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  1. #1
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    Water pump damage after running coolant dry

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    So I hit some ice / dirt going off the road a bit in bad conditions. It looks like the bottom of my radiator was already very corroded and about to die, and the impact knocked a big ol' hole in the bottom on both sides, as well as messing up the ac condenser pretty bad. I limped the car home about 5 minutes, and coolant definitely fully drained in that time. The engine did not overheat, I was watching oil temp, and fortunately it was 15 degrees out which definitely helped. Like I said it was only a couple minutes, and I stopped once to cool down to be safe, so I don't think there is damage from that. What about the water pump though? Is it likely I killed that by letting it run dry?

    I also bent the bottom air intake tube thing of the bumper on the driver side, and put a decent dent in it. It's also putting quite a kink in the rubber hose that goes to the intercooler because of this. Should I be worried about this as well? Doesn't look like there's much to do here other than replace the whole front end of the car...

  2. #2
    Established Member Three Rings Blazius's Avatar
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    WP is fine
    2000 B5 A4 Avant FWD Manual - S Line - Sport package

    N/A ARG bottom end, AEB Head & other stuff | t3/t4 turbo conversion IN Progress - https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...rbo-Conversion

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blazius View Post
    WP is fine
    Hope so, looked like a pain in the butt when I did the timing belt a few weeks ago. I even have the pump, but decided not to put it in because I was short on time and the old one seemed fine. Some of the plastic of the bumper assembly (is that what it's called? I'm talking the whole front subframe that the radiator mounts too, not just the bumper cover) broke, so the new radiator won't be fully secure like it's supposed to be. I'm, thinking it will be fine, and I have a parts car on the way so hopefully I can replace this whole piece eventually, but I need to get the car back on the road.

  4. #4
    Established Member Three Rings Blazius's Avatar
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    I once drove like 10 km without water overheated engine too in the end but the waterpump was fine when I took the engine apart, but I still replaced it when you do the belt. Yes you can replace the whole frontend, its basically made from plastic.
    2000 B5 A4 Avant FWD Manual - S Line - Sport package

    N/A ARG bottom end, AEB Head & other stuff | t3/t4 turbo conversion IN Progress - https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...rbo-Conversion

  5. #5
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    Alright, so I got a new radiator installed, flushed they system, and refilled with 50/50 distilled water and G13. My engine is now not fully getting up to temp. At idle, it will get nearly there (around 170 F), driving it won't break 160. I held the coolant bottle as high as it would go until I didn't see bubbles coming in, both with the cap off and on, as well as pulled the heater hose until I got a good stream of coolant from the bleed hole. What gives? Did I just not bleed it enough, or could I have damaged the Tstat from the loss of coolant? It certainly is acting like the Tstat is stuck open. Radiator hoses both get pretty hot ,so it seems like coolant is definitely flowing.

  6. #6
    Established Member Three Rings Blazius's Avatar
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    Ahhhhhh , you should do the Tstat. After I did my waterpump and belt my tstat broke, and I was hesistant to replace it because it had like 1000 km on it. Replace it , and you have to flush at heater core again.
    2000 B5 A4 Avant FWD Manual - S Line - Sport package

    N/A ARG bottom end, AEB Head & other stuff | t3/t4 turbo conversion IN Progress - https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...rbo-Conversion

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blazius View Post
    Ahhhhhh , you should do the Tstat. After I did my waterpump and belt my tstat broke, and I was hesistant to replace it because it had like 1000 km on it. Replace it , and you have to flush at heater core again.
    This is what I feared... I suppose I should just do the water pump while I'm in there. Guess that was a waste of $30 on G13 . German engineering makes me angry sometimes...

    Is there any real engine harm to running at these temps for the time being? I don't have a garage, and the weather is down right terrible here right now. Doing the radiator is bad enough, I'd prefer not dig into the whole water pump in a snow covered parking lot..

  8. #8
    Established Member Three Rings Blazius's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrashKrazz View Post
    This is what I feared... I suppose I should just do the water pump while I'm in there. Guess that was a waste of $30 on G13 . German engineering makes me angry sometimes...

    Is there any real engine harm to running at these temps for the time being? I don't have a garage, and the weather is down right terrible here right now. Doing the radiator is bad enough, I'd prefer not dig into the whole water pump in a snow covered parking lot..
    Nope, apart from higher fuel consumption. Also catch the g13 in a clean bucket and you can reuse it , just make sure you use a hose on the radiator flush thingie.
    2000 B5 A4 Avant FWD Manual - S Line - Sport package

    N/A ARG bottom end, AEB Head & other stuff | t3/t4 turbo conversion IN Progress - https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...rbo-Conversion

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blazius View Post
    Nope, apart from higher fuel consumption. Also catch the g13 in a clean bucket and you can reuse it , just make sure you use a hose on the radiator flush thingie.
    Do I really need to flush the heater core? My heat has been nice and hot. I flushed it with a run of distilled water before I filled it this time and nothing gross looking came out.

  10. #10
    Established Member Three Rings Blazius's Avatar
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    No, heater core is the highest point in b5, if you replace thermo you will need to bleed the heater core not flush it :) I am just saying catch the g13 in a clean bucket when you are letting coolant out from the radiator flush. Or you can also flush from waterpump , there is a 18mm screw , unscrew that after you emptied the system thru the rad to get the rest out and so it doesnt go on your face when you take off the thermostat hose.
    2000 B5 A4 Avant FWD Manual - S Line - Sport package

    N/A ARG bottom end, AEB Head & other stuff | t3/t4 turbo conversion IN Progress - https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...rbo-Conversion

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blazius View Post
    No, heater core is the highest point in b5, if you replace thermo you will need to bleed the heater core not flush it :) I am just saying catch the g13 in a clean bucket when you are letting coolant out from the radiator flush. Or you can also flush from waterpump , there is a 18mm screw , unscrew that after you emptied the system thru the rad to get the rest out and so it doesnt go on your face when you take off the thermostat hose.
    Gotcha, I was confused by wording, thought you were suggesting flush the system on a hose before refilling. I'll probably leave it alone until I get a nice enough day to tackle it then. She seems to be running well now. Radiator stays in place fine despite the plastic around the mounting point on one side being very cracked. More concerning is the air pipe being bent, it is definitely restricting flow, so I need to find a way to straighten it or replace it or something..

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    You can swap the entire front clip. One simple complete swap if done right, and probably best way to go about it if you have a parts car on the way. Remove the t25 torx on the body frame by the headlights, t45 bumper shock bolts, upper and lower radiator hoses from radiator, rubber intercooler hoses, move ac condenser to the side, undo electrical connections and front clip can come off as one piece.

    I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like a bitch

  13. #13
    Established Member Three Rings Blazius's Avatar
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    I thought you already replaced the frontend from the parts car ? You should do what Seerlah said. Its big a plastic thing basically.
    2000 B5 A4 Avant FWD Manual - S Line - Sport package

    N/A ARG bottom end, AEB Head & other stuff | t3/t4 turbo conversion IN Progress - https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...rbo-Conversion

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seerlah View Post
    You can swap the entire front clip. One simple complete swap if done right, and probably best way to go about it if you have a parts car on the way. Remove the t25 torx on the body frame by the headlights, t45 bumper shock bolts, upper and lower radiator hoses from radiator, rubber intercooler hoses, move ac condenser to the side, undo electrical connections and front clip can come off as one piece.
    That's what I figured. I pretty much had it off when I did the timing belt. Unfortunately I believe the parts car was hit in the front end, so it may not be good either. Both the parts car and my current running one came to me through someone else, so my information on it is a little scattered. I'll have to see what it looks like. What about the metal air pipe that runs across the front? That is the main concerning thing that is damaged, is that part of the front clip assembly? I didn't get a good look at it, but it seemed attached. I was confused because that is clearly metal where the rest of the front seemed to be plastic. We got a lot of snow recently, so I was basically uncovering the parts of the car I had to actually see haha. If I don't have a good one from the parts car, what the hell is that piece actually called so I can track one down?

    I have to say, it's a little bit of a pain getting the whole front off, but once you do it sure is nice having access to the whole front of the motor. I imagine it makes pulling the motor not too awful of a job.This design is kinda growing on me coming from working on a lot of cars where it's much harder to get at the front. The parts car does have a good low mileage (under 80k!) motor and full drivetrain, so it will certainly be nice to have those parts. The running car had a bad trans when I got it (why it was taken off the road), but we ended up getting a great low mileage trans with it that went in, so it's really a solid car for a 2000 with 266k on it. Coming from my Chevy tahoe with 360k, and my 94 Ford E350 short bus with almost 300k, This thing is low mileage to me.. Certainly a lot to learn, as it's the first non-American car I've owned, lots of things I'm used to are just different (wheel BOLTS, come on Germany).

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Seerlah's Avatar
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    Not sure what to call the intercooler (charge) pipe. Also not sure how it detaches. Never had to deal with it or even looked. I don't use mine anymore (fmic), and never thought once to remove it.

    But in the picture above, it is still attached to the front clip. That is what it is sitting on and basically why the front clip can sit straight up like that on the ground.
    I hate it when my car acts like a little bitch, treating me like a bitch



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