this mess? Or any insights on how I can get my hands on an oem bolt without buying a whole caliper? Thanks for any insights. I just want a non squeaky brakes


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[jorgemachete]

Probably should specify that I’m referring to the front 400mm calipers if not obvious


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[Audisthesia]

I'm not sure I even know what bolt you are referring to. I changed the pads on my 400mm fronts and didn't use any special tool for some bolt. Maybe a picture would help?

[gk1]

There is no special bolt to remove S6/S6 front calipers from the car.
The funny star shaped bolt should NEVER be touched. (It attaches the bracket to the Brembo caliper and is a Brembo specific part that Audi does not sell.)
The bolts you remove to get the caliper off are on the back the large M14x1.5 hex bolt #18 N91147601 (They are one time use and should be replaced)
#15 in the diagram never gets removed.
GL

[jorgemachete]

Darn, I should’ve taken a picture when the shop was showing me. It’s a 12 star looking bolt on the interior of the caliper. I’ll see if I can take a picture with the wheels etc back on. Interesting you aren’t familiar though. This shop is basically the second to confirm access to this bolt requires whatever tool. Mine is a 2017 S7 btw. Not sure if that makes a difference


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[Audisthesia]

As gk1 pointed out, you don't touch that triple square bolt that holds the calipers to the brackets. You remove the caliper and bracket as one unit by removing the 2 hex bolts with a metric socket.

You can see both in this image... Red =don't touch, green= correct bolt

[Audisthesia]

Darn, I should’ve taken a picture when the shop was showing me. It’s a 12 star looking bolt on the interior of the caliper. I’ll see if I can take a picture with the wheels etc back on. Interesting you aren’t familiar though. This shop is basically the second to confirm access to this bolt requires whatever tool. Mine is a 2017 S7 btw. Not sure if that makes a difference


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I remember now, see my prior post with picture. I didn't remember using any special tools, because, well, I didn't use anything special. That is a triple square, but removing it is not required.

[Blkdoutv]

I’d suggest going to another place my friend. If you’re in the San Antonio area I’ve got a couple places you can use.

[jorgemachete]

Hmm, not sure if it differs from the S7? The part in question is on the interior of the caliper so unfortunately it’s not seen with the wheels etc back on but I’ve used these arrows as an indication of the bolt location. Potentially a little higher but it’s on the interior and it was fairly clear it had been touched prior. The shop I’m getting the overhaul done works on VW/Audi club cars so I’d assume they are capable and aware of the cars quirks but could be wrong. IMG_0030.jpg

[jorgemachete]

This might be a better pic. I think it’s either on or neighboring this piece IMG_0031.jpg


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[gk1]

Yeah you can see the bolts here, but they should not be touched. Unfortunately your first shop must have touched them instead of the correct hex bolts mentioned. Since only Brembo knows the torque spec of those bolts I would assume they are incorrectly tightened now too.

[gk1]

As gk1 pointed out, you don't touch that triple square bolt that holds the calipers to the brackets. You remove the caliper and bracket as one unit by removing the 2 hex bolts with a metric socket.

You can see both in this image... Red =don't touch, green= correct bolt

FWIW I believe the red arrow indicates the bolt used to hold the wheel bearing in place.
#24 in this pic. WHT000237A
As you said don't touch for brake R&R.

[jorgemachete]

Got the shop to send a diagram. They said it’s number 15IMG_0032.jpg


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[jorgemachete]

Yeah you can see the bolts here, but they should not be touched. Unfortunately your first shop must have touched them instead of the correct hex bolts mentioned. Since only Brembo knows the torque spec of those bolts I would assume they are incorrectly tightened now too.

That’s the one! And the most recent shop mentioned the torque as you did. So no need to touch those? Still a bit concerned at the fact they are now worn. IMG_0033.JPG


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[Audisthesia]

Got the shop to send a diagram. They said it’s number 15IMG_0032.jpg


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No reason whatsoever to touch bolt 15 in that diagram to change brake pads. You remove #18 in that diagram times 2 and the entire caliper comes off. Then you just pop out the pads, and put in new ones. Of course doing things correctly like the shims and spring too.

You can see in the diy on audizine those #15 aren't touched. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...nge+brake+pads

What is most disturbing about this whole thing, is the shop said they ordered the special tool for those bolts, and still screwed up. How the hell did they damage the bolts if they were using the proper tool properly?

Bottom line, they damaged stuff that wasn't damaged when you took your car in. They are responsible for fixing or paying for for someone who knows wtf they are doing to fix them

[jorgemachete]

No reason whatsoever to touch bolt 15 in that diagram to change brake pads. You remove #18 in that diagram times 2 and the entire caliper comes off. Then you just pop out the pads, and put in new ones. Of course doing things correctly like the shims and spring too.

You can see in the diy on audizine those #15 aren't touched. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...nge+brake+pads

What is most disturbing about this whole thing, is the shop said they ordered the special tool for those bolts, and still screwed up. How the hell did they damage the bolts if they were using the proper tool properly?

Bottom line, they damaged stuff that wasn't damaged when you took your car in. They are responsible for fixing or paying for for someone who knows wtf they are doing to fix them

Thank you. May just take this up with them. I am a bit disturbed by the fact 2 shops assumed this particular bolt had to be removed. I thought I’d finally be at ease getting my rotors & pads replaced, now this.


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[Alabama]

What is most disturbing about this whole thing, is the shop said they ordered the special tool for those bolts, and still screwed up. How the hell did they damage the bolts if they were using the proper tool properly?

Absolutely. Aren't brake caliper brackets used by most if not all car manufacturers? Isn't this the sort of thing any ASE mechanic would know?

[jorgemachete]

Alright y’all, now I’m all kinds of mind f’ed. I’m at a shop with an Audi master guild and he’s saying the bolt in question does indeed need to be removed....I’m here as we speak.


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[Audisthesia]

Sure, it can be done that way. If you have the proper tool and know how to use it. But it sure is easier to remove the bracket and caliper as a single unit as everyone on the forums has done. Regardless, the 1st shop damaged your car.

[gk1]

Like Audisthesia said you CAN do whatever you want, why not cut off the caliper with a plasma torch and then weld them back on when you are done. We are telling you the correct way to do it.
You even have the pictures and can clearly see you can take it off with the caliper still attached to the bracket.
Like I mentioned if Audi does not give you the torque spec for a bolt they usually don't want you removing it. They even go out of their way in the service manual to tell you not to remove those bolts (or the guide pins).

[Audisthesia]

THIS

[Alabama]

THIS

From page 117 of the Audi Brake System repair manual "Brake System - Edition 03.2019": "In the following description the brake caliper is removed with the brake carrier and brake pads. The brake hose remains connected." One doubts gk1 and Audisthesia at one's own peril! Maybe check that Audi Master Guild certificate and make sure the continuing education is up-to-date!