Rear breather block off

[Epic-A3]

I've blocked the breather on the turbo of my 06 A3 BPY . Is it completely necessary to plumb the port from the intake to a catch can or can I block it off as well? I have a catch can set up for the front breather.

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[ROH ECHT]

Your post is a bit confusing to me, but lets see if I get it. You have a CC installed, yes? OK...the crankcase needs to maintain one atmospheric pressure of 14.7 psi...so it needs to be open to atmosphere or utilize the PCV function to relieve itself of vacuum or pressure. When the engine is in vacuum = the crankcase needs to suck in air...and when under boost = it needs to breathe or exhale. If it cannot, you will have catastrophic blowby and blow out seals etc..

Basically, you can use the CC and leave the rear breather tube(without the check valve inside it) or in a vent-to-atmosphere set-up where you can plug the CC to valve cover port, plug the intake return from the valve cover, and leave open the return port of the CC. Given you have already plugged the rear breather to turbo intake...you need the return port of the CC to be left open and you could plug off the port of the new PCV delete/CC plate...which is the recycling channel through the valve cover to the turbo inlet. You could attach a hose to the CC's return port...the one that you are no longer attaching to the new CC plate on the valve cover. You could then run that hose to a location so the crankcase vapors exiting the CC won't mess up the engine bay.

Can you post pics of it currently? I can copy your pics, edit and add arrows to the pic with better explanations.

[Epic-A3]

Your post is a bit confusing to me, but lets see if I get it. You have a CC installed, yes? OK...the crankcase needs to maintain one atmospheric pressure of 14.7 psi...so it needs to be open to atmosphere or utilize the PCV function to relieve itself of vacuum or pressure. When the engine is in vacuum = the crankcase needs to suck in air...and when under boost = it needs to breathe or exhale. If it cannot, you will have catastrophic blowby and blow out seals etc..

Basically, you can use the CC and leave the rear breather tube(without the check valve inside it) or in a vent-to-atmosphere set-up where you can plug the CC to valve cover port, plug the intake return from the valve cover, and leave open the return port of the CC. Given you have already plugged the rear breather to turbo intake...you need the return port of the CC to be left open and you could plug off the port of the new PCV delete/CC plate...which is the recycling channel through the valve cover to the turbo inlet. You could attach a hose to the CC's return port...the one that you are no longer attaching to the new CC plate on the valve cover. You could then run that hose to a location so the crankcase vapors exiting the CC won't mess up the engine bay.

Can you post pics of it currently? I can copy your pics, edit and add arrows to the pic with better explanations.

Sorry for the confusion, I was running the typical catch can, not vented before. With the rebuild I decided to block the rear breather. I have the vented can now.
I dont have good pics of the previous setup but it was a basic catch can for the front of the intake. The rear breather stayed OEM until now.
I understand your explanation, it was very good. I'll block the rear entirely, run the normal hose from cc to intake port, then send it the VTA can and back in?
So the VTA can will keep the pressure around the 14.7 psi?
Do I leave the factory baffles underneath the intake in, or remove them? I know the evap line can stay or be rerouted.
Thanks for you help and great explanation.
I'd add the pics you need but I'm about 8 weeks out from having my A3 back together. I'll post more as soon as it's done to get your opinion. The last thing I need is to hit the key on a fresh engine and it go click bang.

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[Epic-A3]

Sorry for the confusion, I was running the typical catch can, not vented before. With the rebuild I decided to block the rear breather. I have the vented can now.
I dont have good pics of the previous setup but it was a basic catch can for the front of the intake. The rear breather stayed OEM until now.
I understand your explanation, it was very good. I'll block the rear entirely, run the normal hose from cc to intake port, then send it the VTA can and back in?
So the VTA can will keep the pressure around the 14.7 psi?
Do I leave the factory baffles underneath the intake in, or remove them? I know the evap line can stay or be rerouted.
Thanks for you help and great explanation.
I'd add the pics you need but I'm about 8 weeks out from having my A3 back together. I'll post more as soon as it's done to get your opinion. The last thing I need is to hit the key on a fresh engine and it go click bang.

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This is the plate I have. Which ports need plugged, and which need hooked up. I'm a bit confused my self after rereading.
The rear stays plugged, the pcv delete plate is on, the OEM hose from the crank to vc stays in place? Run a line to the intake on the cc from the vc. leave the other side of the cc open or run a hose for a cleaner set up, and plug the return on the PCV delete plate? It's a vented can now.
Thanks again man.20190520_210300.jpeg

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[ROH ECHT]

Yes, you can block off the breather and both sides of the valve cover when using a VTA catch-can...but keep intact the PCV delete plate to oil filter housing tube.

Yes, leave the EVAP intact through an oem valve cover...but you could opt to reroute it. EVAP reroute is usually done with a billet valve cover, I have a crude reroute vid from when I was attempting to detect why oil usage had increased. You could do so in a more tidy manner: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUP5Lh4tonA

[Epic-A3]

Yes, you can block off the breather and both sides of the valve cover when using a VTA catch-can...but keep intact the PCV delete plate to oil filter housing tube.

Yes, leave the EVAP intact through an oem valve cover...but you could opt to reroute it. EVAP reroute is usually done with a billet valve cover, I have a crude reroute vid from when I was attempting to detect why oil usage had increased. You could do so in a more tidy manner: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUP5Lh4tonA

Thank you for the tip and video. There is alot of confusing information on this subject.

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[ROH ECHT]

Thank you for the tip and video. There is alot of confusing information on this subject.

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You're welcome

I'll bet.

If you just understand that you need to allow the crankcase to breath and when it inhales and exhales...keep the lower and upper open to each other...plus how our oem PCV system functions, your engine will remain safe and sealed.

Here's a 2.0t FSI engine pdf that may be useful for this and other topics: https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/golfg...golfengine.pdf

Here's one that covers our 2.0t FSI/BPY and more, and their torque specs: https://blogvager.files.wordpress.co...a3_qsb_web.pdf

[Epic-A3]

You're welcome

I'll bet.

If you just understand that you need to allow the crankcase to breath and when it inhales and exhales...keep the lower and upper open to each other...plus how our oem PCV system functions, your engine will remain safe and sealed.

Here's a 2.0t FSI engine pdf that may be useful for this and other topics: https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/golfg...golfengine.pdf

Here's one that covers our 2.0t FSI/BPY and more, and their torque specs: https://blogvager.files.wordpress.co...a3_qsb_web.pdf

Outstanding, here's 1 in exchange

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