My C5 RS6 Manual Swap Build!

[jolio1994]

Picked up my C5 RS6 on January 1, 2019 of this year from Georgia and drive it back to New Jersey a few days later. I put about 1500 miles on it before I decided I'd had enough of the leaking oil and coolant.

Not a single hiccup on the 1000 journey from Georgia to New Jersey
20190106_155550 by Joel Francisco


Once I parked it I figured if it's going to be outside for a while, it would be a good time to wash it, clay bar, and ceramic coat it. Which I did and damn did it come out nice haha. Look ma! No rust!!
20190105_234157 by Joel Francisco
20190118_095537 by Joel Francisco
20190122_142136 by Joel Francisco


So, made a fairly large order and took a weekend to take the engine and transmission out. What a pain! I did the full timing belt kit as well as the valve cover, cam chain tensioner, and cam plug seals (to get rid of the oil leak). I still have to replace the coolant pipe inside the oil cooler (for the coolant leak), the previous owner gave me the new metal "Bufkin Pipe" but I still had to order the new o rings and a few of the M10x65 bolts holding it on. Aside from that she's ready to go back in.
20190125_145321 by Joel Francisco
20190125_150425 by Joel Francisco
20190126_194409 by Joel Francisco
20190128_200731 by Joel Francisco
20190203_220730 by Joel Francisco
20190210_180304 by Joel Francisco
20190215_162213 by Joel Francisco


Well, not really...

I figured since I was doing so much preventative maintenance, now's probably a good time to eliminate the Achilles Heal of the RS6, the slushbox. I drove up to Staten Island, picked up a decent 2.7t 6sp A6 and drove it home (about 90 miles) last week and it's now currently in pieces haha.
VideoCapture_20190219-104547 by Joel Francisco
20190222_161627 by Joel Francisco

With the engine and transmission out of both the A6 and RS6, I guess what's left is to separate the transmissions from either car (did that last night on the 2.7t) and then wait for my Spec Stage 3+ Clutch / Pressure Plate AND the Steveken Adapter Plate kit to come in, hopefully in about 2 weeks time. I didn't mean for this to turn into a build, but that "while it's out" mentality really took a toll on the wallet haha. Oh well. Anybody in the market for anything off a C5 A6, including the 2.7t with 131,xxx?
20190224_174112 by Joel Francisco

I am documenting everything so with that, if you want some possibly slightly entertaining videos to watch while on the toilet at work, I have you covered.

[JorisRS6]

Lots of respect for you dude. Ive done somewhat similar work. However i kept the autobox. Swapping a manual was a little too much for me.
Ive seen your progress also on IG as it pops up everytime.
Very good work. Keep us updated!!


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[2.ohhh]

Looks like an amazing project! Was thinking the same with my '03 2.7t 6spd and hooking up with an RS6 to donate the manual trans to....probably too much for me to take on at the moment...

Might be interested in that 2.7t though! Any chance it's available and a BEL motor? PM me if interested to get rid of it...mine has 199k, so a spare may be handy!

Eric

[jolio1994]

JorisRS6, I've been through your thread quite a few times! I mean, it's impressive that you built your own shed JUST to work on it haha. Not something I think I could do!

2.ohhh, It's a fairly large project, but I think I'm halfway there! Hoping to document it as best as possible to help out people down the road. Also, you have a PM!

<- I am not doing this with the RS6 right now and it's got me

[JorisRS6]

JorisRS6, I've been through your thread quite a few times! I mean, it's impressive that you built your own shed JUST to work on it haha. Not something I think I could do!

2.ohhh, It's a fairly large project, but I think I'm halfway there! Hoping to document it as best as possible to help out people down the road. Also, you have a PM!

<- I am not doing this with the RS6 right now and it's got me

Haha thanks. Building that shed was long in the back off my head. But i just never got to it untill i really needed it for the rs6. Are you rebuilding the turbos as well since youre going that far?
Gutting the cats? Removing aux coolers and SAI?
One of the things that i enjoyed most was just to clean everything and remove all old oil residue. I used many bottles of engine cleaner, stuff works pretty well


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[jolio1994]

Haha thanks. Building that shed was long in the back off my head. But i just never got to it untill i really needed it for the rs6. Are you rebuilding the turbos as well since youre going that far?
Gutting the cats? Removing aux coolers and SAI?
One of the things that i enjoyed most was just to clean everything and remove all old oil residue. I used many bottles of engine cleaner, stuff works pretty well


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So as of now the cats (pre and main) are being gutted, turbos I'll leave. Theres no shaft play and even if they do go it's a simple engine pull away (lol). How hard is it to remove the aux radiators? Being in NJ, I'm not sure just how necessary they are. Trying to keep everything as stock as possible, but we shall see.

[mr_dave]

Dude... great timing as I hope to tackle my own 01E swap soon. I should have all the parts I need, now if I could just find the time (and motivation)!

Not sure if you chose a clutch yet but I went with a Ringer Racing stage 4. Here's a recent thread on rs6.com: http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/33...ations-for-RS6 and http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32...-Clutch-review

Also, what are you planning on doing for the software?

[jolio1994]

Dude... great timing as I hope to tackle my own 01E swap soon. I should have all the parts I need, now if I could just find the time (and motivation)!

Not sure if you chose a clutch yet but I went with a Ringer Racing stage 4. Here's a recent thread on rs6.com: http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/33...ations-for-RS6 and http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32...-Clutch-review

Also, what are you planning on doing for the software?

I chose to go with the Spec Stage 3+ as it was only $850 and can hold 689 ft-lbs!!.

I'll be sure to give your thread a read when I get off work, I always enjoy proper reading.

Blake Beadle in California does all my Audi tuning and has assured me he can do the RS6, as he has done a few manual tunes for them in the past! Hes also the person I went with when I tried to go Stage 1.

[mr_dave]

Sounds good, I'm always interested to hear about other tunes. If you're interested in another option, here's who I plan on using: http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/33...une-by-nubcake

[8520]

What did it take to get that engine out of the car using only a hoist?

I was under the impression that subframe had to be dropped to pull the engine and your pictures show brakes intact etc.

I’m selling one rs6 and will be parting another to build an rs6 avant. This thread has my interest.

[jolio1994]

What did it take to get that engine out of the car using only a hoist?

I was under the impression that subframe had to be dropped to pull the engine and your pictures show brakes intact etc.

I’m selling one rs6 and will be parting another to build an rs6 avant. This thread has my interest.

Very simple. Much like a B5 S4 in a nutshell.

-Take off entire front end.
-Disconnect Driveshaft, Remove front CV axles (you must disconnect both upper control arms, after that they can slide right out.
-Disconnect harness and grounds from chassis.
-All other hoses, coolant, oil, intercooler.
-Trans and Engine mounts, linkage for trans.
-Loosen Subframe and wedge 2x4 block to lower it.

Should come right out after that. The service manual I have specifically stated to remove the engine with a hoist and out the front. Not lower the subframe onto a table like they say. Very weird, but it worked.

[JorisRS6]

Very simple. Much like a B5 S4 in a nutshell.

-Take off entire front end.
-Disconnect Driveshaft, Remove front CV axles (you must disconnect both upper control arms, after that they can slide right out.
-Disconnect harness and grounds from chassis.
-All other hoses, coolant, oil, intercooler.
-Trans and Engine mounts, linkage for trans.
-Loosen Subframe and wedge 2x4 block to lower it.

Should come right out after that. The service manual I have specifically stated to remove the engine with a hoist and out the front. Not lower the subframe onto a table like they say. Very weird, but it worked.

Thats exactly how i did it too. Quite easy.
Removing the secondary radiators removes a LOT of plumbing under the hood. Its for hot climates, in europe they dont even have them i believe. You wont notice a difference without them


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[jolio1994]

Thats exactly how i did it too. Quite easy.
Removing the secondary radiators removes a LOT of plumbing under the hood. Its for hot climates, in europe they dont even have them i believe. You wont notice a difference without them


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Is there a write-up on how to properly delete them? I'm going to try and do some heat management with gold insulator under the hood so this might be a thing.

[JorisRS6]

Somewhere in my build thread there is a picture off all the parts that you delete. Then you block off the very first line, which is under the coolant tank. And the very last line which is a steel pipe going into a large coolant pipe. The last one i welded shut


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[8520]

Very simple. Much like a B5 S4 in a nutshell.

-Take off entire front end.
-Disconnect Driveshaft, Remove front CV axles (you must disconnect both upper control arms, after that they can slide right out.
-Disconnect harness and grounds from chassis.
-All other hoses, coolant, oil, intercooler.
-Trans and Engine mounts, linkage for trans.
-Loosen Subframe and wedge 2x4 block to lower it.

Should come right out after that. The service manual I have specifically stated to remove the engine with a hoist and out the front. Not lower the subframe onto a table like they say. Very weird, but it worked.

Did you loosen all of the subframe bolts? Where did you wedge the 2x4

[JorisRS6]

Did you loosen all of the subframe bolts? Where did you wedge the 2x4

You loosen only the 2 towards the rear. Just behind the transmission mounts. And put those blocks between the subframe and the body
You should download the service manual. It covers the whole engine pull step by step.
Search for site:rs6.com service manual


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[8520]

You loosen only the 2 towards the rear. Just behind the transmission mounts. And put those blocks between the subframe and the body
You should download the service manual. It covers the whole engine pull step by step.
Search for site:rs6.com service manual


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I need to try to get access to that website. Tried to register before and never got in.

[JorisRS6]

I need to try to get access to that website. Tried to register before and never got in.

Otherwise just pm me. Ive got copies of it and can scan them and email them to ya.
Sorry OP for hijacking your thread now


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[jolio1994]

No hijacking here my friend, post was designed to help others out, so I thank you haha.

Small progress today, but I'm loving it. Timelapse will also be in the next video lmao.

20190224_154222 by Joel Francisco
20190224_154215 by Joel Francisco
20190226_171741 by Joel Francisco
20190226_171812 by Joel Francisco

[j0wE]

Awesome progress. The photos are amazing and such great quality. Keep taking such great shots, it'll be such a huge help to someone who's doing a 6 speed swap.

[JTF]

Flat out IMPRESSIVE!

[Grainreaper]

Wow, you are really taking time to degrease everything! I need to do that when it's clutch time for my A6, too many years of seepage and leaks have taken their toll on the underpinnings

[jolio1994]

Last night I went ahead and removed the transmission from the 4.2, not the easiest thing to do... by yourself... with a bad back... But she's out!

Yes, I have it resting on some sketchy 2x4 that aren't even screwed together as well as a spare intercooler I had from the 2.7 Lmao

20190301_235033 by Joel Francisco

And... went ahead and replaced all the seals and the Bufkin Pipe in the oil cooler today. Installed it, well tried to... The oil lines bottomed out on the 2x4 I was using to support the engine and bam-o. Broke it right off. It's literally the bolt farthest away from the oil and coolant o-ring so I think it'll be fine without it. That said, I'm going to JB weld it back on and try again tomorrow. Thoughts?

20190302_182942 by Joel Francisco
20190302_183017 by Joel Francisco, on Flickr
20190302_190425 by Joel Francisco
20190302_190432 by Joel Francisco

[S/RConcepts]

It's seriously not my intention to sound like a Debbie-Downer, however if it was me, I would source a new housing instead of trying to JB weld it.

That oil cooler housing is quite an integral piece, and if the JB weld failed you would be looking at a few other problems- Engine being off-kilter, misaligned coolant/oil passages (would create a nasty mess!), and the alternator being misaligned. I do realize that there are other bolts to hold it steady, but given the engine vibration and torque stress factors (especially an RS6), I personally wouldn't be able to sleep at night with that in the back of my head. Plus, if it did end up failing after installation, it's a real pain to change out in-situ.

All this said, I've been watching this thread with great interest, and wish you success with whatever route you choose!

EDIT: If you know someone local who has the proper equipment to weld aluminum, that would be a very viable 3rd option.

[jolio1994]

Second opinions are what I'm looking for in this case. I have definitely been giving a lot of thought to having it welded. There is a local shop that specializes in B5 S4's near me (Actually where I took the downpipes to) and I think I will give him a call. I'm selling him my 2.7t as well as picking up my downpipes next week so then would be the time to have it welded. I looked up the P/N to the oil cooler housing an to my amazement there are some in-stock, but it's only on ECS Tuning's website... and it's $700 (Actually cheaper than I originally thought) Haha

New video should be up tomorrow, thanks for the support

[hoganalley]

Second opinions are what I'm looking for in this case. I have definitely been giving a lot of thought to having it welded. There is a local shop that specializes in B5 S4's near me (Actually where I took the downpipes to) and I think I will give him a call. I'm selling him my 2.7t as well as picking up my downpipes next week so then would be the time to have it welded. I looked up the P/N to the oil cooler housing an to my amazement there are some in-stock, but it's only on ECS Tuning's website... and it's $700 (Actually cheaper than I originally thought) Haha

New video should be up tomorrow, thanks for the support

What about a wrecker to find a compatible part? I'm not an expert on the 4.2, but if it's the same part that comes on a NA engine, then you should be able to find one somewhere in the US....

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[S/RConcepts]

I would also try to find a used one instead of paying $$$ for a new one. It's integral, but not $700 integral! The weird part is that it's actually only $560ish on the couple Audi parts places I've looked at... leave it to Audi to somehow be cheaper in this case lol.

I also did some light research on these housings, and Audi does list the 077115405K variant as being RS6 specific... I wonder if the external metal coolant pipe routes differently and goes into the housing in another location than the NA 4.2.

Jolio, if you want to post a couple pics of the overall external side of the housing, I can take a quick look at mine and compare.

[jolio1994]

The P/N is the same as the other 4.2's IIRC, the only think being different is the "K" at the end of it... so yay me there haha. I'm having my buddy weld it back on, he said no problem. I'll drop it off next week when I goto deliver my 2.7t to him as well as pick up the downpipes he modified for me.

S/RConcepts, here are the pictures you requested.. Lets just take a moment to appreciate how clean the engine block is for 88,500 miles on it!

20190303_141842 by Joel Francisco
20190303_141924 by Joel Francisco

[S/RConcepts]

That engine is indeed pretty clean!

The housing looks the same as the NA one to me, always nice to double-check, and hopefully someone benefits from this info in the future. I'm sure everyone here knows this, but the Audi parts numbering system can be really tricky when dealing with the letter suffixes... a 'J' instead of a 'K' can be a completely different part, not to mention the multiple part revisions VAG is famous for.

[jolio1994]

That engine is indeed pretty clean!

The housing looks the same as the NA one to me, always nice to double-check, and hopefully someone benefits from this info in the future. I'm sure everyone here knows this, but the Audi parts numbering system can be really tricky when dealing with the letter suffixes... a 'J' instead of a 'K' can be a completely different part, not to mention the multiple part revisions VAG is famous for.

Come to think about it, the "housing" itself is probably the same, only difference being the part where the oil filter screws onto, as that has the oil in and out lines.

Interesting, worst comes to worse I guess a used bracket from another 4.2 (and transfer over the oil filter section) would be the way to go.

[jolio1994]

Should make for a fun weekend!

2019-03-06_05-56-14 by Joel Francisco

[jolio1994]

Well, I'm at a loss here guys. I used a 12 point (yes, the correct size) and the flywheel bolts simply stripped. Whichever mechanic worked on this last really torqued the sh*t out of these things... I had some standard ez outs (5/8 and 11/16) but it seemed to be in between them. So I went to Home Depot, then Lowes, then Harbor Freight, and was finally able to pick up some Metric Ez Outs. The sockets walls are too thick to fit in between the 10 bolt pattern, yay me.

I've literally used a 3ft breaker bar with a 5ft cheater bar while using the crank lock pin to keep it from rotating and I know for a fact they crank lock pin is going to break before these come out...

So, what do I do? Like I said, I'm at a complete loss. Even tried drilling one of them out to try and fit a T50 bit in there and it stripped immediately. Don't want to heat them in fear of damaging the main rear seal... cutting the heads off with a grinder seem like the only viable option (Well, that and putting the autotrajic transmission back on) <- NO!

20190308_110009 by Joel Francisco

[Mad Cow]

A bit of heat won't hurt anything, hit the bolts with a bit of propane flame before loosening to melt or at least soften the threadlock. Those are held in with the red stuff so they'll be tough at room temp.

[chris86vw]

These are finicky since they aren't that deep, you need to use a good quality triple square, make sure it is seated all the way, and also a short as possible helps to make sure it stays in straight. Luckily this is on a flex plate and not recessed on a dual mass flywheel, so you have that going for you.

I would try to get them rotating with a hammer and a sharp chisel, an impact hammer with chisel bit can also work but you need to have some self control and not just blast the head off leaving you trying to extract the threaded part.

[bethridg]

Grab the angle grinder, some ear plugs and a pair of vise grips. I've done this on two BCY motors now. You'll laugh at how easy they are to remove once the tension is removed with the bolt head.


http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32...l=1#post275982

[jolio1994]

Bethridg, one step ahead of you, kinda... I tried getting some sleep this morning, but it was bothering me too much, so I grabbed the angle grinder, ear muffs, and glasses. Then I went to town haha. I was hiding behind the turbo because damn is it scary to have to take the guard off the grinder as well as use a cutting wheel that's 1/8" thick to grind away bolts...

After that I used the EZ out's I had and the studs came right out, with a little effort of course. No fun!

As for the project disassembly wise, I'm done! Now I can move onto the installation phase of everything! Very good feeling.

20190308_150329 by Joel Francisco

[JorisRS6]

Nice progress. Are you not replacing the rear main seal it sounds like?
The parts in post 31 are a dream for me haha.



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[rollerton]

Come to think about it, the "housing" itself is probably the same, only difference being the part where the oil filter screws onto, as that has the oil in and out lines.

Interesting, worst comes to worse I guess a used bracket from another 4.2 (and transfer over the oil filter section) would be the way to go.

I have a feeling you'll be able to salvage that oil cooler contraption; but if you can't I have a friend who just ended up with a low miles spare 4.2 (from an A8), he's probably parting it out, or selling whole.

Also-- this is coming together at an epic rate..you are NOT F*cking around, totally awesome! The usual 'build' starts with a thread outlining tons of plans and dreams and claims of buyign stuff and where the deals are and just it just stalls. You sir, have not let us down....awesome..

[Mad Cow]

I have a feeling you'll be able to salvage that oil cooler contraption; but if you can't I have a friend who just ended up with a low miles spare 4.2 (from an A8), he's probably parting it out, or selling whole.

Also-- this is coming together at an epic rate..you are NOT F*cking around, totally awesome! The usual 'build' starts with a thread outlining tons of plans and dreams and claims of buyign stuff and where the deals are and just it just stalls. You sir, have not let us down....awesome..

Isn't the oil filter position different on the A8 bracket? Shouldn't be difficult to find an A6 bracket on ebay or something worst case.

[hoganalley]

Also-- this is coming together at an epic rate..you are NOT F*cking around, totally awesome! The usual 'build' starts with a thread outlining tons of plans and dreams and claims of buyign stuff and where the deals are and just it just stalls. You sir, have not let us down....awesome..

I wonder if he has kids!!!

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