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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
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    2 pin coolant temp sensors( cold start problem )

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    My car is having some cold start problem after timing belt change and coolant flush. First it had a tiny tiny cold start misfire, and now it takes like 10 second crank every morning.

    Green one behind the head has been changed with new one from autozone 1 year ago.

    When I drained the coolant, I drained from lower CTS.. can that 2 pin CTS also cause for cold start problem? I donít have code for CTS. I just have po303 misfire code in cold start.

    Also even if I leave it alone for 20 minutes or some. It struggles to start. This happening often this few days. And fuel pressure is also good I checked with my gauge.

    I just want to make sure before I order new oem 4 pin or 2 pin sensor.
    https://youtu.be/7CaGfDE2gcU
    Itís not my video but itís similar problem.
    Video from( CHACE NGUYEN)

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    Last edited by wafi ahmed; 05-15-2019 at 06:33 PM.

  2. #2
    Active Member Two Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
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    Any one?


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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    The 2-pin sensor is for fan control. The 4-pin is for temperature gauge and fueling maps.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods plus lots of other fun stuff. Suspension, exhaust, brakes, etc.
    A5 Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs with Bilstein B8's / 20, 25mm spacers / ECS Short shifter / TyrolSport brake stiffeners / Blacked out window trim / 35% tint / RS Grille.

  4. #4
    Active Member Two Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
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    2 pin coolant temp sensors( cold start problem )

    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    The 2-pin sensor is for fan control. The 4-pin is for temperature gauge and fueling maps.
    So the 4 pin one is the important one right?
    Can this cause because only CTS? Or any thing else?
    The maf is changed 2 years ago with Bosch one.
    Temperature gauge looks normal...

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  5. #5
    Active Member Two Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
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    2 pin coolant temp sensors( cold start problem )

    How should I check if itís functioning properly?
    I checked with my ocd 2. And temperature was normal. 90-100 when hot.


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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    When the engine is cold you can check your block temperature (measuring block 130) and your radiator outlet temperature (block 132) along with your intake air temperature (block 006) and they should all read approximately the same. The actual temperature gauge is simply a display and not used by the ECM.

    That's why the rear CTS is a four pin sensor. Essentially two sensors in one body. One signal goes to the dash display and the other signal goes to the ECM.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods plus lots of other fun stuff. Suspension, exhaust, brakes, etc.
    A5 Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs with Bilstein B8's / 20, 25mm spacers / ECS Short shifter / TyrolSport brake stiffeners / Blacked out window trim / 35% tint / RS Grille.

  7. #7
    Active Member Two Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    When the engine is cold you can check your block temperature (measuring block 130) and your radiator outlet temperature (block 132) along with your intake air temperature (block 006) and they should all read approximately the same. The actual temperature gauge is simply a display and not used by the ECM.

    That's why the rear CTS is a four pin sensor. Essentially two sensors in one body. One signal goes to the dash display and the other signal goes to the ECM.

    I am sorry. I should mentioned before, i donít have VCDS. my obd2 is autel 519 or something like that.
    I can only see ECT and inteak air temp.

    When car is cold and if ect and intake air temp is same that means CTS is good?


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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wafi ahmed View Post
    I am sorry. I should mentioned before, i donít have VCDS. my obd2 is autel 519 or something like that.
    I can only see ECT and inteak air temp.

    When car is cold and if ect and intake air temp is same that means CTS is good?


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    As long as you are reading the ECT signal to the ECM compared to the intake air temperature then yes, your CTS should be OK.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods plus lots of other fun stuff. Suspension, exhaust, brakes, etc.
    A5 Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs with Bilstein B8's / 20, 25mm spacers / ECS Short shifter / TyrolSport brake stiffeners / Blacked out window trim / 35% tint / RS Grille.

  9. #9
    Active Member Two Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    As long as you are reading the ECT signal to the ECM compared to the intake air temperature then yes, your CTS should be OK.
    IMG_0829.JPGIMG_0830.JPGIMG_0831.JPG
    This in kew on position after sitting hole night and half day.



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  10. #10
    Active Member Two Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
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    And this is the cold start. IMG_0832.JPGIMG_0833.JPGIMG_0834.JPG
    It took 3 second to start up.


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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Typically mine read within 2įf of each other. Yours are apart by 5įf. I don't think that is enough to be significant. Another possibility is that your fuel pressure isn't holding when you turn the engine off. The fuel pressure regulator is built into the fuel filter. Try this at your next cold start and see if it makes any difference.

    Turn the key to the on position and you should hear the fuel pump prime for about 2 seconds and stop. Turn the key to the off position and take it out of the ignition. wait about 10 seconds and repeat. If the engine then starts up immediately it would be an indication that the regulator is bleeding down excessively and the filter should be replaced.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods plus lots of other fun stuff. Suspension, exhaust, brakes, etc.
    A5 Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs with Bilstein B8's / 20, 25mm spacers / ECS Short shifter / TyrolSport brake stiffeners / Blacked out window trim / 35% tint / RS Grille.

  12. #12
    Active Member Two Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Typically mine read within 2įf of each other. Yours are apart by 5įf. I don't think that is enough to be significant. Another possibility is that your fuel pressure isn't holding when you turn the engine off. The fuel pressure regulator is built into the fuel filter. Try this at your next cold start and see if it makes any difference.

    Turn the key to the on position and you should hear the fuel pump prime for about 2 seconds and stop. Turn the key to the off position and take it out of the ignition. wait about 10 seconds and repeat. If the engine then starts up immediately it would be an indication that the regulator is bleeding down excessively and the filter should be replaced.

    I will try any way but the fuel filter is new one from advance auto. Replaced one years ago.
    I checked the fuel pressure with my fuel gauge few days ago. And I believe itís good. But I will try that any way thank you.


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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    If you have a fuel pressure gauge just check the fuel pressure prior to the cold start and you will have your answer.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods plus lots of other fun stuff. Suspension, exhaust, brakes, etc.
    A5 Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs with Bilstein B8's / 20, 25mm spacers / ECS Short shifter / TyrolSport brake stiffeners / Blacked out window trim / 35% tint / RS Grille.

  14. #14
    Active Member Two Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    If you have a fuel pressure gauge just check the fuel pressure prior to the cold start and you will have your answer.
    Ok. I will do it tomorrow. My car is already warmed up today.
    And I will update


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  15. #15
    Active Member Two Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
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    Yes. Today I first put the kew in start position. Kept for 2 seconds. It started right up!! Dose that mean I need a new filter ?


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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    That would be my recommendation.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods plus lots of other fun stuff. Suspension, exhaust, brakes, etc.
    A5 Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs with Bilstein B8's / 20, 25mm spacers / ECS Short shifter / TyrolSport brake stiffeners / Blacked out window trim / 35% tint / RS Grille.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wafi ahmed View Post
    Yes. Today I first put the kew in start position. Kept for 2 seconds. It started right up!! Dose that mean I need a new filter ?


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    It means you need to stop buying cheap parts. I hate to be that guy but... buy nice or buy twice. I'm sure the CTS that you saved $10 on will give you issues down the road as well. I realize you're trying to save a couple dollars but I guarantee it will end up costing you more money and frustration in the long run. As you can see in this situation... first part you look to for issues is the cheap aftermarket replacement.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  18. #18
    Active Member Two Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
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    2 pin coolant temp sensors( cold start problem )

    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    It means you need to stop buying cheap parts. I hate to be that guy but... buy nice or buy twice. I'm sure the CTS that you saved $10 on will give you issues down the road as well. I realize you're trying to save a couple dollars but I guarantee it will end up costing you more money and frustration in the long run. As you can see in this situation... first part you look to for issues is the cheap aftermarket replacement.
    Yes you are right. I usually buy stuff from ecs. But ecs charge me 10$ or something for shipping. So if the parts is available in local store sometime I just buy from there.

    I am gonna check out dealer if they have the oem fuel filter and CTS. I probably need a coolant flange too. It doesnít leak but I donít want to wait until it leaks.


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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    Just call a local Audi/VW dealer and ask if they'll price match ECS. I've had a couple that were willing to do that. I wouldn't pay full dealer price. There are ways around full price, just have to be able to talk. A lot of guys at the parts counters are cool and willing to help.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  20. #20
    Active Member Two Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    Just call a local Audi/VW dealer and ask if they'll price match ECS. I've had a couple that were willing to do that. I wouldn't pay full dealer price. There are ways around full price, just have to be able to talk. A lot of guys at the parts counters are cool and willing to help.
    Thank you. That helps me a lot because the dealer is far from my home.


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