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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings VezSQ5's Avatar
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    May 27 2019
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    Creaking noise from NEW lower rear control arms. Need help

    so I had bad bushings in there, so we replaced all 4 lower control arms. Ever since then, the car makes some creaking noise when hitting bumps. I can also replicate the creaking noise when jacking up and down the SQ5. It comes from the bolt/bushing of the lower rear control arms, where it bolts to subframe. conrol ars are bilstein brand new. If I loosen the bolt a bit, it stops... but if I torque it back to spec at 70NM + 180, its creaks again. VERY annoying. I tired greasing.. no help. I also tried going way above torque spec, and it wont help. Only thing that helps is loosing the nuts a little bit. Not enough to be loose, but enough to stop squeaking/creaking.

    I didnt replace the bolts and nuts.. maybe I should ?

    I also torqued everything while the suspension was loaded to ride height. I tried about everything, but still that annoying creaking sound.

    any advice ? Am I just unlucky enough to have hit bad brand new control arms bushings?

    any help is welcome
    thanks
    Last edited by VezSQ5; 06-11-2019 at 01:39 PM.

  2. #2
    Active Member One Ring
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    Apr 15 2019
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    Chicago

    I’m having the same problem With my 84, I’m waiting for my mechanic to look at it, but I found this post on Audi world.com, try it out and let me know if it works for you.
    ——————-
    I had the same creaking noises coming from the drivers side mostly after I had lowered my A6. I went from the base springs to eibach lowering springs with stock shocks. 1.2" drop. Since it wasn't a big drop, I kept the stock shocks on. Shortly after about 50miles or so, I noticed the creaking noises when going over speed bumps or drive way inclines. After some trouble shooting and my mechanic suggested replacing the upper control arms due to worn bushings, the problem was still present. What ended up fixing the noise come to find out is that the lower control arm bolts needed to be loose when the car is lowered resting on the full body weight then re-tightened after new springs are installed. I did two alignments prior with no fix until an experienced VW/Audi tech mentioned the fix to my mechanic. Since the lower control arm bolts were torqued to the higher stock spring positions/travel, when lowering, it added more stress to the bushings/bolts.Been great ever since. Hope this helps...


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  3. #3
    Active Member One Ring
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    I meant to say my A4, not 84.


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  4. #4
    Active Member Two Rings VezSQ5's Avatar
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    Well.. my car was not lowered and bolts were tighten at normal driving height (suspension compressed)

    Thanks for the input though

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings MSq5's Avatar
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    Feb 14 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by VezSQ5 View Post
    Well.. my car was not lowered and bolts were tighten at normal driving height (suspension compressed)

    Thanks for the input though
    I know greasing did not solve the problem. Maybe try a little grease around the bolt shaft, itself, just above the threads? The bolt shaft and the hole may be rubbing slightly somehow under compression. Strange.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    I recently replaced my rear upper control arms for the same creaking symptoms. I replaced with OEM Meyle upper arms and that solved my problem, luckily didn't have to change out the lower arms.

    If you're 100% positive the creaking is coming from the lower arms then it could be a bad manuf. batch. Contact bilstein see what your exchange options are. Could also try installing an OEM arm, or arms from a different aftermarket brand.
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  7. #7
    Active Member Two Rings VezSQ5's Avatar
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    bilstein has 1 year warranty. Ill check with them. But what about the botl and nuts? should they be replaced ? Or can I just re-use the old ones? I re-used the old ones and im starting to worry about them

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings SQive's Avatar
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    Apr 26 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by VezSQ5 View Post
    bilstein has 1 year warranty. Ill check with them. But what about the botl and nuts? should they be replaced ? Or can I just re-use the old ones? I re-used the old ones and im starting to worry about them
    Sounds like you answered your own question.
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  9. #9
    Active Member Two Rings VezSQ5's Avatar
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    Hehe wich part? The bolts and nuts?

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings SQive's Avatar
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    Apr 26 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by VezSQ5 View Post
    Hehe wich part? The bolts and nuts?
    Well yeah. . .If you're worried about them, replace them. Couldn't hurt.
    2012 R8 GT, Suzuka with carbon fiber (#298 of 333)
    2017 Q7 P+, Ink Blue, Pistachio Beige, Warm, Vision, Bose, Towing (wife's ride)
    2016 SQ5, Sepang, Black Optic, Technology, BBS CH-R Gold 20x10.5 with 295's
    -2014 SQ5, Monsoon, Sans pano, totaled by a Xanexed-out broad in a Denali XL

  11. #11
    Active Member Two Rings VezSQ5's Avatar
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    I ordered new bolts and nuts. As I read about them, they are strech bolts. Means that they stretch when torqued. So they are only 1 use and needs to replaced. When they stretch, the outter diamater is reduced a little, so if you re-use them and torque again, and again, they keep streching and thinning making that creaking noise .. .that is my theory. :)

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Jayz691's Avatar
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    Well, I noticed you said you didn't replace bolts. That torque spec is for new bolts, cuts that extra 180 is to stretch bolt. So I would try torqueing it down little less.

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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings BG SQ5's Avatar
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    I’d be willing to bet it’s due to the bolt being stretched already, but you’re applying the torque that is spec’d for a new bolt...which is going to result in more load on the bushing.
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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings SQive's Avatar
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    I believe they call these "TTY", meaning torque-to-yield, and they should not be reused.
    My understanding is that they are safety-related and designed to give out in a crash situation.
    Have you seen these new cars come apart? At least it's to protect the occupants.
    2012 R8 GT, Suzuka with carbon fiber (#298 of 333)
    2017 Q7 P+, Ink Blue, Pistachio Beige, Warm, Vision, Bose, Towing (wife's ride)
    2016 SQ5, Sepang, Black Optic, Technology, BBS CH-R Gold 20x10.5 with 295's
    -2014 SQ5, Monsoon, Sans pano, totaled by a Xanexed-out broad in a Denali XL

  15. #15
    Active Member Two Rings VezSQ5's Avatar
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    Thanks gents. It has been a great learning experience. I have ordered 2 bolts and nuts at the stealer for 40$ :o what a rape in the ***

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings SQive's Avatar
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    Apr 26 2014
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    2012 R8 GT; 2016 SQ5; 2017 Q7
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    Quote Originally Posted by VezSQ5 View Post
    Thanks gents. It has been a great learning experience. I have ordered 2 bolts and nuts at the stealer for 40$ :o what a rape in the ***
    If they had to order them, you might as well have ordered them yourself.
    There are some OEM-parts distributors online that probably charge what the dealers pay them for.
    2012 R8 GT, Suzuka with carbon fiber (#298 of 333)
    2017 Q7 P+, Ink Blue, Pistachio Beige, Warm, Vision, Bose, Towing (wife's ride)
    2016 SQ5, Sepang, Black Optic, Technology, BBS CH-R Gold 20x10.5 with 295's
    -2014 SQ5, Monsoon, Sans pano, totaled by a Xanexed-out broad in a Denali XL

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