Fuel injector harness casing upgrade??

[EuroxS4]

Hey guys,

So since my car has a a ton of miles on it the fuel injector wiring harness has seen better days. I changed the coil pack harness with the oem vw repair kit last year and also installed the 2.0T coil pack harness plastic casing to help with the heat cycles of the wiring for the coil packs. Now the fuel injector harness is having the same issue where teh insulation is flaking off due to being heat cycled so many times. So the question is have any of you just replaced the pig tails for the injectors instead of splicing/over laying all the wires for injectors?? And has anyone used a fuel injector casing for the wiring maybe from a b6 S4 from one bank or the other?? I'll be looking into this shortly,just wondering if anyone has done it yet and what was used?

[Spike00513]

What if you make a complete new one with high quality parts?

One problem I foresee is the cost of heat wrap insulation, if you go that route.
There may be a high quality one with a list of authorized retailers who can order it in, but in 10 foot rolls each size. Instead of buying by the foot.
One option might be to find people to split it with, for making multiple harnesses.

Wouldn't high-temp heat shrink tubing and wrap be better than the plastic casing?

[EuroxS4]

What if you make a complete new one with high quality parts?

One problem I foresee is the cost of heat wrap insulation, if you go that route.
There may be a high quality one with a list of authorized retailers who can order it in, but in 10 foot rolls each size. Instead of buying by the foot.
One option might be to find people to split it with, for making multiple harnesses.

Wouldn't high-temp heat shrink tubing and wrap be better than the plastic casing?

Not planning on going on overkill to that extent.Looking more at some new wires ,possibly some wiring tape which I have. The good stuff (Tesa 51608 or 51026) and 4Z7971824C to use as a insulator from heat.

[Kevin C]

One Option:

ICO-FLEX™ XPF is flame retardant & light weight, self-fitting, monofilament sleevings designed to encapsulate and protect cable bundles and wire assemblies. These expandable sleevings adjust to irregular surfaces and contours, providing abrasion resistance and protection with a minimum of bulk and weight.

UL File Number: E142828
Operating Temp. Range: -94°F (-70°C) to 250°F (125°C)
Flammability: VW-1
Standard Colors: Black
Sold Per Foot

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...lesleeving.php

Another option:



https://www.wirecare.com/interest/sa...UaApnbEALw_wcB

[BumblebVR6]

I replaced mine with new connectors and terminated wires I bought from the dealer. You can find terminated injector connectors on eBay or amazon and do pretty much the same thing.


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[Spike00513]

One Option:



https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...lesleeving.php

Another option:



https://www.wirecare.com/interest/sa...UaApnbEALw_wcB

A store near me has 'Techflex Insultherm' by the foot. I wonder if that would be good enough. Once I made a reverse light wiring harness using it.

I say that because the following post (regarding coil harness) seems to claim that it's not good enough, compared to the HeatShield Products wrap that Turbavanttro used.
However, they look somewhat similar to me.

I think it'd be cheaper to buy Insultherm by the foot as needed, versus Heatshield Products, which seems to sell as 10ft rolls in each size.
Insultherm description:

High Heat Fiberglass Sleeving
Resin saturated flexible fiberglass sleeving. Protects wires, cables and hoses from heat up to 1,200° F. Cut and abrasion resistant. Withstands gasoline and engine chemicals. Cuts easily with scissors. Sold by the foot. When ordering, enter the number of feet you wish to order. Maximum continuous length is 50 feet. Color = black. Techflex Insultherm © automotive and industrial braided wire sleeving.



I haven't figured out a good high-temp heat shrink tubing to use for such things (to seal the joints to connectors, etc.); I think someone here used RayChem DR-25 on a 2.7T swap before.
Supposedly heat guns are better at activating shrink tubing than the open flame from a lighter. I never tried any torches for this purpose.

I used this 034 coilpack harness as well, and with all the heat that my top mounted EFR generates, I decided to be proactive with heat protection when I did the harness install. What I did was:
1) labeled and de-pinned the wires from the DT connector housing
2) de-pinned the wires from each coilpack connector housing and removed the rubber boots
3) installed Heat Shield Products hot rod sleeving (https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hot-rod-sleeve) of different diameters over each of the O34 wire runs
4) used high-temp heat shrink to seal transitions where multiple coilpack wire runs merge together into a larger bundle
5) reinstalled the rubber coilpack wire boots and installed high temp heat shrink where the wire runs meet the coilpack wire boots and at the DT connector housing
6) re-pinned the connectors
7) installed the harness

It basically looks the same as when I started, except with black Heat Shield Products sleeving over the entire harness. The DT connector still looks perfect after over 2 years of use. Other than the rubber coil pack boots, the DT connector is the only part of the harness that isn't covered with black heat shield sleeving. The sleeving is rates for 1,000 F continuous and 2,000 F intermittent. Visually it still looks like the day I installed it and no misfires or ignition issues.

I did this because the wire sleeving that 034 uses to cover the harness wires is somewhat open loop and does not appear to be the kind of sleeve intended to efficiently reflect heat.

Finished product:
[IMG]IMG_7867 by Bryan Sladky, on Flickr[/IMG]

[Spike00513]

How can 1,000 degree wire loom be considered inadequate, necessitating 2000 degree loom

if the Audi R8 comes stock with a mere plastic cover for it's coil harness

[jpulll]

I used the black conduit like the one above. A little digging in ECS tuning and you’ll find it, I believe it was from the B7 A4. Not too flashy like the red conduit and it protects the wires as intended.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ch/4z7971824c/

I actually just have bare wires wrapped with electrical tape running through it. There isn’t a lot of heat on that side of the engine bay so I am not too worried.

What I like about the black vs red, is the red bolts to the head and puts that conduit very close to that heat source. With the black is actually raises those wires up a good inch or so.

Now with the coil pack wires, I have the foldable heat shield that clips in place. I got the idea from Itsmatt33. Works flawlessly.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...eld/8l9121659/

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[EuroxS4]

I used the black conduit like the one above. A little digging in ECS tuning and you’ll find it, I believe it was from the B7 A4. Not too flashy like the red conduit and it protects the wires as intended.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ch/4z7971824c/

I actually just have bare wires wrapped with electrical tape running through it. There isn’t a lot of heat on that side of the engine bay so I am not too worried.

What I like about the black vs red, is the red bolts to the head and puts that conduit very close to that heat source. With the black is actually raises those wires up a good inch or so.

Now with the coil pack wires, I have the foldable heat shield that clips in place. I got the idea from Itsmatt33. Works flawlessly.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...eld/8l9121659/

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First conduit you listed is for fuel injectors. But it is also the same one I purchased for my fuel injector harness repair. It will need to be modified to work, but i rather have that than nothing. Also side note plastic casing acts as a insulator. How well it works who knows. But im sure it will last the test of time.

[Spike00513]

I used the black conduit like the one above. A little digging in ECS tuning and you’ll find it, I believe it was from the B7 A4. Not too flashy like the red conduit and it protects the wires as intended.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ch/4z7971824c/

I actually just have bare wires wrapped with electrical tape running through it. There isn’t a lot of heat on that side of the engine bay so I am not too worried.

What I like about the black vs red, is the red bolts to the head and puts that conduit very close to that heat source. With the black is actually raises those wires up a good inch or so.

Now with the coil pack wires, I have the foldable heat shield that clips in place. I got the idea from Itsmatt33. Works flawlessly.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...eld/8l9121659/

Sent from my iPhone

Does the 1" raise interfere with the stock engine cover?
IDK if a heat factor is stock turbo vs. upgraded, if the turbo is bigger and placed higher up, and if that puts more heat in the area

First conduit you listed is for fuel injectors. But it is also the same one I purchased for my fuel injector harness repair. It will need to be modified to work, but i rather have that than nothing. Also side note plastic casing acts as a insulator. How well it works who knows. But im sure it will last the test of time.

There might be an air gap in the conduit. I recall on my 3.0, the coil harness (comes stock with red conduit) still had a few small pieces of tape wrap along the harness wires, holding it tight inside of the conduit. And probably also to seat it within the alignment posts inside it.

[shoemaker617]

i just pick this up 20$ bucks cant go wrong

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[Spike00513]

tough choice between that and the $35 one

[Seerlah]

I run ev14 injectors and butt connected ev14 injector plugs, then wrapped them in cloth tape. Helped clean up the engine bay, and I run the harness section under the IM. Also run the 034MS ignition coil repair kit and relocated that harness to the cold side of the engine bay. Ignition coils are clocked really funky, but can't be seen under the coil cover.

[Spike00513]

FYI, if anyone wants a source on high heat sleeving, I might be able to buy it for you and mail it. It may be affordable, at about $1-4/foot, for a small harness like the ignition coil wires.
However, you would still have the challenge of needing to figure out which heat-shrink tubing to get, for sealing connector joints. (the ECS one seemed to also have epoxy inside)

as well as having to learn how to work the connector pins. Crimp tool and all that type of stuff.
Because in order to slide good-fitting heat sleeving over a harness, it probably has to be taken apart down to the wires.
For example, if the wires are 1/4" and the connector is 1", the connector would be in the way of sliding the heat sleeve on. It won't stretch over. It'd have to be de-pinned. With the wires probably labeled with masking tape to know what goes where, and a corresponding map drawn on paper.

THAT seems to be the hard part. Figuring out what crimp tool to use; ie some type of closed barrel 4-indent, or open barrel, etc.




I'm curious to know how to do the same basically, on other parts of the car. Such as shortening super-long O2 sensor harnesses, fuel injector wires, etc.

So far I only cut the wrap off my ECS harness, and it was kinda difficult. I might've nicked a wire or two with my scissors, so I plan to go over them closely by eye, and try covering any marks with liquid electrical tape (grey color instead of black, for easier visual inspection for cracks)

[EuroxS4]

I started modifying the black conduit I purchased yesterday as well as the replacement stock pig tails to make them work with that conduit. It looks like its gonna be nice and neat.But I will have to figure out how to attach the EV1 connector permanently to the conduit. Im thinking some black epoxy or some plastic bonding adhesive.






They were crudely modified but they will be smoothed then I will bond ev1 connectors to the lower half.

[PSI NRG]

Following! My injector harness has seen better days and would highly consider something that you could "plug and play" obviously you'll have to do some cutting and re-pinning like most have to do with the coil harness but something along those lines for the injector harness would be totally worth it!

[AvantNoir]

I made this for my car:

[EuroxS4]

Looks good. I am looking for a neat-er look hence why I decided on the black conduit route. Easy way to hide the wires inside the conduit and so on.I haven't decided yet wether I will put in a connector at the end of the harness to make it removable. I will look into it though so see if there's anything that will make it nice and neat if so ill consider doing it.

[jpulll]

Looks good. I am looking for a neat-er look hence why I decided on the black conduit route. Easy way to hide the wires inside the conduit and so on.I haven't decided yet wether I will put in a connector at the end of the harness to make it removable. I will look into it though so see if there's anything that will make it nice and neat if so ill consider doing it.

That’s a really good idea. Like the coil pack harness 034 Motorsport sells.


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[EuroxS4]

Yes I have the black conduit on the coil pack harness. However I purchased the VW repair kit and modified it as needed. Its nice the neat.

[Gosser]

Looking forward to seeing how the fuel injector black conduit works out. I blew a fuse from leading on my motor with my hand by accident, realizing that some wires are exposed. I just ordered some injector connectors with a whip from rockauto and that conduit from ECS. We'll see how well it all comes together.

[Spike00513]

just ordered this $9 eBay Chinese tool to try on terminal pins

I still need to figure out how to measure wire gauge, and a good source on it.
Same goes for terminal pin ends.
If I can start from scratch making my own wires, it could allow better installation of heat shield tubing, for a tighter neater look.
Because modifying an existing harness that already has terminals crimped onto the wire ends might make that harder. They take up more space and it'd he harder to slide over the right size tubing.





I hope it can apply to fuel injector wiring.
It appears Motoza offers many different parts for EV14's, such as plastic adapters, wire harness versions, and the connector itself.
I'm not sure how tight-fitting or heat resistant the tubing is on the harness ones.





This is not the cheapest or highest quantity ad I've seen for terminals.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Female-Wire...-/232985917444

They may be more different ads, and I think I've even seen some listed here or on VWvortex. Maybe the person bought a bulk amount for himself and was getting rid of any extra that came with it that he didn't need, IDK.

When searching eBay for RayChem DR-25 and ordering results starting with Lowest Price, it appears there's some as cheap as $2 for 1 foot of tubing. So I might gather an assortment.
I hear it's a good heat-resistant shrink tube; otherwise I've only found regular 3M so far locally.
Another reason to be concerned about re-working a pinned harness, or starting with fresh wire. Hopefully shrink tubing can slide over a pinned harness and not be loose, because it still only probably has a 2:1 shrink ratio.

[EuroxS4]

I have ev14 adapters as im planning on running id1000's once the other engine is in the car. However mine are all plastic no wires.

[Spike00513]

I have ev14 adapters as im planning on running id1000's once the other engine is in the car. However mine are all plastic no wires.

I heard with the plastic ones that it prevents stock engine cover fitment.
However, people seem to have different preferences on engine cover choice, and many options exist. Such as the 034 flat and curved covers.
Though IDK how tedious those allen screws are to remove if coil access is needed. Maybe it's not a big deal.
vs. the stock engine cover is just 3 plastic philips quick screws.

I ordered some EV14 adapters but the long harness ones, to try them out. But the sheath tube on it doesn't fully cover the wires, and IDK what kind it is. Maybe a light-duty sheath.
so IDK if I will try to beef it up later, or make a custom one.
Because they vary.

For example, an open wrap-around sheath might be rated at low temperature, and useful to hide home electronics wires such as something behind a TV.
versus a motorsports harness.



My front bumper harness seems pretty dry but it still works so I'll leave it alone for now.

[EuroxS4]

I agree with the video,but I think its a bit overkill to do on a street car. Race car sure. Street car I dont think theres a need to redo it all.

[Spike00513]

I agree with the video,but I think its a bit overkill to do on a street car. Race car sure. Street car I dont think theres a need to redo it all.

I feel you. It'd be easier to just wrap it in Tesa 51608.