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Thread: No crank 1.8T

  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
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    No crank 1.8T

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    Hi guys,

    My 2003 A4 1.8T was parked outside in winter time for about 5 weeks during my holiday abroad. Upon my return, I put the battery (fully charged) in the car and it started right up, drove the car for a full day with multiple startups, behaved normally.

    Now a day later, out of the blue, in rather cold weather, the dash lights up with ignition, but no crank. I tried many times, no luck.

    I pulled only code 18010, Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low (P1602 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent), which is probably due to the battery having been unplugged during my absence.

    Searching online returns somewhat similar problems, but most happen intermitently before failing completely. Mine failed at once.

    If one of the relays (ignition, starter) or sensors (crank position, clutch pedal) failed, would Vagcom tell me? Like I said, only error code I'm getting is 18010.

    I can use some help! Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    You said you put a fully charged battery in. So, not brand new. Did you try to jump the car? Perhaps your charged battery has a bad cell and didn't hold the charge.

  3. #3
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by icutrauma1 View Post
    You said you put a fully charged battery in. So, not brand new. Did you try to jump the car? Perhaps your charged battery has a bad cell and didn't hold the charge.
    Yes that's one of the first things I tried, with my neighbor's old Civic, no luck. I'm not getting a "tic" or anything. As if I was turning the key without pressing the clutch pedal (surely that sensor could be a possibility, but wouldn't I get some sort of code?).

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings MacFady's Avatar
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    I'm going to say if the battery is good and connections are solid, and it is a random no crank, it is the starter. Get a flashlight and a flat head screw driver, look under the car at the starter from the front and see if the braided copper wire running between the starter and solenoid is continuous or if you can push the screw driver right through. I've seen quite a few threads with car running fine one day, the next random no crank, always was the starter (including myself).

    Note, if you're like myself you more than likely wont hear the fuel pump prime or have fuel pressure at the rail either so don't get sidetracked, it cost me a lot of time, remember it's a no crank not a no start. If you have a manual just try jump starting it and see how it runs once it's going. You can also using a wire to jump the park neutral safety relay I'm pretty sure if that is something you want to rule out but I still say starter. If you have a voltmeter and/or test light there are good tutorials out there on how to test the connections at the start/battery if that's also something you want to try.

    I'll stick these here, you might not have all relays shown in the ECU box FYI.
    Wiring
    Fuse/relays
    Last edited by MacFady; 02-11-2019 at 11:32 AM.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    My guess is wiring between positive battery post and starter, probably a bad connection. Maybe try and re-seat the positive battery connection and try again.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  6. #6
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    My guess is wiring between positive battery post and starter, probably a bad connection. Maybe try and re-seat the positive battery connection and try again.
    Interesting. Will do right now, I did so but only on negative post.

    Just did re-seat both connectors and tightened, no luck... search continues.
    Last edited by B6fan; 02-11-2019 at 12:33 PM.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by B6fan View Post
    Yes that's one of the first things I tried, with my neighbor's old Civic, no luck. I'm not getting a "tic" or anything. As if I was turning the key without pressing the clutch pedal (surely that sensor could be a possibility, but wouldn't I get some sort of code?).
    No. The clutch safety start switch does not connect to any computers - ECU or otherwise. So it cannot set any codes. It is simply an electrical part of the starter circuit.

    Luckily for you, the starter circuit is basically the simplest circuit in the entire car. Even simpler than the horn circuit. Zero fuses, zero computers. Compared to newer cars with push-button start nonsense, that's a really, *really* great thing.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
    2001 Laser Red A4 1.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4.11 Final Drive, APR 93, R8 coil packs, Labree HFC & DP, 2.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear, 18" RS4 Reps
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings MMMB00ST_A4's Avatar
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    My thread a few threads up should have all the info you need:

    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-walky_talky20!
    -Brandon

    APR | Oettinger | KW | iForged | Evolution Racewerks | Labree | Carbinio

    12.9@104mph

  9. #9
    Active Member Two Rings
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    After much investigation, pretty much the last option... it was a relay under the ECU, I think it is activated by the clutch pedal sensor? Anyway, lower part was rusted out, though we didn't find any water in there and other relays were fine. Replaced the bad one and now happily back on the road! Thanks to all for input!

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings MMMB00ST_A4's Avatar
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    Good to hear. That relay is your "starter" relay, so that would explain your ordeal precisely. Glad you're back on the road.
    -Brandon

    APR | Oettinger | KW | iForged | Evolution Racewerks | Labree | Carbinio

    12.9@104mph

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    How does one test this relay? Oddly enough, I got my car back from the shop yesterday after doing a motor swap for me and now the starter doesn't engage... I don't think I'm hearing the click from the relay when I go to start it so I'm hoping it's just the relay.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  12. #12
    Registered Member One Ring
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    Uhh, that happened to me, the connections on the battery positive weíre messed up. I checked the connections, they seemed good, so I changed the starter. That wasnít the problem. Really check your connections to make sure they are good. That, or try hitting the starter with a metal object while someone tries starting it. Just be careful that you donít get hurt while doing this.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    How does one test this relay? Oddly enough, I got my car back from the shop yesterday after doing a motor swap for me and now the starter doesn't engage... I don't think I'm hearing the click from the relay when I go to start it so I'm hoping it's just the relay.
    Anyone? Getting ready to swap the starter. Iíd hate to find out thatís not the issue.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  14. #14
    Senior Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
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    Have you tried checking your cranking voltage with a voltmeter? If its good, test the voltage at the starter. Check cranking voltage and verify you get switched power to the small terminal. A remote starter switch and a voltmeter will make testing pretty easy.
    03 A4 Quattro, 1.8T, 02X six speed conversion/ GJW (4.11 final drive). RS4 RSB, H&R FSB.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    I have a multimeter but my knowledge on using one is very limited. I'm not sure how to check any of that. Can you possibly dumb it down for me? Sorry...

    I just wire wheeled all of the ground connections to eliminate that as a problem.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    How does one test this relay? Oddly enough, I got my car back from the shop yesterday after doing a motor swap for me and now the starter doesn't engage... I don't think I'm hearing the click from the relay when I go to start it so I'm hoping it's just the relay.
    If you are referring to the clutch interlock relay just jumper it out and see if the starter will crank.

    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    Replaced the starter. All good.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  18. #18
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    Replaced the starter. All good.
    Pretty simple? Any pro tips from the procedure? May be doing this soon as well.
    2005 1.8T Quattro
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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    It was pretty simple. I read a lot of different threads about people removing different things to make the job easier. This is how I did it:
    Disconnect battery
    Remove two main bolts holding starter in - Top bolt is in an awkward place but easy to remove(16mm I think)
    Remove 6mm allen bolt(#3 in photo) holding starter bracket in place and loosen the nuts on starter - remove bracket
    Lower the starter down and remove nut(#2 in picture)(13 or 15mm can't remember - memory of a goldfish) holding the cables and disconnect cables
    Install new starter



    Here's the Audi manual for reference: Click

    I would recommend sanding or wire wheeling down all of the connections, positive and ground. I did all of the grounds and also the terminals that connect directly to the starter. the car starts like a champ with all of the grounds and positive cables with freshly wire wheeled ends.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual



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