This is how I broke my engine in. You can use non detergent SAE 30 motor oil, but the main thing you want is zinc content. That is why they make specially formulated Engine Break in Motor Oil. Some people use just non-detergent SAE 30, non-detergent SAE 30 and add their own zinc, or use Break in Motor Oil specially designed with the right components in their blends to accommodate all the important parts of the internals during break in.
Best way is to use Break in oil. I am an Amsoil fan (I used to run nothing but their motor oil, but that got too expensive. Brad Penn also makes a really good break in motor oil. I think that is what I used last time, can't remember. But I tried a couple in the past, including Amsoil break in oil.) There is a debate on how to break in the piston rings, so I will simply state the route I take and not what other's have done.
1) Start engine with break in oil, let engine oil gets up to operating temps, cut car off, let oil cool a bit (you want the engine still warm, but don't burn yourself draining the motor oil), then drain the oil. During this time you want to inspect the oil you drained for any shavings. There will be shavings, but you need to gauge what is too much. I have a magnetic drain plug, so this part makes things more simpler. But...you will still see shavings in the bulk oil drained. This is completely normal, but once again you don't want too much. And any big pieces is a big no no. At this point, stop what you are doing and tear the engine back open.
2) If everything seems normal from the first test of engine idle and observing the shavings, then proceed to changing out the oil with more break in motor oil and new oil filter. Basically a complete oil change with break in oil. Now, let fluids get to operating temps and go for a ride. During this time, you want to hit boost hard going all out from the start. Reason for this is the cylinder compression (using this term for the boost in the combustion chamber) will press the piston rings against the cylinder walls. This is what breaks in the piston rings, but you would want to do this before the glaze on the cylinder walls are made, so the hone can properly break in the rings.
When you build an engine, there will be a spec sheet for parts you placed in by the manufacturers. It will list piston ring gaps for the purpose of the vehicle (will be on the spec sheet EuroxS4 is requesting to have). Depending on boost and purpose of the car, the spec sheet will tell you how to gap your piston rings. So when the block was built, you should have had a conversation with Arnold for the purpose of the block and he would have built it that way in accordance to the "manufacturer" spec sheet of parts used. Then Arnold would have written down the exact specs for that block "he used" and placed it on a sheet. Arnold should have supplied it with the engine block. On that sheet it should have the piston ring gapping "he used" according to the manufacturer spec sheet....but they still need to be broken in before the glaze on the cylinder walls take over. That just explains the process of piston ring gapping.
Once again, this is just what I do (far from an expert by any means, and am a driveway mechanic who does this for a hobby) and there will always be a debate on this (ie baby it, go full blast out the gate then mixed driving after, mixed driving the whole time, etc). I go full blast with hitting boost. I think I broke my motor in at 15psi when I had a GT2871R. Current motor, maybe 15psi on a CT2 5152 Triplex (530hp turbo). Can not really remember. But it is really a hold me over block till it blows (spare block and FSI crank in garage for next round). Issue is, it's not blowing and may last another 100K+ for all I know (ie had it over 150mph, and still hanging around). Anyways, for the first maybe 10-15 minutes or so I go full boost and lots of vacuum. You want the two extremes at this time. Hard full boost, gas off throttle and lots of vacuum (try to avoid using the brakes at this time). After that, then do mixed driving in each gear (load in each gear, for real mixed driving) for maybe another 10-15 minutes. Drain the motor oil, and inspect the oil once again for shavings (there will still be some, but too much could be a sign of an issue with the block. and large pieces...break open the block and salvage the parts that were not compromised before the repair gets more expensive. For example...much cheaper to replace a bearing than a crank and forged rods).
3) If all checks out with the above, then do another full motor oil change. Depending on what brand break in motor oil you use will have instructions on how to use their product. For example,
here is Amsoil's with a more in depth explanation of why I take the route I do. They say to not exceed 1000 miles, so don't exceed 1000 miles if using theirs if I am reading it right on their site (I also use Asmoil assembly lube when engine building; I am an Asmoil fan). Other brands will tell you how to use their product. After that, full motor oil change and switch to synthetic. Or you can do something like run non-detergent SAE 30 for another couple thousand miles then switch to full synthetic. It is really up to the user, but the important part of the piston ring break in is accomplished so it really does not matter. It would simply be a preference thing at this point. But on the 3rd round of inspecting the motor oil (first was warm up, second was boost/vacuum/mixed driving, and third is just having break in motor oil as the engine still breaks in for at least 500-1000 miles), shavings should be just about gone. At this point, engine should be properly broken in.
Originally Posted by Seerlah
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