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  1. #1
    Junior Member One Ring
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    Unhappy Gearbox Malfunction :(

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    Hey everyone, I don't think I've posted anything on here before and it sucks that the first post would have to be about the infamous "Gearbox Malfunction".
    So to give some context, I bought my 2012 Audi S4 Prestige at 63k miles from someone who really took care of the car. He had a very big folder of the maintenance done and the car was still under warranty when he sold it to me. (But was going to expire within the next following months). The car is now at 69.9k miles and the Gearbox Malfunction (you can keep driving) pops up...but then goes (Gearbox malfunction ... limited driving) on top of that the TPMS thing pops up+Yellow check engine lights. My car eventually starts jerking/shifting gears as I struggle to drive the car back home (2mile distance). As for the drive experience, towards the past couple of months driving I noticed that the car would sometimes take a odd amount of time to shift to the next gear (revs really high) and sometimes have small jerks and what-not. I've read through many older posts regarding this topic and was wondering what's the closest "symptoms" I can find with someone else and see how they were able to solve this issue. I usually go to a local indie shop that specializes in Audi's but it's been nearly 2 weeks and their shop is still on holiday close. I read that people either used the mech repair kit, circuit board, or worse...replacing the whole transmission...

    TL:DR
    The "Gearbox Malfunction" lights came on and my friend helped get the fault codes by scanning my car with VCDS, and is wondering if anyone can give me more insight on this issue. Much appreciated !
    The codes that came up:

    9708 - Sensor for Gear actuator 2
    P171E1 00 [104] - Mechanical Malfunction
    Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested since memory Clear
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00000001
    Fault Priority: 2
    Fault Frenquency: 2
    Reset Counter: 40
    Mileage: 111813 km
    Date: 2019.12.26
    Time: 19:55:16

    9712 - Sensor for Gear actuator 2
    P171E1 00 [096] - Mechanical Malfunction
    Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00000001
    Fault Priority: 2
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Reset counter: 40
    Mileage: 111813 km
    Date: 2019.12.26
    Time: 18:44:20

    8030 - Cooling Oil Valve
    P179D 00 [232] - Electrical Malfunction
    MIL ON - Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00000001
    Fault Priority: 2
    Fault Frenquency: 11
    Reset Counter: 40
    Mileage: 111813 km
    Date: 2019.12.26
    Time: 14:58:38
    Last edited by GordonS4; 01-06-2020 at 09:26 PM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings fastboatster's Avatar
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    Most likely a mechatronic issue, and possibly just needs pcbs. Lets see if somebody else can chime in

  3. #3
    Active Member Two Rings
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    2008 Touareg, 2010 Q5
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    1 of those codes P179D relates to circuit board failure, the other could be related or a secondary issue can’t say I have seen it. If someone else is doing the work it depends on how much parts and labor will run you if the board doesn’t fix all of your issues and they have to go back in there again possibly to find further mech issues which includes the boards. TSB #2030477/10


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  4. #4
    Junior Member One Ring
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    Update:
    Brought my car to a indie shop and was told that I only needed to swap out the circuit board (The audi mech repair kit) and the grand total for the fix including labor was ~$2,400.
    Not sure if this is considered high since I've seen a lot of people do this repair themselves on this forum. Anyways, I had it done and the Gearbox malfunction is now gone and driving well !
    Will update if things go south again !

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Get them to do the solenoids as well whilst it’s out


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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings 03redgti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GordonS4 View Post
    Update:
    Brought my car to a indie shop and was told that I only needed to swap out the circuit board (The audi mech repair kit) and the grand total for the fix including labor was ~$2,400.
    Not sure if this is considered high since I've seen a lot of people do this repair themselves on this forum. Anyways, I had it done and the Gearbox malfunction is now gone and driving well !
    Will update if things go south again !
    holy shit ..thats wayyyy expensive LoL I paid right at a grand for my repair kit Installed..with all parts and labor. You are getting ripped off big time buddy..
    2013 S4 | Glacier White | Chestnut Brown Interior 1/13 | Sport Diff | IE Stage 2 | IE Intake | JHM V2 Test Pipes | PLM V2 HE | Custom Magnaflow Exhaust | Solo-Werks S1 | Rohana RF-2 20x10 square | Continental DWS |

  7. #7
    Junior Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03redgti View Post
    holy shit ..thats wayyyy expensive LoL I paid right at a grand for my repair kit Installed..with all parts and labor. You are getting ripped off big time buddy..
    Yeah.. I was thinking that I was being ripped off too tbh... his hourly rate is 180/hr but I really doubt the labor took more than 10 hours to do..
    If I trusted myself to do it though I would've done it myself
    He kept telling me how much hard labor it is to do, he did help me do a transmission flush/ service while he was at it though.
    Located in SF so I don't know if that makes a difference in cost. I should perhaps get quoted from other shops as well before settling with this one haha.. just that my car was limp mode and I couldn't really check other shops out unless I towed

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings 03redgti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GordonS4 View Post
    Yeah.. I was thinking that I was being ripped off too tbh... his hourly rate is 180/hr but I really doubt the labor took more than 10 hours to do..
    If I trusted myself to do it though I would've done it myself
    He kept telling me how much hard labor it is to do, he did help me do a transmission flush/ service while he was at it though.
    Located in SF so I don't know if that makes a difference in cost. I should perhaps get quoted from other shops as well before settling with this one haha.. just that my car was limp mode and I couldn't really check other shops out unless I towed
    its really not hard lol you drop the pan and the board is right there.
    2013 S4 | Glacier White | Chestnut Brown Interior 1/13 | Sport Diff | IE Stage 2 | IE Intake | JHM V2 Test Pipes | PLM V2 HE | Custom Magnaflow Exhaust | Solo-Werks S1 | Rohana RF-2 20x10 square | Continental DWS |

  9. #9
    Active Member Two Rings
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    2008 Touareg, 2010 Q5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03redgti View Post
    its really not hard lol you drop the pan and the board is right there.
    Mech has to come out to get to the boards so it’s a bit of work but nowhere near 10 hours. Glad it’s fixed though


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  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings Sleipnir's Avatar
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    Here's an interesting video I found while doing some research on the DSG that explains how the mechatronic units is designed and how it functions - including common failures. Found it quite enlightening.

    https://youtu.be/SaAqai5T8FA

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings fastboatster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GordonS4 View Post
    Yeah.. I was thinking that I was being ripped off too tbh... his hourly rate is 180/hr but I really doubt the labor took more than 10 hours to do..
    If I trusted myself to do it though I would've done it myself
    He kept telling me how much hard labor it is to do, he did help me do a transmission flush/ service while he was at it though.
    Located in SF so I don't know if that makes a difference in cost. I should perhaps get quoted from other shops as well before settling with this one haha.. just that my car was limp mode and I couldn't really check other shops out unless I towed
    Located in the same area and had the trans dropped and reinstalled by San Jose indy for 1400. And he’s not the cheapest guy.

  12. #12
    Active Member One Ring
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    Hi Guys,

    I was hoping for some useful pointers what to do next regarding my gearbox malfunction fault with my 2011 Audi SQ5 3.0 TDI common rail - 7 Speed DSG gearbox. When reducing speed its holding on to 2nd gear when pulling up to junctions then gives a surge and selects 1st. This is when the dashboard lights up with the gearbox malfunction warning. It happens in both Sports or Drive mode. All other gear changes are fine. I've just had the wiring harness in the mechatronics unit changed and also 4 solenoids but I still have the same issue. Car is in the shop now and the mechanic is saying he needs to change the circuit board. He doesn't seem confident it will fix the problem. He was confident the mechatronics repair kit would have resolved the issue but it didn't

    I previously got the gearbox software upgraded by Audi from version 11 to version 13 but it didn't cure the problem. The gear box error is P187B00 “Gear selector 2 engaging process not successful.

    Some other background to note is that this is a replacement gearbox from another Q5 2012 with 49,000 KMs. Had the problem above since it was installed

    Please let me know if there is any other information I should share to help identify the issue

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastboatster View Post
    Located in the same area and had the trans dropped and reinstalled by San Jose indy for 1400. And he’s not the cheapest guy.
    So with $500 in parts that's $1900 - which coincidentally is how much the Audi dealer in CT charged me for mechtronics replacement.....
    2012 Moonlight Blue Metallic S4 | Premium + | DSG | 19" Peelers |Sports Diff | MMI w/Nav | B&O Audio | Advanced Key |
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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings fastboatster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grovlet View Post
    So with $500 in parts that's $1900 - which coincidentally is how much the Audi dealer in CT charged me for mechtronics replacement.....
    Lol, yeah, but this was for getting the transmission removed and reinstalled. Gear range sensor replacement was another 5 hours. Nothing was done to mechatronic since it wasn't a problem

  15. #15
    Junior Member One Ring
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    Ah.. didn't want to have another update on this thread but 10 months later after changing the circuit board with the repair kit, I just got the message again "Gearbox Malfunction...limited driving".
    (I notice that my car have been having slight jerks when idled at a red light while stepping on the brakes)
    I pulled over and restarted my car and has not came back up since (48hours ago) but I believe that it'll come back eventually and will be bringing it to the shop again. My car is now at 76k miles (only driven about 6k miles since the last repair).
    I was wondering if there are anything specific that I should mention to my mechanic before I bring it to the shop.
    I've read many threads regarding this issue and have seen things from bad pcb's to transmission fluid causing the circuit board to rot etc.
    Am I going to result in swapping my transmission?

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings fastboatster's Avatar
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    Well, scan the codes again and see what’s going on this time. DL501 is a gift which keeps on giving.

  17. #17
    Junior Member One Ring
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    Update:
    My friend was out of town so I wasn't able to scan it myself but was brought to my mechanic instead. He said I have to replace my Mech Unit now since the circuit board didn't fix it (paid 4.7k total with parts+labor). Just got my car back today and although the gearbox malfunction is gone the car doesn't feel like it drives the same as it used to.. not as smooth. Is it time to just let the car go; Sucks because I just paid to have it fixed and all

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings fastboatster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GordonS4 View Post
    Update:
    My friend was out of town so I wasn't able to scan it myself but was brought to my mechanic instead. He said I have to replace my Mech Unit now since the circuit board didn't fix it (paid 4.7k total with parts+labor). Just got my car back today and although the gearbox malfunction is gone the car doesn't feel like it drives the same as it used to.. not as smooth. Is it time to just let the car go; Sucks because I just paid to have it fixed and all
    did they reset the adaptations? If they didn't, this can be the cause. Would suck to spend >4k and then sell it because of some simple adaptation steps not done.

  19. #19
    Junior Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastboatster View Post
    did they reset the adaptations? If they didn't, this can be the cause. Would suck to spend >4k and then sell it because of some simple adaptation steps not done.
    Hmm I’ll give a call to my mech and ask but that’d be nice if that’s the case and fixes things. I guess I’m just having PTSD of the gearbox malfunction and feel like it’ll still come back LOL (laughs at my own misery).. also thanks for responding fastboaster, I appreciate it !

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings 1bsingh's Avatar
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    https://youtu.be/a3JRgukeHMs


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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by GordonS4 View Post
    Hey everyone, I don't think I've posted anything on here before and it sucks that the first post would have to be about the infamous "Gearbox Malfunction".
    So to give some context, I bought my 2012 Audi S4 Prestige at 63k miles from someone who really took care of the car. He had a very big folder of the maintenance done and the car was still under warranty when he sold it to me. (But was going to expire within the next following months). The car is now at 69.9k miles and the Gearbox Malfunction (you can keep driving) pops up...but then goes (Gearbox malfunction ... limited driving) on top of that the TPMS thing pops up+Yellow check engine lights. My car eventually starts jerking/shifting gears as I struggle to drive the car back home (2mile distance). As for the drive experience, towards the past couple of months driving I noticed that the car would sometimes take a odd amount of time to shift to the next gear (revs really high) and sometimes have small jerks and what-not. I've read through many older posts regarding this topic and was wondering what's the closest "symptoms" I can find with someone else and see how they were able to solve this issue. I usually go to a local indie shop that specializes in Audi's but it's been nearly 2 weeks and their shop is still on holiday close. I read that people either used the mech repair kit, circuit board, or worse...replacing the whole transmission...

    TL:DR
    The "Gearbox Malfunction" lights came on and my friend helped get the fault codes by scanning my car with VCDS, and is wondering if anyone can give me more insight on this issue. Much appreciated !
    The codes that came up:

    9708 - Sensor for Gear actuator 2
    P171E1 00 [104] - Mechanical Malfunction
    Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested since memory Clear
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00000001
    Fault Priority: 2
    Fault Frenquency: 2
    Reset Counter: 40
    Mileage: 111813 km
    Date: 2019.12.26
    Time: 19:55:16

    9712 - Sensor for Gear actuator 2
    P171E1 00 [096] - Mechanical Malfunction
    Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00000001
    Fault Priority: 2
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Reset counter: 40
    Mileage: 111813 km
    Date: 2019.12.26
    Time: 18:44:20

    8030 - Cooling Oil Valve
    P179D 00 [232] - Electrical Malfunction
    MIL ON - Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00000001
    Fault Priority: 2
    Fault Frenquency: 11
    Reset Counter: 40
    Mileage: 111813 km
    Date: 2019.12.26
    Time: 14:58:38
    If I look at your errors codes, the 2 first one 9708 & 9712 involved mechatronic unit issue itself and the last error 8030 involved the circuit board problem. So swapping the mechatronic repair kit only address the last issue. You need to replace the mechatronic as well.

    Here is the bulletin service for the circuit board issues.
    https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...54213-2278.pdf
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  22. #22
    Junior Member Two Rings Jayboom05's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastboatster View Post
    did they reset the adaptations? If they didn't, this can be the cause. Would suck to spend >4k and then sell it because of some simple adaptation steps not done.
    I just got the same fault after doing the repair kit with the clutch solenoids. Now I only have 1st, N and Reverse... I just bought VCDS so that I can do the adaptation. I cant clear the P187B00 fault while the car is running it immediately pops back up after clearing. So I can't do (basic settings) adaptation wait the fault active. I can clear while the car is off amd ignition on but soon as I start it P187B00 is right back up. Any help is appreciated.

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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings fastboatster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayboom05 View Post
    I just got the same fault after doing the repair kit with the clutch solenoids. Now I only have 1st, N and Reverse... I just bought VCDS so that I can do the adaptation. I cant clear the P187B00 fault while the car is running it immediately pops back up after clearing. So I can't do (basic settings) adaptation wait the fault active. I can clear while the car is off amd ignition on but soon as I start it P187B00 is right back up. Any help is appreciated.

    Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
    Are you sure that mech unit shift hooks engaged their shift forks? Might be possible that one of the hooks didn’t engage its fork, sounds very similar to what some people said happened.

  24. #24
    Junior Member Two Rings Jayboom05's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastboatster View Post
    Are you sure that mech unit shift hooks engaged their shift forks? Might be possible that one of the hooks didn’t engage its fork, sounds very similar to what some people said happened.
    I'm not sure sure. It was a PITA to slide the mech up from underneath. Well guess I have buy new gaskets and screws for the pan again and definitely go buy a dedicated container for the new dsg oil to drain in. I'm hoping it's that simple.... Could you direct me to the post were someone made the same mistake? And Thanks

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  25. #25
    Senior Member Two Rings audis4culver's Avatar
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    ugh !! so my gearbox malfunction has come back after about a year of nothing. my light comes on, and then on two occasions so far about 5 minutes later +/- my parking brake light malfunction light comes and then LITERALLY MY CAR SHUTS OFF AND I AM ROLLING DOWN THE STREET AT 40 MILES PER HOUR.
    I love audis, I am a freak about them (as you might know from my post about my audi watch collection) but this is unacceptable for a car to simply shut off doing 50mph. What the hell were they thinking !!!??? So these malfunctions appear to be related/combination. I am a do it myselfer, took my whole front end off, removed and installed new cooling etc... so I can work on cars but this fix has me alittle worried. Anyone out there on a scale of 1-10 on how hard it is to do this fix yourself? meaning the circuit board. Would rather start with the simple stuff instead of going to the dealer and them telling me I need a new trans. Thanks for the help.
    2016 Audi S7

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings fastboatster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audis4culver View Post
    ugh !! so my gearbox malfunction has come back after about a year of nothing. my light comes on, and then on two occasions so far about 5 minutes later +/- my parking brake light malfunction light comes and then LITERALLY MY CAR SHUTS OFF AND I AM ROLLING DOWN THE STREET AT 40 MILES PER HOUR.
    I love audis, I am a freak about them (as you might know from my post about my audi watch collection) but this is unacceptable for a car to simply shut off doing 50mph. What the hell were they thinking !!!??? So these malfunctions appear to be related/combination. I am a do it myselfer, took my whole front end off, removed and installed new cooling etc... so I can work on cars but this fix has me alittle worried. Anyone out there on a scale of 1-10 on how hard it is to do this fix yourself? meaning the circuit board. Would rather start with the simple stuff instead of going to the dealer and them telling me I need a new trans. Thanks for the help.
    Need to scan for the codes first. When it starts acting up do you selected gear disappear on the instrument cluster by any chance? I.e. does it go blank?

  27. #27
    Senior Member Two Rings audis4culver's Avatar
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    thanks for the reply. I dont see any gear selections disappearing. I will scan as soon as my vag arrives - for too many years I have told myself to buy the darn thing and this issue finally did it.
    2016 Audi S7

  28. #28
    Senior Member Two Rings audis4culver's Avatar
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    So my scans show the following faults:
    01315 - Transmission Control Module
    8053 - Selector Lever Sensor
    P179E 00 [175] - Electrical Malfunction
    00473 - Control Module for Elect. Park/Hand Brake (J540)

    At first my gearbox warning would come on, then shortly later the parking brake warning and the car shuts off.
    Yesterday, my parking break warning came on first and the car shut off, fired it back up and then the gearbox warning came on.

    my slow drive to drop off the kids in the morning did not trigger anything but when I picked them up a few hours later - the warnings came on. My sense is that this is happening when the car hits some sort of temperature.
    I have a replacement parking brake module coming .. but I am starting to think this is pointing more towards a mechatronic issue???
    Any help would be immense - I am afraid to drive the car since it simply shuts off at times driving down the street.



    Address 02: Auto Trans (J217) Labels:| 0B5-927-156.clb
    Part No SW: 8K1 927 156 K HW: 0B5 927 156 F
    Component: 0B5 30TFSINAR H05 0008
    Revision: --H05--- Serial number: 0000001683
    Coding: 000001
    Shop #: WSC 06325 000 00000
    ASAM Dataset: EV_TCMDL501 A02087
    ROD: EV_TCMDL501.rod
    VCID: 3D27336C7DF3E303A45-8068
    2 Faults Found:
    8053 - Selector Lever Sensor
    P179E 00 [175] - Electrical Malfunction
    MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00000001
    Fault Priority: 2
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Reset counter: 40
    Mileage: 88433 km
    Date: 2021.04.03
    Time: 16:06:17
    Engine RPM: 0 /min
    Transmission input speed: 0 /min
    Transmission output speed: 0 /min
    Engine torque: -16 Nm
    ATF temperature: 81 °C
    Accelerator pedal position: 0.0 %
    Clutch status: Beide Kupplungen offen

    Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels:. 8K0-907-379-V1.clb
    Part No SW: 8K0 907 379 BJ HW: 8K0 907 379 BJ
    Component: ESP8 quattro H04 0060
    Revision: -------- Serial number: --------------
    Coding: 290D1A
    Shop #: WSC 01114 444 67458
    VCID: 025D8090440D5CFB997-8056
    1 Fault Found:
    00473 - Control Module for Elect. Park/Hand Brake (J540)
    013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00101101
    Fault Priority: 6
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Reset counter: 46
    Mileage: 88433 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2021.04.03
    Time: 16:06:06
    Freeze Frame:
    Hex Value: 0x1340
    Hex Value: 0x4006
    Hex Value: 0x1232
    Hex Value: 0x02B4
    Hex Value: 0x00FF



    1 Fault Found:
    01315 - Transmission Control Module
    013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00101101
    Fault Priority: 6
    Fault Frequency: 1
    Reset counter: 46
    Mileage: 88433 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2021.04.03
    Time: 16:06:12
    2016 Audi S7

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings fastboatster's Avatar
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    just so to be clear - what do you mean when you say the car shuts off? does the engine stops to run or it keeps running but it feels like the car is in neutral? don't waste your money on the parking brake module, when the trans is malfunctioning, you'll get a bunch of warnings from different modules such as parking brake. It is happening when the fluid in the gearset chamber of your trans gets hot, that's where the sensor you get a code for is located. It is separate from the chamber where your clutch and mech unit are, mech unit or pcbs are not likely to fix this.
    read this tsb, apparently wasn't that uncommon on b8s:
    https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...63866-7690.pdf
    some video of it's replacement:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_UcNe2mDRM
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...se-post/page11
    Last edited by fastboatster; 04-13-2021 at 12:46 PM.

  30. #30
    Senior Member Two Rings audis4culver's Avatar
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    Thanks fastboatster - very helpful links. I am 99.99% sure that its my selector sensor. I have read all the blogs you sent and they match exactly. I guess they call it limp mode - yes my car simply rolls down the street but the electronics are still on. So the car doesnt go completely off.

    I am now shopping around to see who might can do this type of complex job. Also not sure if I should replace the entire mechatronic since it will be open? My car is only 55K miles.
    In atlanta - there is the dealership and then a few european shops. The shop I really like is looking into if this is something he can do.
    So right now - dead in the water until I can find someone to do this.
    Thanks for the links - I should have found them first before posting.
    2016 Audi S7

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by audis4culver View Post
    Thanks fastboatster - very helpful links. I am 99.99% sure that its my selector sensor. I have read all the blogs you sent and they match exactly. I guess they call it limp mode - yes my car simply rolls down the street but the electronics are still on. So the car doesnt go completely off.

    I am now shopping around to see who might can do this type of complex job. Also not sure if I should replace the entire mechatronic since it will be open? My car is only 55K miles.
    In atlanta - there is the dealership and then a few european shops. The shop I really like is looking into if this is something he can do.
    So right now - dead in the water until I can find someone to do this.
    Thanks for the links - I should have found them first before posting.
    Mine is in the shop right now for the selector lever sensor and harness. 2013 S5 with 40K on the clock, fully serviced. I received a malfunction one day out of the blue, and it had both the P179E and P179F codes stored. Cleared them, drove it for about a week, and they popped again. Happens only when hot, so the sensor/harness is flaking out. I found an independent shop to pull the trans. and perform all the work, $4,100 out the door is the estimate. I've heard Audi wants $7k.

  32. #32
    Established Member Two Rings gj314's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Izzyz28 View Post
    Mine is in the shop right now for the selector lever sensor and harness. 2013 S5 with 40K on the clock, fully serviced. I received a malfunction one day out of the blue, and it had both the P179E and P179F codes stored. Cleared them, drove it for about a week, and they popped again. Happens only when hot, so the sensor/harness is flaking out. I found an independent shop to pull the trans. and perform all the work, $4,100 out the door is the estimate. I've heard Audi wants $7k.
    My car had the same issue before I bought it (2013 S4). Was fixed for $2400. image-2021-04-15-13:26:28-119.jpg

  33. #33
    Senior Member Two Rings audis4culver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Izzyz28 View Post
    Mine is in the shop right now for the selector lever sensor and harness. 2013 S5 with 40K on the clock, fully serviced. I received a malfunction one day out of the blue, and it had both the P179E and P179F codes stored. Cleared them, drove it for about a week, and they popped again. Happens only when hot, so the sensor/harness is flaking out. I found an independent shop to pull the trans. and perform all the work, $4,100 out the door is the estimate. I've heard Audi wants $7k.
    thanks for the info. first shop I called suggest doing the mechatronic as well while everything is open. i am think i most likely will do it. dont have a quote yet from them. I have emailed Atlanta dealership and waiting on a return. too bad no one has figured out how to somehow magically bypass this sensor warning - too bad we cant inject meth into this thing to keep it cool !! I have read other posts where they paid 500 for the sensor and then 1500 for the labor.
    2016 Audi S7

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings fastboatster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audis4culver View Post
    thanks for the info. first shop I called suggest doing the mechatronic as well while everything is open. i am think i most likely will do it. dont have a quote yet from them. I have emailed Atlanta dealership and waiting on a return. too bad no one has figured out how to somehow magically bypass this sensor warning - too bad we cant inject meth into this thing to keep it cool !! I have read other posts where they paid 500 for the sensor and then 1500 for the labor.
    Seems like a lot of people have/had problems with this sensor, myself including (2010 S4)
    Unfortunately, this sensor is kind of needed, it's not just returning selector lever position but also rotational speeds of both input shafts. The trans can't shift without knowing these speeds. But it is entirely possible that it's just the selector position part, and input shaft speed sensors are actually almost always okay. Seems like on B9 A4 where they continued to use DCT (DL382 I think), they moved that selector lever sensor outside the transmission and left the input shaft speed sensors in the same location. It would be great if there was some kind of service access cover to reach that sensor without tearing the trans down and dropping it. Something along these lines:

    P.S. you can easily get to your mech unit later yourself if it goes bad, you don't need to drop the trans for that and can be done on jackstands. Check the clutch condition instead, though it should be good at 55 kmiles

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    Quote Originally Posted by gj314 View Post
    My car had the same issue before I bought it (2013 S4). Was fixed for $2400. image-2021-04-15-13:26:28-119.jpg
    LOL, I need to find that shop. What do they charge for labor, $50 and hour? I'm in Chicago anyways, gotta pay to play I guess.

  36. #36
    Established Member Two Rings gj314's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Izzyz28 View Post
    LOL, I need to find that shop. What do they charge for labor, $50 and hour? I'm in Chicago anyways, gotta pay to play I guess.
    Transmission shop in Old Saybrook, CT called Eriksson Industries
    http://www.erikssonindustries.com/

  37. #37
    Established Member Two Rings Keymainey's Avatar
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    Like fastbostster said, mech isn't needed at this point. I had this issue on my 2013 S4. It cost me right around $3k for all parts and labor. It's not only the sensor, i replaced every part in the tsb. I was quoted 18 hr job at $100. Audi told me $7.4k and 22 hour job smh.

  38. #38
    Senior Member Two Rings audis4culver's Avatar
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    so i brought my car into the shop - they replaced my gear selector module which is what was throwing the codes and everyone thought was the issue. same code re-appeared and car goes into limp mode. they then thought it was possibly a faulty module. They installed another one and same issue - car goes into limp mode after it gets driven a few miles.
    They cant get any other codes that are being thrown to see if there is something else going on. so the only idea left is to put in another transmission.
    any thoughts on other possible issues? they said my trans looks fine, my car has 54K mech unit they say looks fine as well.
    2016 Audi S7

  39. #39
    Established Member Two Rings Keymainey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audis4culver View Post
    so i brought my car into the shop - they replaced my gear selector module which is what was throwing the codes and everyone thought was the issue. same code re-appeared and car goes into limp mode. they then thought it was possibly a faulty module. They installed another one and same issue - car goes into limp mode after it gets driven a few miles.
    They cant get any other codes that are being thrown to see if there is something else going on. so the only idea left is to put in another transmission.
    any thoughts on other possible issues? they said my trans looks fine, my car has 54K mech unit they say looks fine as well.
    Did they replace everything that was in the TSB? Mainly the harness?

  40. #40
    Senior Member Two Rings audis4culver's Avatar
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    a module 0b5927321f and a harness 0b5321391a not sure what to do... they are calling me back with a price for a used trans.
    2016 Audi S7

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