Front Wheel Bearing Removal, Stuck.

[n7plus1]

Following the DIY in the S4/RS4 subforum, it states once you get the 4 bolts holding the bearing in the knuckle, it will fall out. Well, I have all 4 bolts out and this bitch ain't budging. Any insight guys??? I've tried pounding it with a rubber mallet and trying to separate it from the knuckle with a flat head screwdriver/crowbar/hammer combo to no avail.

[Knives1010]

I had to stick a flat head between the knuckle and the bearing to get it started and then with some gumption it came out.... Have something under the axle though, mine thudded pretty hard against the knuckle because both my hands were on the hub assembly. Wasn't any damage but being preventative is always good.

[n7plus1]

Thanks man

[ADCS]

One of mine took 3 days of pounding and one came out fairly easily. Good luck. =) Might be easier in the long run to remove the entire spindle and get it pressed out.

[Knives1010]

no problemo, you get it?

[old guy]

Following the DIY in the S4/RS4 subforum, it states once you get the 4 bolts holding the bearing in the knuckle, it will fall out. Well, I have all 4 bolts out and this bitch ain't budging. Any insight guys??? I've tried pounding it with a rubber mallet and trying to separate it from the knuckle with a flat head screwdriver/crowbar/hammer combo to no avail.

One side of mine fell out after removing the bolts. The other side required removing the knuckle completely from the car. I supported the knuckle with wooden blocks and used a 4# sledge hammer to pound the bearing/housing out of the knuckle. Also used lots of PB Blaster, curse words and a propane torch.

[Knives1010]

One side of mine fell out after removing the bolts. The other side required removing the knuckle completely from the car. I supported the knuckle with wooden blocks and used a 4# sledge hammer to pound the bearing/housing out of the knuckle. Also used lots of PB Blaster, curse words and a propane torch.

This is truely the best tool in every mans tool box... It will help fix every part on every car ever made.

[daverdfw]

air hammer? When I had to do ball joins on my wifes Volvo that thing is a life saver.

[n7plus1]

Got the first one out. There was a lot of melted gunk/grease/whatnot keeping it all together. Kept pounding with a flat head and worked up to my crowbar with the hammer. Used lots of pb blaster as well. I just wanted to make sure that for some reason the A4 wasnt different than the DIY I was reading. Hopefully the drivers side is easier. Im doing that job along with an inner CV boot kit.

[daihashi]

I posted videos on this exact topic last week. There were something like 4 different videos, and I think at least 3 of them showed different techniques on how to get it out. I also provided some text on alternatives of how to remove the wheel bearings that the video didn't show.

[old guy]

From a few years ago: Clicky click

[DiertyEuroSpec]

Yea as Diahashi said check that video because I plan to do this soon and knew about that and other "Edge Motors" youtube vids and they are great.

Slide hammer that bitch out!!!

One question once the hub it out do you need it pressed into the hub or is it bolt in??? I was under the impression the bearings with the bolt flange around it (the fronts only) can just be screwed back in and they will seat? Is this true or does it need to be pressed into the hub and the bolts are more for holding the hub to spindle than seating the bearing??

PS...OG did you see that video diahashi posted? Edit: Here it is...anyway any thoughts on the slide hammer method that they utilized?

[Knives1010]

Yea as Diahashi said check that video because I plan to do this soon and knew about that and other "Edge Motors" youtube vids and they are great.

Slide hammer that bitch out!!!

One question once the hub it out do you need it pressed into the hub or is it bolt in??? I was under the impression the bearings with the bolt flange around it (the fronts only) can just be screwed back in and they will seat? Is this true or does it need to be pressed into the hub and the bolts are more for holding the hub to spindle than seating the bearing??

PS...OG did you see that video diahashi posted? Edit: Here it is...anyway any thoughts on the slide hammer method that they utilized?

They must be pressed off and on... The bolts go through the hub assembly into the spindle and out the other side they don't actually make contact with the bearing... Make sure you have a 12mm triple square to do this project... It will actually say that don't let the parts guy say 12 point, very different

Triple square (ignore the 10mm at the top that was just the first image I found):


The holes are seen here:


There is a great DIY in the S4/RS4 section


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[pzupp]

My front wheel bearing is really stuck into the knuckle ... If I remove the knuckle will I need to redo the alignement?

[diagnosticator]

My front wheel bearing is really stuck into the knuckle ... If I remove the knuckle will I need to redo the alignement?

No, as long as the tie rod is not turned in the adjustment.

[diagnosticator]

An air hammer really is helpful for removing the bearing from the spindle. Use a spreader plate to apply the hammering force evenly around the bearing.

[walky_talky20]

Officially speaking: yes.
Practically speaking: no.

Everything fits together with a fair amount of precision. The bolt-up of the knuckle does not include any fasteners with significant amount of "slop". IE: this is not a Cavalier. Taking it apart and putting it back together should leave the alignment quite nearly exactly where it was.

[pzupp]

I've tried the air hammer knocking on the bolts and on the side of the bearing with no success :(

Cool thank you so I can take of the knuckle from the car and hammer that bearing assembly out with no problem?

[diagnosticator]

I've tried the air hammer knocking on the bolts and on the side of the bearing with no success :(

Cool thank you so I can take of the knuckle from the car and hammer that bearing assembly out with no problem?

Air hammering the bolts won't work. The bolts thread into the knuckle. Only directed forces will work, pushing the bearing support out of the knuckle. However you apply forces to the bearing support to remove it from the knuckle, you must be sure to avoid damaging the bearing support, or causing distortion to the parts that will prevent the support from being removed from the knuckle. Hammering directly on the bearing support can cause the metal to get pounded out of shape, where it won't be able to slide through the knuckle, a steady pressure from a press is the best way to do this, but a brass plate between the hammer and the bearing support will help prevent damaging the support from the hammer blows.

[pzupp]

Air hammering the bolts won't work. The bolts thread into the knuckle. Only directed forces will work, pushing the bearing support out of the knuckle. However you apply forces to the bearing support to remove it from the knuckle, you must be sure to avoid damaging the bearing support, or causing distortion to the parts that will prevent the support from being removed from the knuckle. Hammering directly on the bearing support can cause the metal to get pounded out of shape, where it won't be able to slide through the knuckle, a steady pressure from a press is the best way to do this, but a brass plate between the hammer and the bearing support will help prevent damaging the support from the hammer blows.

Alright sir! taking note here :)
Is there a better way then without removing the knuckle from the car? cause everything is tight in here and the axle is in the way :( Cant remove the axle completely without unbolting some screw i guess

[VAGlover]

Following the DIY in the S4/RS4 subforum, it states once you get the 4 bolts holding the bearing in the knuckle, it will fall out. Well, I have all 4 bolts out and this bitch ain't budging. Any insight guys??? I've tried pounding it with a rubber mallet and trying to separate it from the knuckle with a flat head screwdriver/crowbar/hammer combo to no avail.

Slide hammer. Or just take the knuckle off completely and bring it to a shop. When i did mine, the slide hammer only pulled the hub out and left the bearing and housing stuck on the knuckle. Had to take the knuckle off.... Disconnect all control arms and tie rod and brong it to a shop to be pressed out.

SHIT SUCKED


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[needmovies]

One side of mine fell out after removing the bolts. The other side required removing the knuckle completely from the car. I supported the knuckle with wooden blocks and used a 4# sledge hammer to pound the bearing/housing out of the knuckle. Also used lots of PB Blaster, curse words and a propane torch.

I'm working on replacing my knuckle and mine is stuck as well. I got the bolts off but the bearing/hub is still stuck on the knuckle.

I didn't try hammering yet since I was afraid I'd mess up my bearing (I'm reusing my existing bearing/hub and transferring to a new knuckle). Can I ask, where did you hammer at? Did you hammer the part where the axle attaches at the back of the knuckle to push the bearing/hub out?

Thanks

[MikTip]

Dam!

Mine just fell right out!



Zero corrision helped!

[MikTip]

Hub removal

[MikTip]

Install

[Spike00513]

^^^ Those don't look like the B7 A4 brakes your sig says you have..

[diagnosticator]

Proper mechanical practice note:

Never hammer on a ball or roller bearing, when the balls or rollers must transfer the hammer blow forces and shock from the inner or outer race to the other bearing race. Doing this will ruin the bearing, because the hammer blows will cause the balls to make dent marks in the bearing race ball grooves, resulting in a rough running noisy bearing, that will fail soon after the damage occurred. When using a hammer or press to remove a ball or roller bearing, only the outer race can be hammered or pressed on, to remove the bearing if installed in an ID. For bearings installed on a shaft, only the inner race can be hammered or pressed on to remove the bearing from the shaft. All applied forces employed to remove and install bearings, must be spread evenly around the bearing race. Uneven forces will tip the race and cause the race to jamb instead of moving during removal / installation. Apply forces evenly only to the race holding the bearing assembly into or on the associated parts.

[MikTip]

^^^ Those don't look like the B7 A4 brakes your sig says you have..

They was me older RS4'z!



Mad! Stopping power!

Ran'm for many years!

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=B7+RS4+Brakes

[nikolastm]

I can not belive how much gunk and lepoxy glue-like was there. Removing bearing/hub was a nightmare. What is this stuff? I have videos and photos (don’t know how to upload here).

I did 79k miles and this is the 3 rd time I’m changing these. There is some sort of design fault here.

Btw the SKF brand for 4H0498635F is what Audi dealerships are installing. One can buy from eBay.de and it will be much cheaper than $220 for genuine.