B6 S4 - Tiptronic to manual swap

**Jdsb6s4** · 04-26-2021 08:16 PM

Nice work. So how do you go about draining that piece? I have a drain line coming off the bottom with a valve for quick draining when running the “fast tracks”. A good 5-6 ounces of blowby after every 20 minutes.

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**Dondbg** · 04-26-2021 11:23 PM

Originally Posted by Jdsb6s4

Nice work. So how do you go about draining that piece? I have a drain line coming off the bottom with a valve for quick draining when running the “fast tracks”. A good 5-6 ounces of blowby after every 20 minutes.

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Thanks :)

It can be removed easily as soon as you unlcip the plastic bits you will be able to lift the can up, unscrew the bottom and drain it.

I have seen the one with the drain, if this going to be filled up quickly then will drill another hole and attache a valve and some short hose so will be able to drain it from under the car. Let’s see ...

**Jdsb6s4** · 04-27-2021 05:27 PM

Originally Posted by Dondbg

Thanks :)

It can be removed easily as soon as you unlcip the plastic bits you will be able to lift the can up, unscrew the bottom and drain it.

I have seen the one with the drain, if this going to be filled up quickly then will drill another hole and attache a valve and some short hose so will be able to drain it from under the car. Let’s see ...

It’s not going to fill up quickly unless you are sending it at upward speeds of 120+ mph for 20 minutes or so. With daily driving I have nothing but fuel vapor and condensation. Even my last track event didn’t accumulate anything since the track was highly technical and you barely break 100mph at a couple spots on that track.

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**Dondbg** · 05-27-2021 02:33 AM

10th April -> 18 May finally got the missing head bolt - thanks ECS tuning - You suck!!!!

So put the second head on, removed centre chains, guides and tensioners and started putting new stuff in and this happened

**Dondbg** · 06-19-2021 07:19 PM

Started drilling the broken bolt so I can use easyout bit

Yes snapped inside and now I have a harder metal to deal with !

So called a welder to weld a nut on top

10 nuts later and the bitch didn’t move

The good news the cobalt easyout broken bit came out

So back to drilling and this round plan to use helicoil

And helicoil installed

Got a spare pin from an old wrecked engine

Happy guide happy me …..

Phew …..

To be continued

**Dondbg** · 07-04-2021 12:38 AM

Engine is assembled

I ended up swapping a total of 4 pin guides, for upper and lower centre chains as you can see the damage previous chain caused since it was riding on the pin, this caused new guides to stuck and they were not floating.

Used some home made tool to install the rear seal

I have followed Audi service manual when doing the timing, was easy and clear.

Edit:

I have noticed the seal was not evenly pushed in so i hired proper install tool and reinstalled it. (Used new one of course)

So easy with the right tools

Flat with the cover.

**Dondbg** · 07-04-2021 12:45 AM

Fixing latch sensor

I have noticed the bonnet / hood latch sensor wires are fried, so I decided to try to fix it instead of buying new

I used a heat gun to soften the plastic and managed to pull the wires out

Cut and used shrink tube

Covered it with some RTV and shielded the wires using fibre glass sleeve

**VinnysS4** · 07-04-2021 12:48 AM

Proper fix when parts are scarce in places! Looks good man

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**Dondbg** · 07-04-2021 12:57 AM

Originally Posted by VinnysS4

Proper fix when parts are scarce in places! Looks good man

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Thank you Sir! Appreciate all your help brother - you are very knowledgeable with these machines.

**All_Black_A4** · 07-04-2021 01:26 AM

Looking good. I bet you can't wait to be done

**Dondbg** · 07-04-2021 01:57 AM

Originally Posted by All_Black_A4

Looking good. I bet you can't wait to be done

You can’t even imagine

**Dondbg** · 08-01-2021 02:06 AM

Clutch and gearbox installed

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210802/dbe0e67292a205fbfa9f25a934c7eeaf.jpg[/IMG]

I have used a little bit of exhaust cement at the mating point with the manifold, won’t hurt and just so I’m sure there will no leak

[IMG]

**Dondbg** · 08-01-2021 02:09 AM

Now I have to figure out The install approach - never don’t it before, pulled like 4 of those engine, never installed one.

Im thinking of leaving the subframe hanging on the control arms which will give me good clearance and I might remove the shifter as well that is additional ~ 30cm.

**All_Black_A4** · 08-02-2021 06:03 AM

Originally Posted by Dondbg

Now I have to figure out The install approach - never don’t it before, pulled like 4 of those engine, never installed one.

Im thinking of leaving the subframe hanging on the control arms which will give me good clearance and I might remove the shifter as well that is additional ~ 30cm.

You should be ok with just unbolting the stabilizer bar for the shifter. That will allow you to swing it to the side and down a bit to give you the clearance you need. That's what I did on my first install last summer/fall and had no issues. Just don't forget to put the bolt back in

**Dondbg** · 08-10-2021 01:40 AM

Decided to drop the subframe and drive the whole thing in then lift up and bolt the subframe.

Squeezed the thing as far as I can next to the washing machine

Just like this levelled it right and started pushing, didn’t even need to remove the shifter

Under the gearbox I have placed a dolly

Connected the harness and left the intake for later

Then removed the dolly and used a trolley jack to be able to push the gearbox higher

Landed

With the engine in the air I slide the subframe and bolted it

Used wood blocks to help bring to the hight

1/2 inch extension to guide the frame

I have done two mistakes which wasted my time:

I installed the motor mounts wrong so I had to remove and rotate them, I discovered that when I was installing the mount bracket
Here how they should be mounted

Second is the gearbox cross member, I forgot to seat it on the downpipes before I started lifting, the O2 sensors wiring will prevent you from sliding it, so I removed the O2 wiring….

I bleed the clutch cylinder using power bleeder and I flushed the whole system, the colour of the fluid came out is greenish

Stole my kid bottle so I can measure how much fluid is being collected from each side.

Followed the manual

**Dondbg** · 09-02-2021 02:14 AM

Its in and It works !

https://youtu.be/V4rctVNq2fE

Had a leak from the rear only if I push the engine hard and I ended pulling the engine thinking it is the rear cover only to discover the oil pressure sensor was not screwed in tight and you can turn it by hand, previous owner may removed it and I never checked

Anyway - was quick out/in lol.

I have used this OE RTV which takes like 96 hours or even more to fully cure, very strange.

While running the engine I noticed the compressor shaft wobbling, that was because the clutch shaft was not centred so I opened it, centred it with a clamp )Alex AMtuned idea) and worked great.

While I was there I pulled the shaft boot and greased the splines with some clutch spline grease

Refilling coolant with the airlift tool is soooooo easy and no air pockets

Grabbed this from the donor car and used it for the airbox

Had to repair the thread of the downpipes bracket, it was ruined

And one of the fuel rail bolts

Flushed the power steering pump fluid

I used the manual car ECU so pulled login code for my car and the donor and adapted the ECU with cluster

I hope I’m done with the engine and I close the bonnet

**Dondbg** · 09-15-2021 02:02 AM

Restored the rear parcel cover, used VHT fabric dye spray.

Wired in reverse camera

Passed the wire through here

The engine produce a lot of crap

So I connected the catch can, since we are in lockdown I used some old old pcv hoses I have laying around

Turned up fine

**Dondbg** · 09-20-2021 01:56 AM

Added CF shift knob, not 100% I’m keeping it but my OE is broken so this will do for now

**All_Black_A4** · 10-05-2021 08:51 AM

Looking sharp. I just put the motor back in the car this weekend and made the same mistake you did. Passenger side motor mount was positioned wrong

Looks like I'll be busting out the hoist and repositioning that one this weekend. I tried making an extension for the connector using and old parts harness I had but the plug would fit.
Oh the joys of working on 16 yr old Audi S4s

**VinnysS4** · 10-05-2021 09:33 AM

Originally Posted by All_Black_A4

Looking sharp. I just put the motor back in the car this weekend and made the same mistake you did. Passenger side motor mount was positioned wrong

Looks like I'll be busting out the hoist and repositioning that one this weekend. I tried making an extension for the connector using and old parts harness I had but the plug would fit.
Oh the joys of working on 16 yr old Audi S4s

No hoist needed for that mount

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**All_Black_A4** · 10-05-2021 09:49 AM

Originally Posted by VinnysS4

No hoist needed for that mount

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Was just gonna use it to raise the motor an inch or 2. I guess I could always use a floor jack with a piece of wood on the oil pan.

**VinnysS4** · 10-05-2021 10:40 AM

Originally Posted by All_Black_A4

Was just gonna use it to raise the motor an inch or 2. I guess I could always use a floor jack with a piece of wood on the oil pan.

I get ya. The motor barely moves with that mount disconnected. Just a heads up

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**Dondbg** · 10-06-2021 12:24 AM

H&R with KONI yellows plus 20’ RSQ3 Speedline wheels ET38

**Dondbg** · 10-06-2021 12:29 AM

Originally Posted by All_Black_A4

Looking sharp. I just put the motor back in the car this weekend and made the same mistake you did. Passenger side motor mount was positioned wrong

Looks like I'll be busting out the hoist and repositioning that one this weekend. I tried making an extension for the connector using and old parts harness I had but the plug would fit.
Oh the joys of working on 16 yr old Audi S4s

That’s annoying ya.
I discovered the subframe is not aligned centred - I guess I’ll just take the car to the dealer to do the wheel alignment and will ask them to loosen and align the subframe, it’s $70 extra and it will done right.

Now the TTY bolts been stretched twice I guess the third time they will snap.

**Dondbg** · 10-08-2021 04:51 PM

Originally Posted by Dondbg

Ran the clutch switch wire, and swapped the paddles assembly

Looks good with three pedals

Passing the clutch master cylinder line is way easier with the brake booster loose.

Removing the driver seat and accelerator pedal made the assembly swap easy, there are four bolts holding the assembly plus you will need to disconnect the brake pedal from the brake booster and this is where I started

Edit

Regarding the clutch switch wiring, the plug comes with two wires, one goes to the ECU pin 39 and the other black/brown is ground - What I found out, you must wire it to the black/brown wire of the brake switch otherwise it will not work
What I did initially I wired it to the ground and of course didn’t work.

**Dondbg** · 10-16-2021 04:44 AM

Deleted right Aux radiator - the this is the second one I put in and started to leak.

Here is how it looks like

I blocked one opening of the Y connector with this cap

And used / cut this extra OE hose I have

**Dondbg** · 10-21-2021 07:30 PM

Swapped complete S4 B8 seats in to my B6 S4

Front are direct bolt on, wiring is straight forward for the B6, I cut the B8 terminal and soldered in a b6/7 terminal, in my case I had 6 wires 2 wires for the seat power and 2 for the foot light and 2 for the airbag

B6—————-B8
red/white - red/black (main power)
Brown - Brown (main ground)
Red/black- thin brown (light)
Purple/red - green/black (light)
And the airbag are blue - black

There is some good info in this thread about front seats wiring especially if you have a B7.

B8 S4 seats into B7 Wiring Diagram
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

As for the rears, it is not straight forward but doable

First you need to shift the back rest brackets, so I made the holes bigger to be able to shift it to the left

Grind the bolts washers

Installed.

Then you need to make the shaft a bit bigger, I used PVC tubes 3/8 and 1/2 “ on top of each other.

And you will need the B8 seatbelt buckle, the one with two buckles

And last is to get the back rest to lock in, I had to fabricate a plate and welded it to the car

The size of the car catch is

I have actually cut the catches from the S4 B8 and used them, you go to any junk yard and pick a couple, door catches should do as well.

Final product

**VinnysS4** · 10-22-2021 12:21 PM

Looks awesome bud!!!!

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**ottocycle** · 10-26-2021 01:09 PM

Very nice job on everything. How are the seats/comfort compared to the b6 recaros ?

**K1196A** · 10-26-2021 01:22 PM

Well done!

**Dondbg** · 11-01-2021 10:14 PM

Thanks guys.

I like the B8 seats, they are comfy ya but the leather is not as soft as the recaros - still I love them. And they looks awesome.

Next I need to get rid of that steering wheel and headunit next, right after I finish restoring the paint (clay bar, cut compound, polish then wax)

Painting the blades

De-chrome whatever possible

And all black badges.

**Dondbg** · 11-12-2021 08:43 PM

Latest addition

Buttons doesn’t work, still needs a module to convert the signal and it’s pricey, will wait for now.

I used B7 clock spring, steering module along with the B7 airbag connector and module connector (obviously)

Control Module - 8E0953549Q
Clock Spring - 4E0953541A
4 pin connector - 4E0972133

I had to use 8E0953549Q as 8E0953549N which my S4 got will not power the steering buttons, looks like it draw more power and the Q module can support that as it meant for vehicles with heated steering wheel.

Still 8E0953549N works on my B7 with B7 wheel that got less buttons.

I followed Gosser mini write up which u can find a link to it in the above posts

4 pin connector, just replicate how thr B6 is wired.

I re pined the B7 airbag connector as follows

1-Brown
2-Horn relay - I Added a wire and ditched the red one (see below yellow wire)
3-Green
4-Black
8-Red
9-Purple

**Dondbg** · 12-03-2021 01:10 AM

**Dondbg** · 01-09-2023 04:08 PM

Long time didn’t update, here is the latest cosmetical changes, de chromed the headlights, new lenses and ditched the hi beam and replaced it with H7 led configured as DRL, it’s bi xenon so I still got hi beam

I used this OE DRL switch

Connected using two relays as the switch will provide ground when it is in off position so had to use a two relays.
First relay to enable the use of the switch and the second to turn off the DRL when low beam is on.

The headlight wiring

**Matthewest91** · 07-27-2024 08:34 AM

Hey brother. Wondering if your still around?

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**Matthewest91** · 07-27-2024 10:15 AM

Looking for some help on b6/b7 auto to manual ecu software flashing.

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**xpl0sive** · 02-16-2025 12:30 PM

Sorry to bump this old thread. I’m doing a manual conversion on my 2007 automatic convertible S4 and have a 2006 complete donor car with a manual. Should I just use the 2006 ecu in the 2007? What other programming is required? Would it make sense to use the 2006 car’s engine harness, as it would have the reverse wire in it?