JHM RS5 B8 TCU Tune - Megathread

[BuyTheWarranty]

Hey gents, I thought I'd start a new thread to keep the TCU tune, information, FAQ, results etc. separate from the STAGE 1/2 JHM RS5 Tune Megathread as people might be interested in just purchasing this. We can also address any issues or feedback here as well!

• For anyone experiencing issues or mechanical problems with their transmissions (especially models before 2014), check out Ape's thread here!

From what I gather, there are very few people (at least on the major forums) who have actually installed a TCU tune (there are a few vendors). It appears this is the key to unlocking the full power of this engine, as well, the car does suffer slightly from slow 1st to 2nd shifts, short shifting 1st to 2nd as well as other performance related issues.

What we know so far:

• TCU Tune works in conjunction with Stage 1 JHM RS5 tune
• Stage 2 (releasing soon) will require the TCU update and we'll be able to upgrade to the Stage 2 for free, if you bought pre-release
• Stage 2 originally was creating too much torque and JHM decided to build out the TCU tune, working on a way to 'trick' the ECU into allowing the additional torque (Stock DSG transmission and clutch plates can handle up to +-600lb ft according to TVS engineering)
• Will include revised launch control modes
• TCU Tune works in conjunction with Stage 1 JHM tune, but you can also install the TCU tune by itself
• JHM is working on a high rev file which will increase the RPMs from 8250 to 8750 (not sure if this is ECU or TCU)
• Regarding the install, a Battery Tender/charger over/around 40 amps is required (30 amps should suffice). The key is to not allow the battery to drop below 12volts.
• A windows laptop with ETHERNET is required to login to the VPN (wireless connects 50% of the time but will only stay connected to the VPN for a few minutes and the JHM browser won't load properly on WIFI)
• TCU tune will be installed via the Cheetah cable previously used for ECU tune
• Pops & crackles tune also being worked on (I believe this is flashed through the ECU)

[rnp614]

Has anyone had success with these tunes using wifi? Running a 100 foot cable to my garage sounds like awfulness.

[BuyTheWarranty]

You can buy a wifi extender for like 30-40 bucks that has an ethernet port on the bottom with Cat5/6. You just need the 'stable' connection ethernet provides and it allowed me to flash the JHM several times with no issues.

[ENV²]

Raising the rev limited to closer to 9k is epic. If you can make that work without it breaking these engines (read:safe). I bet you'll sell tons. But dont sacrifice engine health.

Sent from a misfiring cylinder

[Sftuner]

Hi Jake do you have an approximate time frame on when the stage 2 along with the TCU tune will be available? At what stage of testing are you currently on? Thank you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Yoda1]

A local rs5 guy was hesitating to chip his car because of the little gains of 6/7 HP. Now this is somewhat related because the JHM ECU tune (stage 1) is needed before the TCU tune right?! My question, instead of sending someone to comb through the ECU mega thread, does/can anyone recall the measured gains from the JHM ECU? Thanks. Hope I’m not diluting this thread.

[AsherAudi]

A local rs5 guy was hesitating to chip his car because of the little gains of 6/7 HP. Now this is somewhat related because the JHM ECU tune (stage 1) is needed before the TCU tune right?! My question, instead of sending someone to comb through the ECU mega thread, does/can anyone recall the measured gains from the JHM ECU? Thanks. Hope I’m not diluting this thread.

I think its like 15-20hp gains at different parts of the rev band - I believe the stage 2 + tcu will be more like a legit 40-50hp though (total, not in addition to stage 1)

[BuyTheWarranty]

A local rs5 guy was hesitating to chip his car because of the little gains of 6/7 HP. Now this is somewhat related because the JHM ECU tune (stage 1) is needed before the TCU tune right?! My question, instead of sending someone to comb through the ECU mega thread, does/can anyone recall the measured gains from the JHM ECU? Thanks. Hope I’m not diluting this thread.

Stage 1, 25-30 proven, dynoed hp gain at peak, and a solid 20ish gain throughout the rev range. Torque seems to be about a 30lb gain.

1/4 times vary, but on average people are seeing a 0.2 to 0.7 second reduction and 2-6mph gain in trap speed.

[Yoda1]

Stage 1, 25-30 proven, dynoed hp gain at peak, and a solid 20ish gain throughout the rev range. Torque seems to be about a 30lb gain.

1/4 times vary, but on average people are seeing a 0.2 to 0.7 second reduction and 2-6mph gain in trap speed.

Awesome, Thanks. I’ll let him know.

[Ape Factory]

A local rs5 guy was hesitating to chip his car because of the little gains of 6/7 HP. Now this is somewhat related because the JHM ECU tune (stage 1) is needed before the TCU tune right?! My question, instead of sending someone to comb through the ECU mega thread, does/can anyone recall the measured gains from the JHM ECU? Thanks. Hope I’m not diluting this thread.

I made 25 wheel hp on the dyno on a 90+ degree day with their stage 1 tune. It does, without a doubt, make usable hp. I'm sure he's referring to the old APR tune. Stage 2 will release more hp and hopefully we get an E85 tune as well. The "gains" from the TCU tune, with more efficient shifting, will probably be very noticeable.

[midam96]

I’m curious on where you will find the available torque in the 4.2 NA. I’ve not seen any tune that would bump it by more than 30-50 lbs max. That should be well within existing tolerance of Rs5 as it came from factory.

[Ape Factory]

I've had no luck finding an updated dyno in my neck of the woods. Even the one I drove out to in Austin is suspect at best. There was a new one that was supposed to open up south of Fredericksburg but the last time I shot him an email to see if they were open yet, zero response. And he was very chatty initially. I need to go back to the dyno and do a post-carbon run though. Maybe this week or next.

[Jake@JHM]

Hey gents, I thought I'd start a new thread to keep the TCU tune, information, FAQ, results etc. separate from the STAGE 1/2 JHM RS5 Tune Megathread as people might be interested in just purchasing this. We can also address any issues or feedback here as well!

• For anyone experiencing issues or mechanical problems with their transmissions (especially models before 2014), check out Ape's thread here!

From what I gather, there are very few people (at least on the major forums) who have actually installed a TCU tune (there are a few vendors). It appears this is the key to unlocking the full power of this engine, as well, the car does suffer slightly from slow 1st to 2nd shifts, short shifting 1st to 2nd as well as other performance related issues.

What we know so far:

• TCU Tune works in conjunction with Stage 1 JHM RS5 tune
• Stage 2 (releasing soon) will require the TCU update and we'll be able to upgrade to the Stage 2 for free, if you bought pre-release
• Stage 2 originally was creating too much torque and JHM decided to build out the TCU tune, working on a way to 'trick' the ECU into allowing the additional torque (Stock DSG transmission and clutch plates can handle up to +-600lb ft according to TVS engineering)
• Will include revised launch control modes
• TCU Tune works in conjunction with Stage 1 JHM tune, but you can also install the TCU tune by itself
• JHM is working on a high rev file which will increase the RPMs from 8250 to 8750 (not sure if this is ECU or TCU)
• Regarding the install, a Battery Tender/charger over/around 40 amps is required (30 amps should suffice). The key is to not allow the battery to drop below 12volts.
• A windows laptop with ETHERNET is required to login to the VPN (wireless connects 50% of the time but will only stay connected to the VPN for a few minutes and the JHM browser won't load properly on WIFI)
• TCU tune will be installed via the Cheetah cable previously used for ECU tune
• Pops & crackles tune also being worked on (I believe this is flashed through the ECU)

1) YES
2) Not just early adopters, free for anyone with our stage 1 software.
3) Essentially, yes.
4) Not finalized, but we are doing what we can to make it launch the best it can every time.
5) YES
6) High Rev has been in play for quite a while and looks to be successful. Likely be standard for Stage 2.
7)YES
8) You can use ethernet, or wifi. Depends if you like to live life dangerously or not. With the new TCU Server, VPN and Server login is the same unit, so you will not have to login separately. Just one login and done.
9) We are WORKING on a way to make the Cheetah Cable usable. If not we will have to offer another cable unfortunately. Will be announced when finalized.
10) Yes, but we will still need to determine if we want it on the market. It sounds fancy, but its not exactly a good thing.

[AsherAudi]

6) High Rev has been in play for quite a while and looks to be successful. Likely be standard for Stage 2.

YESSSSS!!!!!!!

[BuyTheWarranty]

Posted this in the DL501 thread, but thought this would be a good place as well:

Has anyone experienced inconsistencies in shift times from 1st to 2nd when using paddles?

I took my car out after the winter, and lately the shifts have been lightning quick. Only difference was changing out stock air filters for high flow and perhaps lower ambient temps with good DA. I took some videos and you can hear how much faster the shift is, so much so, that I’m chirping the tires going into 2nd gear.

I’m not sure if it’s just me shifting at the exact right time, as it’s about to bounce off rev limiter or what, but it pulls so much harder when the shift is bang into 2nd (literally snaps my head back) on and I don’t know why there’s a variance. Perhaps there’s a sweet spot on shifting at 8200 vs 8000 or maybe I lost traction so I had a bit of wheel spin = more power?

Regular shift: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3gK8gQhiJ4
Insanely quick shift: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U53wR1EbUfw

Both videos I was doing a first gear, car in Dynamic/Manual and ESC set to sport. I let off the throttle in the 2nd video as I was surprised how fast the shift was and I was going ... above the speed limit.

[altobeast]

1) YES
2) Not just early adopters, free for anyone with our stage 1 software.
3) Essentially, yes.
4) Not finalized, but we are doing what we can to make it launch the best it can every time.
5) YES
6) High Rev has been in play for quite a while and looks to be successful. Likely be standard for Stage 2.
7)YES
8) You can use ethernet, or wifi. Depends if you like to live life dangerously or not. With the new TCU Server, VPN and Server login is the same unit, so you will not have to login separately. Just one login and done.
9) We are WORKING on a way to make the Cheetah Cable usable. If not we will have to offer another cable unfortunately. Will be announced when finalized.
10) Yes, but we will still need to determine if we want it on the market. It sounds fancy, but its not exactly a good thing.

10: Vap says it increases cat cooling, would you disagree from your findings? I can see how it could be both beneficial and detrimental, longevity wise.

[AsherAudi]

Posted this in the DL501 thread, but thought this would be a good place as well:

Has anyone experienced inconsistencies in shift times from 1st to 2nd when using paddles?

I took my car out after the winter, and lately the shifts have been lightning quick. Only difference was changing out stock air filters for high flow and perhaps lower ambient temps with good DA. I took some videos and you can hear how much faster the shift is, so much so, that I’m chirping the tires going into 2nd gear.

I’m not sure if it’s just me shifting at the exact right time, as it’s about to bounce off rev limiter or what, but it pulls so much harder when the shift is bang into 2nd (literally snaps my head back) on and I don’t know why there’s a variance. Perhaps there’s a sweet spot on shifting at 8200 vs 8000 or maybe I lost traction so I had a bit of wheel spin = more power?

Regular shift: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3gK8gQhiJ4
Insanely quick shift: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U53wR1EbUfw

Both videos I was doing a first gear, car in Dynamic/Manual and ESC set to sport. I let off the throttle in the 2nd video as I was surprised how fast the shift was and I was going ... above the speed limit.

I get huge inconsistencies - most of which come down to perfect timing the shift. If you do it JUST right, you get a "surge" into 2nd that you don't otherwise get. The surge is similar to the one you get when you use launch control as my LC gets me to chirp 2nd and almost 3rd whereas w/o LC, it's significantly slower.

In addition, I've found the Paddles shift faster than using the actual console gear shifter yet still I have issues with the paddles themselves not always responding in a timely manner. Thank god the car has a built-in rev limiter as I would've already over-revved it countless times as a result. Sometimes Im literally sitting and just waiting for it to shift into 2nd and thinking "why does everyone praise this tranny as being so amazing" - it IS amazing 95% of the time but I'm pretty sure the Porsche PDK is amazing 99-100% of the time. I have zero complaints about our DSG apart from the 1-2 shift issue but that's a pretty important shift to get right with a high-rev/low-torque car like ours.

[BuyTheWarranty]

If you do it JUST right, you get a "surge" into 2nd that you don't otherwise get. The surge is similar to the one you get when you use launch control as my LC gets me to chirp 2nd and almost 3rd whereas w/o LC, it's significantly slower.

100%! In the 2nd video, that's exactly what happened (that's a good explanation). The power difference is noticeable.

Sometimes Im literally sitting and just waiting for it to shift into 2nd and thinking "why does everyone praise this tranny as being so amazing" - it IS amazing 95% of the time but I'm pretty sure the Porsche PDK is amazing 99-100% of the time. I have zero complaints about our DSG apart from the 1-2 shift issue but that's a pretty important shift to get right with a high-rev/low-torque car like ours.

Agreed again. The shifts CAN be lightning fast, however there seems to be a variance and the 1st to 2nd is hit or miss. I'm hoping the TCU update safely addresses this. I'm also running Audi's most recent TCU software as I'm on 2015 and they checked and said I was on the latest version.

[chrissurfr]

Posted this in the DL501 thread, but thought this would be a good place as well:

Has anyone experienced inconsistencies in shift times from 1st to 2nd when using paddles?

I took my car out after the winter, and lately the shifts have been lightning quick. Only difference was changing out stock air filters for high flow and perhaps lower ambient temps with good DA. I took some videos and you can hear how much faster the shift is, so much so, that I’m chirping the tires going into 2nd gear.

I’m not sure if it’s just me shifting at the exact right time, as it’s about to bounce off rev limiter or what, but it pulls so much harder when the shift is bang into 2nd (literally snaps my head back) on and I don’t know why there’s a variance. Perhaps there’s a sweet spot on shifting at 8200 vs 8000 or maybe I lost traction so I had a bit of wheel spin = more power?

Regular shift: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3gK8gQhiJ4
Insanely quick shift: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U53wR1EbUfw

Both videos I was doing a first gear, car in Dynamic/Manual and ESC set to sport. I let off the throttle in the 2nd video as I was surprised how fast the shift was and I was going ... above the speed limit.

I have the exact same....1 bounce on rev limiter and I jumps super hard.....

[Jake@JHM]

10: Vap says it increases cat cooling, would you disagree from your findings? I can see how it could be both beneficial and detrimental, longevity wise.

It does cool that cat. For a moment. Then the fuel ignites (pops and bangs) and thus more harmful than beneficial.

[BuyTheWarranty]

Jake, re: the videos above (your exhaust sounds wicked BTW) any improvements in the 1st to 2nd shift with the TCU software? As discussed, when it nails the shift, it's incredibly satisfying and the surge into 2nd gear throws you back in your seat.

[Jake@JHM]

Jake, re: the videos above (your exhaust sounds wicked BTW) any improvements in the 1st to 2nd shift with the TCU software? As discussed, when it nails the shift, it's incredibly satisfying and the surge into 2nd gear throws you back in your seat.

Yep!

[Loe]

the "surge" in power on the 1-2 or 2-3 upshift is what Audi calls AMAX upshift, its ideal for maximum acceleration and can be seen as a spike in G forces on a dragy device. It's good for a few tenths down the 1/4 mile, and a few tenths in MPH, and can only be unlocked id you utilize any form of LC (at least that's how it's like on the 3.0t DSG). Ideally, if you remove the 200 LC factory limit, you'd be golden and always have AMAX available.

BTW, this transmission according to TVS engineering in the UK (masters of the DSG as they repair these in-house), is 1000NM @ 10,000rpm. Not sure if the engine can do that, but the DSG DL501 is a strong transmission as I'm no where near kissing the limits of it even on my 'charged 3.0t. FWIW, my launch control counter is above 1,000 LC launches

[BuyTheWarranty]

I’ve never heard that term before, thanks for sharing. In the video, I hadn’t used launch control, so not sure why it worked. Do you have the TVS tune?

There seems to be speculation that Audi detuned the transmission and engine for emissions, but it might also be a marketing thing. Eg, JHM is running close to stock V10 R8 numbers, why pay the extra 50k for the R8...

[Jake@JHM]

AMAX is a term used quite frequently on this forum, I'm surprised you are just now hearing of it. But yes, that is why LC must be engaged in order to get a good 1/4 time otherwise you are leaving a lot on the table.

[altobeast]

It does cool that cat. For a moment. Then the fuel ignites (pops and bangs) and thus more harmful than beneficial.

Ah I thought that the expulsion of gas caused the cooling, not the fuel itself dumping onto them. I would enjoy it, but also would be TD1'd at that point, so wouldn't want that major of a powertrain issue.

Thanks!

[Ape Factory]

If you understand the origin of pops and crackles as coming from anti-lag mechanisms on low displacement rally cars with big turbos and no catalytic converters, you see it's sort of like putting a Type R badge on your Civic ES. The RS5 doesn't have turbos and it isn't a small displacement engine (relatively!). Plus, as Jake said, it can destroy your cats. Melted cats can, worst case, lead to a blown motor. We already have a bit of pop/crackle going on thanks to the speed of the gearbox and some fuel/combustion escaping on shifts and reverberating through the exhaust. But there can be too much of a good thing when you're not moving enough air to keep things cooled down.

EGT's on our cars reach 850 degrees Celsius. Definitely hot enough to ignite vaporized gas. Our cold start routine injects fuel out of phase to raise EGT's quickly and get the cats hot for emissions purposes. But it does this for a very short period of time when the car is cold. I would think, on turbocharged Audis, it's probably igniting in the exhaust manifold or in the turbine housing before it gets to the cats when the car is up to temp and the excess fuel may be cooling the exhaust valves. You can still overdo it though. Admittedly it sounds somewhat cool but it may not be good for your car's long-term health.

[rnp614]

Definitely not for pops and crackles. Safety and performance above all else please!

[Jake@JHM]

If you understand the origin of pops and crackles as coming from anti-lag mechanisms on low displacement rally cars with big turbos and no catalytic converters, you see it's sort of like putting a Type R badge on your Civic ES. The RS5 doesn't have turbos and it isn't a small displacement engine (relatively!). Plus, as Jake said, it can destroy your cats. Melted cats can, worst case, lead to a blown motor. We already have a bit of pop/crackle going on thanks to the speed of the gearbox and some fuel/combustion escaping on shifts and reverberating through the exhaust. But there can be too much of a good thing when you're not moving enough air to keep things cooled down.

EGT's on our cars reach 850 degrees Celsius. Definitely hot enough to ignite vaporized gas. Our cold start routine injects fuel out of phase to raise EGT's quickly and get the cats hot for emissions purposes. But it does this for a very short period of time when the car is cold. I would think, on turbocharged Audis, it's probably igniting in the exhaust manifold or in the turbine housing before it gets to the cats when the car is up to temp and the excess fuel may be cooling the exhaust valves. You can still overdo it though. Admittedly it sounds somewhat cool but it may not be good for your car's long-term health.

Rally cars with true anti-lag also have to rebuild their turbos more often due to the ignition at the turbine (builds the boost needed for launching) as the explosions damage the turbine wheel etc.. so you can imagine what it can do to the very thing honeycomb of a catalyst in the car. Once the honeycomb starts to alter its shape from the explosions it causes more restriction, which creates less power and more heat and the inevitable demise of the catalyst.

[Beast]

It does cool that cat. For a moment. Then the fuel ignites (pops and bangs) and thus more harmful than beneficial.

Incorrect. If you are igniting the fuel on cats, then that means you do not fully understand/ know how most OEM manufactures create the pop and bang effect.

Do you know what is the difference between a controlled misfire vs an uncontrolled misfire?

[Ape Factory]

In all fairness, and in the interest of a friendly discussion, a misfire is a misfire. Sort of like asking if you know the difference between a crash landing and a controlled crash landing. I understand why you're phrasing it that way but it's not really a true misfire. You're basically timing so the fuel ignites outside the combustion chamber. A misfire happens in the combustion chamber at a less than optimal moment in the piston's travel aka before the ignition calibration would like it to happen or when it doesn't occur at all and fuel isn't ignited by spark and escapes out the exhaust.

Pops and crackles are simply created by cycling the injectors out of the desired window in the ignition phase so technically it's not a misfire as it was never designed to be lit by the spark plug. The fuel races out the exhaust port and ignites on the hot exhaust forcing shockwaves down the exhaust path instead of being ignited, in the combustion chamber, by spark. Misfire denotes lack of control where this is a designed event. There's no real reason to do that on a naturally-aspirated motor other than it sounds cool (and I think it does sound cool). But it does raise EGT's and cannot be good long-term for the cats, especially if you overdo it. It's exactly the same methodology behind the cold-start cycle and bringing the cats up to temperature quickly.

I can guarantee not all of the fuel is burned prior to the mixture reaching the catalytic converters. The exhaust pulses are moving at hundreds of feet per second and some of that fuel and not fully consumed hydrocarbons make their way to the cat where long term, will start to ruin the cat it'll most likely shorten their life. How much is too much? Dunno...would take some long-term testing and factory knowledge to determine that. People talk about "lean misfire" which is just a way to describe injecting what they think is a safe amount of unburned fuel at the precise moment it can escape out of the combustion chamber and not cause reversion issues.

[Jake@JHM]

Incorrect. If you are igniting the fuel on cats, then that means you do not fully understand/ know how most OEM manufactures create the pop and bang effect.

Do you know what is the difference between a controlled misfire vs an uncontrolled misfire?

Interesting.. So you think the ignition of unspent fuel is being contained to the roughly 2.5 feet of exhaust pipe, before the catalyst? At the rate/speed that it's happening at that this fuel and explosion(s) isn't reaching the catalyst? How do you suppose the catalyst gets "cooled" by the pops and bangs as you have mentioned previously?

Perhaps there is a reason why companies like APR only offer their pop/bang software for stage 2 vehicles (OEM Catalyst removed).

I do. Do you?

In all fairness, and in the interest of a friendly discussion, a misfire is a misfire. Sort of like asking if you know the difference between a crash landing and a controlled crash landing. I understand why you're phrasing it that way but it's not really a true misfire. You're basically timing so the fuel ignites outside the combustion chamber. A misfire happens in the combustion chamber at a less than optimal moment in the piston's travel aka before the ignition calibration would like it to happen or when it doesn't occur at all and fuel isn't ignited by spark and escapes out the exhaust.

Pops and crackles are simply created by cycling the injectors out of the desired window in the ignition phase so technically it's not a misfire as it was never designed to be lit by the spark plug. The fuel races out the exhaust port and ignites on the hot exhaust forcing shockwaves down the exhaust path instead of being ignited, in the combustion chamber, by spark. Misfire denotes lack of control where this is a designed event. There's no real reason to do that on a naturally-aspirated motor other than it sounds cool (and I think it does sound cool). But it does raise EGT's and cannot be good long-term for the cats, especially if you overdo it. It's exactly the same methodology behind the cold-start cycle and bringing the cats up to temperature quickly.

I can guarantee not all of the fuel is burned prior to the mixture reaching the catalytic converters. The exhaust pulses are moving at hundreds of feet per second and some of that fuel and not fully consumed hydrocarbons make their way to the cat where long term, will start to ruin the cat it'll most likely shorten their life. How much is too much? Dunno...would take some long-term testing and factory knowledge to determine that. People talk about "lean misfire" which is just a way to describe injecting what they think is a safe amount of unburned fuel at the precise moment it can escape out of the combustion chamber and not cause reversion issues.

Ding ding ding [BOLD]

[altobeast]

If you understand the origin of pops and crackles as coming from anti-lag mechanisms on low displacement rally cars with big turbos and no catalytic converters, you see it's sort of like putting a Type R badge on your Civic ES. The RS5 doesn't have turbos and it isn't a small displacement engine (relatively!). Plus, as Jake said, it can destroy your cats. Melted cats can, worst case, lead to a blown motor. We already have a bit of pop/crackle going on thanks to the speed of the gearbox and some fuel/combustion escaping on shifts and reverberating through the exhaust. But there can be too much of a good thing when you're not moving enough air to keep things cooled down.

EGT's on our cars reach 850 degrees Celsius. Definitely hot enough to ignite vaporized gas. Our cold start routine injects fuel out of phase to raise EGT's quickly and get the cats hot for emissions purposes. But it does this for a very short period of time when the car is cold. I would think, on turbocharged Audis, it's probably igniting in the exhaust manifold or in the turbine housing before it gets to the cats when the car is up to temp and the excess fuel may be cooling the exhaust valves. You can still overdo it though. Admittedly it sounds somewhat cool but it may not be good for your car's long-term health.

So I just got a new exhaust and am very happy with the pops and crackles (installed sunday but was in shop 55k mileage service until this morning). I didn't notice them before but on overrun/letting off the gas it sounds great, and don't need any additional sound from it.

[BuyTheWarranty]

Jake will the Stage 2 TCU tune by default have the 8750 red-line or is that optional?

[Jake@JHM]

Jake will the Stage 2 TCU tune by default have the 8750 red-line or is that optional?

TCU tune is TCU tune. Stage 2 is ECU and as of now we are looking at the higher redline being default

[Loe]

I need to hear this at 8750rpm with an x-pipe mod, GOLDEN!

[BuyTheWarranty]

I need to hear this at 8750rpm with an x-pipe mod, GOLDEN!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BppNbQmn-eQ/?hl=en

😬

[AsherAudi]

the "surge" in power on the 1-2 or 2-3 upshift is what Audi calls AMAX upshift, its ideal for maximum acceleration and can be seen as a spike in G forces on a dragy device. It's good for a few tenths down the 1/4 mile, and a few tenths in MPH, and can only be unlocked id you utilize any form of LC (at least that's how it's like on the 3.0t DSG). Ideally, if you remove the 200 LC factory limit, you'd be golden and always have AMAX available.

BTW, this transmission according to TVS engineering in the UK (masters of the DSG as they repair these in-house), is 1000NM @ 10,000rpm. Not sure if the engine can do that, but the DSG DL501 is a strong transmission as I'm no where near kissing the limits of it even on my 'charged 3.0t. FWIW, my launch control counter is above 1,000 LC launches

I've been paying extra attention to hitting the 1-2 shift perfectly lately to get the "AMAX" shift and the difference is huge. It feels exactly like my friend's E92 M3 when he shifts from 1-2 as his car is a true manual and always gets that surge. I know Jake says they're working unlocking that type of shift with their TCU tune and think the parameters should be something like:
A + B = AMAX shift triggered where:
A = Throttle is floored
B = Shift occurs > 8000rpm

This would allow you to get the AMAX shift more often i.e.:
1. Any time you're in Manual shift mode, flooring it to NEAR the top of the gear, vs being exactly AT redline. That way you don't have to perfectly time the shift in Manual mode the way you do now. By raising redline to 8750rpm on the Stage 2 ECU and making AMAX shift occur anywhere above 8000rpm, it gives you a much wider range to get that extra boost and critical few tenths.
2. Any time you're in Sport auto shift mode, and flooring it through the next gear. Currently you only get AMAX shifts in Sport mode when using Launch Control. Yet why call it "Sport" if you're getting shafted out of a perfect shift?

I suppose it comes down to whether the AMAX really has any negative wear and tear on the drivetrain etc. I drive mostly in Manual mode and I'm always trying to time it perfectly to get the AMAX shift and admittedly miss it often to where I bounce off the rev limiter. And even though the rev limiter protects the engine, the drivetrain itself feels like it takes a beating when I miss the shift so basically what I'm saying is that even if AMAX shifts cause some drivetrain wear, it's probably less than I'm creating currently by trying to time it perfectly and miss it - therefore having the AMAX enabled more easily is probably the lesser of two evils. Looking forward to JHM hopefully implementing this...

[Leavinu]

Definitely not for pops and crackles. Safety and performance above all else please!

Ditto. I'm not a fan of this sound from such a sexy car. If this is part of the JHM tune, please let it be an 'option' as I'd not purchase the tune if it was standard.

JHM Tune and GMG sways are next on the mods list; maybe springs but that's still TBD.

[devgil]

Thanks for all the info from all the gear heads ( respect ) techies etc. I may drive the RS5 2015 owned it since 2016 but am at zero 0n mechanical or barely know how. My question is will the TCU or ECU upgrade void any warranty issues I may have. Its a CPO and I have another 70K or 4 more years on it. Any info will help. I wouls love to upgrade however not at the expense of warranty.