Complete guide of speakers in the B9 B&O system

[AldermanToffee]

Plenty of people have done that. If you want to reuse the car's wiring then check out my B&O amp break out board, it makes it a breeze.

Good to know. I have the Audi Sound System, so this is likely something that I'll go for.

[bruce_miranda]

Good to know. I have the Audi Sound System, so this is likely something that I'll go for.

The only thing in an Audi Sound System car is the extra effort required to install a MOST loop and you need to recode the car for B&O before the Zen-V is recognised.

[AldermanToffee]

The only thing in an Audi Sound System car is the extra effort required to install a MOST loop and you need to recode the car for B&O before the Zen-V is recognised.

Yes not much of an issue at all. The headunit has a MOST output no, it just isn't activated until coded as B&O?

Can't imagine it should take much longer than 20 minutes or so to install. Most of that time is probably unbolting the glovebox..

[bruce_miranda]

There is not much room available behind the MMI. So you need to probably take the MOST loop all the way to the boot. And then if you plan to re use the car's speaker wires then they too will need to be extended to the back. If you can do all that in 20mins, then I tip my hat to you sir.

[Bobby Kinstle]

I can barely make 7 trips between my car and my toolbox in 20 minutes!

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Audizine Forum mobile app

[AldermanToffee]

There is not much room available behind the MMI. So you need to probably take the MOST loop all the way to the boot. And then if you plan to re use the car's speaker wires then they too will need to be extended to the back. If you can do all that in 20mins, then I tip my hat to you sir.

Heh, hadn't considered the whole space issue behind the MMI..

In which case, I can't see why you couldn't grab the MOST cable from a B&O system and place the ZEN V under the seat. But still, definitely longer than 20 minutes.

[bruce_miranda]

Heh, hadn't considered the whole space issue behind the MMI..

In which case, I can't see why you couldn't grab the MOST cable from a B&O system and place the ZEN V under the seat. But still, definitely longer than 20 minutes.

Some inspiration for you.

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa.../#post-5978262

[Bobby Kinstle]

Did we just discover a new front door midrange candidate?

https://www.dynaudio.com/car-audio/a...r-430-midrange

[AldermanToffee]

Some inspiration for you.

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa.../#post-5978262

That's a great write up.

I'd also like to go for a stealth setup - at least in terms of the DSP / amps. The only issue for me is that I have no space under my boot floor, so that might pose an issue..

[Bobby Kinstle]

Did he have to give up his spare tire for those amps?

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[AldermanToffee]

Did he have to give up his spare tire for those amps?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Audizine Forum mobile app

Yes.

[bruce_miranda]

Did we just discover a new front door midrange candidate?

https://www.dynaudio.com/car-audio/a...r-430-midrange

If you are willing to make custom mounting brackets for speakers, then there are quite a few options out there that can be made to fit.

[bruce_miranda]

Did he have to give up his spare tire for those amps?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Audizine Forum mobile app

Maybe the RS doesn't come with a spare. I know there are trim levels in some parts of the world where the spare isn't included and instead replaced with a repair kit. I only know this because the boot liner can be bought for a car with and without a spare.

[Bobby Kinstle]

If you are willing to make custom mounting brackets for speakers, then there are quite a few options out there that can be made to fit.

He said in his post the factory pocket was just big enough to accommodate the midrange driver so just aligning the screw holes was needed for custom fab. Not uncommon to make "something" though I think the main issue was that the mid has six holes and the factory mount only has 2.

[bruce_miranda]

He said in his post the factory pocket was just big enough to accommodate the midrange driver so just aligning the screw holes was needed for custom fab. Not uncommon to make "something" though I think the main issue was that the mid has six holes and the factory mount only has 2.

I think he meant the door card could accommodate the depth of the speaker because it has a corresponding indent on the inner door skin. So you can be sure that some kind of customisation was performed at the speaker mounting end. Besides, when you see how much a pair of those drivers cost, most will move quickly on.

[Bobby Kinstle]

I didn't look up the price yet but it looks expensive.

Almost all of these drivers are going to need at least a little custom mounting work. But it fits in the space and that's a pretty short list.

[Bobby Kinstle]

HOLY $H!T $1000 a pair!!!

[bruce_miranda]

HOLY $H!T $1000 a pair!!!

would you like fries with that.....told ya.

[Bobby Kinstle]

I didn't spend $1000 on the entire project!

[Marc R]

Hi Bruce,

Which adapter rings did U use for the front bass speakers? I have watched the YT vid of "its pronounced vaguh" and couldn't quite get which adapters where used.

I hope i can finally get a good adapter for my boston pro's ...

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G973F met Tapatalk

[bruce_miranda]

Hi Bruce,

Which adapter rings did U use for the front bass speakers? I have watched the YT vid of "its pronounced vaguh" and couldn't quite get which adapters where used.

I hope a can finally get a good adapter for my boston pro's ...

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G973F met Tapatalk

They aren't off the shelf adapters. I make them using several parts and are specific to the speakers used in the car. Contact me directly if you want a set.

[AldermanToffee]

Bruce,

Once my I have my car back with my built engine (likely sometime January), I'll be heading on over to CBS Automotive for a bespoke audio setup. One of the main points was wanting to have two subs in the parcel shelf.

They've done some pretty beefy projects - I assume you've probably seen some of their work as their fairly known over here.

If it does go ahead I'll document everything on the build.

[Marc R]

They aren't off the shelf adapters. I make them using several parts and are specific to the speakers used in the car. Contact me directly if you want a set.

Will do as soon as i can, i still have your email from last time.
Thanks.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G973F met Tapatalk

[melba12]

Hi Bobby,

Thanks to you I've successfully upgraded:

• Center dash mid (Peerless Tymphany) & tweeter (ND25 w/o cap)
• Lower A pillar tweeters (ND25 w/ 8.2uF cap)
• Front door mids (Peerless Tymphany) & woofers (Morel CAW 638)
• Rear door woofers (Dayton GF180 w/ 0.15mH inductor) and tweeters (ND25 w/ 8.2uF cap)
• Will decide about the subwoofer in the future

Frankly I don't have the ear or vocabulary to describe the upgrade other than "it sounds way better now".

Some notes on my install process:

• When you're buying capacitors and/or inductors, choose an appropriate size. The 250v capacitors I bought are about as big as the tweeters themselves they fit and work fine (I think) but they're just funny looking
• I didn't use screws to mount either of the center channel speakers , just the packing foam for the tweeter, and Dremel'd down the mid just enough to have a snug fit when I jam it in. I was dealing with quite a bit of rattle which I thought was the center channel grill, but then I realized that the mid was actually in contact with the grill so I had to dremel out a bit more.
• For the front door woofers I epoxied the ring listed in the spreadsheet to a cut-down version of the factory ring. This allowed me to use the factory wire harness built into the ring.
• Removing the A pillars was the biggest PITA, here's my tip: when you initially pull the trim out from the top side, pull it as far out as it goes- this is the only way you'll be able to undo the clip inside. After that you can push the tab down (towards the bottom of the A pillar) to undo the trim piece. I have medium sized hands and just stuck my finger in.
• If you suck at soldering good joints like me, cover the joint with hot glue after you complete it- it'll make the connection sturdier.
• Not quite sure if I got the polarity right for all the speakers but I just made sure to wire each speaker type the same way
• I didn't feel like waiting a month for tweeter harnesses to ship so I reused the ones in the factory brackets. Same goes for the front door mids- I cut out the harness clip and soldered it in with some wires I had laying around. For the center dash tweeter and mid, I just soldered them straight in.

This is my first time working on cars as well as audio systems. It was a fun and educational experience! If anyone is having issues with any part of this process please message me!

[Bobby Kinstle]

Hi Bobby,
Frankly I don't have the ear or vocabulary to describe the upgrade other than "it sounds way better now".

I'm glad you like it. How's the Morel woofer sound? I haven't been able to hear one in person yet. Don't be alarmed if you find yourself suddenly adjusting the tone controls in 1-2 months as all those drivers break in.

Some notes on my install process:

When you're buying capacitors and/or inductors, choose an appropriate size. The 250v capacitors I bought are about as big as the tweeters themselves they fit and work fine (I think) but they're just funny looking

Cars are horribly noisy environments electrically speaking. Even tiny voltage spikes in the form of noise above the cap's rating can rapidly degrade the capacitor. So 250V really isn't all that out of line. (plus it's hard to buy smaller than that in audio grade caps anyway)

Not quite sure if I got the polarity right for all the speakers but I just made sure to wire each speaker type the same way

That's a good policy. Polarity doesn't really matter as long as everybody is the same.

I didn't feel like waiting a month for tweeter harnesses to ship so I reused the ones in the factory brackets. Same goes for the front door mids- I cut out the harness clip and soldered it in with some wires I had laying around. For the center dash tweeter and mid, I just soldered them straight in.

I often reuse the factory mounts and harnesses too. Makes it easier to change again in the future if you need to.

This is my first time working on cars as well as audio systems. It was a fun and educational experience! If anyone is having issues with any part of this process please message me!

Wow you really jumped in with both feet. Congrats!

[dkmesa]

Hi Bobby,

Thanks to you I've successfully upgraded:

• Center dash mid (Peerless Tymphany) & tweeter (ND25 w/o cap)
• Lower A pillar tweeters (ND25 w/ 8.2uF cap)
• Front door mids (Peerless Tymphany) & woofers (Morel CAW 638)
• Rear door woofers (Dayton GF180 w/ 0.15mH inductor) and tweeters (ND25 w/ 8.2uF cap)
• Will decide about the subwoofer in the future

Frankly I don't have the ear or vocabulary to describe the upgrade other than "it sounds way better now".

Some notes on my install process:

• When you're buying capacitors and/or inductors, choose an appropriate size. The 250v capacitors I bought are about as big as the tweeters themselves they fit and work fine (I think) but they're just funny looking
• I didn't use screws to mount either of the center channel speakers , just the packing foam for the tweeter, and Dremel'd down the mid just enough to have a snug fit when I jam it in. I was dealing with quite a bit of rattle which I thought was the center channel grill, but then I realized that the mid was actually in contact with the grill so I had to dremel out a bit more.
• For the front door woofers I epoxied the ring listed in the spreadsheet to a cut-down version of the factory ring. This allowed me to use the factory wire harness built into the ring.
• Removing the A pillars was the biggest PITA, here's my tip: when you initially pull the trim out from the top side, pull it as far out as it goes- this is the only way you'll be able to undo the clip inside. After that you can push the tab down (towards the bottom of the A pillar) to undo the trim piece. I have medium sized hands and just stuck my finger in.
• If you suck at soldering good joints like me, cover the joint with hot glue after you complete it- it'll make the connection sturdier.
• Not quite sure if I got the polarity right for all the speakers but I just made sure to wire each speaker type the same way
• I didn't feel like waiting a month for tweeter harnesses to ship so I reused the ones in the factory brackets. Same goes for the front door mids- I cut out the harness clip and soldered it in with some wires I had laying around. For the center dash tweeter and mid, I just soldered them straight in.

This is my first time working on cars as well as audio systems. It was a fun and educational experience! If anyone is having issues with any part of this process please message me!

Sounds awesome. Did you take any pics of the install? Which model Tymphany did you use?

[Bobby Kinstle]

Sounds awesome. Did you take any pics of the install? Which model Tymphany did you use?

https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/lou...4-48-inch.html

This one

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[Mark888]

This thread is awesome. I have been tuning my B&O system in my 18 SQ5 by simply adding resistance to the individual speaker paths to adjust their balance. Mainly I was looking to pull down the levels of the tweeters which are way too loud compared to the woofers. I did a writeup here on audiworld - https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q5-...uning-3025615/

I still plan to do more. Specifically, I would like to raise the crossover point of the front tweeters, and likely replace the 3 front tweeters. How easy is the A Pillar removal on the B9? I'm thinking of Focal or DLS tweeters. @vsaudi @Bobby Kinstle , thoughts ?

@bruce_miranda , I am also still interested in the connector you mentioned in my writeup. Can you tell me more about it?

Mark

[oxxomxxo]

This thread is awesome. I have been tuning my B&O system in my 18 SQ5 by simply adding resistance to the individual speaker paths to adjust their balance. Mainly I was looking to pull down the levels of the tweeters which are way too loud compared to the woofers. I did a writeup here on audiworld - https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q5-...uning-3025615/

I still plan to do more. Specifically, I would like to raise the crossover point of the front tweeters, and likely replace the 3 front tweeters. How easy is the A Pillar removal on the B9? I'm thinking of Focal or DLS tweeters. @vsaudi @Bobby Kinstle , thoughts ?

@bruce_miranda , I am also still interested in the connector you mentioned in my writeup. Can you tell me more about it?

Mark

https://www.brucemiranda.com/product/amp-38p-board


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Bobby Kinstle]

This thread is awesome. I have been tuning my B&O system in my 18 SQ5 by simply adding resistance to the individual speaker paths to adjust their balance. Mainly I was looking to pull down the levels of the tweeters which are way too loud compared to the woofers. I did a writeup here on audiworld - https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q5-...uning-3025615/

I still plan to do more. Specifically, I would like to raise the crossover point of the front tweeters, and likely replace the 3 front tweeters. How easy is the A Pillar removal on the B9? I'm thinking of Focal or DLS tweeters. @vsaudi @Bobby Kinstle , thoughts ?

Mark

Are you sure you want to raise that crossover point on the front feature? Because it's already 8.5 kHz. Most people will lower it down to about four or five kilohertz and then put in an aftermarket tweeter.

Make sure that if you're changing crossover components and resistors that the crossover capacitor and inductor values are affected by the impedance of the circuit. Unless you're doing a proper l pad and just adding a resistor in series, you have to do the math for your capacitor sizes, assuming a higher impedance tweeter than 4 ohms. Otherwise you'll get a much different crossover point than you are expecting.

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[Mark888]

Are you sure you want to raise that crossover point on the front feature? Because it's already 8.5 kHz. Most people will lower it down to about four or five kilohertz and then put in an aftermarket tweeter.

Make sure that if you're changing crossover components and resistors that the crossover capacitor and inductor values are affected by the impedance of the circuit. Unless you're doing a proper l pad and just adding a resistor in series, you have to do the math for your capacitor sizes, assuming a higher impedance tweeter than 4 ohms. Otherwise you'll get a much different crossover point than you are expecting.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Audizine Forum mobile app

Excellent points for sure. I was actually just getting ready to correctly pad the paths to keep the load at 4 ohms for each in component.

My goal is to carve out a dip in the spectrum between say 1kHz and 6kHz. I came upon this technique from studying the crossovers of some of my favorite B&W speakers. It creates separation in a way that helps to improve detail.

But the tweeters in this B&O system are horrific. Harsh, smeary. So I think I will start by keeping the lows and mids but replace the tweeters.

How is it to pull the A pillars? Any advice to avoid breaking clips?

Mark

[kmarei]

Excellent points for sure. I was actually just getting ready to correctly pad the paths to keep the load at 4 ohms for each in component.

My goal is to carve out a dip in the spectrum between say 1kHz and 6kHz. I came upon this technique from studying the crossovers of some of my favorite B&W speakers. It creates separation in a way that helps to improve detail.

But the tweeters in this B&O system are horrific. Harsh, smeary. So I think I will start by keeping the lows and mids but replace the tweeters.

How is it to pull the A pillars? Any advice to avoid breaking clips?

Mark

I usually like a dip around 3khz, that's usually the harshest frequency and my ears are very sensitive to it
I can help you with the a pillar removal, it's super easy, and no risk of breaking clips

[Mark888]

I usually like a dip around 3khz, that's usually the harshest frequency and my ears are very sensitive to it
I can help you with the a pillar removal, it's super easy, and no risk of breaking clips

Very nice. I pulled enough to feel the top clip release. After that I didn't want to force it. IT didn't feel like it wanted to come easily. So yeah, give me the scoop!

Mark

[Bobby Kinstle]

Very nice. I pulled enough to feel the top clip release. After that I didn't want to force it. IT didn't feel like it wanted to come easily. So yeah, give me the scoop!

The top clip is easy once you know how it works, but it's really hard to figure out without seeing it. So here's what you do. Get a long thin flat blade screwdriver. You have it popped loose on the top. Take your cell phone flash light and shine it down the opening from the top while looking into it. This is hard to do and very uncomfortable. Do it away from the sunlight if you can. When you look down, you'll see a metal box with a hole in the side that's facing your eyes. Insert the screwdriver into that slot and push the tab inside down by 1 cm. Then it'll pop loose. The rest are normal pop clips like in the door and the bottom of the A pillar cover has some fabric fingers engaged into the dash. You'll need to pull out the trim piece on the edge of the dash to unlock those fingers (it just pulls off too).

That clip on the top of the A pillar is strong enough to hold the cover in place when the side impact airbag deploys so don't think for an instant you can overpower it. That's why it's there. When you put the cover back on, you will need to slide the inner cage back into the top position and then press to snap it back in. Don't worry, it'll be obvious once you have it out and can get a good look at how it works.

[Bobby Kinstle]

Excellent points for sure. I was actually just getting ready to correctly pad the paths to keep the load at 4 ohms for each in component.

My goal is to carve out a dip in the spectrum between say 1kHz and 6kHz. I came upon this technique from studying the crossovers of some of my favorite B&W speakers. It creates separation in a way that helps to improve detail.

But the tweeters in this B&O system are horrific. Harsh, smeary. So I think I will start by keeping the lows and mids but replace the tweeters.

I want you to consider something. The crossover point for the tweeters is 8.5khz at 4 ohms. As you add resistance you are lowering the crossover point. It may very well be the case that they sound better because of the lower crossover point rather than the decreased volume. I run mine at 5Khz (Dayton ND25 with 8uF, Peerless GBS midrange). Putting the proper Lpad might make them sound worse because it goes back to 8.5khz crossover point.

The factory tweeters are horrible though. Get ride of them. The filter cap they used is so bad, it also ends up blocking everything above 12.5khz. So the stock tweeter in the A pillar only plays 8.5 to 12.5Khz. Same for the rear door. The center tweeter has no cap and plays to 20khz. I used some diagnostic equipment on mine to do real measurements and I found that bypassing the cap could get the tweeter to run up to 20khz no problem. I suspect using a proper audio grade cap (even a good audio grade electrolytic cap) could significantly improve the sound quality.

A lot of the high frequency harshness comes from that terrible midrange in the door too. :( It's a slippery slope. Once you fix something, it only makes the weaknesses of the other drivers more apparent. Disable 3D effect, replace everything else. It is your destiny.

[Mark888]

I want you to consider something. The crossover point for the tweeters is 8.5khz at 4 ohms. As you add resistance you are lowering the crossover point. It may very well be the case that they sound better because of the lower crossover point rather than the decreased volume. I run mine at 5Khz (Dayton ND25 with 8uF, Peerless GBS midrange). Putting the proper Lpad might make them sound worse because it goes back to 8.5khz crossover point.

The factory tweeters are horrible though. Get ride of them. The filter cap they used is so bad, it also ends up blocking everything above 12.5khz. So the stock tweeter in the A pillar only plays 8.5 to 12.5Khz. Same for the rear door. The center tweeter has no cap and plays to 20khz. I used some diagnostic equipment on mine to do real measurements and I found that bypassing the cap could get the tweeter to run up to 20khz no problem. I suspect using a proper audio grade cap (even a good audio grade electrolytic cap) could significantly improve the sound quality.

A lot of the high frequency harshness comes from that terrible midrange in the door too. :( It's a slippery slope. Once you fix something, it only makes the weaknesses of the other drivers more apparent. Disable 3D effect, replace everything else. It is your destiny.

Excellent thoughts. The LPF you mention at 12.5kHz on the tweeters... Is it because there is an inductor in the path or just a product of the tweeter's capabilities?

Regarding crossover points with regard to Lpads... I have the resistors before the additional passive crossover components so I believe that would keep the load that the cap sees the same, simply lowering the voltage delivered. But I could be wrong. Either way. If I need to pad the new components I will properly equalize by adding the compensatory resistance across +/-

I think my next steps are:

1. Replace the a pillar tweeters and perhaps the mid dash tweeter and see how things sound. If I need to pad or adjust the crossover frequency with some better caps, I will very likely do step 2

2. Make a proper crossover board that sits right by the amp. To do this I'd like to find a male / female pair of wiring harnesses that can be plugged inline, or removed if needed and just replug the OEM path at any time. Does anyone know of a male female pair of harnesses that have the pigtails ready to be wired? I feel like there should be a lot of choices here.

I'm leaning towards Focal or DLS for the tweeters. Or I may retrofit an old set of B&W tweeters. Interested to know what fits relatively easily.

Mark

[Bobby Kinstle]

Excellent thoughts. The LPF you mention at 12.5kHz on the tweeters... Is it because there is an inductor in the path or just a product of the tweeter's capabilities?

Regarding crossover points with regard to Lpads... I have the resistors before the additional passive crossover components so I believe that would keep the load that the cap sees the same, simply lowering the voltage delivered. But I could be wrong. Either way. If I need to pad the new components I will properly equalize by adding the compensatory resistance across +/-

I think my next steps are:

1. Replace the a pillar tweeters and perhaps the mid dash tweeter and see how things sound. If I need to pad or adjust the crossover frequency with some better caps, I will very likely do step 2

2. Make a proper crossover board that sits right by the amp. To do this I'd like to find a male / female pair of wiring harnesses that can be plugged inline, or removed if needed and just replug the OEM path at any time. Does anyone know of a male female pair of harnesses that have the pigtails ready to be wired? I feel like there should be a lot of choices here.

I'm leaning towards Focal or DLS for the tweeters. Or I may retrofit an old set of B&W tweeters. Interested to know what fits relatively easily.

Mark

The low pass effect on the tweeter is caused by the incredibly low quality capacitor that they used as a high-pass filter. It's not intentional. It's just a property of being such a terrible component. A better cap on there would improve the situation significantly.

Regarding your interaction between your resistors and the crossover, as far as changing the crossover frequency goes, it does not matter which side the resistors are on because it's a series circuit. However, I do need to point out one other thing and that is that an elpad always needs to be after the high pass filter. Otherwise you're going to be taking energy from the entire signal. Case of the a pillar tweeter's you're also taking energy from the mid-range in the door because that mid-range is wired in parallel with the A pillar tweeter.

In the rear door you want to have the same situation where the l pad needs to be after the tweeter capacitor or it's going to be shunting all of the energy from the woofer as well. In this regard I straight up series resistor rather than a proper l pad is probably better because you don't have that path to ground for bass energy to follow

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[Mark888]

The low pass effect on the tweeter is caused by the incredibly low quality capacitor that they used as a high-pass filter. It's not intentional. It's just a property of being such a terrible component. A better cap on there would improve the situation significantly.

Regarding your interaction between your resistors and the crossover, as far as changing the crossover frequency goes, it does not matter which side the resistors are on because it's a series circuit. However, I do need to point out one other thing and that is that an elpad always needs to be after the high pass filter. Otherwise you're going to be taking energy from the entire signal. Case of the a pillar tweeter's you're also taking energy from the mid-range in the door because that mid-range is wired in parallel with the A pillar tweeter.

In the rear door you want to have the same situation where the l pad needs to be after the tweeter capacitor or it's going to be shunting all of the energy from the woofer as well. In this regard I straight up series resistor rather than a proper l pad is probably better because you don't have that path to ground for bass energy to follow

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Audizine Forum mobile app

Noted. Damping both the mid and the tweeter was definitely intentional for me since I knew that was a combined path. I also thought both the mids and highs were too hot in the system. What is the location of the cap for the lower A pillar tweeters? I assume it is right at the tweeter but I realize it could be sitting on the mid as well depending on how they wired the circuit. I was hoping to not have to pull the door panels to correct this but if I have to, so be it.

Any notes for pulling the A pillar trim? I want to look into this soon.

[Bobby Kinstle]

Noted. Damping both the mid and the tweeter was definitely intentional for me since I knew that was a combined path. I also thought both the mids and highs were too hot in the system. What is the location of the cap for the lower A pillar tweeters? I assume it is right at the tweeter but I realize it could be sitting on the mid as well depending on how they wired the circuit. I was hoping to not have to pull the door panels to correct this but if I have to, so be it.

Any notes for pulling the A pillar trim? I want to look into this soon.

If you ever replace that mid-range try really hard to get the peerless GBS dome and not the fairalpro mid-range because if you don't like how bright the factory midrange is, you're definitely not going to like that one.

In all cases, the capacitor for the tweeter is located on the housing itself in between the plug on the housing and the voice coil. I recommend removing it entirely and just bypassing it and putting the capacitor where you want it to be. The one exception is the center channel Tweeter which does not have a capacitor at all. There is plenty of room in the rear door panel and in the front a pillar cover for all the components you could ever want.

To remove the front a pillar cover you have to first remove the trim piece on the side of the dash. Open the door and then pull out the trim piece there. Next you pull out on the cover until the snaps come loose. The top snap will only come out about a quarter of an inch and then it will lock in place. This is a safety feature to prevent the airbag from turning the a pillar cover into a deadly projectile. There is a sliding cage nut inside there that is very difficult to reach. You can find a picture online so that you can see what it looks like before you go in there. It'll make a lot more sense. Otherwise you have to get up, put your head in there and shine your cell phone flashlight down to that hole and see the latch mechanism. You will see a square box with a slot cut in one end of it and you need to insert a very long thin flathead screwdriver into that slot and then push the sliding box inside downward about 1 cm. Then it will unlock and the cover will just fall off.

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[Mark888]

If you ever replace that mid-range try really hard to get the peerless GBS dome and not the fairalpro mid-range because if you don't like how bright the factory midrange is, you're definitely not going to like that one.

In all cases, the capacitor for the tweeter is located on the housing itself in between the plug on the housing and the voice coil. I recommend removing it entirely and just bypassing it and putting the capacitor where you want it to be. The one exception is the center channel Tweeter which does not have a capacitor at all. There is plenty of room in the rear door panel and in the front a pillar cover for all the components you could ever want.

To remove the front a pillar cover you have to first remove the trim piece on the side of the dash. Open the door and then pull out the trim piece there. Next you pull out on the cover until the snaps come loose. The top snap will only come out about a quarter of an inch and then it will lock in place. This is a safety feature to prevent the airbag from turning the a pillar cover into a deadly projectile. There is a sliding cage nut inside there that is very difficult to reach. You can find a picture online so that you can see what it looks like before you go in there. It'll make a lot more sense. Otherwise you have to get up, put your head in there and shine your cell phone flashlight down to that hole and see the latch mechanism. You will see a square box with a slot cut in one end of it and you need to insert a very long thin flathead screwdriver into that slot and then push the sliding box inside downward about 1 cm. Then it will unlock and the cover will just fall off.

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Thank you! What ever happened to a good old fashioned screw to hold on a piece of trim? ;)

Regarding mids and highs I'll have to play around once I change out the cap. I don't mind bright clean mids. I just need them to be in balance with the lows. OEM they are most definitely not, hence the attenuation...

I'm contemplating using the upper A Pillar tweeter as the main tweeter. Any thoughts? Has it been done?

Mark