USP balance shaft delete kit

[Jayz691]

Wasa also has a solid sprocket setup, so you can keep your balance shaft, but eliminate the weak point (the dampened sprocket). I'm doing one or the other, just haven't decided which one. Prob freewheel, since shipping time from Sweden is prob a few weeks. If everything is in good shape, with no play, I would prob prefer the solid design, and keep the balance shaft. But problem is, I won't know till I pull it apart. And can't have my car down for weeks. And the solid sprocket will add some stress to the chain, so obviously replace chain and tensioner while there. Which would do either way really. Any opinions on this? Not planning on going BT or anything, so not gonna have crazy power or rpms. That may make a difference.

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[Charles.waite]

That’s an interesting idea. I’m curious how much the removing the decoupled sprocket will affect things.

[Jayz691]

That’s an interesting idea. I’m curious how much the removing the decoupled sprocket will affect things.

Addresses the weak point, being the sprocket. But the dampened sprocket it to lower stress on the chain. But with new chain, id think it would be fine. But would like to know some how. But I guess it would be like any other chain with normal sprocket??

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[rongeur]

I never had the sense the decoupled sprocket was the failure point. The failed pumps I have seen were due to seized balance shafts presumably due to inadequate oil levels / changes.


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[BSTD_B7]

I never had the sense the decoupled sprocket was the failure point. The failed pumps I have seen were due to seized balance shafts presumably due to inadequate oil levels / changes.


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Agreed, everything I’ve heard/seen has been that the shafts seize & on occasion the seized shafts cause the bolt on the pinion to shear off


Big Turbo B7
MK1 TT 225 Roadster

[Jayz691]

I believe the tdi has the failures on shafts themselves, and tfsi is the sprocket. But thats just what ive heard from people with the issue. But matbe its both. Thats even what the replacement sprockets were designed for. Thats why they offer a solid and freewheel. But like I said, just going by what I heard. But how exactly do the shafts seize up? Curious now...

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[rongeur]

Lack of oil in sump is probably the most likely cause. The engine I bought off of eBay a few years back for the block came as oil pump failure. The pump was heavily varnished, seized balance shaft , snapped chain and a sheared torx bolt.


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[Charles.waite]

I believe the tdi has the failures on shafts themselves, and tfsi is the sprocket. But thats just what ive heard from people with the issue. But matbe its both. Thats even what the replacement sprockets were designed for. Thats why they offer a solid and freewheel. But like I said, just going by what I heard. But how exactly do the shafts seize up? Curious now...

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Well it sorta depends on how you define “failure”. The sprocket can shear off but that’s generally because the balance shafts wear so badly, oil pressure to them gets really bad and then one of them seizes and the chain snaps the gear off. I don’t think I’ve heard of one instance where the sprocket itself was the failure point and there were no other failure signs in the pump or balance shafts.

I mean yea it could happen, I guess. But it’s not a weak point at all. The idea of replacing the sprocket with a solid one is still interesting of course. But hardly addressing an inherent weakness in the balance shafts.

[Jayz691]

Well it sorta depends on how you define “failure”. The sprocket can shear off but that’s generally because the balance shafts wear so badly, oil pressure to them gets really bad and then one of them seizes and the chain snaps the gear off. I don’t think I’ve heard of one instance where the sprocket itself was the failure point and there were no other failure signs in the pump or balance shafts.

I mean yea it could happen, I guess. But it’s not a weak point at all. The idea of replacing the sprocket with a solid one is still interesting of course. But hardly addressing an inherent weakness in the balance shafts.

Ok, well either way, the freewheel will take care of it. Think you just made my decision for me, lol.

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[Charles.waite]

If you’re fine with more vibrations it’s a good solution. Just be forewarned the engine will run tougher, like a 1.8t but a little bit more since it’s got larger pistons and thus more reciprocating mass.

Definitely not the end of the world but just wanted to clarify that there are material downsides to deleting the balance shaft function. Let us know how it goes though! Most of the guys who have done it have done it in the process of a larger build and really can’t offer back to back type of impressions because they’d had their car non-driveable for months or years so they couldn’t really offer a back to back comparison of the NVH increase from balance shaft delete.

[Jayz691]

If you’re fine with more vibrations it’s a good solution. Just be forewarned the engine will run tougher, like a 1.8t but a little bit more since it’s got larger pistons and thus more reciprocating mass.

Definitely not the end of the world but just wanted to clarify that there are material downsides to deleting the balance shaft function. Let us know how it goes though! Most of the guys who have done it have done it in the process of a larger build and really can’t offer back to back type of impressions because they’d had their car non-driveable for months or years so they couldn’t really offer a back to back comparison of the NVH increase from balance shaft delete.

There are tons of people that have done it on the FB groups I'm in. Everyone ive talked to said there has been no noticable difference. Are you talking from experience of doing it before, or just what you think will be the outcome?? And what would your solution be, in your opinion? I'm mean, from your comments up above, you never even heard of the freewheel before?? Ive been following people doing it for over a year. Its very popular in UK and other countries over the pond from me.

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[Charles.waite]

I used to own a b6 1.8t and the b7 was my wife’s car. The b6 was running as perfect as one could hope and it was noticeably rougher than the b7 at idle and cruising (though cruising was barely noticeable). It’s not “no difference at all”, not by a long shot. Whether you care or not is what matters.

And the only real difference between the 1.8t and 2.0t that would affect this is the balance shafts, the 1.8t has none.

Again it’s absolutely not the end of the world, however in my opinion it’s not worth it to delete them. Plenty of others would disagree, and that’s totally cool. Some people genuinely don’t care about NVH, I sorta do.

What would my solution be? To what? Pumps fail because of many reasons, the sprocket shearing off is not a root cause, it’s a cascade effect of another failure.

If your balance shafts are failing but you don’t want to splash out a million dollars on a new pump (very understandable) then the freewheel is a great idea. I plan on installing some stuffer drivetrain mounts so that’s going to amplify the vibrations so having the balance shafts should keep that mostly in check.

[Jayz691]

I used to own a b6 1.8t and the b7 was my wife’s car. The b6 was running as perfect as one could hope and it was noticeably rougher than the b7 at idle and cruising (though cruising was barely noticeable). It’s not “no difference at all”, not by a long shot. Whether you care or not is what matters.

And the only real difference between the 1.8t and 2.0t that would affect this is the balance shafts, the 1.8t has none.

Again it’s absolutely not the end of the world, however in my opinion it’s not worth it to delete them. Plenty of others would disagree, and that’s totally cool. Some people genuinely don’t care about NVH, I sorta do.

What would my solution be? To what? Pumps fail because of many reasons, the sprocket shearing off is not a root cause, it’s a cascade effect of another failure.

If your balance shafts are failing but you don’t want to splash out a million dollars on a new pump (very understandable) then the freewheel is a great idea. I plan on installing some stuffer drivetrain mounts so that’s going to amplify the vibrations so having the balance shafts should keep that mostly in check.

So your just comparing it to how a 1.8t feels?? That don't sound very scientific. I made a post on tfsi tuning group on FB. Quite a few people have done the freewheel on there. Some say no difference. 1 or 2 said minimal, if any. So seems like a good way ta go. Another guy on my b7 group I chat with a lot, just got his in. So maybe I'll wait till je installs it, ta see what his results are. Wouldnt be a bad idea to get a fluiddamper, if they weren't so damm expensive..maybe I'll put one on the list.

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[Jayz691]

That being said if anyone wants to do the VIS balance shaft delete I’ll do 160 shipped in the U.S. just paid 230$ for it literally last week


Big Turbo B7
MK1 TT 225 Roadster

Are you still considering selling the VIS freewheel? I'm about to order the Wasa one, $150/ delivered. But if you are selling your, I'll give you my money instead. Lmk.

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[Charles.waite]

So your just comparing it to how a 1.8t feels?? That don't sound very scientific. I made a post on tfsi tuning group on FB. Quite a few people have done the freewheel on there. Some say no difference. 1 or 2 said minimal, if any. So seems like a good way ta go. Another guy on my b7 group I chat with a lot, just got his in. So maybe I'll wait till je installs it, ta see what his results are. Wouldnt be a bad idea to get a fluiddamper, if they weren't so damm expensive..maybe I'll put one on the list.

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They’re basically the same engine, so yea it’s fairly scientific. I would often drive my cars back to back. The 2.0t was so smooth compared to my 1.8t I’d often have to double check the cluster to make sure the engine was actually running. The 1.8t and the b7 2.0t are the same base engine but the 2.0t has direct injection, fancier timing adjusters, larger pistons, and balance shafts built into the oil pump. otherwise they’re INCREDIBLY similar.

I’m not trying to convince you one way or another. There WILL be more vibration. VAG made plenty of dumb decisions with our engines but balance shafts DO make a difference or else they wouldn’t have developed a balance shaft system for ours and continued to refine and include it in all modern 2.0t engines. As I said before, whether or not that difference matters to you is another story. I like how smooth it runs and I’m not willing to go back to the 1.8t diesel feeling.

Whether you care or not is totally up to you. Trust me I’m not taking a shit on the idea. For really modified engines it probably makes sense as the balance shafts can be a failure point you might want to eliminate. Or on the track all the g-forces could wreck the shafts really quickly too if you don’t have a really good oil baffle system. Or he’ll, maybe, like you, you just want to eliminate common failure points. They’re all totally legitimate reasons.

[i3oricua]

I have deleted my shafts...hehe...and I have a fluidampr and stiffer motor mounts and a lighter flywheel clutch combo and the steel subframe bushing things....everything vibrates. Everything. Honestly though, it's definitely not like stock but I can't tell if the subframe bushings are the reason I get more vibrations or something else. It's not bad at all, the exhaust drone is more annoying than the vibrations.

[BSTD_B7]

I have deleted my shafts...hehe...and I have a fluidampr and stiffer motor mounts and a lighter flywheel clutch combo and the steel subframe bushing things....everything vibrates. Everything. Honestly though, it's definitely not like stock but I can't tell if the subframe bushings are the reason I get more vibrations or something else. It's not bad at all, the exhaust drone is more annoying than the vibrations.

I’ll be in the same boat, balance shaft delete, billet crank pulley, BFI stage 2 motor & snub mount, 034 track density tranny mount, 034 rear diff subframe inserts, and apikol green monster diff carrier, thing is going to be on rails

Edit:also a southbend stage 3 clutch & lightweight flywheel


Big Turbo B7
MK1 TT 225 Roadster

[Charles.waite]

You’re also going to break your spine.

Trust me, I totally get wanting to lock down the chasis and drivetrain, but at a certain point to sorta...ruin the car. I think there’s a sweet spot where you don’t ruin the driving experience by making it hard as a rock but things still feel fairly locked down and direct.

[BSTD_B7]

You’re also going to break your spine.

Trust me, I totally get wanting to lock down the chasis and drivetrain, but at a certain point to sorta...ruin the car. I think there’s a sweet spot where you don’t ruin the driving experience by making it hard as a rock but things still feel fairly locked down and direct.

Yeah I’m willing to sacrifice comfort, this car is only for summers, and I plan to drag it when I get tuning and everything squared away, don’t get me wrong I intend to drive the shit out of it but I don’t mind a rough ride, there’s something about knowing what you’re behind the wheel of that makes it exciting enough to just not care about being comfortable, the long drives to car shows will most definitely suck though


Big Turbo B7
MK1 TT 225 Roadster

[Charles.waite]

Yeah I’m willing to sacrifice comfort, this car is only for summers, and I plan to drag it when I get tuning and everything squared away, don’t get me wrong I intend to drive the shit out of it but I don’t mind a rough ride, there’s something about knowing what you’re behind the wheel of that makes it exciting enough to just not care about being comfortable, the long drives to car shows will most definitely suck though


Big Turbo B7
MK1 TT 225 Roadster

Well in that case more power to you. Sounds like you’re going to be making the compromise worthwhile. 99% of my driving is too and from work and around the city in stop and go, on shitty roads. My car is loud and bumpy enough as it is, not sure I’d be able to handle much more. I just plan on 034 street engine/trans mounts, powerflex purple rear diff, and possibly some poly control arm bushings to tighten up the steering feel.

Though admittedly I really do feel the pull towards poly everything, haha. I just have a gut feeling that I would regret it eventually.

[BSTD_B7]

Well in that case more power to you. Sounds like you’re going to be making the compromise worthwhile. 99% of my driving is too and from work and around the city in stop and go, on shitty roads. My car is loud and bumpy enough as it is, not sure I’d be able to handle much more. I just plan on 034 street engine/trans mounts, powerflex purple rear diff, and possibly some poly control arm bushings to tighten up the steering feel.

Though admittedly I really do feel the pull towards poly everything, haha. I just have a gut feeling that I would regret it eventually.

I’ll let you know how awful it is when I finally get my manifold and surge tank in, and get everything installed lol


Big Turbo B7
MK1 TT 225 Roadster

[canadianA4B7]

Yeah I’m willing to sacrifice comfort, this car is only for summers, and I plan to drag it when I get tuning and everything squared away, don’t get me wrong I intend to drive the shit out of it but I don’t mind a rough ride, there’s something about knowing what you’re behind the wheel of that makes it exciting enough to just not care about being comfortable, the long drives to car shows will most definitely suck though
Big Turbo B7
MK1 TT 225 Roadster

Big items to address balance the rotating assembly, it’s not close at all when you buy them new from IE, fluidampr, raise idle above VCDS max of 840. These few things with 1.8 oil pump, solid aluminum motor mounts, and race mounts along the entire driveline is perfectly comfy sitting in aluminum race seat. The 1.8 2003 engine was worse NVH. 100% no issues if you cover the list above.

[Jayz691]

Big items to address balance the rotating assembly, it’s not close at all when you buy them new from IE, fluidampr, raise idle above VCDS max of 840. These few things with 1.8 oil pump, solid aluminum motor mounts, and race mounts along the entire driveline is perfectly comfy sitting in aluminum race seat. The 1.8 2003 engine was worse NVH. 100% no issues if you cover the list above.

How do you raise the idle above the max on vcds? I changed it, but only idles as high as 800.

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[canadianA4B7]

How do you raise the idle above the max on vcds? I changed it, but only idles as high as 800.

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Your tuner will need to adjust.

[Jayz691]

Your tuner will need to adjust.

Ahh, ok. Thanx.

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[vvenom800tt]

Get the black rear diff.

I have black as well as the ecs inserts. No real change in vibration

Well in that case more power to you. Sounds like you’re going to be making the compromise worthwhile. 99% of my driving is too and from work and around the city in stop and go, on shitty roads. My car is loud and bumpy enough as it is, not sure I’d be able to handle much more. I just plan on 034 street engine/trans mounts, powerflex purple rear diff, and possibly some poly control arm bushings to tighten up the steering feel.

Though admittedly I really do feel the pull towards poly everything, haha. I just have a gut feeling that I would regret it eventually.

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[vvenom800tt]

I also have black powerflex upper control arm bushings and they firm things up nicely without ruining the ride.

Do it!

Well in that case more power to you. Sounds like you’re going to be making the compromise worthwhile. 99% of my driving is too and from work and around the city in stop and go, on shitty roads. My car is loud and bumpy enough as it is, not sure I’d be able to handle much more. I just plan on 034 street engine/trans mounts, powerflex purple rear diff, and possibly some poly control arm bushings to tighten up the steering feel.

Though admittedly I really do feel the pull towards poly everything, haha. I just have a gut feeling that I would regret it eventually.

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[Charles.waite]

Funny you mention all those, I have a Powerflex purple rear diff and PSB front upper poly bushings. In addition to some 034 engine and tranny mounts. The rear diff might get installed this spring, but suspension stuff is likely a long way out sadly.

I’ve been tempted by those rear diff carrier inserts though. I should probably pick some up for when I replace my rear carrier. Was also thinking about poly bushings for where the shock mounts to the lower straight are as well. I’ve seen poly replacements for those, but suspect that particular one will transmit a ton of vibration into the chassis...

[vvenom800tt]

Yeah i need to replace my lower arms so im thinking about swapping out to all poly bushings once i do it. For the chassis side as well as the shock mount eyelet on the arm.

Powerflex doesnt make the shock one but theres another company that does. I believe ecs carries them.

The inserts helped im sure, but its hard to really tell since i had the black diff bushing installed already.

They we're a pain to get in, make you have a long pry bar and lots of lube/grease for it.

Funny you mention all those, I have a Powerflex purple rear diff and PSB front upper poly bushings. In addition to some 034 engine and tranny mounts. The rear diff might get installed this spring, but suspension stuff is likely a long way out sadly.

I’ve been tempted by those rear diff carrier inserts though. I should probably pick some up for when I replace my rear carrier. Was also thinking about poly bushings for where the shock mounts to the lower straight are as well. I’ve seen poly replacements for those, but suspect that particular one will transmit a ton of vibration into the chassis...

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[vvenom800tt]

Looks like ecs now has 90A durometer lower control arm bushings for our car!

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...210ecs01-03kt/

Superpro makes the bushing for where the suspension fork mounts.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-superpro.../spf3590k~spr/

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[vvenom800tt]

I just ordered the ecs kit since its on sale and its wayyyyy cheaper than ordering both the inner kits from powerflex.

$99 to my door for all 4 inner bushings. 90A durometer.

The powerflex black are 95A, which i want but im not gonna pay over double for another 5A shore.

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