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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings Kadab's Avatar
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    034Motorsport StreetSport Engine/Transmission Mount

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    Has anyone tried the new 034Motorsport StreetSport Engine/Transmission Mounts yet?
    They're similar to the track mounts but use softer rubber.
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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings Jeff_Jeske's Avatar
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    Why would you need new engine and transmission mounts on the TTRS? We don't suffer from the same issues that the RS3 platform has.

    I would recommend the 034 upper and lower mounts or the new ECS lower combined with the 034 upper.

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings Kadab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske View Post
    Why would you need new engine and transmission mounts on the TTRS? We don't suffer from the same issues that the RS3 platform has.

    I would recommend the 034 upper and lower mounts or the new ECS lower combined with the 034 upper.
    Because the engine flops around like a wild turkey - same engine and mounts as an RS3. I just installed the ECE Dogbone kit, but haven't tried it yet. I might install the engine mounts if it still moves around a lot...
    2018 Ara Blue TT RS // Unitronic Stg 2 E85 ECU, Stg 2 TCU // APR 4" Intake // APR FMIC // IE Downpipe
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings Jeff_Jeske's Avatar
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    Some movement is good. No movement equals broken parts. Be careful!!!

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings Thumper3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kadab View Post
    Because the engine flops around like a wild turkey - same engine and mounts as an RS3. I just installed the ECE Dogbone kit, but haven't tried it yet. I might install the engine mounts if it still moves around a lot...
    The engine is causing the movement, firming up the transmission mount without doing the engine leads to a damaged trans mount. Address the problem (engine movement), not the symptom (transmission bolted to the engine moving with the engine).

    Not sure about "damaging" parts, I know in extreme power cases like 1000+ horsepower drag cars using solid mounts can twist a frame rail at launch but just going from sloppy rubber to poly is not that extreme.
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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings Jeff_Jeske's Avatar
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    When I mention broken parts, I usually mean that parts that the mounts bolt to. I've been in the modded car game for about 30 years now and I've seen lots of people upgrade mounts in various ways.

    In the short term these changes sometimes made a positive impact on drag times. In the long term they sometimes created issues with vibrating parts loose or fatiguing metal causing it to crack. There are many variables that come into play from tires, torque, weight and frequency of abuse but fully replacing mounts with items that produce enough NVH to feel in the car will likely also have an alternative side effect. It might not be immediate but in a year or two I wouldn't be surprised to see trans cases cracking. Those forces and that leverage is going "somewhere else". Vendors certainly aren't going to be warning you about this stuff but buyer beware.

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings Kadab's Avatar
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    When accelerating with a mount that is too soft, it allows the engine to move quickly until it reaches the limit the mount can move. At this point, a large force is imparted on everything connecting to the mount, which can break things. If using a stiffer mount, the engine's force is contained and doesn't allow it to "wind up" and release a lot of energy. An analogy is like swinging a hammer in air vs water; swinging a hammer in air then hitting something is like a soft mount which allows the engine to move easily until it hits the stop. Swinging a hammer in water is like a stiffer mount, which absorbs the energy and prevents too much kinetic energy being created. An engine jumping and jerking around too much is not going to perform well, and will probably break something. It's better to have mounts that absorb this excess energy smoothly.
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings Jeff_Jeske's Avatar
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    Take your big swinging hammer and do whatever you want with it ha ha. I kid I kid. All I’m saying is be smart about your modifications. Are you 100% sure what is happening? Do you know what is the root cause of your concern? For example are your parts failing or has your tune exceeded the safe limits of you drivetrain? Is your approach the best way to resolve the known issue? Has anyone else done this before and what were their results? Just be smart about it. If nothing else search solid mounts and read the results from other platforms. Be informed.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings Kadab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske View Post
    Take your big swinging hammer and do whatever you want with it ha ha. I kid I kid. All I’m saying is be smart about your modifications. Are you 100% sure what is happening? Do you know what is the root cause of your concern? For example are your parts failing or has your tune exceeded the safe limits of you drivetrain? Is your approach the best way to resolve the known issue? Has anyone else done this before and what were their results? Just be smart about it. If nothing else search solid mounts and read the results from other platforms. Be informed.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    The cause is more power than stock along with soft mounts. The new mount is not solid; it has some give to it when a pull on it with my hand. So it is soft, just not as soft as the original. If it were a solid mount, then I agree it could damage something.
    2018 Ara Blue TT RS // Unitronic Stg 2 E85 ECU, Stg 2 TCU // APR 4" Intake // APR FMIC // IE Downpipe
    ECE Dogbone // Front Subframe Locking Collar Kit // Sprint Booster // 350mm rear rotors // BFI engine mounts

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