Timing Chain and Tensioner Replacement B7 2.0T

[soje]

I'm at a loss too. I'm kinda thinking out loud here, but I could use help if anyone knows answers. Would a blown head gasket cause such drastic low compression? I check temps by habit, and the temp was normal as always. I know heat isn't the only thing that can kill a head gasket. When a chain skips, is there any physical evidence left behind? Can a chain really stretch? Wouldn't this chain need to have skipped a lot more than one or two teeth to result in such drastic low compression. I could see a really worn out belt skipping, but mine looks good. Does anyone know if I can observe the condition of the valves by removing the intake manifold? The only thing I haven't opened is the adjuster. Should I open the adjuster? Could a bad cam or crank position sensor send a message that makes the pcm crash the timing?

To add to the confusion, I noticed the inner part of the adjuster rotates the tiniest bit. I hope this is normal. I could also see that it could go unnoticed, since it's such a small shift, and requires a little pressure. Anyway, here's my adjuster with the rigged pin. The inside shows where the rings were, but there's absolutely no gouging. I can run my nail over them and it doesn't catch.

First is a video of the inner piece shifting.







I apologize if all these questions are annoying. You guys are helping me a lot and I appreciate it. I'm learning all of this as I go. I have a feeling the car is worth less than what it would cost a mechanic to figure it out. So, I'm doing it on my own. I should probably pull the intake. If I can verify the condition of the valves, it would be worth it. If they'r good, I can clean out any carbon.

[Charles.waite]

I bet the adjuster sheared due to something seizing (or debris getting in the chain or something) then the cams spun out of time. So it’s possible the no compression. Could be due to the cams being mistimed. Or bent valves.

I really don’t think a bad head gasket would result in zero compression across the board without prolonged abuse and running the car on a bad head gasket for a long long time. I don’t think it’s worth pursuing that line of diagnosis.

[i3oricua]

With a bad head gasket you can usually see other symptoms. You can pull the valve cover and look at the lifters and make sure they’re touching both cams at all times. That would help tell if you have bent valves. That’s not a sure proof way to rule them out but it will get closer if they are. See below and see if you can tell when I bent my valves based on what I’m describing. Pulling the head is the only other way. You could also set the engine to TDC based off the crank pulley and cam gear and then check timing at the timing chains sprocket. You may have done this already but I’m too lazy to read through this whole thread.




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[soje]

I've got it at TDC, and have the AST cam locking tool in place. My next move is to put the adjuster and chain back on, then check compression.

I wanted to use the old chain just to see if I can get compression. If it works, I'd buy a new chain. Does anyone know if I can get away with using the old chain?

Thanks i3oricua for the idea of checking the lobe to lifter contact. I haven't thought of that.

[Theiceman]

a word of caution . do not use the tool to set your timing .. count the links.. many use the tool and are off a link.

[soje]

a word of caution . do not use the tool to set your timing .. count the links.. many use the tool and are off a link.

I’ve seen a lot of back-and-forth on this issue. Does AST say you don’t need to count the links, when you use their tool? As far as I understand you’re supposed to use the tool, and count the links. Based on some videos I’ve seen, it appears that you can turn the intake cam just a tiny bit. This allows you the option of 2 teeth to set the link. Tim shows how it’s done in his video, which I think is referenced in this thread.

[i3oricua]

I’ve seen a lot of back-and-forth on this issue. Does AST say you don’t need to count the links, when you use their tool? As far as I understand you’re supposed to use the tool, and count the links. Based on some videos I’ve seen, it appears that you can turn the intake cam just a tiny bit. This allows you the option of 2 teeth to set the link. Tim shows how it’s done in his video, which I think is referenced in this thread.

You should count the links. It’s not hard to do and you can do it while the tool is in place too. At least initially. Counting the links makes sure it’s timed correctly on the intake and exhaust cams.


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[Charles.waite]

The tool doesn’t hold the cam firmly enough to ensure perfect timing. It’s just how the design of it is.

[soje]

The tool doesn’t hold the cam firmly enough to ensure perfect timing. It’s just how the design of it is.

Man, I wish I found this out before I bought the thing. They aren't cheap.

[Charles.waite]

Well it’s still a useful tool. Just not for setting the chain timing dead on without verifying the number of links.

[Theiceman]

I’ve seen a lot of back-and-forth on this issue. Does AST say you don’t need to count the links, when you use their tool? As far as I understand you’re supposed to use the tool, and count the links. Based on some videos I’ve seen, it appears that you can turn the intake cam just a tiny bit. This allows you the option of 2 teeth to set the link. Tim shows how it’s done in his video, which I think is referenced in this thread.

yup absolutely count the links..

"thats all she wrote " thread post 57.

[medrads2020]

yup absolutely count the links..

"thats all she wrote " thread post 57.

Exactly. Steps 48-55 of this DIY outline it to the T.

[P-car guy]

Interesting.

Given I've never really heard a truly healthy 2.0t I wonder what my new engine is going to sound like in comparison to my current one.

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[trancematik]

Apologies for the necro bump but I just had to comment on the torque spec descrepency as I'm doing that step right now.

"57.) Install the exhaust cam sprocket/adjuster bolt and torque it to 15ft/lbs + 1/8 turn (per ELSAWin manual) or 73.5ft/lbs (per Timmy) depending on your preference."

According to my Haynes manual, it's the difference between TURBO and NON-TURBO vehicles! Haynes states 100nm or 74ft lbs for nonturbos and for turbos it's:

Stage 1 - 20nm (15ft lbs)
Stage 2 - angle tighten a further 45°

I figured there might be others out there using this wonderful thread/video as a resource so I hope that helps others as stumped as I was!

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[Theiceman]

Never even heard of the 74ft lbs. Or a non turbo A4 unless you are talking about the V6 and that would be completely out of scope of this job anyway.

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[EvolutionArmory]

Never even heard of the 74ft lbs. Or a non turbo A4 unless you are talking about the V6 and that would be completely out of scope of this job anyway.

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The first FSI motor was a NA 2.0. in the B6 A4. I don’t think we got it anywhere in North America.


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[hammond]

Never even heard of the 74ft lbs. Or a non turbo A4 unless you are talking about the V6 and that would be completely out of scope of this job anyway.

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some people think that its 74 ft-lbs because Timmy from Astral auto repairs(youtube channel) torqued it to 74.5 Ft-lbs. While he was torquing the cam adjuster in video, I was so nervous that it would snap on him. I don't understand why he couldnt use common sense there. The bolt was so tiny and applying 74ft-lbs is like using hammer to drive a staple.

[Theiceman]

some people think that its 74 ft-lbs because Timmy from Astral auto repairs(youtube channel) torqued it to 74.5 Ft-lbs. While he was torquing the cam adjuster in video, I was so nervous that it would snap on him. I don't understand why he couldnt use common sense there. The bolt was so tiny and applying 74ft-lbs is like using hammer to drive a staple.

I'd be curious to know what 15 + 45deg. Comes out to though..torque starts going up fast when the bolt gets hard to turn..

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[Jayz691]

Yeah, there are 2.0 NA's in some countries. Ive seen a few in the FB groups and threw me for a loop at first, lol.

The first FSI motor was a NA 2.0. in the B6 A4. I don’t think we got it anywhere in North America.


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[EvolutionArmory]

One guy here was wondering why he wasn’t getting the correct high pressure fuel from his 2.0T and the reason was because the PO put a NA 2.0 FSI head on it. Oops. Wrong cam profile on the HPFP lobe.


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[Theiceman]

One guy here was wondering why he wasn’t getting the correct high pressure fuel from his 2.0T and the reason was because the PO put a NA 2.0 FSI head on it. Oops. Wrong cam profile on the HPFP lobe.


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thats right i remember that now , we were all WTF is that ??? when he showed the cam. didnt it have an extra lobe or something ?

[EvolutionArmory]

thats right i remember that now , we were all WTF is that ??? when he showed the cam. didnt it have an extra lobe or something ?

No the opposite. It only had 2 instead of 3.


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[Marques1]

Guys, bent my valves and had head cylinder rebuilt. Counted links between camshaft timing marks as per instructions. Car is running rough; multiple cylinder misfires. Any ideas?

[Theiceman]

it's likely wrong . did you check the cam angle of the two lobes on cylinder 4 ? they should be perfectly symmetrical..
often guys say they counted links but they end up counting wrong.. or underneath instead of ier the top.



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[Theiceman]

look.for the thread " that's all she wrote.."

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[arankaspar1]

I just had the CTA tool break on my. Couldn't find the Assen anywhere online. Does anyone have one I can buy or rent?