Replacement engine almost ready!

[RickV]

So I picked up a 2008 2.0t fsi engine with 78k miles on it to replace the bad one in my B7. Both engines are BWT. While I have it in my garage I've been fixing it up so I have less chance of problems down the road. I'm almost done and will be ready to get it in the car soon. Here's a list of everything I've done to the replacement engine so far thanks to all the wonderful people on this forum helping me out during this adventure.

New thermostat, new oil cooler, new rear main seal, dropped oil pan and cleaned out screen, installed new drain plug with magnet and new oil pan gasket, new oil filter housing, new Lp fuel line, new coolant hoses as needed, new timing chain tensioner and chain, 3 new rings inside timing cover and new gasket, new camshaft seal, new timing belt complete kit with water pump and tensioner pulley, new belts, removed cam tray and resealed it with anaerobic gasket maker and ARP bolts , new valve cover and gasket, new coils and plugs, rebuilt vacuum pump, new cam follower, new cam shaft end cap, new oil, fuel and air filter, new pressure control gasket and a new breather hose.
How'd I do?
Also I haven't touched the turbo yet. The one on the bad engine has 116k miles on it but worked fine, the one that came on the replacement engine should only have 78k miles on it but I don't know if it worked right or not. What one should I use and should I somehow clean the one I'll be using also? I see videos on how to clean a turbo when its on the running engine in the car but not when it's out of the car.
Thanks again for the help and here's some pics of the engine now.

[FatMongo]

So I picked up a 2008 2.0t fsi engine with 78k miles on it to replace the bad one in my B7. Both engines are BWT. While I have it in my garage I've been fixing it up so I have less chance of problems down the road. I'm almost done and will be ready to get it in the car soon. Here's a list of everything I've done to the replacement engine so far thanks to all the wonderful people on this forum helping me out during this adventure.

New thermostat, new oil cooler, new rear main seal, dropped oil pan and cleaned out screen, installed new drain plug with magnet and new oil pan gasket, new oil filter housing, new Lp fuel line, new coolant hoses as needed, new timing chain tensioner and chain, 3 new rings inside timing cover and new gasket, new camshaft seal, new timing belt complete kit with water pump and tensioner pulley, new belts, removed cam tray and resealed it with anaerobic gasket maker and ARP bolts , new valve cover and gasket, new coils and plugs, rebuilt vacuum pump, new cam follower, new cam shaft end cap, new oil, fuel and air filter, new pressure control gasket and a new breather hose.
How'd I do?
Also I haven't touched the turbo yet. The one on the bad engine has 116k miles on it but worked fine, the one that came on the replacement engine should only have 78k miles on it but I don't know if it worked right or not. What one should I use and should I somehow clean the one I'll be using also? I see videos on how to clean a turbo when its on the running engine in the car but not when it's out of the car.
Thanks again for the help and here's some pics of the engine now.

Sounds good. I may have missed it, but did you clean the intake valves? If not, pull off the intake and do so - at that point, you might as well send the injectors out to get cleaned as well.

For the turbo, the simplest test is to put your fingers on the turbine shaft and try to wiggle. If the shaft feels sturdy with no wiggle/wobble, its a good indication. If the shaft has wobble, the turbo is no good.

Otherwise, I think you got all the major trouble sports. Make sure you diligently hook up all your grounds in the engine bay (I believe there are 5) on re-installation, or you will be chasing around a no start condition.

Good luck!

[Jayz691]

Everything seems good, but as fatmongo mentioned, id do carbon clean and send inj's out. Also, did you inspect your balance shafts, pressure valve, etc on the oil pump assembly, while ya had the pan off? Also, would have been a good time(oil pump off) to check your piston cooling jets. At least the front 3, as 4th requires crank removal. If a few are bad(check valves) it can lead to low, idle oil pressure. Othet than thise things, looks good

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[RickV]

I did not clean the intake valves. This is the first time that's being recommended to me. I just pulled the intake and wow are they dirty! Holy carbon! I'm scratching that crap off now with a pick but what is the best cleaner to dissolve carbon?

[vce1232000]

I did not clean the intake valves. This is the first time that's being recommended to me. I just pulled the intake and wow are they dirty! Holy carbon! I'm scratching that crap off now with a pick but what is the best cleaner to dissolve carbon?

use a soda blaster

[RickV]

That's interesting. Would a cheap Harbor Freight one be ok?

[FatMongo]

I did not clean the intake valves. This is the first time that's being recommended to me. I just pulled the intake and wow are they dirty! Holy carbon! I'm scratching that crap off now with a pick but what is the best cleaner to dissolve carbon?

Honestly - the best product is the carbon cleaner they sell at the Dodge dealers under the Mopar brand. Just go to any Jeep or Dodge dealer parts dept and ask for a can. Its like $10. Its works amazing.

[FatMongo]

Also, would have been a good time(oil pump off) to check your piston cooling jets. At least the front 3, as 4th requires crank removal. If a few are bad(check valves) it can lead to low, idle oil pressure. Othet than thise things, looks good

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Oh my God! Great point - I had to RE-PULL and - REBUILD a freshly built engine because of these. These nasty little things:

[vce1232000]

That's interesting. Would a cheap Harbor Freight one be ok?

thats what I have

[Jayz691]

That's interesting. Would a cheap Harbor Freight one be ok?

Yes, media blaster with medium walnut shells, thats whats normally used.

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[ultima]

I did not clean the intake valves. This is the first time that's being recommended to me. I just pulled the intake and wow are they dirty! Holy carbon! I'm scratching that crap off now with a pick but what is the best cleaner to dissolve carbon?

I got some Berryman B-12 Chemtool Carburetor Choke Cleaner from autozone when I did mine, I did also use wire brushes but holy smokes man that thing is like acid on carbon. Worked very well for me.

[Older_not_Wiser]

Maybe I missed it, but coolant flange on the back of the motor under the timing chain cover?

Believe me, you want to do that one with the engine out. I just did my second (I have 2 B7s) this past weekend with the motor in and it is a PITA with the motor in.

It really is an hour job that takes 5 hours because of access

[RickV]

Yes I replaced the coolant flange. I got a brand new OEM one on eBay dirt cheap so I was very excited about that one. Thanks for mentioning it though.

[Gowking]

Yes I replaced the coolant flange. I got a brand new OEM one on eBay dirt cheap so I was very excited about that one. Thanks for mentioning it though.

I hope it’s not a counterfeit part.

[Theiceman]

ofh ?

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[RickV]

It's real. It has the Audi markings on it.

[Jayz691]

ofh ?

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Oil filter housing.
Realised maybe you were asking if he did it, lol. But he did mention it.

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[RickV]

Yes I replaced the oil filter housing.
Has anyone tried cleaning their fuel injectors like they do on some Youtube videos where you remove the injectors from the engine, use different size hoses to adapt to a carb/choke cleaner straw and then activate the solenoid with a 12v battery? I can't find a place near me that cleans them out of the car, only in the car while it's running. I was thinking of trying it.

[FatMongo]

Yes I replaced the oil filter housing.
Has anyone tried cleaning their fuel injectors like they do on some Youtube videos where you remove the injectors from the engine, use different size hoses to adapt to a carb/choke cleaner straw and then activate the solenoid with a 12v battery? I can't find a place near me that cleans them out of the car, only in the car while it's running. I was thinking of trying it.

Yes, have tried. Doesnt work.

Look up Mr. Injector in Idaho. Send him your injectors and he will clean them well. About a week turn around and he charges $100 per set + shipping. I've used him twice now with good results.

[RickV]

Ok so I didn't get a soda blaster for the valves...
I will definitely make the purchase and try it if I ever have to do this again though. I instead used some old fashion elbow grease and wow were these things dirty!
I first scraped off as much carbon as I could using an old heavy duty dental pick. This actually worked really good because the curve of the pick matched up well with the roundness of the walls and valve. I then got a vacuum and sucked the loose carbon out that fell to the bottom. I then soaked it with Mopar's combustion chamber cleaner for 10 minutes. I then put a wire bristle brush on the end of a drill and spun that all around in there. Next I sucked all the nasty juice out, sprayed brake cleaner in there and then shot compressed air into the hole while I had a towel over it to blast the dirty brake cleaner out into the towel. I then repeated that process a second time and that was it.
I think they turned out pretty good. They're not new looking like. what I saw a soda/walnut shell blaster can do but they're a hell of a lot better than what they were. The pics I attached are from one of the valves. There's before, after it's scraped, after I used the Mopar cleaner with the wire brush and then after I blew the brake cleaner out.
It took me 2 hours total but I'm happy with the result.

[FatMongo]

Ok so I didn't get a soda blaster for the valves...
I will definitely make the purchase and try it if I ever have to do this again though. I instead used some old fashion elbow grease and wow were these things dirty!
I first scraped off as much carbon as I could using an old heavy duty dental pick. This actually worked really good because the curve of the pick matched up well with the roundness of the walls and valve. I then got a vacuum and sucked the loose carbon out that fell to the bottom. I then soaked it with Mopar's combustion chamber cleaner for 10 minutes. I then put a wire bristle brush on the end of a drill and spun that all around in there. Next I sucked all the nasty juice out, sprayed brake cleaner in there and then shot compressed air into the hole while I had a towel over it to blast the dirty brake cleaner out into the towel. I then repeated that process a second time and that was it.
I think they turned out pretty good. They're not new looking like. what I saw a soda/walnut shell blaster can do but they're a hell of a lot better than what they were. The pics I attached are from one of the valves. There's before, after it's scraped, after I used the Mopar cleaner with the wire brush and then after I blew the brake cleaner out.
It took me 2 hours total but I'm happy with the result.

Excellent job!

Holy crap those valves were nasty.

[RickV]

Thanks so much! Yeah I'm so glad it was recommended to me to clean them. I love this forum, so many helpful people here!
Here's the link to the wire brush that I used on my drill, it seriously worked really well. If you ever have to clean valves by hand definitely try them out.
10 Pcs Wire Brush Extended Steel Cleaning End Brushes Pen Stainless Steel Wire Brush 3 mm Mandrel Rust Paint Removal Bits Polishing Rotary Tool Accessories, 6 mm End Brush https://a.co/d/ixQqMNI

[RickV]

Oh yeah it was you who recommend me to clean them Lol. Thanks a lot pal. 🙏

[tractoman]

Yes, have tried. Doesnt work.

Look up Mr. Injector in Idaho. Send him your injectors and he will clean them well. About a week turn around and he charges $100 per set + shipping. I've used him twice now with good results.

I have used Bill (Mr. Injector) a couple times too. Very nice guy and does good fairly priced work.