Valve Cover leak... Snapped a screw!

[Cyrik]

Soooooo lemme just start out by saying I totally screwed this up (no pun intended).

I've been chasing down my valve cover leaks over the past few weeks... New valve cover (OEM) purchased just over a year ago now. Every time I see a rubber grommet around a screw begin to get coated with oil, I'll tighten it just a tad to see if it'll stop the leak.

After work I finally had it and went straight for re-seating the valve cover... AGAIN (3rd time now). I always torque to 10 NM and do the bolt pattern correctly, however I still have these leaks pop up after a couple months.

The second I started tightening screw #12 (bottom left corner next to timing cover) it just snapped. Me being pissed off like no other I said screw it and dabbed the end of the broken bolt with super glue and popped it in. Tapping out this screw will be VERY challenging since the screws are so small and our cars are aluminum heads... So I wanted to ask you guys a couple things: 1, what would you do to get the end of the screw out? The break is flush with the head. And 2, do you think the super glue will even hold or I might not even need the screw at all? My assumption is it's gonna start leaking within the next few days. (May I also add this screw has never been coated in oil before, no extra tightening to stop a leak)


I swear I have the WORST luck with this car it's actually hilarious 😂 If there's anything good about this at all it's that my cam lobes look good 👍

[EvolutionArmory]

Lets address why the 1 year old valve cover is leaking. You probably need a new PCV valve.

Since the break is flush with the head you’ll probably have to drill out the screw. You can try to drill a small hole and hope you don’t damage the threads and use a screw extractor to remove the rest or drill the screw out and helicoil the hole.

[bwdysart]

Get some left handed drill bits. There’s a chance (albeit not a huge chance) that the screw will spin out while you’re drilling it.

Get some screw extractors too. Drill a hole small enough to not damage the threads on the head with the reverse direction bits, and if it doesn’t come out like that, stick the extractor in and try some more. They look like this
IMG_2582.JPG

Also watch a few YouTube videos on screw extraction first, get the best practices from some people with more experience. Also make sure to approach this calmly, we’ve all made something worse by working frustrated


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[griga]

Listen to EA about the PCV.

I did the same thing as you but snapped 2 of the screws by accident but I’ve been leak free. Mine were the ones in the middle though so maybe it’s just not noticeable. I understand that worst luck feeling haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Charles.waite]

Yea a new VCG shouldn't be leaking constantly. I replaced mine 6 years ago and its still bone dry. Because my PCV stuff was replaced at the same time and is working properly.

[Cyrik]

I replaced my PCV a̶t̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶s̶a̶m̶e̶ ̶t̶i̶m̶e̶ a few months after I replaced my valve cover..... That's why I haven't thought about the PCV system being the problem. I'm pretty sure my turbo breather tube is busted though, I noticed quite a bit of grime around the outside and oil lined on the inside of the tube. IIRC there's a valve inside that tube correct? Should I replace that first?

Get some left handed drill bits. There’s a chance (albeit not a huge chance) that the screw will spin out while you’re drilling it.

Get some screw extractors too. Drill a hole small enough to not damage the threads on the head with the reverse direction bits, and if it doesn’t come out like that, stick the extractor in and try some more. They look like this
IMG_2582.JPG

Also watch a few YouTube videos on screw extraction first, get the best practices from some people with more experience. Also make sure to approach this calmly, we’ve all made something worse by working frustrated

Thanks, I'll look into this :)

Yea a new VCG shouldn't be leaking constantly. I replaced mine 6 years ago and its still bone dry. Because my PCV stuff was replaced at the same time and is working properly.

Is there some sort of special way to get the gasket to seat properly? I've never been able to get mine in leak-free. May I also add that I noticed a tiny bit of oil around the rim of each spark plug when I popped out my coil packs. I haven't worried about it too much since my car isn't misfiring.

It's incredibly frustrating having to deal with this shit constantly especially for a new $400 plastic fucking valve cover, sorry for my french.

[Cyrik]

Here's a pic with the Valve Cover off, (Not the best pic sorry) It's a bit hard to see but in the lower-left there's a bit of grime built up right below the where the gasket sits

[EvolutionArmory]

Wether it’s the valve on the valve cover or the valve in the breather tube if your car has one, something is probably causing overpressure which is forcing oil out of the screw holes.

My car had oil coming out of the oil cap and screw holes so I replaced my VCG and PCV and it’s bone dry 2 years later.

Unless your head is warped, the gasket failed or the valve cover is warped, properly torqued bolts shouldn’t be leaking oil. Usually it’s a PCV issue.

[EvolutionArmory]

And since you have an 07 you should change the breather tube. Maybe not the valve since you already did before.

I think they should be replaced as a pair though.

[Charles.waite]

What are the part numbers of your PCV and the turbo breather? Want to make sure you have the right parts.

[Cyrik]

Found the receipt, purchased directly from Audi on March 27, 2019:

06F-103-235-A
06F-129-101-P

Top one is the breather tube connecting from the oil filter housing assembly to the PCV (mine was old and starting to crack) and the other is the PCV itself. I haven't replaced the turbo breather tube yet.

[Cyrik]

Also found the Valve cover receipt, purchased August 4, 2018: 06D-103-469-N

[Cyrik]

Wether it’s the valve on the valve cover or the valve in the breather tube if your car has one, something is probably causing overpressure which is forcing oil out of the screw holes.

My car had oil coming out of the oil cap and screw holes so I replaced my VCG and PCV and it’s bone dry 2 years later.

Unless your head is warped, the gasket failed or the valve cover is warped, properly torqued bolts shouldn’t be leaking oil. Usually it’s a PCV issue.

Definitely leaning towards that valve in the breather tube as I didn't replace it. Makes a lot of sense too thank you :) Pretty confident nothings warped since my head only has 40k on it lol. Think it's worth buying a new gasket too? they're like $12 iirc.

[EvolutionArmory]

Absolutely replace the valve cover gasket every time the valve cover comes off and the screws are torqued down.

[Cyrik]

Absolutely replace the valve cover gasket every time the valve cover comes off and the screws are torqued down.

Great! Guess I'm all set then. I'll buy a new breather tube and VC gasket and report back in the next week or so. It snowed and it's cold now lol. For now the car still runs and drives I just can't wait to get this headache out of my life now 🤣

I'm still a tad confused though, the last 6 of my vin is 086714, that means I have to buy this one? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...be/06d103213g/


...or is it this one? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...be/06d103215a/

[EvolutionArmory]

If you have an 07, you need a PCV valve that ends with a P and you need the breather tube with the check valve in it.

The split is easiest to go by build date.

Before 12/05 R valve and blank tube

After 12/05 P valve and tube with a check valve.

The breather tube you have is key in figuring out what valve you need. You can’t mix them up because you’ll either have 2 check valves in the system or none.

[Cyrik]

If you have an 07, you need a PCV valve that ends with a P and you need the breather tube with the check valve in it.

The split is easiest to go by build date.

Before 12/05 R valve and blank tube

After 12/05 P valve and tube with a check valve.

The breather tube you have is key in figuring out what valve you need. You can’t mix them up because you’ll either have 2 check valves in the system or none.

At least I bought the right PCV, thanks for the clarification. Found the late vin breather tube on JHM this time, I'll throw it in as soon as I can. Thanks!

[Charles.waite]

Absolutely replace the valve cover gasket every time the valve cover comes off and the screws are torqued down.

On a 2.0t? Really? I could see that for a 1.8t because the gasket was hard rubber and would usually tear but our gaskets are much softer and I wouldn’t hesitate reusing it until it’s maybe 4 years old. Then I’d replace it.

[Charles.waite]

At least I bought the right PCV, thanks for the clarification. Found the late vin breather tube on JHM this time, I'll throw it in as soon as I can. Thanks!

Yea as an 07 you’re a late vin.

You can use either old or new, but the key is you need to pair the correct ones. Old PCV and old breather is fine but only PCV and new breather might cause issues.

[EvolutionArmory]

On a 2.0t? Really? I could see that for a 1.8t because the gasket was hard rubber and would usually tear but our gaskets are much softer and I wouldn’t hesitate reusing it until it’s maybe 4 years old. Then I’d replace it.

The only time I’d use a gasket that was torqued down again is if it was torqued down and removed the same day like you made a mistake or something and caught it and had to go back in.

I’m like that though. Saving a few bucks isn’t worth it to me.

[Theiceman]

You guys know how much work ive done on my car.
Woukd you believe I had had that cover off about 5 times and it still doesnt leak!???.
One small bolt hole which I sealed

Now I'm just curious how long it will last.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

[EvolutionArmory]

Those of you who would reuse this gasket, did you install a new gasket, torque it to spec and then torque it down again multiple times over a years time thus over torquing it enough to actually snap a bolt like our OP did?

It’s 12 bucks and is leaking now, most likely due to over pressure from the PCV. Why would you use it again? 🤣🤣

Some of you guys must like doing a job twice? Or maybe 12 bucks means the difference between making rent or not? If that’s the case then I’m sorry.

[Theiceman]

I never torque down valve cover bolts that are compressing a rubber gasket or you will get that happened to OP.
Just snug em down and you are good to go. If it leaks get another gasket. Tightening it more will only lead to bad things.
For some of us every single part has to be shipped in.
Odd thing is I have a brand new spare. Had it 3 years. So now it's really just more if an experiment.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

[EvolutionArmory]

Well I definitely don’t have that kind of time. Not replacing a 12 dollar gasket costs me 100’s of dollars if I have to take another day to fix it. I try to fix things right the first time. I like working on my car as much as the next guy but only for fun stuff.

He really shouldn’t reuse that gasket in particular. Think about what it takes to break a bolt that is only torqued down to 7 foot pounds or 10nm. He must have torqued that bolt all the way down to the bottom of the bolt hole. The bolt had no where else to go so it snapped due to being bottomed out. That must have compressed the gasket a few times smaller than it should be over the course of the year he did that.

Replace gaskets if you remove the part and you don’t cause yourself more grief than is necessary. 😉

[Theiceman]

For sure he did it all wrong.
For me now working on cars is just sort of a fun hobby...
In fact I'm going to go have a look and see if its leaking

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

[Charles.waite]

Those of you who would reuse this gasket, did you install a new gasket, torque it to spec and then torque it down again multiple times over a years time thus over torquing it enough to actually snap a bolt like our OP did?

It’s 12 bucks and is leaking now, most likely due to over pressure from the PCV. Why would you use it again?

Some of you guys must like doing a job twice? Or maybe 12 bucks means the difference between making rent or not? If that’s the case then I’m sorry.

No. All I said was I’d reuse it if it wasn’t leaking.

Some of us know how to not over torque something and smash/warp a gasket.

There are plenty of things i pony up and replace because it’s not worth redoing a job. However things like a valve cover gasket are easy to redo so it’s really not the end of the world.

Our gaskets are absolutely reusable if you don’t ruin it first time around or it’s not so old (or gone through so many heat cycles) that it loses its rubberiness. It’s not like the hard plastic 1.8t gaskets that you had to replace pretty much every time you removed the valve cover because they’d never seal right after the first torque down.

[Theiceman]

besides all this .. i dont think it is his valve cover gasket that is leaking based on those pics. it looks to be one of the hoses... replace them both, put the correct clamps on, clean , then make sure your cam girdle isnt leaking.

[Charles.waite]

Just noticed this but is this hose in you picture split all the way across the top:

[Silveravant]

When I replaced my Valve cover gasket (was leaking) the old one was like hard, brittle plastic, not soft like the new one. There is no way you could reuse the old one.

The way the head cover bolts work is the metal part on the bolt (don't know what it's called) is tight against the head and the rubber grommet on the bolt provides the clamping force.

[Theiceman]

Just noticed this but is this hose in you picture split all the way across the top:

yup i saw that too

[Charles.waite]

When I replaced my Valve cover gasket (was leaking) the old one was like hard, brittle plastic, not soft like the new one. There is no way you could reuse the old one.

The way the head cover bolts work is the metal part on the bolt (don't know what it's called) is tight against the head and the rubber grommet on the bolt provides the clamping force.

Probably because it was 10 years old. I never said reuse old ones like that. Simply that if you install a new gasket and then a month later you need to remove the valve cover for some reason, you don’t need to replace the gasket. Doesn’t matter how cheap the part is, you don’t need to replace it if it’s still pliable enough to seal well. I’d say anything over 3 years old is suspect and anything after 5 years is a replace without a second thought. But saying every time you remove the VC you need to replace the gasket was the advice I was arguing against.

[Silveravant]

Oh, I never said that the gasket has to be replaced every time. Only when it turns from "rubber" to hard brittle plastic.

The most important thing is how the head cover bolts work. The bolts bottom out, the rubber grommet provides the clamping force.

[Charles.waite]

Oh, I never said that the gasket has to be replaced every time. Only when it turns from "rubber" to hard brittle plastic.

The most important thing is how the head cover bolts work. The bolts bottom out, the rubber grommet provides the clamping force.

Yea you didn’t. Evolution Armory did.

But yea knowing how the bolts actually work is helpful in knowing how to install the valve cover properly, good info.

[EvolutionArmory]

Think about what you just said for a minute. You’re saying VAG designed metal bolts so they would bottom out in an aluminum head at 10nm? So you’re saying there’s no headroom in that bolt hole after its torqued down? Once it’s torqued down the bolt body is bottomed out in the hole?

I’m not saying you’re wrong. I’m just saying I doubt that is true. I mean, are we going to argue about how bolts stay tight now?

I’m actually surprised the OP didn’t strip the threads rather than the bolt breaking.

[Theiceman]

Think about what you just said for a minute. You’re saying VAG designed metal bolts so they would bottom out in an aluminum head at 10nm? So you’re saying there’s no headroom in that bolt hole after its torqued down? Once it’s torqued down the bolt body is bottomed out in the hole?

I’m not saying you’re wrong. I’m just saying I doubt that is true. I mean, are we going to argue about how bolts stay tight now?

I’m actually surprised the OP didn’t strip the threads rather than the bolt breaking.

actually my 944S valve cover was designed exactly that way ... they were a " bottom out bolt" i know because in my youth i broke one EXACTLY the same way .. had to have the Porsche shop remove it ( now THAT was an expensive lesson) . the torque is just to stop the bolt backing out and provides no real clamping force on the cover once it stops I( its a fixed distance so there is clamping force obviously but is not determined by bolt torque ) . the gasket was similar in design to the B7 with a complete gasket and 16 rubber" donuts" for the bolt. The guy at the shop told me they dont torque them at all and likely how i broke it , they just tighten and stop. if it leaks its because of the gasket, not because its not tight enough , so i do see where Silver is coming from.


i'm not saying its exactly the same in the B7 , i am just saying i understand what he is trying to say.

[texadelphia]

actually my 944S valve cover was designed exactly that way ... they were a " bottom out bolt" i know because in my youth i broke one EXACTLY the same way .. had to have the Porsche shop remove it ( now THAT was an expensive lesson) . the torque is just to stop the bolt backing out and provides no real clamping force on the cover once it stops I( its a fixed distance so there is clamping force obviously but is not determined by bolt torque ) . the gasket was similar in design to the B7 with a complete gasket and 16 rubber" donuts" for the bolt. The guy at the shop told me they dont torque them at all and likely how i broke it , they just tighten and stop. if it leaks its because of the gasket, not because its not tight enough , so i do see where Silver is coming from.


i'm not saying its exactly the same in the B7 , i am just saying i understand what he is trying to say.

Ah, so it doesn't bottom out in the hole, it has a secondary "head" that contacts the surface of the cylinder head. That makes more sense from a bolt tension standpoint. So no matter how much you torque down that bolt it doesn't increase the clamping force in the gasket at all.

[EvolutionArmory]

These bolts don’t “bottom out”. They are held in by thread tension set by their listed torque spec and the help of the rubber grommets.

These valve cover bolts have a factory torque spec....

And that Porsche bolt isn’t “bottoming out”. It’s being stopped by the shoulder that is clearly visible at the bottom of it.



Is the fact that bolts are held in place by the tension exerted on the threads up for debate now? Is that the world we live in now? What I find funny is that my recommendation of replacing a gasket every time it’s removed is questionable but bolts that “bottom out” is accepted hook, line and sinker.

If your bolt hits the bottom of the bolt hole and you keep torquing it down what happens? The bolt which hits the bottom will either self tap, hit the bottom and strip the threads or the bolt will break. Does this make sense?

[Charles.waite]

Well because saying point blank replace the gasket every time is questionable advice. Not sure why your still arguing it.

The bolts part doesn’t make sense but I was tired and wasn’t really thinking about it critically. They don’t bottom out and I’m quite sure it doesn’t operate the same as a 1980s Porsche. But yea as you said there is 100% a torque spec for the bolts. I used it and have had zero leaks.

[texadelphia]

They don’t bottom out and I’m quite sure it doesn’t operate the same as a 1980s Porsche.

Seems like they work very similarly to the Porsche bolt pictured above. The center "hourglass" section of that bolt is just changed to a collar that fits over the bolt. So the bolt tension is essentially squeezing the collar but not the gasket itself. The gasket compression is set by the collar height, not the bolt tension, much the same way it is set by the shape of the Porsche bolt. Unless I'm looking at this wrong.

[Theiceman]

Seems like they work very similarly to the Porsche bolt pictured above. The center "hourglass" section of that bolt is just changed to a collar that fits over the bolt. So the bolt tension is essentially squeezing the collar but not the gasket itself. The gasket compression is set by the collar height, not the bolt tension, much the same way it is set by the shape of the Porsche bolt. Unless I'm looking at this wrong.

yes .. exactly .. when i say bottom out i mean the bottom of the bolt has a shoulder that hits the head surface ... im not into splitting hairs .. when that bottoms out the pressure on the gasket is set by the distances on the bolt NOT the torque on the bolt.