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  1. #1
    Senior Member Three Rings Gunnarrrrr's Avatar
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    NPC bugman gadgets
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    Tons of brake/abs problems after S4 caliper replacement/upgrade

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    Swapped the front calipers only, rebuilt+new seals, and I've now bled 3 liters of fluid @15-20psi. I thought I got all the air out. Honestly starting to consider just swapping my engine to the S4 with all the chassis problems I've been having.

    here's a list of issues:

    1. the brake pedal feels awful, very soft, have to push it to the floor to make the thing stop. bled another half liter through and didn't help at all.

    2. the brake light comes on + beeps 3x after a couple minutes of driving usually

    3. I tried bleeding the abs using the output test in vcds, since doing that I can't get the damn abs light to go off or make this code go away no matter how many times I clear it:

    01486 - system function test activated
    35-00 - -

    edit for any concern-trolls: I barely drove this thing down my private street, no I don't plan on taking this more than a couple hundred feet from my house until my chassis issues are 100% sorted.
    "with great autism comes great responsibility" - Winston Churchill, 1906

    PM ME if you have any of the following parts for sale
    Flat Bottom Steering Wheel from an 8K S4/S5 or C7/7.5 S6/RS6/S7/RS7 with hook-style airbag connections
    8V A3/S3 Steering Wheel Airbag - single stage
    B7 RS4 Recaros

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings gmudan's Avatar
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    May 03 2009
    AZ Member #
    41995
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    A4%20B6/B8
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    Windsor, ON

    This might help with the abs light
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-with-VAG-COM-!!

  3. #3
    Senior Member Three Rings Gunnarrrrr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmudan View Post
    This might help with the abs light
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-with-VAG-COM-!!
    Ahh thank you! that explains my lateral acceleration sensor that was there too. Looks like I then switched the abs functional test mode back on. Guess I need to drive it to the nearest parking lot.

    Might actually explain the brake light beeping as well.

    Now to just sort out the pedal feel.
    "with great autism comes great responsibility" - Winston Churchill, 1906

    PM ME if you have any of the following parts for sale
    Flat Bottom Steering Wheel from an 8K S4/S5 or C7/7.5 S6/RS6/S7/RS7 with hook-style airbag connections
    8V A3/S3 Steering Wheel Airbag - single stage
    B7 RS4 Recaros

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings Ol Dirty Noodle's Avatar
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    Raccoons and Feces
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    Nassau/LI/NY(the poor part)

    Quote Originally Posted by Gunnarrrrr View Post
    Ahh thank you! that explains my lateral acceleration sensor that was there too. Looks like I then switched the abs functional test mode back on. Guess I need to drive it to the nearest parking lot.

    Might actually explain the brake light beeping as well.

    Now to just sort out the pedal feel.
    Aren稚 you supposed to recode the brake booster for the proper calipers in VCDS too?

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings Let it snow's Avatar
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    Aug 24 2014
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    02 1.8TQ Sport 5 speed, 05 1.8TQ 6 speed
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    Vermont

    Did you bleed all 4 brakes?

  6. #6
    Senior Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
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    1987 Dodge Raider G54B Turbo
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    Portland OR, United States

    Quote Originally Posted by Let it snow View Post
    Did you bleed all 4 brakes?
    Very good point! The brakes hydraulics are setup in an X pattern. Front right and left rear is one set and the other is front left and right rear. If you swap the calipers out on the front you have to bleed the backs.
    03 A4 Quattro, 1.8T, 02X six speed conversion/ GJW (4.11 final drive). RS4 RSB, H&R FSB.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    In my experience, it can take up to 4L to fully bleed a system of air was introduced to it. However, I may be wrong. Maybe I'm an idiot who did it wrong. Seriously. I've heard from other sources that a bleed should take less fluid, anywhere from 1-2L.

    And I hear it can take up to 30psi, with the risk being rupturing of the fluid reservoir.

    I noticed on my Motive Power Bleeder, that there's a special way to use it. I shape the hose like a triangle, hanging it from the hood using a bunjee cord. That way, air can naturally rise out of the resevoir, and the brake fluid can pour into the reservoir. Because with it high up like that, it's stacked with weight (from gravity) similar to a column of air above your head, which makes air pressure on Earth. It works the same way, having even just that little bit of force to push the fluid down into the reservoir to keep it filled.
    On top of that, having the line flow straight out the top of the reservoir, means the highest point where the fluid ends is ABOVE the reservoir. Which is good, to keep it completely full.

    The only problem with that is at the end, when finishing up. I have to watch it drop carefully until it clears the hose, or wrap it with a wrag. Because imagine, if that line is full of fluid and you disconnect it from the reservoir top, it's gonna want to pour out.

    With an expensive electric power bleeder, this is probably not necessary. But with a cheap hand pump one, maybe what you give up in price, has to be made up for with ridiculous technique.

    I also don't know how fast the fluid can fill. An electric bleeder tool can probably pump fluid in at a steady rate. But with a manual bleeder, the pressure may drop as fluid gets pushed in, forcing you to pump it back up. I'm not sure how people do this; if they have a helper (not always easy to find), or run back and forth between the caliper and bleeder.
    I've noticed on some cars, they don't seem to care if the caliper bleed screw is cracked open many turns to create fast fluid flow.
    However, I've experienced on a B6, where cracking the bleeder too much might push out fluid faster than the Motive can enter it in the reservoir, and suck air in somehow. Or run the reservoir dry/low before the fluid can level out inside it.
    IF this is true, I figured it out because I had the same problem and had to fix it to get the car operational.
    But the more careful you are, the slower the job is, and nobody likes spending extra hours wrenching.

    It's in the technique, Spongebob.



    Also, doesn't VCDS have some ABS bleed procedure? And could a few ABS stops trigger it? I don't know if that would help.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ol Dirty Noodle View Post
    Aren稚 you supposed to recode the brake booster for the proper calipers in VCDS too?
    I heard this is true. I forget if I recoded mine to B7 321mm, but I think there's options. Such as S4 345mm.
    Though IDK how necessary it is, and I think some people have retrofitted bigger brakes but held off on doing the coding for a while, until eventually doing it.

    ____

    I hope everything was done right, such as the brake calipers being installed with the bleeder screw on top, and not bottom. Because air rises upward.
    Also, just an FYI, I hear OEM manufacturer seals are better quality than cheap aftermarket. ie Ate, TRW, etc. vs. Centric
    I used a certain grease/lube on mine last time I put new seals but I'm not sure if it matters; I know some people use brake fluid.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
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    Mar 28 2015
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    1987 Dodge Raider G54B Turbo
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    Portland OR, United States

    I have a Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder. During a flush I accidentally let the reservoir go dry. I was able to get a good pedal again with less than 1/2 liter of fluid. One trick that helps is to cycle the brake pedal a couple of times as your bleeding each wheel. I can't imagine having to go through 4 liters of fluid.
    03 A4 Quattro, 1.8T, 02X six speed conversion/ GJW (4.11 final drive). RS4 RSB, H&R FSB.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Three Rings Gunnarrrrr's Avatar
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    Yeah I知 running a motive power bleeder too, I値l try that technique. Ate seals, which I figured are fine since ate manufactures the calipers lol. Bled about 3 liters through all 4 corners now, it feels ok, probably just going to bleed another liter, then do the old fashioned pedal pump trick to finish it off. The car stops fine, I just feel like I知 pushing the pedal down way further than I should be :/

    Also I got the abs function test completed. No more lights. I値l save the recoding for S4 calipers for another day


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    "with great autism comes great responsibility" - Winston Churchill, 1906

    PM ME if you have any of the following parts for sale
    Flat Bottom Steering Wheel from an 8K S4/S5 or C7/7.5 S6/RS6/S7/RS7 with hook-style airbag connections
    8V A3/S3 Steering Wheel Airbag - single stage
    B7 RS4 Recaros

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin C View Post
    I have a Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder. During a flush I accidentally let the reservoir go dry. I was able to get a good pedal again with less than 1/2 liter of fluid. One trick that helps is to cycle the brake pedal a couple of times as your bleeding each wheel. I can't imagine having to go through 4 liters of fluid.
    Cycle the pedal as in what you do with the traditional 2 person method? Or just simply pump the pedal with the bleeders closed?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gunnarrrrr View Post
    Yeah I知 running a motive power bleeder too, I値l try that technique. Ate seals, which I figured are fine since ate manufactures the calipers lol. Bled about 3 liters through all 4 corners now, it feels ok, probably just going to bleed another liter, then do the old fashioned pedal pump trick to finish it off. The car stops fine, I just feel like I知 pushing the pedal down way further than I should be :/

    Also I got the abs function test completed. No more lights. I値l save the recoding for S4 calipers for another day


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Also have the motive bleeder, I have had the same issue. Seems to not get all the air out, normally need to do the 2 person method to get the last bit of bubbles out. I'll have to try Kevin's suggestion, what I've done in the past is tap the calipers with a rubber mallet or similar while bleeding. Sometimes it'll dislodge stubborn bubbles.

    Also keep in mind, your pedal travel will increase to some extent due to the larger pistons of the caliper (Pascal's Law). That's been contested before since the S4 supposedly has the same diameter bore in the master cylinder as an A4, but don't want to derail the thread...
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  11. #11
    Senior Member Three Rings Gunnarrrrr's Avatar
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    Also just got this code the other night:

    17887 - Brake Boost Vacuum System: Mechanical Failure
    P1479 - 008 Implausible Signal - Intermittent
    "with great autism comes great responsibility" - Winston Churchill, 1906

    PM ME if you have any of the following parts for sale
    Flat Bottom Steering Wheel from an 8K S4/S5 or C7/7.5 S6/RS6/S7/RS7 with hook-style airbag connections
    8V A3/S3 Steering Wheel Airbag - single stage
    B7 RS4 Recaros

  12. #12
    Active Member Two Rings
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    lake worth, florida

    I had the soft pedal issue just now. I swapped my calipers for s4 calipers and I stupidly put the left on the right and the right on the left. That will definitely keep you from getting all the air out of the brakes. went through about 3 liters also until I realized what I had done. I swapped sides and bleed it again and it was good to go.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Three Rings Gunnarrrrr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yoboyd06 View Post
    I had the soft pedal issue just now. I swapped my calipers for s4 calipers and I stupidly put the left on the right and the right on the left. That will definitely keep you from getting all the air out of the brakes. went through about 3 liters also until I realized what I had done. I swapped sides and bleed it again and it was good to go.
    I'll be completely honest I couldn't really tell the difference between the two and just kind of went for it
    "with great autism comes great responsibility" - Winston Churchill, 1906

    PM ME if you have any of the following parts for sale
    Flat Bottom Steering Wheel from an 8K S4/S5 or C7/7.5 S6/RS6/S7/RS7 with hook-style airbag connections
    8V A3/S3 Steering Wheel Airbag - single stage
    B7 RS4 Recaros

  14. #14
    Senior Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
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    1987 Dodge Raider G54B Turbo
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    Portland OR, United States

    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    Cycle the pedal as in what you do with the traditional 2 person method? Or just simply pump the pedal with the bleeders closed?

    With the bleeder running I press the pedal a couple of times.

    So far the best suggestion I have seen is that the bleeders might be pointing the downwards ( caliper swapped left to right).
    03 A4 Quattro, 1.8T, 02X six speed conversion/ GJW (4.11 final drive). RS4 RSB, H&R FSB.

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings Ol Dirty Noodle's Avatar
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    Raccoons and Feces
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin C View Post
    With the bleeder running I press the pedal a couple of times.

    So far the best suggestion I have seen is that the bleeders might be pointing the downwards ( caliper swapped left to right).
    That値l do it

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    FWIW, speed bleeders exist
    never tried them though




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