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Thread: RS5 injectors

  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    RS5 injectors

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    Looking into replacing all of my injectors. I actually tripped my first code ever (that wasn't induced by me), cylinder misfire, cylinder 3 with cylinder shut down. Swapped coils, it didn't move. Reset the codes and car runs but it's definitely missing on that cylinder on occasion.

    So...instead of swapping out just one, planning on doing all eight.

    The OEM part number is 079906036AD. That's the latest part number as far as I can tell.

    When I pulled my OEM injectors, they were Continental and made in Italy. Looking at replacements, seems there's only one other company making a replacement injector, Standard Motor Products, part number FJ1142.

    The Standard Motor Products injector is about $40 less expensive per injector. I'm not necessarily inclined to get the OEM injectors as they seem prone to failure anyway so I don't see the advantage of paying the Audi tax. Looks like Standard is an American company but no telling where the injectors are actually made.

    Best price I've found on the Audi OEM injector is $134 each where the Standards are about $93 on average.

    Doesn't seem like the Hitachi injectors will work. Thoughts?
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  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings croltean's Avatar
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    As much as I hate EBay- check there as well. I found them from the UK for $78 a piece shipped. They were oem continental.


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    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    Didn't see anything on the UK site but there was a set on the U.S. site that I'm trying to snag. Thanks for the heads up though!
    Instagram: redmist5 Youtube; https://tinyurl.com/redmistvideos
    2013 Audi RS5 Misano Red-Klassen ID M10/JHM Tune/AWE Exhaust/Eventuri Intake/Bilstein PSS10/H&R Sways/STERN/CR-15//ECS SS Brake Lines/Rear Diff Bushing/ECS rear diff inserts, front end links/034 Motorsports subframe inserts & Rear End Links/Tranny insert/E-code head, tail lights/Maxton splitter/Red Trim Start Button/black emblems/VCDS.

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    When I went through the RS5 fiasco in the summer with the indy shop who were incompetent, Audi replaced them with OEM, even though it was only 1 injector having the issue. I'd go OEM.
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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    I snagged the OEM set off of eBay. Will be interesting to see how much carbon I have built up over 10K miles since my last carbon clean.
    Instagram: redmist5 Youtube; https://tinyurl.com/redmistvideos
    2013 Audi RS5 Misano Red-Klassen ID M10/JHM Tune/AWE Exhaust/Eventuri Intake/Bilstein PSS10/H&R Sways/STERN/CR-15//ECS SS Brake Lines/Rear Diff Bushing/ECS rear diff inserts, front end links/034 Motorsports subframe inserts & Rear End Links/Tranny insert/E-code head, tail lights/Maxton splitter/Red Trim Start Button/black emblems/VCDS.

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    Established Member Two Rings croltean's Avatar
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    Sweet! The new injectors will make a world of difference. Mine were so bad I don’t know how they kept the car running.



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  7. #7
    Senior Member Three Rings SteveRS4's Avatar
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    What's your mileage on those injectors mine were not as bad as that at 50k miles had a bit of carbon but those are quite bad.

    Michel i did have a look for you over here in the U.K but there was nothing really like you said glad you got sorted buddy

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  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings croltean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveRS4 View Post
    What's your mileage on those injectors mine were not as bad as that at 50k miles had a bit of carbon but those are quite bad.

    Michel i did have a look for you over here in the U.K but there was nothing really like you said glad you got sorted buddy

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    I believe about 72k when I removed them.


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    This is something to consider. I am currently looking at a car with 65k miles. Should I budget for injector replacement? I was planning on doing the carbon clean in the spring.
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  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings croltean's Avatar
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    RS5 injectors

    Quote Originally Posted by z_wrecker View Post
    This is something to consider. I am currently looking at a car with 65k miles. Should I budget for injector replacement? I was planning on doing the carbon clean in the spring.
    I would at least send them out to get cleaned and resealed. They will more than likely have to be removed to do the carbon cleaning and sometimes that’s when the issues begin as the old seals/o-rings don’t seat properly and you get leaks.

    Definitely work that into your negotiation if you decide to move forward.


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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings z_wrecker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by croltean View Post
    I would at least send them out to get cleaned and resealed. They will more than likely have to be removed to do the carbon cleaning and sometimes that’s when the issues begin as the old seals/o-rings don’t seat properly and you get leaks.

    Definitely work that into your negotiation if you decide to move forward.


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    Thanks! Will do. I am still on the fence about going the RS5 route...especially never having driven one yet. I just know if I do drive it...I’ll take it home.


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    2018 Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio
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    2009 Pearl White Ducati Monster 696 with Termi race kit, and a bunch of CF -Sold
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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    Arrived back home this afternoon and dove right in to the RS5. Swapped all eight injectors. The offending injector, #3, looked no different from the others. I'll most likely hunt down a shop that has experience rebuilding these types of injectors and have them tested, possibly rebuilt just to have a second set.

    I used the "home brew" method for installation of new seals on the original injectors when I did my carbon cleaning and they appeared to all be intact.

    New ones went in without a hitch and the car fired up remarkably quickly before settling into a buttery idle. Problem solved.

    Just to reiterate, I had code P0300 as well as cylinder deactivation, with the more specific code of P0303 which is for cylinder misfire, cylinder number 3. It's the 2nd from the top in the photo below.


    Replacements were genuine Audi, latest part number, 079906036AD.


    I carbon cleaned the engine almost a year ago and I've put about 10,000 miles on the odometer in the last year. There was more carbon buildup, looked ok for the most part, not horrible. It was super gummy and I picked at a bit of it. If I'd had some valve cleaner handy, I may have sprayed everything down. I'll probably carbon clean it again in a year.
    Instagram: redmist5 Youtube; https://tinyurl.com/redmistvideos
    2013 Audi RS5 Misano Red-Klassen ID M10/JHM Tune/AWE Exhaust/Eventuri Intake/Bilstein PSS10/H&R Sways/STERN/CR-15//ECS SS Brake Lines/Rear Diff Bushing/ECS rear diff inserts, front end links/034 Motorsports subframe inserts & Rear End Links/Tranny insert/E-code head, tail lights/Maxton splitter/Red Trim Start Button/black emblems/VCDS.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Three Rings Yoda1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ape Factory View Post
    Arrived back home this afternoon and dove right in to the RS5. Swapped all eight injectors. Problem solved.


    It was super gummy and I picked at a bit of it. If I'd had some valve cleaner handy, I may have sprayed everything down. I'll probably carbon clean it again in a year.
    First, glad you were able to fix this! Relatively easy I think?

    Regarding the valves being sticky, I’ve been counting on this to happen after a fresh carbon clean. My plan is to use a can of carbon cleaner solvent, 1 can per TB to dissolve the intake gunk every 10k miles. I think any cleaner would be more effective at dissolving and no chance of solid pieces of carbon falling into the engine if used early after cleans to greatly reduce maybe eliminate carbon buildup. Ape, I think your car is at a good spot for carbon cleaner if you choose to.
    2006 Audi A3 for daily stuff.
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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    Not sure carbon cleaner via the throttle bodies would be ideal from a distribution standpoint.

    Random thoughts...I've thought about just spraying the valves directly (periodically) with cleaner and letting it sit overnight kind of thing. May consider doing that the night before an oil change (potential dilution issues as the solvent seeps past the rings). I can pull the manifold pretty easily now, takes me less than an hour. The main issue would be removing the lower intake manifold and pulling the injectors out of their bores. They came up with the lower intake manifold again. All of them, both sides. But...one could use a vacuum pump and just pump the flaps open and shoot the valves that way. Most of the heavy buildup is on the back of the valve head. As you can see in the photo, the stems were fairly clean as were the walls (very thin, transparent layer). One or two were worse than the others but most were about the same as the photo. I pulled the MAP sensor but it was fairly clean. The intake runners had a very thin layer of oil on them but they weren't dripping with oil by any means. I did clean the port dividers as I could just pull them easily and wash them off.

    Since installing the new injectors, I've noticed a few things. First, the engine sounds a bit meaner. More pops and bangs on easy shifts and deceleration. Idle is super smooth and the engine is a bit more crisp overall and seems to have gained some volume with the exhaust flaps open. I reset the fuel trim and I noticed, right away, the short term idle fuel trim went into negative territory. I'm sure the car is going to adapt over time to the new injectors. There's less hesitation than before too. I'll continue to monitor changes in short and long term fuel trim. Bank 1 was generally at about +6% which is very close to the maximum deviation from normal before needing to change components out. I'll need to drive my normal loop to really determine any changes. Haven't had the chance to do that yet.

    I've been looking for a service to have the original injectors inspected, cleaned and rebuilt if possible. From what I've been reading, there are two ways they fail; dirt clogging up the internal passages and the piezo crystals cracking. There's nothing that can be done about the crystals physically cracking.

    In terms of testing, I haven't found anyone who states they're being tested at full pressure which might be an issue for spray pattern and ultimately flow. One company said they just interpolate via mathematics but I don't think that'll be 100% accurate. There are large differences between testing at 100psi and 3,000psi.

    I did notice the #3 cylinder looked REALLY clean. Valves were open enough I could see the piston. Most of the misfires were coming at idle and would stop if I increased the revs. I monitored that in real time.

    About three days before throwing codes, the exhaust sound changed ever so slightly. It was very slight but I noticed and didn't think too much of it other than it was odd. A day before the codes were thrown, I felt like the car was slightly down on power. Still idled fine. The day codes were stored and the engine light came on, I had a definite "lope" like one cylinder wasn't firing (and it wasn't as the cylinder was disabled). You can clear the codes and the car will run with the periodic miss but you'll risk total injector failure and possible hydrolock. Given my misfires were at idle, I wasn't super worried but I was also headed out of town and wouldn't be driving the car.

    Pulling the plugs, the porcelain insulator on #3 was darker than the other cylinders. The ground strap/electrode was clean.

    I think these injectors "work" until they don't. Perhaps spray pattern gets bad but they generally work well enough that the car seems to perform until there's a full injector failure. They reach a certain point where either idle is affected (and it's obvious) or a code is thrown. There wasn't a particular issue that led me to believe the injector was on it's way out. I think if you keep track of misfires via the VCDS, you may catch it early. The misfire count on 3 was pretty high. The only early sign, as I mentioned earlier, was the slightly changed exhaust tone. It wasn't the pulsing that changed, it was the actual tone or timbre of the exhaust. It developed a slight "cocked" sound, a bit higher in pitch. The musicians here will know what I mean.

    Perhaps, just maybe, this was one of the reasons why I haven't been achieving better elapsed times when I hit the drag strip. My mph is way up but not my ET. I'll try to head back to the drag strip soon to see if there's any improvement. Any hesitations seem to have been greatly reduced, maybe that'll translate into a better ET.

    From a maintenance standpoint, this may be something we all consider doing at some point if performance is the main driver. There are many RS5's who've never experienced an injector failure, even those with over 100K miles. Like every other part, it's a crap shoot. With that said, I had one obviously bad injector and one other which had a higher misfire count than the rest. But six were just fine as far as I can tell. Perhaps testing will reveal injector issues which could lead to reduced performance.

    I know the injector has had several part number revisions. Maybe it's just that, a number, or maybe Continental made internal changes. Who knows. But here's the full list of former part numbers;
    Supersession(s): 079906036AC; 079906036G; 079906036N; 079906036T; 79906036AD

    We really just need to develop an auxiliary port injection rail. If our Bosch Medtronic 17.1.1 is capable of controlling 16 injectors, it wouldn't be super hard to design a new lower intake manifold using the R8 V2 Gen 2 LIM as a template. Same intake port spacing. Flaps would be eliminated and there's enough room outboard to add injector bungs and a rail. Wouldn't be cheap but it'd most likely cost the same as two carbon cleanings. Thinking this may be my next project. The R8 V10 uses the same ECU, 17.1.1, which has to control 20 injectors, 10 piezo GDI and 10 port. Food for thought.
    Instagram: redmist5 Youtube; https://tinyurl.com/redmistvideos
    2013 Audi RS5 Misano Red-Klassen ID M10/JHM Tune/AWE Exhaust/Eventuri Intake/Bilstein PSS10/H&R Sways/STERN/CR-15//ECS SS Brake Lines/Rear Diff Bushing/ECS rear diff inserts, front end links/034 Motorsports subframe inserts & Rear End Links/Tranny insert/E-code head, tail lights/Maxton splitter/Red Trim Start Button/black emblems/VCDS.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Three Rings SteveRS4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ape Factory View Post
    Not sure carbon cleaner via the throttle bodies would be ideal from a distribution standpoint.

    Random thoughts...I've thought about just spraying the valves directly (periodically) with cleaner and letting it sit overnight kind of thing. May consider doing that the night before an oil change (potential dilution issues as the solvent seeps past the rings). I can pull the manifold pretty easily now, takes me less than an hour. The main issue would be removing the lower intake manifold and pulling the injectors out of their bores. They came up with the lower intake manifold again. All of them, both sides. But...one could use a vacuum pump and just pump the flaps open and shoot the valves that way. Most of the heavy buildup is on the back of the valve head. As you can see in the photo, the stems were fairly clean as were the walls (very thin, transparent layer). One or two were worse than the others but most were about the same as the photo. I pulled the MAP sensor but it was fairly clean. The intake runners had a very thin layer of oil on them but they weren't dripping with oil by any means. I did clean the port dividers as I could just pull them easily and wash them off.

    Since installing the new injectors, I've noticed a few things. First, the engine sounds a bit meaner. More pops and bangs on easy shifts and deceleration. Idle is super smooth and the engine is a bit more crisp overall and seems to have gained some volume with the exhaust flaps open. I reset the fuel trim and I noticed, right away, the short term idle fuel trim went into negative territory. I'm sure the car is going to adapt over time to the new injectors. There's less hesitation than before too. I'll continue to monitor changes in short and long term fuel trim. Bank 1 was generally at about +6% which is very close to the maximum deviation from normal before needing to change components out. I'll need to drive my normal loop to really determine any changes. Haven't had the chance to do that yet.

    I've been looking for a service to have the original injectors inspected, cleaned and rebuilt if possible. From what I've been reading, there are two ways they fail; dirt clogging up the internal passages and the piezo crystals cracking. There's nothing that can be done about the crystals physically cracking.

    In terms of testing, I haven't found anyone who states they're being tested at full pressure which might be an issue for spray pattern and ultimately flow. One company said they just interpolate via mathematics but I don't think that'll be 100% accurate. There are large differences between testing at 100psi and 3,000psi.

    I did notice the #3 cylinder looked REALLY clean. Valves were open enough I could see the piston. Most of the misfires were coming at idle and would stop if I increased the revs. I monitored that in real time.

    About three days before throwing codes, the exhaust sound changed ever so slightly. It was very slight but I noticed and didn't think too much of it other than it was odd. A day before the codes were thrown, I felt like the car was slightly down on power. Still idled fine. The day codes were stored and the engine light came on, I had a definite "lope" like one cylinder wasn't firing (and it wasn't as the cylinder was disabled). You can clear the codes and the car will run with the periodic miss but you'll risk total injector failure and possible hydrolock. Given my misfires were at idle, I wasn't super worried but I was also headed out of town and wouldn't be driving the car.

    Pulling the plugs, the porcelain insulator on #3 was darker than the other cylinders. The ground strap/electrode was clean.

    I think these injectors "work" until they don't. Perhaps spray pattern gets bad but they generally work well enough that the car seems to perform until there's a full injector failure. They reach a certain point where either idle is affected (and it's obvious) or a code is thrown. There wasn't a particular issue that led me to believe the injector was on it's way out. I think if you keep track of misfires via the VCDS, you may catch it early. The misfire count on 3 was pretty high. The only early sign, as I mentioned earlier, was the slightly changed exhaust tone. It wasn't the pulsing that changed, it was the actual tone or timbre of the exhaust. It developed a slight "cocked" sound, a bit higher in pitch. The musicians here will know what I mean.

    Perhaps, just maybe, this was one of the reasons why I haven't been achieving better elapsed times when I hit the drag strip. My mph is way up but not my ET. I'll try to head back to the drag strip soon to see if there's any improvement. Any hesitations seem to have been greatly reduced, maybe that'll translate into a better ET.

    From a maintenance standpoint, this may be something we all consider doing at some point if performance is the main driver. There are many RS5's who've never experienced an injector failure, even those with over 100K miles. Like every other part, it's a crap shoot. With that said, I had one obviously bad injector and one other which had a higher misfire count than the rest. But six were just fine as far as I can tell. Perhaps testing will reveal injector issues which could lead to reduced performance.

    I know the injector has had several part number revisions. Maybe it's just that, a number, or maybe Continental made internal changes. Who knows. But here's the full list of former part numbers;
    Supersession(s): 079906036AC; 079906036G; 079906036N; 079906036T; 79906036AD

    We really just need to develop an auxiliary port injection rail. If our Bosch Medtronic 17.1.1 is capable of controlling 16 injectors, it wouldn't be super hard to design a new lower intake manifold using the R8 V2 Gen 2 LIM as a template. Same intake port spacing. Flaps would be eliminated and there's enough room outboard to add injector bungs and a rail. Wouldn't be cheap but it'd most likely cost the same as two carbon cleanings. Thinking this may be my next project. The R8 V10 uses the same ECU, 17.1.1, which has to control 20 injectors, 10 piezo GDI and 10 port. Food for thought.
    Hey Ape on the vcds how do you measure the misfire count what number measuring blocks ? Also what should they be reading between if working ok ?

    I love your input on things its interesting you are like a book of knowledge !!

    Thanks buddy

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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    To log misfires in real time with the Ross-Tech VCDS, go to the Engine module and select Adv. Measuring Values. Once there, a secondary window will pop up with all the various parameters you can measure. Type in misfire in the top window and all the different measuring blocks for misfires will pop up. Check the ones for misfire per cylinder (there's eight). Once checked and with the engine running, the numbers will change in real time if there's an issue. I think I have a screen grab of when I was logging, I'll have to pull it off my PC and post it.

    If it's working ok, you'll have a relatively low overall misfire count for each cylinder. If one is substantially higher than the rest, might want to look into replacing that injector.
    Instagram: redmist5 Youtube; https://tinyurl.com/redmistvideos
    2013 Audi RS5 Misano Red-Klassen ID M10/JHM Tune/AWE Exhaust/Eventuri Intake/Bilstein PSS10/H&R Sways/STERN/CR-15//ECS SS Brake Lines/Rear Diff Bushing/ECS rear diff inserts, front end links/034 Motorsports subframe inserts & Rear End Links/Tranny insert/E-code head, tail lights/Maxton splitter/Red Trim Start Button/black emblems/VCDS.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Three Rings SteveRS4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ape Factory View Post
    To log misfires in real time with the Ross-Tech VCDS, go to the Engine module and select Adv. Measuring Values. Once there, a secondary window will pop up with all the various parameters you can measure. Type in misfire in the top window and all the different measuring blocks for misfires will pop up. Check the ones for misfire per cylinder (there's eight). Once checked and with the engine running, the numbers will change in real time if there's an issue. I think I have a screen grab of when I was logging, I'll have to pull it off my PC and post it.

    If it's working ok, you'll have a relatively low overall misfire count for each cylinder. If one is substantially higher than the rest, might want to look into replacing that injector.
    That's great thank you buddy i haven't had my Ross-Tech VCDS very long and I'm still learning ! Ill have look to make sure there all running ok as you know I've had the injectors out lately and replaced all the injector seals so it would be good to make sure everything is how it should be, if you can post up the info of your PC that would be great. Thanks again

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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings BuyTheWarranty's Avatar
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    Curious if you get a better 1/4 time now. What was your mileage when the misfire occurred?

    Have you done your plugs as well?

  19. #19
    Senior Member Three Rings SteveRS4's Avatar
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    Also out of interest if you have just done the injector seals and you only replaced the faulty injector/s would you need to change the seals again ??

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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    I used https://www.injector.com/cart/pc/home.asp to clean some Bosch Port injectors years ago. They list DI on their site?
    2003 RS6 (6Spd)
    2013 RS5 (Headers, Aluminum DSG Flywheel,JHM Stg2, etc...)
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuyTheWarranty View Post
    Curious if you get a better 1/4 time now. What was your mileage when the misfire occurred?

    Have you done your plugs as well?
    Strangely, plugs were done about two or three weeks prior. I think 60K or whatever they recommend is way too long an interval for plugs. More like 20K. I just passed 64K imperial miles. I may do my coils just for the hell of it.
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    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveRS4 View Post
    Also out of interest if you have just done the injector seals and you only replaced the faulty injector/s would you need to change the seals again ??

    Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
    Any time the injectors are removed from their bore in the cylinder head, the combustion chamber seal must be replaced unfortunately. New injectors come with new seals already installed which makes it a bit easier. But after only just 10K, the injectors all came out of the cylinder head when I pulled the lower intake manifolds up. There was no way around it.

    I used rebuild kits when I did the carbon cleaning and the top o-rings were blue. The OEM pre-installed o-rings are brown, even on the new injectors. To me, the blue o-rings looked a bit beefier. Might be why they were in the fuel rail so snugly.
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    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hahnmgh63 View Post
    I used https://www.injector.com/cart/pc/home.asp to clean some Bosch Port injectors years ago. They list DI on their site?
    Just checked out their page and yes, they list DI. I'll shoot them an email and find out what their process is and report back.
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    Senior Member Three Rings Yoda1's Avatar
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    Good read good info Ape! Thanks!

    I’ll give some more thought to getting spray mist into intake to clean valves and chambers. Impressive you can get past removal of heads in an hour.
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  25. #25
    Senior Member Three Rings SteveRS4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ape Factory View Post
    Any time the injectors are removed from their bore in the cylinder head, the combustion chamber seal must be replaced unfortunately. New injectors come with new seals already installed which makes it a bit easier. But after only just 10K, the injectors all came out of the cylinder head when I pulled the lower intake manifolds up. There was no way around it.

    I used rebuild kits when I did the carbon cleaning and the top o-rings were blue. The OEM pre-installed o-rings are brown, even on the new injectors. To me, the blue o-rings looked a bit beefier. Might be why they were in the fuel rail so snugly.
    Thanks Ape ! That's a shame as i know you hadn't had them on long. When i did mine all the injectors came out with the LIM as well i think that's the case and you have to expect that when lifting the LIM. Still at least the new injectors have all new seals fitted that's a bonus !!

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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ape Factory View Post
    Strangely, plugs were done about two or three weeks prior. I think 60K or whatever they recommend is way too long an interval for plugs. More like 20K. I just passed 64K imperial miles. I may do my coils just for the hell of it.
    Might as well do the coils, especially if you’re doing the supercharger...

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings JamesRS5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ape Factory View Post
    Any time the injectors are removed from their bore in the cylinder head, the combustion chamber seal must be replaced unfortunately. New injectors come with new seals already installed which makes it a bit easier. But after only just 10K, the injectors all came out of the cylinder head when I pulled the lower intake manifolds up. There was no way around it.

    I used rebuild kits when I did the carbon cleaning and the top o-rings were blue. The OEM pre-installed o-rings are brown, even on the new injectors. To me, the blue o-rings looked a bit beefier. Might be why they were in the fuel rail so snugly.
    O-Ring color usually denotes the material used in production, blue would be Flourosilicone and brown Viton, the temperature rating of the material should also be taken into consideration with o rings.

    Be careful with the blue flourosilicone, they have a lower temperature rating and aren't as effective with petroleum, they are more commonly used with jet fuel. The brown Viton would be a better choice.

  28. #28
    Senior Member Three Rings SteveRS4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesRS5 View Post
    O-Ring color usually denotes the material used in production, blue would be Flourosilicone and brown Viton, the temperature rating of the material should also be taken into consideration with o rings.

    Be careful with the blue flourosilicone, they have a lower temperature rating and aren't as effective with petroleum, they are more commonly used with jet fuel. The brown Viton would be a better choice.
    I ordered my seals from Audi and they were brown vitron not blue i just thought they were blue because they were from a different company that's all glad i know now good call

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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ape Factory View Post
    To log misfires in real time with the Ross-Tech VCDS, go to the Engine module and select Adv. Measuring Values. Once there, a secondary window will pop up with all the various parameters you can measure. Type in misfire in the top window and all the different measuring blocks for misfires will pop up. Check the ones for misfire per cylinder (there's eight). Once checked and with the engine running, the numbers will change in real time if there's an issue. I think I have a screen grab of when I was logging, I'll have to pull it off my PC and post it.

    If it's working ok, you'll have a relatively low overall misfire count for each cylinder. If one is substantially higher than the rest, might want to look into replacing that injector.
    Hey Ape went on my VCDS today typed in misfire it came up with misfire per 1000rpm cylinder 1 i see all 8 but then looking into it a bit more i found Number of misfire per cylinder 1 to 8 so was wondering what's the right one i should be looking at ?? Also is there a way to reset these ? Thanks in advance !

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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesRS5 View Post
    O-Ring color usually denotes the material used in production, blue would be Flourosilicone and brown Viton, the temperature rating of the material should also be taken into consideration with o rings.

    Be careful with the blue flourosilicone, they have a lower temperature rating and aren't as effective with petroleum, they are more commonly used with jet fuel. The brown Viton would be a better choice.
    Interesting...these were directly from the local Audi dealer, Audi-branded, Audi part number. I have black viton seals too. The ones in the transmission cooler kit are viton (and black), from Audi. I know the S4 guys have a different color seal too. The "kit" part number for the seals is different from the RS5 though. Seals were all intact and fine, no tears, no leaks, no deformation. Might be an optical illusion, the bright blue making them look bigger than dark brown. I'll measure them when I get a moment!
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  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveRS4 View Post
    Hey Ape went on my VCDS today typed in misfire it came up with misfire per 1000rpm cylinder 1 i see all 8 but then looking into it a bit more i found Number of misfire per cylinder 1 to 8 so was wondering what's the right one i should be looking at ?? Also is there a way to reset these ? Thanks in advance !

    Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
    I believe disconnecting the battery will reset the counter. I checked mine yesterday while doing a bit of logging and they were all at zero (yes!).

    You'll want to check the box for each one, number of misfires per 1000, cylinders 1-8. Should have eight boxes checked and the car running. You don't really need to "log" it, can just monitor in the window. I could see mine (#3) changing at idle but as I raised the revs, the misfires stopped. I was 100% sure it was the fuel injector alone at that point.

    I have the screen grabs to post, just haven't had the time to pull them off the PC and get them over to the Mac. Will have time this evening.
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  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings JamesRS5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ape Factory View Post
    Interesting...these were directly from the local Audi dealer, Audi-branded, Audi part number. I have black viton seals too. The ones in the transmission cooler kit are viton (and black), from Audi. I know the S4 guys have a different color seal too. The "kit" part number for the seals is different from the RS5 though. Seals were all intact and fine, no tears, no leaks, no deformation. Might be an optical illusion, the bright blue making them look bigger than dark brown. I'll measure them when I get a moment!
    I wouldn't worry about it Michel, Viton can come in multiple colors, black definitely being one of them. We get super anal about o-rings used in jet engine fuel systems, black Viton and blue flourosilicone are often incorrectly substituted for each other. What temperatures would you expect to see on the fuel injector seal area?

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    I’d imagine 200F fairly easily, probably somewhere between there and 300F. The hpfp’s alone get damn hot and I’m sure they increase the fuel temps pretty dramatically. Anyone have an infrared heat thermometer?
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  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings JamesRS5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ape Factory View Post
    I’d imagine 200F fairly easily, probably somewhere between there and 300F. The hpfp’s alone get damn hot and I’m sure they increase the fuel temps pretty dramatically. Anyone have an infrared heat thermometer?
    I do.

    Flourosilicone is fine at 350 so you're good.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ape Factory View Post
    I believe disconnecting the battery will reset the counter. I checked mine yesterday while doing a bit of logging and they were all at zero (yes!).

    You'll want to check the box for each one, number of misfires per 1000, cylinders 1-8. Should have eight boxes checked and the car running. You don't really need to "log" it, can just monitor in the window. I could see mine (#3) changing at idle but as I raised the revs, the misfires stopped. I was 100% sure it was the fuel injector alone at that point.

    I have the screen grabs to post, just haven't had the time to pull them off the PC and get them over to the Mac. Will have time this evening.
    Thanks ape ill try the battery to reset ! Glad yours is all ok reading zero that's a result back to putting the pedal to the metal !!! I've looked at mine today misfires per x1000rpm 1-8 all reading zero engine running put some rev's in and all still at zero so all is good for now but ill keep an eye on it as i put the miles on.

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  36. #36
    Veteran Member Four Rings Klum00's Avatar
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    Reviving this post...

    100k on the clock and not sure when the last carbon cleaning was, so it's time. I'll be doing the injectors as well, but got a little sticker shock on the price of these things! Any updates on OEM alternatives, potential for cleaning/rebuilding or a cheaper source for OEM?

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  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Definitely not cheap, https://www.buyaudivwparts.com/oem-p...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D But they do fit a few other Audi's. Find a low mileage recent wreck. I say recent as you don't want a set of injectors that have been sitting for a year or more.
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  38. #38
    Established Member Two Rings dylanjh's Avatar
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    52,000 miles on my 2015 RS5 and it just broke down. Tech found static misfires on Cyl 3 and 5, soaked fuel plugs, and injectors 3 and 5 don't hold rail pressure.

    Replacing all 8 injectors/spark plugs. Weighing whether to do a carbon cleaning but not sure how much longer I'll keep the vehicle.

  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    I would absolutely do the carbon clean since you'll have everything apart at that point. Really no excuse for the injectors failing like this. Scarily enough, you got lucky. I have a friend who lost his engine when three injectors went south. Covered under warranty and Audi had to start up CFSA engine production again just to get him a new engine. I think it took three months or longer.

    Any warning signs prior that you could share?
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  40. #40
    Veteran Member Four Rings Ape Factory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Klum00 View Post
    Reviving this post...

    100k on the clock and not sure when the last carbon cleaning was, so it's time. I'll be doing the injectors as well, but got a little sticker shock on the price of these things! Any updates on OEM alternatives, potential for cleaning/rebuilding or a cheaper source for OEM?
    You'll want OEM or nothing. I would not go with any of the aftermarket offerings unfortunately.
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