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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings texadelphia's Avatar
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    Tiptronic Transmission Adaption Drive

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    Has anyone done this after replacing their transmission fluid or just to try and fix their shifting? A couple things I'm trying to wrap my head around.
    1) How am I going to do this on public roads with traffic
    2) Do I need to somehow monitor torque values with VCDS or similar or is it sufficient just to apply light throtte?
    3) Is it possible to reset the transmission adaptation values using ODBEleven or do I need to spring for a VCDS cable and windows laptop?
    Any thoughts or tips are appreciated.




  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Jay-Bee's Avatar
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    You can reset the basic values by doing a save on Adaptation Channel 00, i did this after my ATF service should be able to find similar in OBD11 menus. The drive mode one where you drive back and forward a bunch never seemed to run properly on mine and I tested it in my big parking lot behind my warehouse.

    New fluid totally fixed all my drive/surging/clunking issues.
    2008 Audi A4 Avant 2.0T Tip - Stage 2 94 octane Digitek Tuned
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings texadelphia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-Bee View Post
    You can reset the basic values by doing a save on Adaptation Channel 00, i did this after my ATF service should be able to find similar in OBD11 menus. The drive mode one where you drive back and forward a bunch never seemed to run properly on mine and I tested it in my big parking lot behind my warehouse.

    New fluid totally fixed all my drive/surging/clunking issues.
    Pretty sure that back and forth method is for the Multitronic transmission according to Ross-Tech. The procedure I posted above seems to be for the Tiptronic. Earlier in that document it also says that the shop computer has a guided function which walks the tech through resetting the adaptation values and then guides them through the adaptation drive. I'm not sure if it monitors adaptation values in real time and tells you if each step is successful or if it just puts the steps up on the screen. I'm curious if VCDS has this guided procedure built in or if you can just reset the adaptation values and then go do the adaption drive manually. I have an email into Ross-Tech support but I doubt it's baked in to the software.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Jayz691's Avatar
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    I know you can reset it with Obdeleven trans block 00. I brought it up, but didn't hit it, cuz wasn't sure what it would do exactly. Is that something I should do, since I recently did the service??

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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Jayz691's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-Bee View Post
    You can reset the basic values by doing a save on Adaptation Channel 00, i did this after my ATF service should be able to find similar in OBD11 menus. The drive mode one where you drive back and forward a bunch never seemed to run properly on mine and I tested it in my big parking lot behind my warehouse.

    New fluid totally fixed all my drive/surging/clunking issues.
    Did you do anything after resetting in block 00?

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine mobile app

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings Jay-Bee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayz691 View Post
    Did you do anything after resetting in block 00?

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine mobile app
    Just went for a good drive with varied speed from slow street cruising up to high way speed for about 20 mins.
    2008 Audi A4 Avant 2.0T Tip - Stage 2 94 octane Digitek Tuned
    [AEM Intake, CTS FMIC, B8 IHI Turbo, CTS test pipe, 2.5" Custom stainless exhaust, Rev J DV, H&R Springs, Bilstein shocks, S4 rear sway bar, B8 S-line seats]

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Jayz691's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-Bee View Post
    Just went for a good drive with varied speed from slow street cruising up to high way speed for about 20 mins.
    And it seemed to help?? Gonna have to try it, thanx.

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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Here is the cheat code that one of Audi Mech told me and hopefully it work. I dont have VCDS test it and LMK

    To actually reset the clutch adaption charge times and pressures, you need to go into VCDS, into the transmission, then to adaptions. Then scroll to adaption 01, and save a 0 there. Then to confirm that they're reset, go to measure blocks values 73-77, which correspond to clutches A through E. After a successful reset, all these values should now be 0.

    Then it's time to perform an adaption drive, and certainly hold off the heavy throttle for a while as the box is still learning how to only allow the clutches to slip an acceptable amount.
    SSP385 explains very well the actual adaption phases. Very clever and the box is actually adapting the unused clutches whilst in certain gears. You can actually feel the pulses whilst it's doing it.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings texadelphia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeevan View Post
    Here is the cheat code that one of Audi Mech told me and hopefully it work. I dont have VCDS test it and LMK

    To actually reset the clutch adaption charge times and pressures, you need to go into VCDS, into the transmission, then to adaptions. Then scroll to adaption 01, and save a 0 there. Then to confirm that they're reset, go to measure blocks values 73-77, which correspond to clutches A through E. After a successful reset, all these values should now be 0.

    Then it's time to perform an adaption drive, and certainly hold off the heavy throttle for a while as the box is still learning how to only allow the clutches to slip an acceptable amount.
    SSP385 explains very well the actual adaption phases. Very clever and the box is actually adapting the unused clutches whilst in certain gears. You can actually feel the pulses whilst it's doing it.
    Thanks for the direction. I was hoping someone would be able to confirm this with an Audi tech.

    I think I'm just going to spring for a VCDS cable because there's other stuff I want to do with it anyway and I find myself frustrated with OBDEleven more often than not. I'm sure I can accomplish this with my OBDEleven but I'm just kind of tired of chasing my tail with it in general. I can always sell it down the line if I don't find utility in it.

  10. #10
    Active Member One Ring
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    You have the right pages from the manual. Run the drive as it describes. I had to reset mine due to rough shifts when changing to redline (filled, ran for 100mi,and dumped / refilled) and filter /gasket change. I chose a large shopping mall circle to perform the first tests then hit the freeway for the last. Be easy on the throttle. I reset channel 01 with my odbeleven. It takes time to get the adaption done, have patience and you will need to monitor the adaption values in the vagcom. You can't complete the adaption without a vagcom or obdeleven to monitor the transmission blocks values 73-77. I have the full 09l if you need it, and successfully adapted my transmission. Buttery smooth shifts. 😎 PM if you have questions.

    The longest thing to adapt is the pulse adaption, it took multiple drives to set them all, and I had to keep checking the status with the vag.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by SH4YD33 View Post
    You have the right pages from the manual. Run the drive as it describes. I had to reset mine due to rough shifts when changing to redline (filled, ran for 100mi,and dumped / refilled) and filter /gasket change. I chose a large shopping mall circle to perform the first tests then hit the freeway for the last. Be easy on the throttle. I reset channel 01 with my odbeleven. It takes time to get the adaption done, have patience and you will need to monitor the adaption values in the vagcom. You can't complete the adaption without a vagcom or obdeleven to monitor the transmission blocks values 73-77. I have the full 09l if you need it, and successfully adapted my transmission. Buttery smooth shifts. PM if you have questions.

    The longest thing to adapt is the pulse adaption, it took multiple drives to set them all, and I had to keep checking the status with the vag.
    where did you monitor the correct temp for transmission in obd eleven. I see a bunch of channels with different temperatures valves and not sure which one is right

    would you please to explain the adaptation process fully? I am doing this for the second time tomorrow. I didn't do any adaptations first time when I did it 6 months ago. I really didnt notice any changes in shifting first time though.


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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings texadelphia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SH4YD33 View Post
    I have the full 09l if you need it
    What do you mean by "the full 09l"?

    Quote Originally Posted by SH4YD33 View Post
    It takes time to get the adaption done, have patience and you will need to monitor the adaption values in the vagcom. You can't complete the adaption without a vagcom or obdeleven to monitor the transmission blocks values 73-77...

    The longest thing to adapt is the pulse adaption, it took multiple drives to set them all, and I had to keep checking the status with the vag.
    What are the criteria for "successful" adaptation? What are you looking for in the vag or obdeleven that shows that the adaptations are successful?

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    I did a big mistake today. Rented the lift and my transmission temperature wasnt going down below 60C because of the long drive. I open the drain plug and didn't wait until its 30-35c temp. I only got about 3.5 quarts out of the drain plug and fill plug.

    When I did this last year in winter, I got about 5 quarts drained and another 1/2 quart from pan and filter when the temperature of transmission was less than 30C

    If you are doing this, try to do this when the engine and transmission is dead cold.


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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings texadelphia's Avatar
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    Interesting. I wonder why a warmer temperature would cause less fluid to come out. If anything, I would expect more to come out.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by texadelphia View Post
    Interesting. I wonder why a warmer temperature would cause less fluid to come out. If anything, I would expect more to come out.
    My guess is 1 quart stayed inside the pan. I didn't remove pan and filter as I have changed them an year ago.

    Today was really bad day for me. Overpaid for the usage of lift, drain plug stripped due to terrible Allen sockets. Transmission wouldnt cool down due to summer heat inside the garage. I just waited 3 hrs pointlessly only to see the temp inside the transmission just a tad bit. I forced the exact amount of oil into the pan than came out of the pan and called it a day.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings texadelphia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeevan View Post
    My guess is 1 quart stayed inside the pan. I didn't remove pan and filter as I have changed them an year ago.

    Today was really bad day for me. Overpaid for the usage of lift, drain plug stripped due to terrible Allen sockets. Transmission wouldnt cool down due to summer heat inside the garage. I just waited 3 hrs pointlessly only to see the temp inside the transmission just a tad bit. I forced the exact amount of oil into the pan than came out of the pan and called it a day.
    Man, that's a rough day. If it makes you feel any better I tried to change the battery in my other car yesterday, broke one of the terminal connectors trying to clean it and then realized the battery itself was the wrong size. Had to wait until this morning to return the battery and get a new connector to splice on. Simple battery change took like 6 hours over 2 days. Lol

    That said your experience makes me think I'll be building crib blocks this week to change my fluid instead of driving an hour to the closest rental lift.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings Jayz691's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeevan View Post
    I did a big mistake today. Rented the lift and my transmission temperature wasnt going down below 60C because of the long drive. I open the drain plug and didn't wait until its 30-35c temp. I only got about 3.5 quarts out of the drain plug and fill plug.

    When I did this last year in winter, I got about 5 quarts drained and another 1/2 quart from pan and filter when the temperature of transmission was less than 30C

    If you are doing this, try to do this when the engine and transmission is dead cold.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    That don't make sense, as warmer fluid, if anything, would be more. Fyi, when I just did a drain and fill(no pan removal) I only got 3.5 liters out, so prob normal. When I did the first time(pan and filter) I got 4.5-5 liters out, and about the samr back in. The temp check is only for the fill, don't matter when draining.

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine mobile app

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayz691 View Post
    That don't make sense, as warmer fluid, if anything, would be more. Fyi, when I just did a drain and fill(no pan removal) I only got 3.5 liters out, so prob normal. When I did the first time(pan and filter) I got 4.5-5 liters out, and about the samr back in. The temp check is only for the fill, don't matter when draining.

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine mobile app
    As per ZF filling procedure outlined in their catalogue, weather it's filling or draining the should be at 40C or less.


    IMG_2202.jpg

    IMG_2201.jpg



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  19. #19
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Can someone give me more specific instructions about the adaptation drive ?

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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings texadelphia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeevan View Post
    As per ZF filling procedure outlined in their catalogue, weather it's filling or draining the should be at 40C or less.


    IMG_2202.jpg

    IMG_2201.jpg



    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    It looks to me like that flow chart only addresses filling or checking the fluid level. I don't see anything specifically addressing draining. Did you monitor fluid temperature while refilling?

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by texadelphia View Post
    It looks to me like that flow chart only addresses filling or checking the fluid level. I don't see anything specifically addressing draining. Did you monitor fluid temperature while refilling?
    Used Obd eleven for that but my transmission temp went down from 70C to 45C before I started refilling. That lift owner wanted to close so I had no other option. I just forced almost the amount of same liquid that came out.


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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings texadelphia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeevan View Post
    Used Obd eleven for that but my transmission temp went down from 70C to 45C before I started refilling. That lift owner wanted to close so I had no other option. I just forced almost the amount of same liquid that came out.


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    Gotcha. Hopefully you got pretty close. That's a tough situation. I'd probably be trying to crawl under there to get the fill plug off to see if I can get anymore in it. Did you happen to go to Stew's garage in Kirkland?

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings Jayz691's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeevan View Post
    As per ZF filling procedure outlined in their catalogue, weather it's filling or draining the should be at 40C or less.


    IMG_2202.jpg

    IMG_2201.jpg



    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    I only see filling or checking. But you can do what ever ya want really, lol. Draining is just draining. Its important for filling to get the correct amount...

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine mobile app

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