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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Sep 12 2014
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    Question Aftermarket Amps (Fiber Optic to RCA Options)

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    So I'm looking to upgrade the sound system in my C6 but I want to retain the factory functionality(steering wheel controls, mmi screen, etc.). I also don't want to use a hi to low converter because the sound signal post amp is already altered quite a bit by the factory amp.

    Basically I need a device that will take the full range, fiber optic, digital sound signal and convert it to RCA outputs to use in the Amps.

    I found the mosbridge DA2 and DA3 which do exactly this but they are $600 and $750 respectively. I was wondering if anybody knew of a cheaper alternative to these devices?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    Aug 24 2014
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    277489
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    Newport Beach, CA

    I've only heard of the Mosbridge solution when I was doing research into this topic. But I'm sure others have some novel solutions outside of that path.
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 316K - 156mph 1/2 mile - Completely Refreshed/Built BEL Motor - SRM K24s w/ Custom Turbosmart wastegates - Ringer Racing 4+ - Etspec - Cinesnow WG/Oil Lines - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - FCP - Bosch Motorsports - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust - Tons of New OEM parts

    2009 C6.5 A6 3.0T Prestige - stock, daily driver

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Sep 12 2014
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    282173
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    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    I've only heard of the Mosbridge solution when I was doing research into this topic. But I'm sure others have some novel solutions outside of that path.
    i ended up just impulse buying the mobridge setup because I want to get this done as soon as possible. $750 is a shit ton just to get rca output from the fiber optic system but at least with the DA3 you get a Digital Sound Processor built in. The DA2 is only $150 less and has no DSP function so I figured it was a no brainer between the 2.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    Aug 24 2014
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    I would agree, that would be my choice too. What is the rest of your setup if you don't mind me asking? The factory Bose is not bad but I'm still toying with upgrading the sound system later this year.
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 316K - 156mph 1/2 mile - Completely Refreshed/Built BEL Motor - SRM K24s w/ Custom Turbosmart wastegates - Ringer Racing 4+ - Etspec - Cinesnow WG/Oil Lines - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - FCP - Bosch Motorsports - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust - Tons of New OEM parts

    2009 C6.5 A6 3.0T Prestige - stock, daily driver

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 12 2014
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    282173
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    Long Island

    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    I would agree, that would be my choice too. What is the rest of your setup if you don't mind me asking? The factory Bose is not bad but I'm still toying with upgrading the sound system later this year.
    I have a PDX-F6. 600w 4 channel amp, so 150w at each door. Infinity Kappa Speakers in each door. Fronts are going to be 3 way with a 3 inch midrange speaker. Rears will be 2 way with 6.5" woofer and 1" tweeter. Still deciding on subwoofer setup. I've ran 2 12" in the past but I've heard 4 10" tends to sound cleaner, I just don't know if I want to run the huge enclosure that I would need to, to properly run 4 10" subs. Either way I'd be running a 2400w kicker mono amp.

    Also planning on grabbing the RSNav display whenever its properly ready for 2G MMI.

    PS.

    I was planning on bypassing the stock system and just running an aftermarket head unit(mainly for carplay functionality) and independent RCA and speaker wires to all the amps and speakers. But considering the RSNav setup would let me retain all MMI controls and functionality I decided to go that route. Even though the DA3 makes this option much more expensive :/

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings cal3thousand's Avatar
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    Feb 19 2013
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    109847
    My Garage
    1994 Volvo 850 Turbo
    Location
    Los Angeles

    Cheapest solution is to solder directly to the analog outpin pins:

    http://audiforum.us/threads/aftermar...audi-a6.13513/
    Danton Black: 2009 Audi C6.5 A6 Sedan (Quattro, 3.0T, Prestige)
    I miss my Avant, longing for a 2011 3.0T
    Dead:
    Griselda, aka Grizzy: 2007 Audi C6 A6 Avant (Quattro, S-Line)

    Just some small cosmetic mods while getting to Stage 0

  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by cal3thousand View Post
    Cheapest solution is to solder directly to the analog outpin pins:

    http://audiforum.us/threads/aftermar...audi-a6.13513/
    As far as I can tell that method is still using post amp signal which is exactly what I'm trying to avoid.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings cal3thousand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 19 2013
    AZ Member #
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    My Garage
    1994 Volvo 850 Turbo
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmaclax013 View Post
    As far as I can tell that method is still using post amp signal which is exactly what I'm trying to avoid.
    My bad... you are absolutely right
    Danton Black: 2009 Audi C6.5 A6 Sedan (Quattro, 3.0T, Prestige)
    I miss my Avant, longing for a 2011 3.0T
    Dead:
    Griselda, aka Grizzy: 2007 Audi C6 A6 Avant (Quattro, S-Line)

    Just some small cosmetic mods while getting to Stage 0

  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 12 2014
    AZ Member #
    282173
    Location
    Long Island

    Quote Originally Posted by cal3thousand View Post
    My bad... you are absolutely right
    Honestly, summing the post amp signal to a DSP then sending that full range to an aftermarket amp would probably be fine, but I'm a bit of a snob, and also I'd like to remove the factory amp completely so this is the only way for me to do it "right"



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