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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings dubvag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AA 954 View Post
    P2015 and P2020 is a code that comes up for each of the banks (1 & 2) when the values measured by each potentiometer are out of range, this will automatically come accompanied by an EPC code which in turn will limit your revs to ~7k

    Potential Reasons for this:

    - Needs a Carbon Clean, flap arms get stuck and do not open or close enough, basically at idle flaps in the IM will stay close until around 4k where they will open, at close or open they need to read within a range or the ecu will throw a code.

    - Vacuum bypass/sensor at the front of the IM needs changing, there should be a write up somewhere or reach out to either Jonan or Pyromatic as they have changed this without removing their IM’s, PITA scale 5-6 and you need small hands

    - Bad potentiometer, one you can change without removing the Intake Manifold, if its the other you will need to remove it as I recall.

    - Bad actuator vacuum arms, these are at the front and underneath the manifold, hopefully its not the one that controls the right bank as they are expensive to change

    - Bad linkage arm, have someone accelerate your car to above 4k and see if these move evenly, these plastic arms wear over time and break although if it was broken, I would expect you to get a code immediately after hitting 4k revs the first time.

    - Vacuum leak on the hose that connects to the vacuum actuator arm bank 2

    - Think I read somewhere that a bad PCV can influence on this too, no idea...

    My personal experience when I had these codes is that it got fixed after performing a Carbon Clean, installing new potentiometers and changed that front IM valve bypass/sensor.
    Thanks AA 954, this is a lot of great information! I know if it is a bad potentiometer mine is the one that requires the manifold to be removed. If that's the case, is it worth changing both at the same time?

    The car had a carbon cleaning about 10,000 miles ago, so hopefully that's not already needed again.

    I'll have to look into all this more this weekend and hopefully am able to narrow it down a little more. I'll try to keep you posted!

    Sent from my PH-1 using Audizine mobile app

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings AA 954's Avatar
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    Jan 17 2018
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    07a & 07b RS4, 2008 R32, 2016 Golf R, 2020 GT350 & 2022 Tiguan SEL R-Line
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubvag View Post
    Thanks AA 954, this is a lot of great information! I know if it is a bad potentiometer mine is the one that requires the manifold to be removed. If that's the case, is it worth changing both at the same time?

    The car had a carbon cleaning about 10,000 miles ago, so hopefully that's not already needed again.

    I'll have to look into all this more this weekend and hopefully am able to narrow it down a little more. I'll try to keep you posted!

    Sent from my PH-1 using Audizine mobile app
    If you need to take the mani off again then yes change both together with the check valve thats at the bottom of the mani connected to the vacuum lines, there is also an N80 valve in the area where the valley pan is, change that too.

    Whats the mileage on the car? Depending on that you might want to consider injectors and PCV if you haven’t changed those.

    If you already had the CC done I would start by changing that front sensor before removing anything, you’ll need needle nose pliers and small hands lol. You take off that front engine cover and the braket that supports it so you can access that sensor, its a bit tight and there are some vacuum lines there that you need to be careful with. If that doesn’t help then you’ll need to evaluate taking the mani off

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings dubvag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AA 954 View Post
    If you need to take the mani off again then yes change both together with the check valve thats at the bottom of the mani connected to the vacuum lines, there is also an N80 valve in the area where the valley pan is, change that too.

    Whats the mileage on the car? Depending on that you might want to consider injectors and PCV if you haven’t changed those.

    If you already had the CC done I would start by changing that front sensor before removing anything, you’ll need needle nose pliers and small hands lol. You take off that front engine cover and the braket that supports it so you can access that sensor, its a bit tight and there are some vacuum lines there that you need to be careful with. If that doesn’t help then you’ll need to evaluate taking the mani off
    I just hit 94,000 miles this week. I'll have to look at the records, but I think the CC was done around 83k. I'm not sure if injectors were done at that time. If I do end up taking the manifold off, is there an easy way to visually inspect the injectors? I'd probably order them either way, but if they look ok maybe save them for the next CC?

    I'll try getting my hands on that front sensor to try right away. I'll see what I can do about the small hands, haha.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings AA 954's Avatar
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    07a & 07b RS4, 2008 R32, 2016 Golf R, 2020 GT350 & 2022 Tiguan SEL R-Line
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    Weston, FL

    EPC Issues

    Quote Originally Posted by dubvag View Post
    I just hit 94,000 miles this week. I'll have to look at the records, but I think the CC was done around 83k. I'm not sure if injectors were done at that time. If I do end up taking the manifold off, is there an easy way to visually inspect the injectors? I'd probably order them either way, but if they look ok maybe save them for the next CC?

    I'll try getting my hands on that front sensor to try right away. I'll see what I can do about the small hands, haha.
    Injectors are a hit or miss at these mileages but the best insurance in my opinion, good thing is they are relatively cheap on FCP or Rockauto in comparison to the dealer, the clips you’ll need to source from Ebay as they are very expensive from the dealer.

    I’m sure there is a way to test the injectors, supposedly if you turn the car off after its reached operating temperature and continue measuring the HPFP flow block the pressure should continue to rise indicating that there is no pressure loss from one of the injectors, no idea how to measure them individually in our cars so probably someone else can pitch in on that.

    Definately start with that sensor, for reference I’ve attached a picture so you know which one it is.

    IMG_2580.jpg

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings dubvag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AA 954 View Post
    Injectors are a hit or miss at these mileages but the best insurance in my opinion, good thing is they are relatively cheap on FCP or Rockauto in comparison to the dealer, the clips you’ll need to source from Ebay as they are very expensive from the dealer.

    I’m sure there is a way to test the injectors, supposedly if you turn the car off after its reached operating temperature and continue measuring the HPFP flow block the pressure should continue to rise indicating that there is no pressure loss from one of the injectors, no idea how to measure them individually in our cars so probably someone else can pitch in on that.

    Definately start with that sensor, for reference I’ve attached a picture so you know which one it is.

    IMG_2580.jpg
    Thanks!

    This is the sensor you're referring to correct?

    https://jhmotorsports.com/solenoid-f...or-b7-rs4.html

    You don't have a part number do you? I can't seem to find this sensor on many websites.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings AA 954's Avatar
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    Jan 17 2018
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    07a & 07b RS4, 2008 R32, 2016 Golf R, 2020 GT350 & 2022 Tiguan SEL R-Line
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    Weston, FL

    Quote Originally Posted by dubvag View Post
    Thanks!

    This is the sensor you're referring to correct?

    https://jhmotorsports.com/solenoid-f...or-b7-rs4.html

    You don't have a part number do you? I can't seem to find this sensor on many websites.
    Yes thats the part, go with this one:

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...lve-037906283c

    Pierburg is the OE Manufucturer, absolutely crazy that the OEM costs 70-80$ more just to carry the AUDI logo...

    Pic of my old part for reference


  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings dubvag's Avatar
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    2007AudiRS4__1974Datsun260Z
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    Quote Originally Posted by AA 954 View Post
    Yes thats the part, go with this one:

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...lve-037906283c

    Pierburg is the OE Manufucturer, absolutely crazy that the OEM costs 70-80$ more just to carry the AUDI logo...

    Pic of my old part for reference

    Thanks! I did see that one on FCP Euro too, but it says it's not compatible with the RS4. False positive?

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